Tasted #595: Glendronach 50yo (TimeforWhisky 10 Year Anniversary Dram)

Today's 10th Anniversary Dram comes courtesy of Hendy, in the form of one incredible GlenDronach...

My first foray with GlenDronach was back in 2016, at an Oak Barrel GlenDronach tasting where I fell in love with the distillery and in particular with its 15yo. Notwithstanding the fact that GlenDronach is Scotland's second oldest legal whisky producer, the distillery is also well known for its range of sherry-matured whiskies as well as its tumultuous history.

Everything from its quality, to its rich profile and value, are what separates GlenDronach from other similar distillers. Those that come to learn more about GlenDronach will quickly discover the two significant periods; the GlenDronach prior to its closing in 1996 (until 2002) and the rebirthed GlenDronach which was acquired by Chivas Brothers in 2005, subsequently purchased by BenRiach Distillery Co in 2008.

You can also think about its whiskies in similar ways, with those GlenDronach whiskies that have been distilled prior to its closure in 1996 and its newer releases that may have been distilled in recent times, following its reopening in 2002.

This brings me to the GlenDronach 50yo, a truly special GlenDronach which I thought was also fitting for our special 10-year celebration tasting round-ups. 

The GlenDronach 50yo is the distillery's oldest and rarest whisky to date. Distilled in 1971, the malt has quietly aged away since in one PX and one Oloroso sherry cask. Both casks from the bodegas of Jerez in Andalucia, Spain. It was then blended for final maturation for around one year in a single new Spanish oak PX cask. With only 198 bottles available worldwide, Rachel Barrie, GlenDronach's Master Blender said:

“The GlenDronach Aged 50 Years is the most prestigious expression of what this timeless, richly-sherried Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky has to offer."

Bottle No. 1 of The GlenDronach 50yo is gone as it was proudly donated to the inaugural Distillers’ One of One Auction in December 2021, raising £40,000 in support of disadvantaged young people in Scotland.

I was provided with a small sample of the GlenDronach 50yo following its launch in Sydney. Here's what I thought...

The Glendronach 50yo (43.8% ABV, 50yo, Highlands, Scotland, A$39,500)
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Nose: Very alluring and fresh; with notes of dark fruits, plums, prunes, cherries, raisins and dark chocolate. There is a small hint of tobacco that is woven with the deep fruity and cocoa scent.

Palate: Luscious, viscous and with no oakiness. The palate carries the notes from the nose with stewed plums, mixed with cherries. There's a small hint of citrus but finely strung together by smooth fine Belgian chocolates. Truly delicious.

Finish: Not too long, it fades slowly though the remains of that fine cocoa slowly drift away.  

Rating: 95/100.

Thanks ever always to Stuart Reeves for providing us with the sample of the GlenDronach 50yo and also having us at the launch that featured Stewart Buchanan, the GlenDronach Global Malts Ambassador.

Cheers
Hendy.

Tasted #594: 1957 "Moon Import" Bowmore (TimeforWhisky 10 Year Anniversary Dram)

Our 4th 10th Anniversary Dram dram (and first, but not last from this distillery) is a 1957 Bowmore from Italian Independent Bottler Moon Import.

Many whisky fans will be familiar with Samaroli, and the legendary independently bottled whisky they released in the 1970s to 1990s, but there were other equally legendary Italian independent bottlers at the time - Sestante (later Silver Seal), Nadi Fiori's Intertrade, and Moon Import to name the most notable ones. Whilst the latter is probably most well-known for its "Birds" series, they produced several other bottles as well, including this 1957 Bowmore, bottled in 1990 at 32-33 years old.

My love of Bowmore is no secret (especially to anyone who follows our Instagram) and as much as I love the older, tropical style Bowmores, particularly those from the 1960s, they're not exactly easy or cheap whiskies to procure these days. In a WhiskyFun article on a legendary Bowmore tasting (which I wasn't at, but which included this exact bottle) Angus MacRaild said  "I would hazard that Bowmore from the 1950s and 1960s is still recognised as one of the greatest spirits ever produced by mankind." 

It's pretty hard to ague.

I was fortunate enough to try this bottle thanks to the significant generosity of @whisky_is_better_aged (a name that'll come up again during these 10th anniversary tastings) - once in 2019, and again more recently.

"Moon Import" Bowmore 1957 (40% ABV, 32-33yo, Islay, Scotland, £8,500+)

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Colour: Vibrant yellow gold.

Nose: Oh my goodness, this is tropical fruit heaven. Guava at first, then passionfruit. Some slight oat cake hints, then it's back to the fruit - pineapple, more passionfruit. There are some faint floral notes too. It's definitely got character, but there's a light delicateness to it as well (no doubt at least in part due to the 40% ABV).

