Tasting the Kangaroo Island Spirits' Whisky range [Tasted #711 - 713]

If you've noticed we've been featuring more Aussie whisky on the blog over the past year, that's not by accident. Since moving back to Australia, I've been trying to re-acquaint myself with the scene, and trying more and more new Australian distilleries (alongside new whiskies from old favourites).

(Don't worry though, there's still plenty of crazy old rare Scotch being regularly posted over on the TimeforWhisky.com Instagram!)

One of those new(er) distilleries to recently come across my radar is Kangaroo Island Spirits, from (surprise surprise) Kangaroo Island in South Australia, South West of Adelaide. It's a place better known for its wildlife and wilderness than its whisky, but that may be about to change.

Kangaroo Island Spirits (KIS) was founded by Jon and Sarah Lark in 2006 as (this surprised me) Australia's first dedicated gin distillery (if that surname sounds familiar, it's no coincidence. Jon's brother is none other than Bill Lark, the Godfather of Australian whisky). Whilst gin was the focus, whisky was part of the longer-term plan, and around 2020 a brand-new 4,500L still was installed, making KIS the largest whisky distillery in South Australia. The whisky program uses locally grown Kangaroo Island barley, malted on the island and aged in ex-Bourbon barrel, Apera and Tawny casks.

Having quietly been maturing away for the past 5+ years, the whisky is now ready for its official release this month, coming in 3 forms - Bourbon, Apera and Tawny cask matured, each showing a different view of the same spirit. KIS were kind enough to send a sample pack for review recently, so let's dive in....

Kangaroo Island Spirits Single Malt Whisky Aged in Bourbon Casks (43% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, South Australia, Australia, $135AUD)
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Colour: Straw.

Nose: Vibrant and zingy — fresh lime zest leads, followed by lightly toasted oat cakes and a clean, breezy freshness that speaks honestly to its youth, but without harshness. 

Palate: Light in body, which suits the spirit character well. White pepper first, with a gentle vanilla sweetness and a touch of honey throughout. Clean and easy-going, with the ex-Bourbon cask providing a soft, sweet frame.

Finish: Short, with a pleasant honey spice trailing off.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 87/100 (Martin). A clean, well-made young spirit that wears its youth comfortably. The Bourbon cask has done its job without overstepping or overpowering — this is a solid foundation, and a good entry point into the range.

Kangaroo Island Spirits Single Malt Whisky Aged in Apera Casks (43% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, South Australia, Australia, $135AUD)

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Colour: Golden sunset.

Nose: Immediately more expressive - a burst of fresh-squeezed citrus leads the way, with orange juice and lemonade Icy Poles jostling for position. After a few minutes, some key lime pie notes emerge, lightly sweet and bright. The same youthful freshness as the Bourbon expression, but with a little more going on.

Palate: Follows the nose faithfully, which is often a good sign of a well-made spirit. Light and fresh, with Apera-derived sherry notes arriving gently - no heaviness or overt cask influence. Marmalade, mango and orange weave together nicely, making for a palate that's fruit-forward and enjoyable.

Finish: Medium in length, with mango, orange and a hint of peach lingering pleasantly. The fruitiness carries through well to the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 88/100 (Martin). My preference over the Bourbon cask - the Apera cask has added dimension and vibrancy without obscuring the spirit character. If Aussie whisky's best trick (even if not always done successfully) is deploying local wine casks without overpowering the spirit, this is an encouraging early example of that principle at work. 

Kangaroo Island Spirits Single Malt Whisky Aged in Tawny Casks (43% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, South Australia, Australia, $135AUD)
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Colour: Orange gold.

Nose: Richer and deeper than the previous two — there's a step up in complexity here. Milk chocolate and sultanas are front and centre, with an almost Christmas cake warmth underneath. The Tawny cask has worked harder and left a more definitive mark than on the other two.

Palate: Still youthful, but the Tawny has had some more noticeable impact. Berries, plum jam and cherry pie all make an appearance, giving the palate a darker, more dessert-like character that sets it apart from the other two. 

Finish: Medium to long, the longest of the three, with sultanas and dark chocolate hanging around in a satisfying way. 

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 88/100 (Martin). The most complex and characterful of the three, and a signal of intent from KIS. The Tawny casks have given this spirit a depth whilst still allowing the spirit to show.

Taken together, this is an encouraging debut. Youthful, but enjoyable, distinct, and a strong indication of things to come. The Bourbon Cask is clean and approachable, the Apera is bright and fruit-forward, and the Tawny is the standout for character and length.

The really interesting question (as with so many newer distilleries) is what these whiskies will become with another few years under their belt. The foundation is clearly there. Worth keeping an eye on.

Thanks to Kangaroo Island Spirits for the media samples.

Cheers,
Martin.

Tasted #710: Ardbeg Dolce (Ardbeg Day 2026)

Yep, it's that time of year again - when Ardbeg release something whacky/unusual/fun (often all 3) to mark the annual celebration known as Ardbeg Day, now in it's 15th year (hard to believe it's been 15 years since that first Aussie celebration at Milsons' Point - time flies)!

