Showing posts with label single malt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label single malt. Show all posts

Tuesday, 3 February 2026

Tasted #705: Indri Agneya Single Malt Indian Whisky

It's hard to believe it's been 11 years this year, but in 2015 I visited Amrut Distillery for what was (still, to this day) the most in-depth distillery tour I've ever taken. Over many hours I got an incredibly in-depth look into every facet of Amrut's production, directly from the man responsible for making "Indian Single Malt" a thing, Surrinder Kumar.

In 2019 Surrinder however moved to Piccadily Agro Industries Limited, and subsequently launched what is now India's #1 selling single malt, Indri. We've featured Indri a few times on the blog, praising both their "Trini" in 2022 and Diwali Collector's Edition & Founder's Reserve last year. When Piccadily reached out offering a bottle of their latest "Agneya", matured in a mix of ex-Sherry and ex-Bourbon casks, I wasn't about to say no!

  

Derived from the Sanskrit word meaning “belonging to fire", Agneya is said to be a lightly-peated dram, non-chill filtered and with no added colour.

So without further ado...


Indria "Agneya" (46% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, Haryana, India, $104.99AUD, £46.25)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Golden copper

Nose: Dried fig, raisins and a big hit of ginger. There are subtle hints of smoke (woodfired / BBQ smoke), along with some oak, spice and a little varnish. Quite a bit going on!

Palate: Stays true to the nose, with more chocolate, a little floral hint, some banana, woodsmoke & burnt orange peel

Finish: Long, with residual subtle woodfire smoke, salted chocolate and soft warming spices.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). Another great dram from Indri.




Cheers,
Martin.

Friday, 23 January 2026

Hellyers Road Aged 22 Years, 21 Years & 12 Years (Tasted #702 - 704)

Happy New Year! Hope you all managed to get some downtime over the holiday period (hopefully with a dram or two in hand).

We're back into it for 2026, kicking off where we left off, with a few more Australian whiskies...

My two trips to Tassie last year (after a 17 year absence) gave me a great opportunity to get back into the Aussie whisky scene I’d been away from for so long - to try a bunch of new distilleries, rediscover old ones, and to connect and re-connect with some great whisky folk in Tassie.

One of those people was Mark from Whisky is my Jam - arguably one of the most knowledgable, passionate and connected people in all of Tasmanian whisky, and also a genuinely great bloke.

On a few occasions Mark took me through a range of Tassie whiskies - some I was experiencing for the first time, and some I hadn't tried in over a decade. In the latter camp was Hellyers Road, which in a "full circle" kind of moment was actually the very first two whiskies I ever wrote about on this blog (over 13 years ago)!

Mark put me in touch with David from Sales & Promotions at the distillery (someone I'd been following on IG for years), who was kind enough to send me a few well-aged samples to re-acquaint myself further. Included were:
Let's dig in...

 


Hellyers Road American Oak Aged 22 Years (Cask #2325.03) (56.5% ABV, Single Malt, 22yo, 1 of 80 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $1,450AUD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Amber sunset.

Nose: Big and complex - orange / citrus notes and perfume, with some slight hints of peach, treacle and oak.

Palate: Immediate zesty orange peel, followed up by whole orange slices. Some oak spice & marmalade, ginger, and a slight grassy herbaceousness. It's complex, and it all works well. 

Finish: Long, marmalade, stone fruits.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). 




Hellyers Road Peated Cask Finish Aged 21 Years (Cask #20F05C01) (52.5% ABV, Single Malt, 21yo, 1 of 301 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $1,350AUD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Golden sunset

Nose: Keeps the citrus oil and perfume of the 22yo, but with a subtle underlying campfire note, and more tropical notes (passionfruit mostly).

Palate: The peat smoke is more pronounced on the palate, but the passionfruit and oranges (whole) are there too, in perfect harmony.

Finish: Residual BBQ smoky meatiness, with some final orange zest. Long and lingering.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). Peated cask finishes sometimes don't work too well, but I'm glad to say in this case it works very nicely.
 


Hellyers Road American Oak Aged 12 Years (46.2% ABV, Single Malt, 12yo, Tasmania, Australia, $260AUD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Light golden sunset.

Nose: Bubblegum and Juicyfruit, orange oil, oaked passionfruit

Palate: Follows the nose, with big citrus oil notes, passionfruit, chocolate orange, hints of cinnamon, strawberries and a slight savoury note.