Palate: More of the fruit from the nose - pineapple most predominantly, but there's guava, passionfruit (in spades) and mango to a slightly lesser extent. There's also a faintly BBQ-esque meaty note, and a slight salinity that reminds you of where this whisky originated. For me though, the fruit dominates, and whilst the whisky (bottled at 40%, now with 32 years of bottle ago) is undoubtedly full of flavour, you can't help but think it would have just that little more with some additional ABV, maybe.

Finish: Medium to long in length, with a residual sea-salt smoked passionfruit note.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100. Ticks a lot of the tropical fruit notes I love, and is technically a very respectable whisky. Whilst I hate to default to the old "this would be better at a higher ABV" chestnut...I would have loved to try this around 50% ABV.

See you here tomorrow for #5!

Cheers,

Martin.

Tasted #593: 1955 Talisker 50 Year Old (TimeforWhisky 10 Year Anniversary Dram)

Number 3 in our 10th Anniversary dram roundup comes from The Isle of Skye, distilled way back in 1955 and bottled in 2005 by Gordon & MacPhail at a whopping 50 years old. I tasted this a few years back at Whisky Now Hong Kong (which I hope returns in 2023).

Now technically, this is a "Secret Skye" whisky and isn't actually labelled as a Talisker, but in 1955 there was precisely one distillery on the Isle of Skye. So it's either a Talisker...or a Talisker.

Talisker has never released an OB 50yo (this year's 44yo "Forrests of the Deep" is the oldest OB to date), so it's fair to say a 50 year old is pretty special (and with an average rating on WhiskyBase of 93.05, it seems others agree). 

It's also a lot darker / more sherried than any OB Talisker I can recall, coming from a single sherry butt. Sound like fun? Let's jump in then...

Gordon & MacPhail "Secret Stills" Isle of Skye (Talisker) (45% ABV, 50yo, Isle of Skye, $68,990HKD)
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Colour: Deep rich mahogany.

Nose: Cloves, old books, aged leather and almonds (at first). Old dusty oak, with slightly saline hints, some raspberries and furniture polish / varnish. Then some grapefruit(!) notes appear, along with a long soft note of humidor.

Palate: Initially - berries. Raspberry, lingonberry, and even some lychee! There's a slight menthol note, and the oak is definitely there, but it's not overpowering (despite what the colour and 50 years in a first fill sherry butt might suggest)! Raisins and blackcurrants, toffee, licorice and black tea come next (the latter not overtly tannic), followed by dark almond chocolate, and some sweet, tobacco notes. Hugely complex, but also "clean".

Finish: Black tea, slight tannins.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100. A hugely complex whisky - lots going on, and it's all extremely tasty.

You know where to find us tomorrow for dram #4!

Cheers,

Martin.

Tasted #592: Yamazaki "Age Unknown" 30 Year Old (TimeforWhisky 10 Year Anniversary Dram)

Our second 10th Anniversary dram whisky comes from Japan…in the form of a 30 Year Old Yamazaki.

Hold up....Yamazaki? 30 Years Old? 

How often has someone told you they tried a 21 or 30yo Yamazaki, and you just know they meant Hibiki? I mean, apart from single casks, Yamazakis are usually always NAS, 10, 12, 18 or 25yo, right?

Generally, yes, but in 1989 a very limited Yamazaki "Age Unknown” was released, containing Yamazaki from the 1960s and bottled at 25 years old. 5 years later in 1994, a further 300 bottles were released with an extra 5 years maturation, making this 30 year old Yamazaki!

(You can tell these older 1994 bottles apart as they have the signature of “Keizo Saji” on the label - Suntory’s chairman).

WhiskyFun gave this a WF96 recently, a score very few whiskies achieve. With these kind of figures (300 bottles, released 28 years ago, WF96, WB94.67 etc..) I'd fully expected this to fall into the "whiskies Martin will never try" category...but then on a recent trip to Melbourne, the incredibly generous Deni Kay (@deni_kay) invited me around for an evening with he and his Old Master Spirits partner David (@whisky.nerd), where David kindly shared this. I wasn't about to say no! Absolute legends, both of these blokes. 

Yamazaki "Age Unknown" Keizo Saji Release (43% ABV, 30yo, 1 of 300 bottles, Japan, Price: lots and lots and lots, if you could even find a bottle)
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Colour: Deep rich gold.

Nose: Instantly, I get Golden Rough chocolate (Aussie readers will know it) - milk chocolate with roasted coconut. Straight back to my childhood. That's followed up by creamy vanilla, sultanas, coffee grounds, aged honey, a humidor full of lovingly-aged cigars and a slight nuttiness (walnuts). It's like someone took all the best notes from a beautifully-aged, clean sherried dram, and all the best notes from a beatifully-aged Mizunara dram, and mashed them together. Simply stunning.