This year’s release is “Ardbeg Dolce”, and as we announced on Instagram, Aussies were one of the first in the world to get access to it via a 24hr preview from Thursday 30 April via the Ardbeg Committee, then exclusively through @thewhiskyclub.com.au from Friday 1 May.

Ardbeg Dolce’s uniqueness comes from cask finishing (like previous Ardbeg Day releases) - this year, it’s Marsala casks, which previously held some of Sicily’s sweetest fortified wine. 

My tasting notes on the new release are below, but of course, Ardbeg Day isn’t just a whisky release - it’s first and foremost a celebration! Ardbeg Day itself (Sat 30 May) is being reimagined as PEAT-ZZERIA across Australia’s Ardbeg Embassies — think woodfired pizzas & peat at Silvers Motel (with Dr Bill Lumsden in person no less!), Whisky and Alement, The Gresham, Foxtrot Unicorn, Malt n Juniper and Volstead Repeal. Tickets available now (link).

 

Ardbeg Dolce (Ardbeg Day 2026) (47.8% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, Marsala Cask Finish, Islay, Scotland, $180AUD)

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Colour: Light golden copper

Nose: Sweet but herbal up front, almost lavender-esque. The traditional Ardbeg peat is absolutely still there for those who want it, but it sits underneath some lovely earthy undertones.

Palate: Follows the nose faithfully, with the herbal/floral character carrying through, but now joined by some fresh peach, a hit of salinity, cinnamon-tinged smoke, pot pourri and dried apricot. The Marsala influence is doing some solid work here without overpowering the spirit.

Finish: Long and sweet, with the peat lingering well past the sweetness (as you might expect).

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). Another enjoyable release and very fitting of Ardbeg Day. The Marsala finish brings something genuinely different to the table, and the 47.8% keeps it interesting for whisky enthusiasts, whilst remaining accessible.

Cheers,
Martin.

Note: In the interests of transparency, Dolce was reviewed as part of a paid engagement with Ardbeg, although as always views above are honest, unadulterated, and purely our own.

Tasted #709: Archie Rose "Smoked Cask Series" Cinnamon Smoked Single Malt Whisky

One of the many great things about the Aussie whisky industry is the freedom afforded to (and actively embraced by) its producers. Whilst there are rules, they're less restrictive than (say for example) SWA's rules for Scotch Malt Whisky, and so you tend to find some pretty fun and interesting releases - whiskies matured in woods other than oak, whiskies finished in a plethora of interesting cask types (Ginger Beer Cask, anyone?), and in this case, whisky matured in casks which themselves have been smoked with different botannicals.

"Smoked Cask Series" is the name, and as Archie Rose Master Distiller Dave Withers puts it:

“In Australia, we’re fortunate to be unbound by tradition, which gives us the freedom to be bold and find our own new ways of doing things. With that in mind, this series is all about reimagining what a smoked whisky can be; questioning why the flavour of smoke can only come from the treatment of grains.

We wanted to tackle the question of whether we could bring a different dimension to our whisky by smoking the maturation casks, instead of the grains,” Dave says. “It’s also about testing the boundaries of where that smoke comes from. Conventional smoky whiskies are always made with peat or sometimes timber smoke, but here we have shown that a different set of flavours can be created through the use of aromatic botanicals like the ones we’ve used for this series"

For the series, 4 botanicals (Wattleseed, Juniper, Cinnamon and Lavender) were chosen after 30 different trials. I sat down with “Cinnamon Smoked” (Limited Release No.15) recently, to see what impact this unique form of smoking had on the whisky.

Archie Rose "Smoked Cask Series" Cinnamon Smoke (51.6% ABV, NAS, Sydney, Australia, One of 495 bottles, sold out)

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Colour: Deep toffee brown

Nose: Smoked pineapple, toasted oak, orange zest and hints of charred banana.

Palate: Brings the pineapple from the nose, but more whole oranges than orange zest. Spicy smoke undertones, with some very subtle cinnamon notes.

Finish: Long, warming toasted oak.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Martin). I like Archie Rose's regular single malt spirit, and this is a really fun and tasty twist on it - pairing some of those expected tropical notes with a warming, spicy undertones. This would be great by a fire, as we're getting into winter (shame it's sold out)!

Thanks Mint Partners and Archie Rose for the bottle.


Cheers,
Martin.

Old Master Spirits' A.100 Famille Cabanne Grande Champagne Cognac - 100 Years in Oak! [Tasted #708]

It's been a little while since I've tasted an Old Master Spirits release for the blog, but as a quick refresher for those unfamiliar, OMS was founded by Melbournites Deni Kay and David Vuu to "find liquid treasures from across the globe with a focus on provenance and bottling spirits in their most natural form". Think small, family-run houses, single barrel / limited releases, quality spirit and great value.