Finish: Long, with a lovely citrus zest that lingers.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 89/100 (Martin). Complex and tasting - wonderful to see how far the spirit has come over the years.



It was great to revisit the distillery that I kicked off this blog with all those years ago, and even better to see the spirit come so far in that time. Thanks Mark for the intro and David for the generous samples.

Cheers,
Martin.

Thursday, 6 November 2025

An unforgettable Tassie trip to taste the oldest ever Australian Whiskies [Tasted #700 - 701]

Recently I was one of a fortunate few invited by Sullivans Cove to visit the distillery for the launch of the oldest ever Australian whiskies - the new 25 Year Old single cask Sullivans Coves we announced recently

This not really being the sort of thing you say "no" to, I found myself on a Wednesday night heading down to Hobart (staying at the incredibly unique "story-telling" Macq01 hotel, appropriately situated next to Sullivans Cove - the Cove, not the distillery) ahead of the main event on Thursday evening - having just visited 2 weeks earlier on a personal trip, my first time in Tasmania since 2008!

Held at the stunningly renovated distillery in Cambridge, the event brought together makers, writers, whisky lovers and fans of craft and quality for an in-depth discussion into Australian whisky, Sullivans Cove, whisky production, flavour, ingredients, chemistry, the industry, and everything in-between. 


Kicking off with a welcome highball and canapés, guests chatted in the distillery's bar before heading into the private tasting room where our host for the evening was Distillery Manager Heather Tillot (who better than the person responsible for the spirit being produced today, nearing 10 years with the distillery?)


For the next few hours Heather covered all aspects of Sullivans Cove - it's history, future, production nuances, spirit character, and with guests including wine writers and chefs, the questions were varied, considered and prompted fascinating discussion, all with a trio of single cask Sullivans Coves in-hand (the 18yo French Oak from a refill cask, full maturating, was a particular highlight for me).

After a while though, it was time to grab a glass and head into the distillery for a tour, where the discussion continued over a walk through of the mashing, fermenting and distilling processes.


 

Back in our seats, it was time for the main reason we were all gathered - to taste the pair of 25 Year Olds. 


Thoughtfully prepared in two different glass types (a 1920s Blender's Glass for HH0010, alongside a Riedel Veritas for HH0056, with Glencairns on the side should we wish to compare), each dram was accompanied by details on each bottling, as follows:
  • Cask HH0010 - 25 Year Old Refill American Oak (300L). 12/10/1999 - 6/5/2025. 47.8% ABV, 349 bottles, $4,500AUD (by ballot or via The Whisky Club.
  • Cask HH0056 - 25 Year Old American Oak ex-Bourbon (200L). 16/11/1999 - 6/5/2025. 47.6% ABV. 134 bottles. $4,500AUD (by invitation only) 



Sullivans Cove 25 Year Old American Oak Ex-Bourbon (Cask HH0056) (47.6% ABV, Single Malt, 25yo, 1 of 134 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $4,500AUD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Colour: Medium orange golden.

Nose: Citrus / orange oil, with an undertone of dunnage warehouse "funk" (in a good way). Maple syrup, coconut oak, and vanilla milk chocolate.

Palate: Initially, big funky warehouse notes. I'm immediately reminded of the Aussie whiskies I remember tasting back in 2008, 2009. There's a toasted, bread note too, apricot and more citrus. After a good 20-30min, other notes emerge as the aforementioned notes recede into the background - aged oranges, berries, fruit spice, and even some hints of passionfruit.

Finish: Follows the palate faithfully, long and moreish, with tropical hints at the very end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100 (Martin). The years have done wonders for this whisky - it's clearly Australian, but with complexity and nuance you don't often see.



Sullivans Cove 25 Year Old American Oak Refill (Cask HH0010) (47.8% ABV, Single Malt, 25yo, 1 of 349 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $4,500AUD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Colour: Deep orange.

Nose: Slight warehouse funk, but more stone fruits, earthiness, and orange peels. After time, more citrus emerges - mandarin and tangerine. 

Palate: Mango, spice and just a hint of old, well-rested oak. Rich and viscous, the age and complexity is clearly evident. The slight earthiness from the nose carries through to the palate, and works well in harmony with the other notes.