Palate: Mercifully, the nose is backed up by an equally complex and stunning palate. There's some spice initially, but it doesn't overpower (like it does in the 2014 Yamazaki Mizunara), and sits alongside more coconut, milk chocolate, sandalwood, nougat and honey in perfect harmony. Back in 2017 I wrote that the 2017 Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year Old had one of the most incredible noses I'd experienced, but the palate didn't match it. In this Age Unknown, it does.

Finish: Long, very long (especially considering the 43% ABV), with coconut, sandalwood, mild woodspice, caramel and honey.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 95/100. Simply incredible. One of the greatest whiskies I've ever had. Anyone have a spare $40k AUD?

See you tomorrow for dram number 3!

Cheers,

Martin.

Tasted #591: 1980 Brora "Prima & Ultima II" 40 Year Old (TimeforWhisky 10 Year Anniversary Dram)

As I wrote last week, this month sees us celebrate 10 years of TimeforWhisky.com, and to mark the occasion Hendy and I decided to write our tasting notes for 5 epic drams, in the lead up to the actual anniversary (22nd Oct).

..then we decided, "hold on...it's a tenth anniversary, we should make it ten posts!"

So that's what we're doing. One post a day from today until 22nd October, each suitably epic, each tasted by either Hendy or myself. Without giving too much away, we'll have:

• Four whiskies in their 50s
• Two whiskies from the 50s
• Some crazy Bowmore
• Whiskies from closed distilleries; and
• A 30yo Japanese single malt from a distillery which most people don't realised produced a 30yo

It should be acknowledged that these are whiskies we've tasted (and taken notes on) over the past 3-4 years - and just never gotten around to uploading onto the blog. 

It should also be acknowledged that many of these whiskies came from very generous whisky folk who provided them freely - simply to share great whisky with other whisky lovers! 

So without further ado, let's kick things off with a 40 Year Old Brora OB, distilled in 1980 and bottled in 2021 as part of Diageo's "Prima & Ultima II" collection.

It's been a while since we've tried a Brora on this TimeforWhisky. Brora Distillery closed in 1983 (but re-opened in May 2021) and in that time has attained legendary status. This particular release is comes from the last of the 1980s casks (3 refill American Oak hogsheads), bottled 18th Jan 2021, and will be the last OB 1980s release. 

Any Brora is sought-after (and expensive) these days, but a 40yo is a unique thing indeed...

1980 Brora "Prima & Ultima II" 40 Year Old (49.2% ABV, 40yo, 1 of 505 bottles, Highlands, Scotland, $13,400SGD)
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Colour: Golden straw.

Nose: Orchard fruits, with subtle wisps of smoke. There's a breadiness, a slight nuttiness, some beeswax, a floral smokiness that lingers through.

Palate: Big and oily, with more orchard fruits, marzipan, peaches and cream - no peach pie, with a freshly baked crust. Slight caramel notes follow, with more of that toasted oak breadiness.

Finish: Very, very long - following the palate with residual fruit, toasted oak and caramel notes.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. Not my favourite Brora to date (it's a high bar, to be fair) but a lovely dram regardless.

A very big thanks to Kam Daswani of Dram Good Stuff for the taste of this Brora.

Cheers,

Martin.

Bowmore 1989 Port Cask Matured 23yo [Tasted #590]

As we approach 10 Years of TimeforWhisky.com in just over a week (and start the "Epic 10" posts from tomorrow), I've been reflecting on some transformative drams I've encountered along the way - those which, despite several years & changing preferences, I still find myself gravitating back to.

One of those is Bowmore's 23 Year Old "Port Cask Matured" from 1989. Released in 2013 as a 12,000 bottle run, this whisky fascinated me as it spent all 23 years in a port casks. Port finishes aren't all that rare, but entire maturation in Port casks (and for a full 23 years) is pretty rare for a Scotch whisky. 

I was intrigued, and (as a lover of most Port-matured whisky), my first taste in 2014 had me hooked. After trying it again at the 2015 Hong Kong launch of Bowmore Mizunara, I decided I needed a bottle, and another, and so on... (I even drank it the day my first son was born).

As whisky tends to do, it got more expensive and harder to come by, so when I bought my last bottle around 2016/2017, I just sort of held on to it...keeping it in the back of the cupboard, waiting for the "right day" to open it...

...which came along just last week, when I arranged a large 'BYOB" whisky gathering dinner (20 people, 40+ bottles...) and decided I'd bring this along. Of course the big question was, after so many years, was it as good as I remembered...?

Bowmore 1989 "Port Cask Matured" 23yo (50.8% ABV, 23yo, 1 of 12,000 bottles, Islay, Scotland)

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Colour: Golden copper

Nose: Rich coffee grounds steeped in toffee, leather journals, cherry pie, with the slightest hints of sea air.

Palate: Follows the nose - creamy and rich, big berry notes, lots of plums, a hint of juicy oak. There's a slightly tangy BBQ note, but for the most part the peat smoke is fairly muted. It's the casks that take over here - but thankfully, they shine.