5 years on (time flies), David and Deni are celebrating the 5th Anniversary of Old Master Spirits with what can only be described as an incredibly fitting release - a Cognac that's been aged for 100 years in French Oak!

The release in question is the Old Master Spirits A.100 Famille Cabanne 100 Year Old Grande Champagne Cognac, and there'll be only 42 bottles available (actually, 41 now as Deni recently opened one).

Distilled in the early 1920s by the Cabanne family in the village of Bourg-Charente, this eau de vie was produced on lees, over direct fire, in a still that's long since been decommissioned (though it still sits at the Cabanne distillery as a heritage piece). It then slumbered for a full century in refill "Seguin Moreau" coarse-grained French oak barrels (themselves ~15 years old when filled), before being bottled in November 2025 at a natural cask strength of 46.6% ABV.

Famille Cabanne itself is a name I wasn't familiar with, but the story goes back to 1810 when Monsieur Francois Cabanne first settled on the banks of the river Charente. Over 200 years and four generations later, the house remains family-owned (as do most of the houses Old Master Spirits work with), with 74 hectares of vines and - incredibly - current stock holdings featuring cognacs dating back to the early 1800s! 

(You can read my thoughts on several of Old Master Spirits' previous releases here — including their Tiffon V.45 Petite Champagne Cognac, previously the oldest spirit independently bottled for Australia)

Made from 100% Ugni Blanc grapes and sitting firmly in the Grande Champagne cru, this release ticks the type of boxes you (or at least I) want in serious old Cognac: natural strength, unfiltered, single estate. 

When you consider that no commercially-available whisky has ever reached 100 years of age (and many of them in the 50+ age bracket require a mortgage), $1,399 AUD for a 100-year-old single-estate Grande Champagne Cognac at cask strength, bottled exclusively for Australia, seems a remarkably fair price

As mentioned, there are just 42 41 bottles in existence, officially launching on 30th April (with 24-hour early access via the OMS mailing list from the 29th). 

...but of course, age, exclusivity, provenance are one thing, but taste is another. Does it live up to expectations? Read on for my thoughts...

Old Master Spirits A.100 Famille Cabanne 100 Year Old Grande Champagne Cognac (46.6% ABV, 100yo, Cask Strength, France, One of 42 bottles, $1,399 AUD)

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Colour: Deep dark rich copper (but the first thing you notice is the viscosity - this thing is THICK)

Nose: Immediately jumps out of the glass, with intense prunes, dates, coffee, sweet apricot and mango. I tasted it twice (about a week apart) to see how it evolved with a bit of air in the sample bottle, and the second tasting brought more tropical notes, with the mango stronger on the nose for me.

Palate: All the notes from the nose, but with additional notes of milk chocolate, orange, more mango, peach, cherries. It's super viscous, and feels more flavoursome than 46%, but at the same time incredibly elegant and refined. These are BIG, but very elegant flavours.

Finish: Long, warming, fruity coffee (think Ethiopian Yirgacheffe-like coffee notes), 

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100 (Martin). Honestly, an incredible spirit, genuinely one of the best Cognacs I've ever had.

Thanks Deni & David for the sample.

Cheers,
Martin.

An interview with Sullivans Cove Distillery Manager Heather Tillott, and a tasting of two new releases (Tasted #706 - 707)

It's been a big few weeks for Sullivans Cove - not only have they recently announced, for the first time, a cask strength version of the French Oak (at 17 years, no less - ballot open now), along with a French Oak Apera at nearly 10 years old (sold out), they've also just won a World Whiskies Awards "World's Best" for the fourth time - this time for World's Best Single Cask Single Malt Whisky.

Following their now-legendary 2014 win (and subsequent wins in 2018 and 2019) it was French Oak White Wine Old & Rare TD0112 which took home the award this time, beating out 23 other single cask single malt country-winners to take home the prize.

As if that wasn't enough though, the distillery also took home two further "Icons of Whisky" awards for its people, with Distillery Manager Heather Tillott winning the "Innovator Manager of the Year" award, and Warehouse Manager Marcelo Viapiana winning "Global Warehouse Manager of the Year.

 

It seemed then, like a suitable time to post an interview I held with Heather Tillott last year, when I was lucky enough to join the distillery in celebrating their 25 Year Old whisky milestone.

Martin: 25 years is an incredible achievement for Australian Whisky, but these were distilled at a time when that wasn’t necessarily the goal. 25 years on from that time, has the view towards long-term maturation changed in Australian Whisky and how does Sullivans Cove look at this in particular? Might we see even older Sullivan’s Cove releases in the coming years or decades?

Heather: Quite correct - the goal when these casks were laid down wasn’t to reach 25! The good people in that era of Sullivans were experimenting and learning what it meant to make whisky in Tasmania at that time, and we are very lucky to be able to continue with the work they did so many years ago.

25 years on at Sullivans, we’ve learnt a lot about how to craft spirit that is suited to a variety of ages, and how to nurture casks through the years in order to enable the greatest expressions of each cask to come to life.