Finish: Also follows the palate well, equally long, with delightful tropical hints at the very end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). Less "overtly Australian" than the HH0056, but every bit as complex and delicious. When this cask was laid down in 1999, 25 years clearly wasn't the goal, but I'm very glad that's how things turned out!

 


With the main event over, it was time to head to the bar to taste some of the many Sullivans Cove releases released over the previous years, that I'd missed out on trying due to living overseas. That included last year's 24 year old (closer in style to HH0056 I found, but with more dried fruit from the Apera maturation), the "dumpy" 21 (delightful), an LMDW Indie and more.




A huge thanks to the distillery for allowing us to be part of this momentous occasion in Australian whisky.

Cheers,
Martin.

TimeforWhisky.com flew to and stayed in Hobart courtesy of Sullivans Cove. 

Saturday, 15 February 2025

Benromach Contrasts range - Unpeated and Virgin Oak [Tasted #693 - 694]

We've been pretty fortunate here at TimeforWhisky to try some old and incredibly rare Benromach releases over the years. The last we tried was a 46yo single cask from 1972 (one of only 75 bottles) and the one before that a 41yo single cask from 1974. One thing we found with each of these was that they were incredibly delicious, well-made whisky, bottled at just the right time.

The thing is, "delicious" and "well-made" seems to be something that applies across the Benromach range, right down to the entry level 10 Year Old. I've referred to Benromach as a distillery who just make incredibly good, honest whisky, and I still stand by that today.

...which brings us to the "Contrasts" range, aiming to present a different (or Contrasting) view of Benromach, via a core range consisting of "Peat Smoke" and "Organic" , and a number of "Guest Contrasts" including the two we're tasting today - "Virgin Oak" (10yo and fully-matured in Virgin American Oak casks) and "Unpeated" (9yo and matured in a mix of ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry casks).



Benromach Contrasts Unpeated (46% ABV, Single Malt, 9yo, Speyside, Scotland)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Colour: Light gold

Nose: Light, with hints of heather, oatcakes, pear, stewed fruits and just a lovely classic fruity Speyside nose.

Palate: Consistent with the nose, with a touch of herbaceousness, dried apricot, red apple and some salted caramel.

Finish: Floral and lifted, with some ginger notes through to the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 88/100 (Martin)



Benromach Contrasts Virgin Oak (46% ABV, Single Malt, 10yo, Speyside, Scotland)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Colour: Orange gold.

Nose: Oak and citrus spice, with some banana chips and bacon.

Palate: Sweet, less spiced than the nose suggests, more herbal and savoury, with some hints of smoked oranges.

Finish: Butter Menthol lozenges and mature oak.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin)


Cheers,
Martin.

Wednesday, 27 November 2024

The Macallan TIME : SPACE Launch [Tasted: #684]

Last week, Martin and I had the pleasure of attending events for The Macallan TIME:SPACE Collection in both Hong Kong and Sydney, as a celebration of the distillery’s 200th anniversary. The events took us on a journey through The Macallan’s storied past, from founder Alexander Reid’s dedication to quality in 1824 to the wartime ingenuity that shaped its legacy.

The Sydney launch event featured tastings of Macallan’s Classic Cut and 18yo expressions, two drams that beautifully reflect the distillery’s artistry. The Classic Cut 2023, bottled at 50.3% ABV, showcased vibrant notes of orchard fruits, elderflower, and citrus with hints of almond biscotti and toasted oak. Meanwhile, the 18yo Sherry Oak has rich layers of dried fruit, spice, and chocolate, a classic Macallan.

At the heart of the celebration was the unveiling of TIME : SPACE, a dual-chambered vessel housing two extraordinary whiskies. The 1940 Vintage, aged an astonishing 84 years, matured in meticulously selected sherry casks. Representing the future, the 2018 Vintage is a youthful 5-year-old whisky, marking the first distillate from Macallan’s state-of-the-art distillery.

Also revealed was TIME : SPACE Mastery, a stunning single malt created from 14 exceptional cask types. This whisky delivers rich layers of dates, pineapple, and coffee, all while retaining Macallan’s signature elegance. Presented in a circular bottle symbolising the cycle of time, the red case, complete with 200 spikes, is a bold celebration of the distillery’s bicentennial milestone.