Finish: Long, slightly drying, with residual hints of plum (then salted plum), coffee grounds and rich cherries.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100. Still the dram I remember. Still the dram I love.

Cheers,

Martin.

Adelphi Selection Ben Nevis 1996-2019 22 Year Old [Tasted #589]

Another day, another tasty 1996 Ben Nevis...this one from one of my favourite Indie Bottlers - Adelphi, bottled in 2019 from a re-fill sherry cask at 22 years old.

Source: The Whisky Shop

Adelphi Selection Ben Nevis 1996-2019 22yo (55% ABV, 22yo, 1 of 205 bottles, Highlands, Scotland, no longer available)

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Colour: Orange gold.

Nose: Tropical and funk - two great Nevis traits (in this case, a little heavier on the tropical side - no bad thing). Lemon, lime, mango, a slight salinity and hints of paprika spice and oak.

Palate: Fruit spice, mince fruit pies, mango chutney and grilled BBQ pineapple, with some guava to round it out, and a nice subtle oak undertone.

Finish: Long, mango spice.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100. Just delicious.

Cheers,

Martin.

Hidden Spirits Clynelish 26yo 1992-2019 [Tasted #588]

There's no doubt about it, Clynelish is a legendary distillery and throughout its history there have been some incredible bottles - especially from the 60s and 70s, and of course any "pre-Brora Clynelish" - these are bottles commanding huge premiums today, even for what was at the time a "standard" 12 year old (or younger) whisky.

Every now and then, a newer, "modern" Clynelish comes along, gets a great review and the whisky world goes into a bit of a frenzy. Probably the most notable / recent example of such a bottle was Hidden Spirits' 1992 26yo "Highproof" Clynelish, bottled from a single cask (#CY9219, if you're interested) in 2019 with an outturn of only 193 bottles.

I missed the boat on release, but managed to grab a sample from Timeless & Tasty (who do still have a great range of Clynelish in Hong Kong), giving me the opportunity to see if the hype was justified for this whisky which Serge Valentin famously gave a 94...

Hidden Spirits' 1992 "Highproof" Clynelish 26yo (50.1% ABV, 26yo, 1 of 193 bottles, Highlands, Scotland)

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Colour: Light copper-gold.

Nose: Big notes of wax and yellow fruit - peach, pear, followed by sherbert. With water I found a little salinity.

Palate: Follows the nose well - viscous and waxy, with apples, pears and peaches. There's a little earthiness, a little sweetness, and a little grassiness. With water, a touch meatier, more salinity again. Overall very mouth-filling, rich and creamy.

Finish: Long, earthy, salted meats.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. Yes, it's a very well-made, elegant, and well-integrated whisky. Very balanced too, with all the notes working in harmony. Is it a 94? Not in my books, but I'm not the world's foremost Clynelish expert either....a very solid dram regardless.

Cheers,

Martin.

Drams at The Auld Alliance: SMWS 1.168 "Delightfully dulcet deliciosity" (Glenfarclas) [Tasted #587]

In the run-up to our "Epic 10" tasting posts from 12th October (as part of our 10th anniversary celebrations) we figured we'd post a few drams that, whilst not quite making the cut, are still great drams in their own right. On that note, I dusted off my notes from my last trip to Singapore, which was back in 2016. Martin recommended visiting a quaint whisky bar in Singapore, a bar many of us are familiar with - The Auld Alliance.

Martin first reviewed the Auld Alliance back in 2013 [in its old Chijmes location] and since then the bar has grown to become a globally known establishment. Its comprehensive old and new whisky offerings are impressive and you can literally spend all day at Auld Alliance and only get through a small portion of their collection.

I remember sitting down that night to sample a few different bottles but one of them stood out, a 28yo Society bottling from distillery 1 (Glenfarclas) that I thought was sensational and super delightful dulcet delicious.

SMWS 1.168 "Delightfully dulcet deliciosity" Glenfarclas 28yo 1984/2012 (53.3% ABV, 28yo, Speyside, Scotland, SMWS, 189 bottles)

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A lovely, rich, creamy malt packed with flavours and a dram I would have to celebrate a momentous occasion.

Colour: Amber gold

Nose: Shortbread cookies with strawberry jam filling, cherries, Arnott Iced Vovo, paint thinner (in a good way), pineapple, tropical fruits, raisins

Palate: Sweet, rich, creamy, fruity, citrus opening then translates to honeydew, strawberries fruit salad, malty caramel, slight maritime overtone 

Finish: Long, oaky with bitter melon finish 

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100.


Cheers,
Hendy

TimeforWhisky.com Celebrates 10 Years!

It's pretty hard for me to believe, but this month marks 10 years since TimeforWhisky.com's very first post! What started as a bit of fun on the side (and a way to get involved in an industry with which I quickly became enamoured) ended up turning into a two-person, Asia-wide blog & social media presence covering all manner of whisky news, events, tastings, launches and opinions - via this site, but increasingly via Instagram & Facebook (and to a lesser extent these days, Twitter).