While many distilleries founded in more recent years simply haven’t had the time to explore longer term aging, it’s only a matter of time. And while it’s not about an arms race to the highest age statement whisky, it’s also only a matter of time before we see even older Sullivans releases, as this is the nature of the bondstore… Time keeps on moving!

Martin: Since taking over production, how closely did you and your team need to monitor these two casks, or provide any active intervention (eg moving them around the bond store) - to ensure they remained “whisky”, but also didn’t get overpowered by oak and retained the quality Sullivans Cove drinkers expect?

Heather: Very closely. Old spirit can be quite fragile, and so extra care and attention is very important. They’ve both had moves about the bondstores, and both have had a gentle dilution during their maturation. This is an old technique used in Cognac and Scotch to gently reduce proof strength, thus enabling a softer maturation and ensuring the balance of oak remains.

Martin: In recent years as it became clear these tasks would reach 25 years, was 25 years the goal, or were they deemed “ready” (by a tasting panel) then, and it just happened to be at a nice round 25 years?

Heather: We allow each of our casks to tell us when they are ready! It’s a rollercoaster of emotions at times, with some casks in particular, but the end result is a wonderful collaboration of people, place and produce… After all, whisky is a product of agriculture, which means people and place! Thus, we didn’t have a particular age in mind for these two- they both came right on the same tasting panel on the 6th of May. We have a nautical bell which we ring when we decide to decant a cask, it’s in the distillery for all to hear… The bell rang twice that morning.

Martin: As the person responsible for production at  a world-renowned distillery on an island famed for its pristine environment, what is the most important sustainability initiative the Australian whisky industry needs to adopt today to ensure its long-term viability?

Heather: There’s a number of really important environmental initiatives in the operational discussion – irrigation in the field, a move toward organic practices, heat recovery systems in the brewhouse and distillery, co-product relationships with local farmers, sourcing casks closer to home (i.e., Australian wine casks!), etc. And there’s also the equally important considerations in the sustainability conversation around the people and business systems that keep the heartbeat of the industry. There is a range of scale and operations in Australian whisky, with many in the micro space; for us to ensure long-term viability we need an industry which supports all levels of scale, healthy workplaces, healthy businesses, as well as a care for our environment.

Martin: Given your background in winemaking, what's a lesson or technical philosophy you carried with you from the vineyard to the distillery?

Heather: The best advice I’ve ever received was from the world of wine… “Get out of the way.” I.e., don’t try to force the product to be a certain way. Tread gently, get out of the way, and let the magic blossom. It’s the duende!

Martin: Last but not least, it’s been a long day and you reach for something to unwind. Is it wine or whisky?

Heather: At the end of a long day, I like to revisit older bottlings of Sullivans, or high-ester rum. Both hold time to ransom for a while for me – there is nowhere to be other than the moment.

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Sullivans Cove 17 Year Old French Oak Cask Strength (Cask TD0297 (63.1% ABV, Single Malt, 17yo, 1 of 343 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $2,500AUD)
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Colour: Dark Amber-gold

Nose: Big and robust notes of Blackberries mixed with an old dunnage warehouse.

Palate: Super viscous, with notes of gooey caramel, cigar box, a slight salinity and some meatier notes. There's some fruitier notes too - mature oranges and some berries.

Finish: Long and warming, with toasted oak and caramel chews.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). Given what this cask strength expression gives us in the way of flavour and complexity, hopefully this won't be the last CS release we see from the distillery! Delicious.

Sullivans Cove 9 Year Old French Oak Cask Strength (Cask TD0820 (47.6% ABV, Single Malt, 9yo, 1 of 260 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $550AUD - sold out)
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Colour: Dark Orange-gold

Nose: Coffee grounds, toffee, fresh oak, flamed oranges and a hint of Eucalyptus.

Palate: Oily, with initial notes of honey, marmalade, and an underlying grassy spearmint. Notes of old oak round things out, but on the whole it's fresh, vibrant and has a lot going on.

Finish: Long and fresh, with the grassy-minty note continuing alongside orange and warming oak.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Martin). I was expecting it to be a tasty dram, but wasn't expecting this much complexity. That was a pleasant surprise.

A big thanks to Heather for her time, and the distillery team for the samples.

 

Cheers,

Martin.

Tasted #705: Indri Agneya Single Malt Indian Whisky

It's hard to believe it's been 11 years this year, but in 2015 I visited Amrut Distillery for what was (still, to this day) the most in-depth distillery tour I've ever taken. Over many hours I got an incredibly in-depth look into every facet of Amrut's production, directly from the man responsible for making "Indian Single Malt" a thing, Surrinder Kumar.

In 2019 Surrinder however moved to Piccadily Agro Industries Limited, and subsequently launched what is now India's #1 selling single malt, Indri. We've featured Indri a few times on the blog, praising both their "Trini" in 2022 and Diwali Collector's Edition & Founder's Reserve last year. When Piccadily reached out offering a bottle of their latest "Agneya", matured in a mix of ex-Sherry and ex-Bourbon casks, I wasn't about to say no!

  

Derived from the Sanskrit word meaning “belonging to fire", Agneya is said to be a lightly-peated dram, non-chill filtered and with no added colour.

So without further ado...

Indria "Agneya" (46% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, Haryana, India, $104.99AUD, £46.25)
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Colour: Golden copper

Nose: Dried fig, raisins and a big hit of ginger. There are subtle hints of smoke (woodfired / BBQ smoke), along with some oak, spice and a little varnish. Quite a bit going on!

Palate: Stays true to the nose, with more chocolate, a little floral hint, some banana, woodsmoke & burnt orange peel

Finish: Long, with residual subtle woodfire smoke, salted chocolate and soft warming spices.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). Another great dram from Indri.

Cheers,

Martin.

Hellyers Road Aged 22 Years, 21 Years & 12 Years (Tasted #702 - 704)

Happy New Year! Hope you all managed to get some downtime over the holiday period (hopefully with a dram or two in hand).

We're back into it for 2026, kicking off where we left off, with a few more Australian whiskies...

My two trips to Tassie last year (after a 17 year absence) gave me a great opportunity to get back into the Aussie whisky scene I’d been away from for so long - to try a bunch of new distilleries, rediscover old ones, and to connect and re-connect with some great whisky folk in Tassie.

One of those people was Mark from Whisky is my Jam - arguably one of the most knowledgable, passionate and connected people in all of Tasmanian whisky, and also a genuinely great bloke.

On a few occasions Mark took me through a range of Tassie whiskies - some I was experiencing for the first time, and some I hadn't tried in over a decade. In the latter camp was Hellyers Road, which in a "full circle" kind of moment was actually the very first two whiskies I ever wrote about on this blog (over 13 years ago)!

Mark put me in touch with David from Sales & Promotions at the distillery (someone I'd been following on IG for years), who was kind enough to send me a few well-aged samples to re-acquaint myself further. Included were:

• American Oak Aged 22 Years cask #2325.03 (80 bottles, full maturation, 56.5% ABV)
• World Whiskies Awards 2025 Best Australian Single Malt winner Peated Cask Finish Aged 21 Years Cask #20F05C01 (301 bottles, 17 years in ex-Bourbon then 4 years in an ex-peated Hellyers Road cask, 52.5% ABV)
• World Whiskies Awards 2022 Best Australian Single Malt winner American Oak Aged 12 Years (fully matured in 1st Fill ex-Bourbon casks, 46.2%)

Let's dig in...

 

Hellyers Road American Oak Aged 22 Years (Cask #2325.03) (56.5% ABV, Single Malt, 22yo, 1 of 80 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $1,450AUD)
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Colour: Amber sunset.

Nose: Big and complex - orange / citrus notes and perfume, with some slight hints of peach, treacle and oak.

Palate: Immediate zesty orange peel, followed up by whole orange slices. Some oak spice & marmalade, ginger, and a slight grassy herbaceousness. It's complex, and it all works well. 

Finish: Long, marmalade, stone fruits.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). 

Hellyers Road Peated Cask Finish Aged 21 Years (Cask #20F05C01) (52.5% ABV, Single Malt, 21yo, 1 of 301 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $1,350AUD)
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Colour: Golden sunset

Nose: Keeps the citrus oil and perfume of the 22yo, but with a subtle underlying campfire note, and more tropical notes (passionfruit mostly).

Palate: The peat smoke is more pronounced on the palate, but the passionfruit and oranges (whole) are there too, in perfect harmony.

Finish: Residual BBQ smoky meatiness, with some final orange zest. Long and lingering.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). Peated cask finishes sometimes don't work too well, but I'm glad to say in this case it works very nicely.

 

Hellyers Road American Oak Aged 12 Years (46.2% ABV, Single Malt, 12yo, Tasmania, Australia, $260AUD)
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Colour: Light golden sunset.

Nose: Bubblegum and Juicyfruit, orange oil, oaked passionfruit

Palate: Follows the nose, with big citrus oil notes, passionfruit, chocolate orange, hints of cinnamon, strawberries and a slight savoury note.

Finish: Long, with a lovely citrus zest that lingers.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 89/100 (Martin). Complex and tasting - wonderful to see how far the spirit has come over the years.

It was great to revisit the distillery that I kicked off this blog with all those years ago, and even better to see the spirit come so far in that time. Thanks Mark for the intro and David for the generous samples.

Cheers,

Martin.

An unforgettable Tassie trip to taste the oldest ever Australian Whiskies [Tasted #700 - 701]

Recently I was one of a fortunate few invited by Sullivans Cove to visit the distillery for the launch of the oldest ever Australian whiskies - the new 25 Year Old single cask Sullivans Coves we announced recently. 