For all that we've done over the past 10 years though, TimeforWhisky remains a hobby - even if my love of whisky did lead me to a short stint as co-owner of a Whisky bar, and more recently the founder of a small whisky consulting and writing business). Whilst this blog has led to some incredible media trips, amazing whisky experiences and more "bucket list" drams than I could've ever imagined, it was the people which draw me to the whisky industry in the first place, and if I'm honest, the main part of the scene that keeps me so engaged.

It's pretty hard to sum up 600+ posts & over 580 tasting notes in a single reflective post, but there have definitely been some highlights worth mentioning: 

• Being flown to Scotland for an incredible 4 days touring The Macallan's new distillery (and then a cheeky trip up to Highland Park)

• Being one of only 6 people to feature in the launch video for the 1st Release Rosebank 30yo

• Expanding to Asia in 2014, and having Hendy join to run the Australian side

• Meeting the "people behind the whisky" like David Stewart & Kelsey McKechnie from Balvenie, Ian Millar of Glenfiddich, Colin Scott of (then) Chivas, Rebecca Jago & Beanie Espey of The Last Drop Distillers, Richard Paterson of The Dalmore, Eddie Russell of Wild Turkey (and his Father Jimmy Russell), Charlie MacLean, John Campbell of (then) Laphroaig, the who's who of Japanese whisky royalty, Steven Rankin of G&M, Dr Jim Swan (RIP) & the incredible Dr Bill Lumsden (a few times).

• Meeting the "people in front of the whisky" (tireless brand / category ambassadors) including Martin Markvardsen of Highland Park, Sam Simmons of (then) The Balvenie, Dave Broome, Ken Grier of (then) The Macallan & Ronnie Cox ("Red Socks") of BBR / The Glenrothes.

• Hosting the very first International tasting of Starward back in 2015

• ..and then 6 years later, being the first to break the news of SMWS releasing a Starward (actually two)

• Being flown to Singapore to attend an epic party with Bruichladdich

• Being flown to Taipei to attend an epic party with Highland Park (how many whisky parties give you the chance to hold a whisky in one hand and an Eagle in the other?!)

• Attending more whisky dinners than we can recall (though The Macallan Edition 2's at VEA remains one of the highlights)

• Meeting fellow whisky lovers at WhiskyLive Singapore 2016 (who have since become lifelong whisky friends), as well as WhiskyL Shanghai and Tokyo International Bar Show (back when the annual Chichibu release didn't require camping out the night before!)

..and of course, drinking too many incredible bucket list drams to mention, including:

• The Macallan 65 year old in Lalique

• The Dalmore L'Anima 49yo (a 1 of 1 release)
  

• Craigellachie 51yo (the "World's most Uncollectible Whisky")
  

• The "World's Oldest Whisky" (at the time) - G&M's Generations 80 Year Old from Glenlivet Distillery
  

• Black Bowmore 3rd Edition (and again several years later, in Aston Martin re-issue guise)
  
• Gordon & MacPhail’s "Mr George Centenary Edition" 1956 Glen Grant 62yo (still one of the greatest sherried whiskies I've ever tried)
  
• Two 50yo Springbanks on the same day (one distilled in 1919!)
• ...and more whiskies with age statements in their 40s, 50s, 60s and 70s than I can link!

It's fair to say it's been a fun ride, especially since Hendy joined & we've been able to simultaneously cover Hong Kong, Australia and often the rest of Asia. We've even had a few events (like this one) where the stars have aligned and we've been in the same place at the same time, and one occasion where the event was a multi-national one and we've been able to join at the same time, despite the geographical distance! Whisky, bringing people together...even when they're not.

So, what's in store for the future? Well...more of the same really! We left it too late to arrange a special bottling or cask for the occasion, but we do have some pretty special tasting posts coming up (5 10 incredible whiskies we've been saving up) - "Tasted" post #596 #591 onwards, culminating in an epic whisky for #600 on our actual anniversary (22nd Oct 2022).

...and who knows, one day I might even finish writing up the "101 Dram Charitable Challenge" posts, as I'm almost completely through the list now!

Last but not least, we want to say a massive thanks to the tens of thousands of you who continue to read this blog every month, along with those who engage with us over on Instagram, Facebook & Twitter every day. It's been a great 10 years, and here's to the next 10.

Cheers,

Martin.

Bowmore 1997 23yo Club Qing Fairytale Series [Tasted #586]

Continuing with the theme of "whiskies from distilleries & bottlers I love, but don't post enough on the blog", is this 23yo Bowmore from 1997, bottled by Club Qing as part of their "Fairy Tale" series.

It wasn't that long ago that I used to buy almost every Club Qing release (including this beauty, which I cracked open to celebrate the birth of my son), but as whisky's become more popular in HK, they've become harder to get at retail, and I've just come to accept that when it comes to whisky, you're never going to be able to buy every bottle you want.