This not really being the sort of thing you say "no" to, I found myself on a Wednesday night heading down to Hobart (staying at the incredibly unique "story-telling" Macq01 hotel, appropriately situated next to Sullivans Cove - the Cove, not the distillery) ahead of the main event on Thursday evening - having just visited 2 weeks earlier on a personal trip, my first time in Tasmania since 2008!

Held at the stunningly renovated distillery in Cambridge, the event brought together makers, writers, whisky lovers and fans of craft and quality for an in-depth discussion into Australian whisky, Sullivans Cove, whisky production, flavour, ingredients, chemistry, the industry, and everything in-between. 

Kicking off with a welcome highball and canapés, guests chatted in the distillery's bar before heading into the private tasting room where our host for the evening was Distillery Manager Heather Tillot (who better than the person responsible for the spirit being produced today, nearing 10 years with the distillery?)

For the next few hours Heather covered all aspects of Sullivans Cove - it's history, future, production nuances, spirit character, and with guests including wine writers and chefs, the questions were varied, considered and prompted fascinating discussion, all with a trio of single cask Sullivans Coves in-hand (the 18yo French Oak from a refill cask, full maturating, was a particular highlight for me).

After a while though, it was time to grab a glass and head into the distillery for a tour, where the discussion continued over a walk through of the mashing, fermenting and distilling processes.

 

Back in our seats, it was time for the main reason we were all gathered - to taste the pair of 25 Year Olds. 

Thoughtfully prepared in two different glass types (a 1920s Blender's Glass for HH0010, alongside a Riedel Veritas for HH0056, with Glencairns on the side should we wish to compare), each dram was accompanied by details on each bottling, as follows:

• Cask HH0010 - 25 Year Old Refill American Oak (300L). 12/10/1999 - 6/5/2025. 47.8% ABV, 349 bottles, $4,500AUD (by ballot or via The Whisky Club.

• Cask HH0056 - 25 Year Old American Oak ex-Bourbon (200L). 16/11/1999 - 6/5/2025. 47.6% ABV. 134 bottles. $4,500AUD (by invitation only) 

Sullivans Cove 25 Year Old American Oak Ex-Bourbon (Cask HH0056) (47.6% ABV, Single Malt, 25yo, 1 of 134 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $4,500AUD)
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Colour: Medium orange golden.

Nose: Citrus / orange oil, with an undertone of dunnage warehouse "funk" (in a good way). Maple syrup, coconut oak, and vanilla milk chocolate.

Palate: Initially, big funky warehouse notes. I'm immediately reminded of the Aussie whiskies I remember tasting back in 2008, 2009. There's a toasted, bread note too, apricot and more citrus. After a good 20-30min, other notes emerge as the aforementioned notes recede into the background - aged oranges, berries, fruit spice, and even some hints of passionfruit.

Finish: Follows the palate faithfully, long and moreish, with tropical hints at the very end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100 (Martin). The years have done wonders for this whisky - it's clearly Australian, but with complexity and nuance you don't often see.

Sullivans Cove 25 Year Old American Oak Refill (Cask HH0010) (47.8% ABV, Single Malt, 25yo, 1 of 349 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $4,500AUD)
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Colour: Deep orange.

Nose: Slight warehouse funk, but more stone fruits, earthiness, and orange peels. After time, more citrus emerges - mandarin and tangerine. 

Palate: Mango, spice and just a hint of old, well-rested oak. Rich and viscous, the age and complexity is clearly evident. The slight earthiness from the nose carries through to the palate, and works well in harmony with the other notes.

Finish: Also follows the palate well, equally long, with delightful tropical hints at the very end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). Less "overtly Australian" than the HH0056, but every bit as complex and delicious. When this cask was laid down in 1999, 25 years clearly wasn't the goal, but I'm very glad that's how things turned out!

 

With the main event over, it was time to head to the bar to taste some of the many Sullivans Cove releases released over the previous years, that I'd missed out on trying due to living overseas. That included last year's 24 year old (closer in style to HH0056 I found, but with more dried fruit from the Apera maturation), the "dumpy" 21 (delightful), an LMDW Indie and more.

A huge thanks to the distillery for allowing us to be part of this momentous occasion in Australian whisky.

Cheers,

Martin.

TimeforWhisky.com flew to and stayed in Hobart courtesy of Sullivans Cove. 

Ardbeg Anthology 15 Year Old “The Beithir’s Tale” and the Anthology Series (Tasted #697 - #699)

There’s something about Ardbeg that always manages to capture the imagination. For a distillery that spent much of the 1980s and ’90s mothballed or only partly operational, it’s remarkable how firmly it has established itself as a cult Islay favourite since its revival in 1997. From the release of the mighty Uigeadail in 2003, to annual Ardbeg Day bottlings like Grooves and Drum, to more recent crowd-pleasers like An Oa, there’s always been an energy and playfulness around Ardbeg that matches its whisky’s intensity.

It’s also a distillery with a knack for experimentation. From its iconic pagoda-roofed kiln of a bygone era, to unusual cask finishes, and quirky Committee releases like Alligator and Supernova, Ardbeg have always kept Ardbeggians and fans alike guessing. But behind all the different Ardbeg releases, lies one of the most distinctive spirit characters, medicinal, maritime, oily, and unapologetically peaty. Which is why whenever Ardbeg steps into new cask territory, it’s always fascinating to see how that core DNA holds up — and what new dimensions emerge.

The Anthology Collection, introduced in 2023, set out to explore a “sweeter” side of Ardbeg through three different cask experiments, each inspired by a mythical beast. Having now tasted the full trilogy, it’s clear that each release plays with the smoke-sweetness balance in very different ways. The Harpy’s Tale (13yo, ex-Bourbon and Sauternes) turned out to be the brightest and most elegant, with honeyed apricot sweetness tussling against oily smoke — my pick of the series. The Unicorn’s Tale (14yo, ex-Bourbon and Madeira) veered into sharper, baked-fruit territory, with lime and peach syrup layered over smoke and spice. And finally, the Beithir’s Tale (15yo, bespoke “designer” bourbon casks) felt like the most experimental of the three — vanilla, caramel, and toasted oak richness dialled up over earthy peat.

All bottled at 46% ABV, non-chill filtered, and adorned with mythical artwork, the Anthology Collection offers three distinct answers to the question: what happens when you let Ardbeg dance with sweetness?

Ardbeg 13 Year Old “The Harpy's Tale” (46% ABV, 13 Years Old, Islay, Scotland, A$240)

The first in the Anthology Collection, The Harpy’s Tale takes classic Ardbeg smoke and weaves it through the lush sweetness of Sauternes wine casks. On paper, the combination feels almost mythical — and in the glass, it doesn’t disappoint. This is a dram that flits between light and dark, sweet and savoury, all while staying unmistakably Ardbeg.

Nose: Immediately oily and herbaceous, with a salty coastal edge — brine and seaweed against the glass. Then comes a fragrant sweetness: lemon peel, honey lozenges, apricots, even a perfumed lift like dried sage leaves on a bonfire. There’s smoke here, but it’s more wispy and perfumed than the full blast you’d expect from Ten or Uigeadail.

Palate: The first sip is a little surprising — grilled capsicum and wood ash lead the charge, before that honey-lemon lozenge sweetness comes surging back through. Layers of treacle and balsamic richness develop (without the sharp acidity), interplaying with drifting bonfire smoke. It’s savoury and sweet in equal measure, with eucalyptus and charred oak lingering towards the back, dusted with peppery spice.

Finish: Long and lingering, with the embers of a fading bonfire and a persistent spiced warmth that keeps drawing you back for another sip. This is my favourite of the collection.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

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Ardbeg 14 Year Old “The Unicorn's Tale” (46% ABV, 14 Years Old, Islay, Scotland, A$250)

The second chapter in the Anthology Collection, The Unicorn’s Tale, takes Ardbeg’s smoky DNA and pairs it with Madeira wine casks. Where the Harpy’s Tale offered a honeyed brightness from Sauternes, the Unicorn leans into a baked-fruit richness — sharper, nuttier, and just that little bit wilder. It feels like Ardbeg experimenting with sweetness once again, but from a very different angle.

Nose: Immediately rich and fruity — ripe bananas, even those nostalgic banana lollies, mixed with cinnamon scrolls and sweet wooden smoke. There’s depth too, with treacle and peanut brittle sweetness, underpinned by citrus zest and flashes of tropical guava. The peat is there, but it sits like smoke drifting through a sweet bakery window.

Palate: A surprisingly sweet and zesty arrival. Lime cordial and peach syrup coat the tongue, before warming spices of nutmeg roll in alongside vanilla slice and caramel squares. A sweet, woody undertone keeps the balance, while the spirit feels mouth-coating and almost oily. The smoke builds as it develops, wrapping the sweetness in a gentle haze of bonfire.

Finish: Long and lingering, with smoky citrus peel, plenty of ash, and a cool wave of menthol running through the aftertaste.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Hendy)

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Ardbeg 15 Year Old “The Beithir’s Tale” (46% ABV, 15 Years Old, Islay, Scotland, A$255)

Arguably, the most experimental of the three. The final chapter in the Anthology Collection, The Beithir’s Tale, may just be the boldest of the three. Instead of wine finishes, Ardbeg chose to explore the limits of oak itself, working with bespoke “designer” bourbon casks — air-seasoned, heavily toasted, and lightly charred to specification. Where the Ten shows what classic bourbon casks usually bring to Ardbeg, the Beithir dials it all up a notch: richer vanilla, deeper spice, and toasted sweetness, all mixed with that unmistakable peaty backbone.

Nose: Rich and complex, opening with creme brulee and burnt sugar before a rush of menthol and eucalyptus. Pine needles and fennel add a fresh, herbal edge, while the peat smoke lurks quietly underneath. With time, baked apple pie and sultanas emerge, lending a sweet-fruited counterpoint.