Luckily, this is Hong Kong, which means if you miss out on a bottle, there's a very good chance you know someone who didn't, and they're either happy to share it at the next gathering, or they're offering samples...

 

Bowmore 1997-2021 (Club Qing Fairy Tale Release #5) (43.7% ABV, 23yo, 1 of 198 bottles, Islay, Scotland, no longer available)

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Colour: Amber gold

Nose: Fruit-smoked peat. Peach, pear, candied apple. Pears, honey, and an underlying maritime smoke.

Palate: Follows the nose, with some caramelised mango, pineapple, and a big chewy peach pie with a flamed crust.

Finish: Long, salt-smoked mango and peach.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. A Bowmore with tropical notes? Yes please and thanks! 

Cheers,

Martin.

Old Master Spirits' 1972 39yo Baron de Sigognac Bas Armagnac [Tasted #585]

When I caught up with Deni & David from Old Master Spirits recently, they didn't just hand me a sample of their beautiful 1982 Armagngac, they also passed me a sample of their 1972 39yo, from the same Armagnac producer Chateau Bordeneuve (better known by the name "Baron de Sigognac")

The 10 year age gap also means this 1972 was distilled under the previous ownership, by then owner and distiller Monsieur Rambach (the distillery was sold to current owner Mr. Jean-Claude Gausch in 1974, and is currently run by his son Thomas). Comprised of 80% Baco 20% Ugni Blanc grapes, it was distilled in the same 100+ year old alembic still, and was aged in Limousin wood like all Armagnac produced at the distillery.

The eagle-eyed amongst you might note that whilst this is from a decade earlier than the 1982, it's also listed as a 39yo (the same as the 1982). The simple reason for that is the age is only counting the years matured in Oak, noting the extra 10+ years it sat in a glass Demi Jeanne (Demijohn) separately.

As mentioned in the previous article, the House has an all-natural, no additives policy - no water, sugar, colouring or any of that nature, and everything is bottled at cask strength (this one coincidentally right on 46%)!

Let's dive in...

Old Master Spirits 1972 39yo Baron de Sigognac Bas Armagnac (46.0% ABV, 39yo, 1 of 151 (500mL) bottles, France, $299AUD (available 20th October 2022))

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Colour: Orange copper

Nose: Rich vanilla wood spice, Madagascan vanilla essence, with hints of stone fruits - apricot, peach, then some leather and wood polish.

Palate: Initially quite "desserty" - vanilla ice cream, flambéed banana, then a hint of cherry after time. There's some funk (less so than the 1982), and some grape jam to round things out. 

Finish: Long, vanilla wood spice.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. A complex, well-made and thoroughly enjoyable Armagnac. For me, the 1982 slightly edges it out, but in my view it's more of a "whisky drinker's Armagnac", whereas this is more of a "brandy drinker's Armagnac". A little more traditional, but very, very high quality. I spoke to Deni about this, and he said opinions from those who've tried both were split - some preferring the '82 (including some whisky-loving friends), and some the '72. Isn't that the beauty of spirits though?

Old Master Spirits 1982 39yo Baron de Sigognac Bas Armagnac will launch on 20th October 2022, at an RRP of $299 through oldmasterspirits.com.au. Get in quick as these never last long!

Cheers,

Martin.

Ben Nevis 1996-2020 (The Whisky Agency) TWA Spring 2020 Release [Tasted #584]

If you follow us on @TimeforWhisky on Instagram, you might know I'm a massive Ben Nevis fan, especially casks from the mid to late 1990s. For some reason I haven't posted many on the blog, but when reading through some old tasting notes (at least 400 of which I've never gotten around to posting!), I came across this 1996 Ben Nevis from The Whisky Agency, which ticked all the right boxes for me.

TWA releases are usually pretty high quality (sadly with price tags to match on the secondary market), so I was pretty confident this 1996 Ben Nevis (from a Hogshead) would be too, despite the lower ABV of 47.6%.

I wasn't disappointed...

The Whisky Agency Ben Nevis 1996-2020 (TWA Spring 2020 Release) (47.6% ABV, 23yo, 1 of 264 bottles, Highlands, Scotland, no longer available)

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Colour: Light yellow gold

Nose: Oooh yes, this is what I love in a Nevis. A tropical fruitbomb (or "Tropic Thunder" / "TT") Nevis! Peach, pear, rockmelon, overripe apples and bananas. Just awesome.

Palate: Passionfruit, peach and plum. A slight herbal-spiced earthiness, with some waxed Apple. Very much a typical 1996 Nevis, with a good dollop of tropical fruit on top.

Finish: Passionfruit and peach continue, with a residual vanilla cream. No residual oak tannins.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. Just absolutely delicious.

I really need to get onto these as they're released more often...

Cheers,

Martin.

Jack Daniel's Bonded [Tasted #583]

The Bottled in Bond Act was introduced in 1897 in the United States to guarantee that a bottle of whiskey the consumer was buying was really whiskey. So what does this involve? In order for a whiskey to be regarded as a "bonded whiskey", distillation must be completed by a single distiller during a single season, matured in a government bonded warehouse for at least four years and bottled at 100 proof.

While we have never doubted Jack Daniel's whiskies are true whiskies, Jack Daniel's latest release - Jack Daniel's Bonded is a release that has been produced in the true letter of the law. Not only has it been "Bottled-in-Bond" at 100 proof, per the bill but it has also been packaged similarly to the original design of the 1895 Jack Daniel's Tennessee Whiskey bottle.

Jack Daniel's Bonded is also built on the same recipe of its flagship Old No. 7 Tennessee Whiskey. Based on a mash bill of 80% corn, 12% malted barley, and 8% rye and undergo a seven-day fermentation. The mash is distilled in copper column stills and filtered through 10-foot-long columns of charcoal, made out of Tennessee sugar maple wood.

Chris Fletcher, Jack Daniel’s Master Distiller commented:

“The Jack Daniel Distillery has been making American whiskey to the highest standards for generations, before and after the Bottled in Bond Act, dating back to the days of Mr. Jack himself. Jack Daniel’s Bonded is a nod to our heritage with a touch of innovation and craftsmanship."

Bonded will be the first permanent expression in Jack Daniel's new Bonded Series. The Bonded Series will honour the whiskey-making excellence of the iconic Jack Daniel and will be a permanent extension in the Jack Daniel’s Family of Brands.

Jack Daniel's Bonded (50% ABV, NAS, Tennessee, USA, A$87.99) 

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Big, bold and good quality Tennessee Whiskey at 100 proof with layered notes of sweet honey, raisins, dried fruit, rich oak, and spices giving way to a pleasantly smooth lingering spiced finish.

Nose: Fresh, floral, rich, vanilla, lemon, lime, and honey with an overlay of sandalwood and oak

Palate: Big, bold, with lots of grains and spices from nutmeg to cardamom followed by a cinnamon bun covered with honey and some raisins.

Finish: Long and smooth, spices remain for a long while.

Rating: 92/100 

Cheers
Hendy

Thanks to Adrian from Different and Jack Daniel for providing us with a sample to review.

Old Master Spirits' 1982 39yo Baron de Sigognac Bas Armagnac [Tasted #582]

Just over a year ago, I wrote about new Aussie independent bottler "Old Master Spirits", started by two whisky (and brandy) lovers Deni & David. Since then, I've been lucky to taste almost all their releases (including a 1957, 63yo Cognac - not bad for an inaugural product!), and more recently spent an evening with the gents in the comfort of Deni's incredible whisky room, enjoying great spirits and even better chat until the early hours.

The gents were kind enough to pass me a pre-release sample of their upcoming release - again grape-based, but this time an Armagnac - specifically a 39yo 1982 Armagnac from producer Chateau Bordeneuve (better known by the name "Baron de Sigognac").

Old Master Spirits continue their label theme, with scenes from the distilleries / Chateaux by the talented Fai

I won't profess to be an expert on any grape-based spirits (or anything, really), so won't attempt to coverall the complexities of how Cognac & Armagnac differ (for that, see here, here and here), but in a nutshell - in addition to being produced in a different part of France and often using alternative grapes, Armagnac is most commonly distilled in a single Alembic / column still, employing continuous distillation. In the case of Baron de Sigognac, said still is over 100 years old!

The Domaine matures stock in a warehouse from 1840, in a mixture of first fill and (mostly) refill casks - all strictly Limousin oak. Importantly (for Old Master Spirits, and for us) the House has an all-natural, no additives policy - no water, sugar, colouring or any of that nature...and everything is bottled at cask strength!

All grapes are pressed, fermented and distilled at the Domaine exclusively for the production of Bas-Armagnac. In the case of this 1982, those grapes are 65% Baco, 25% Ugni Blanc & 10% Folle Blanche.

So that's some quick background on how it was made...but I'm sure what you all want to know is how does it taste?

Old Master Spirits 1982 39yo Baron de Sigognac Bas Armagnac (47.6% ABV, 39yo, 1 of 122 (500mL) bottles, France, $249AUD (available 25th Aug 2022))

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Colour: Orange copper.

Nose: Cherries, rich fruit compote, peaches & cream, with a hint of funky old leather and rum'n'raisin dark chocolate.

Palate: Mouth-coating, warming yet very refined. Raspberry jam, oranges, mandarin, and then soon after, a noticeable earthy funk. I'm somewhat hesitant to say this, lest one of the keyboard warriors on my Facebook page claim I'm "biased" or "paid" again (I'm neither)...but f*ck it - the funk here genuinely reminded me a little of a good Springbank. This is a spirit you can sit, savour and soak up the complexity, but it's also one you can just sit back with a tumbler and enjoy.