Palate: Zesty and earthy on the palate, quickly becoming richer as blackcurrants, vanilla, and caramel slices coat the palate. The peat smoke undercurrent keeps everything anchored, while layers of citrus (mandarins in particular), black pepper, and a touch of liquorice add depth. It’s mouth-coating and satisfying, striking a balance between sweet oak influence and smoky savouriness.

Finish: Long and defined, leaving smoky embers, liquorice, and lingering spice. A dram that slowly fades.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Hendy)

The Beithir’s Tale feels like the boldest of the three Anthology releases — less about wine finishes, more about cask innovation and the pure interplay between Ardbeg’s spirit and oak. If the Ten is the soul of Ardbeg and Uigeadail its sherried alter-ego, the Anthology series are experimental short stories — each exploring “what if?” scenarios with wood.

The Ardbeg 15 Year Old “The Beithir’s Tale” will be available in Australia from August 26th through the Ardbeg Committee.

Many thanks to the Ardbeg Australia Team for gifting us the new Ardbeg Anthology limited releases.

Cheers,

Hendy

Benriach 2013 Triple Sherry Cask / Easter Treats [Tasted #695]

I've always had a soft spot for Benriach. From their creative use of casks to their mix of peated and unpeated styles, they’ve always stood out as a distillery.

We’ve followed Benriach’s journey for years—through revivals, reinventions, and releases that surprise and delight the whisky faithful. From the distillery’s humble beginnings in 1897 under John Duff, to its dormancy post-Pattison crash and its spectacular rebirth under Billy Walker in 2004, Benriach has always carved its own path.

This Speyside distillery has long been known for its eclectic cask use, malting traditions, and its spirit of experimentation. Under the creative guidance of Master Blender Dr Rachel Barrie, the past few years have seen Benriach embrace that innovation with bold new expressions like The Smoky Ten, Malting Season, and The Twenty One—a favourite of mine for its complex peated/unpeated balance and four-cask harmony.

This year, Benriach is bringing something a little special to Aussie whisky lovers, teaming up with KOI Dessert Bar and The Whisky Club to create two Easter indulgences. One for the dessert lovers, one for the whisky drinkers (or, both!).

KOI Dessert Bar has reimagined the classic hot cross bun into something far more decadent (or rather bougie and sweet :)) – the “Scotch Cross Bun.” This Easter-only treat is made with rich vanilla mousse and whisky-soaked currants, featuring Benriach’s The Original Ten as its boozy backbone. Available in KOI stores across Sydney and Melbourne from 11 April, it’s the kind of thing that pairs perfectly with a good dram – or two.

And speaking of drams, the Benriach 2013 Triple Sherry Cask is a one-off vintage crafted exclusively for The Whisky Club by Master Blender Dr Rachel Barrie. This Speyside gem has been matured in a trio of PX and Oloroso sherry casks, offering a bold, rich and dessert-like profile.

The cask story here is a clever one—a triple sherry cask maturation that brings together:

1. A full maturation in Oloroso sherry casks,
2. A whisky that was first matured in ex-Bourbon casks and then spent five years in Oloroso,
3. And another parcel that began in ex-Bourbon, then rested for four years in PX sherry casks.

Each component brings its own personality to the mix—nutty dryness from the Oloroso, syrupy richness and dried fruit from the PX, and a core of honeyed vanilla from the ex-Bourbon.

As Dr Rachel Barrie puts it:

“You might find a cherry and chocolate torte… then into lovely almond, orange and deep tiramisu. And that is served with a delicious macchiato. So very rich, multi-layered, but still delicate. And that’s the beauty of Benriach.”

I had the chance to sit down with the Triple Sherry Cask, and it didn’t disappoint. It's a sherry bomb, on the nose, it’s fruit cake, rum and raisins, rich caramel and creamy tiramisu. The palate is rich, syrupy, follows through with tiramisu cake, cream puff, and some nutmeg and warming ginger spice.

The 2013 Triple Sherry Cask is a fantastic example of what the Benriach distillery does so well: bold flavour, clever cask work, and loads of character. Along with KOI’s Scotch Cross Bun and you’ve got the ultimate Easter indulgence.

Benriach 2013 Triple Sherry Cask [Whisky Club Bottling] (48.4% ABV, Speyside, Scotland, A$125)

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Nose: Fruit cake, rum and raisins, and a rich wave of caramel. There’s creamy tiramisu in there too, along with a hint of cherry—like a boozy dessert platter fresh from the kitchen.

Palate: It's a sherry bomb, all indulgences and very rich. Tiramisu cake, rum and raisin, cream puffs, a sprinkle of nutmeg, and a warming hit of ginger spice. It’s very decadent and rich, with chocolate shavings, sweet date, and a slight tartness to balance things out.

Finish: Long, smooth, and warming. The ginger spice lingers beautifully, carrying the sweetness through to the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Hendy) 

Whether you’re after a unique whisky to sip on over the long weekend or just looking for something to pair with your Easter sweets, this is one release that hits the mark.

Cheers
Hendy