Finish: Long and sweet, with more rum'n'raisin notes.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100. This score seems to be becoming a theme amongst some of Old Master's releases...but in my view it 's justified. I tried this alongside a different, older Armagnac (more on that soon), which to me was much more of a "typical brandy". Very very good, but instantly a Brandy. This 1982 though, to be this is, in my opinion, a whisky drinkers' Armagnac. 

Old Master Spirits 1982 39yo Baron de Sigognac Bas Armagnac will launch this Thursday (25th Aug 2022) at an RRP of $249 through oldmasterspirits.com.au. I’ll be buying a bottle. 

Cheers,

Martin.

Thanks to Deni & David who provided the sample of this 1982 Bas-Armagnac (with absolutely no expectations that I write about it, or if I do, what I say!)

Lagavulin 30 Year Old "Cask of Distinction" Single Cask #5403 [Tasted #581]

A month or so ago, I got word that House Welley Bar in Hong Kong (see our review here) had a pretty special bottle about to be released. I didn't get any clues as to what it was, but with bottles like a 23yo Cask of Distinction Lagavulin & a 100+ year old Cognac to their name already (or those of their founders'), I figured it would be something pretty special.

Turns out, it was...

Yep, they'd gone and bottled (along with their friends from Wu Dram Clan, HK Whisky Fellows & Kirsch Whisky) a single cask of 30 Year Old Lagavulin.

Not just any single cask of 30 Year Old Lagavulin, mind you, a Diageo Cask of Distinction Single Cask.

For those unfamiliar with the "CoD" program, you can find a little more detail here on our write-up of another excellent HK-exclusive CoD (a 35yo Clynelish). Suffice to say, these are truly rare and excellent casks, and I don't believe we've seen a 30yo Lagavulin bottled yet (a few 1991 Lagavulin casks have been bottled, but at 25-28 years old).

Diageo's CoD terminology means a "Select Cask" is a cask that underwent secondary maturation (e.g. a finish, or a vatting of casks - bottled from a single cask, but not matured entirely in that single cask) whereas "Single Cask" (what we have here) denotes the whisky maturing its entire life in a single cask - in this case, a 1st Fill European Oak Sherry Butt (interestingly, seasoned with both PX and Oloroso). 

Distilled on 4th November 1991, the whisky was bottled at 44.3% on 6th Jan 2022, yielding 318 bottles.

The whisky was released when I was in hotel quarantine, but as soon as I was free, I made a bee line for House Welley Bar. Conventional wisdom might suggest you don't start your night with a peated, sherried dram...but for this dram, the rules went out the window...

Lagavulin "Cask of Distinction" 30 Year Old Cask #5403, bottled for Hong Kong Whisky Fellows, Welley, Christoph Kirsch, Sebastien Jaeger & Boris Borissov (44.3% ABV, 30yo, Cask #5403, One of 318 bottles, Islay, Scotland, $900HKD/15mL @ House Welley Bar, Hong Kong)

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Colour: Coffee copper.

Nose: Immediately intoxicating. Which is more prominent? The beautiful clean sherry (which has sweet PX hints and dryer Oloroso hints), or the subtle peat? Sometimes one, sometimes the other. There are whole oranges alongside barbecued bacon fat. It's so obviously a Lagavulin, but the most elegant and clean Laga you've ever nosed. One of those noses you just want to sit on forever. After about 15 minutes, I started getting notes of really elegant old sherry casks - dunnage warehouses and a slightly earthy mushroom note. I'm talking about notes I generally only find on recently-released, but old sherried G&M drams (whiskies in the 60-80 year old age bracket) - not "old bottle effect", but "they don't make casks like that anymore" effect.

Palate: Follows the nose, with the bacon fat, mushroom notes following through, alongside some Crème Caramel, raspberry pie (with a flamed crust), leather, citrus and always the contrasting sherry and peat notes complimenting each other beautifully. After time, there are some sweeter icing sugar on a raspberry muffin notes coming through.

Finish: Medium in length, with just a hint of oak tannins, alongside raspberries, residual campfire smoke. After some time, the sweetness of the smoke increases.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100. That's a high score, but this is a deserving whisky. Just sublime. Likely to spoil you for every Lagavulin you'll drink in the future (but still...worth it).

 

Congratulations to Hong Kong Whisky Fellows, House Welley Bar, Christoph Kirsch, Sebastien Jaeger & Boris Borissov for bottling such a stunning CoD, and for actually ensuring bottles are opened and enjoyed by as many whisky lovers as possible (I was at the bar less than a week after the announcement, and this was already the second bottle).

For those in Hong Kong, I can highly recommend dropping into House Welley Bar to try a dram. For those in Europe, I hope some of the other bottles get opened shortly!

Cheers,

Martin.