With only 200 units of TIME : SPACE dual-chambered bottle available globally, the TIME : SPACE Mastery is the more accessible of the two (priced at $2,700 and arriving in Australia in November 2024, with the exact number of bottles produced not disclosed). The TIME : SPACE Collection is more than a celebration of the past—it’s a toast to the future of The Macallan's whisky mastery. 

Having both recently sampled the TIME : SPACE Mastery, here are our thoughts:


The Macallan TIME : SPACE Mastery (43.6% ABV, Speyside, Scotland, A$2,700 / $11,000HKD)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Colour: Rich honey gold.

Nose (Hendy): A captivating aroma unfolds with a gentle musky scent, with a mix of ripe summer fruits—peaches and apricots—balanced by the sweetness of dates, figs and dried fruits. Subtle notes of chocolate with sweet oak.

Nose (Martin): There's a maturity here that (despite its years) you don't find on the 18yo. Not to the same extent anyway. Deep rich zesty coffee notes follow, rich honey notes, with some underlying milk chocolate and ginger. If you look hard enough, slight hints of tropical stone fruits (peaches mostly) appear.


Palate (Hendy): The palate opens up with soft ginger spices, offering a delicate palate with a touch of gunpowder before giving way to layers of citrus, oranges and honey bring a level of sweetness, with sweet oak at the end.

Palate (Martin): Viscous and mouth-filling, with notes of mature oak, a slightly earthiness (which increases over time), some orange zest, dates, maple syrup, ginger and caramel. It doesn't feel like 43% in the mouth - I'd say closer to 46-48%. Power and finesse here.  


Finish (Hendy): Long and lingering, with a gentle, soft spice and fading into notes of vanilla. It was a good Macallan.

Finish (Martin): Long, quite drying, with hints of oak, some BBQ pineapple, Oranges and residual peach notes.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 
93/100 (Hendy) 
92/100 (Martin)

Martin's final comments: Having also tried this side-by-side with the 2023 18yo Sherry Oak, I can confidently say it stands well above as a much more rich, viscous, sherried dram with significantly more complexity. It also has those hints of tropical notes shining through which you just don't get on the 18yo (Lead Whisky Maker Euan Kennedy, who presented our tasting, said he finds the tropical notes tend to come through at around 20 years of age). That said, whether the increased complexity and richness (and admittedly, very cool bottle design) justifies the price jump over the 18yo is a personal decision everyone will have to make for themselves...



Here’s to the next 200 years of Macallan.


Cheers,
Hendy.

Thursday, 14 November 2024

Halcyon Spirits 17yo Single Cask 2007 Caol Ila [Tasted #683]

You may have have seen us cover a few releases from recently-established Scottish-based Independent Bottler Halcyon Spirits over the past 12 or so months. After bursting onto the scene mid-2023 with a 30yo Macallan, followed by a 32yo Auchentoshan, 30yo Clynelish & 27yo Burnside, they've now ventured over to Islay with their first peated release - a 17yo single cask Caol Ila from 2007.

I've been saying for a long time now that (in my opinion) Caol Ila is one of the most versatile Scotch whiskies out there. It can be fantastic young, middle-aged or long-aged, it's great from both Sherry and Bourbon casks, it works well in highballs (try it with lemon peel), cocktails and neat, and it's absolutely magic, magic stuff from the early 1980s.

I remember drinking a lot of 2007, 2008 Caol Ila single casks about 6-7 years ago (at the time around 10yo), and many of them were excellent, so I was excited to try one with a bit more age on it...



Halcyon Spirits "Halcyon Release #5" Caol Ila Aged 17 Years (56% ABV, Single Malt, 17yo, 1 of 273 bottles, Scotland, £150)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Amber gold

Nose: Ashy, meaty BBQ at first, but with unmistakeable Caol Ila DNA underneath. Rich smoke, a slightly oak dustiness. After time, a subtle hint of meaty sulphur (in a good way).

Palate: Follows the nose, with some added sweet honey/maple notes, yet still plenty of smoked meat. It's soft, yet carries power and persistence. There's some hoisin sauce and glazed BBQ duck, and subtle, underlying hints of that trademark Caol Ila lemon-y note.

Finish: Long, soft smoke with a slightly sweet BBQ / lemon finish.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). Exactly what I hoped for - balanced, complex, delicious. For the price? Excellent value (especially for those in HK benefiting from the recently-reduced taxes).


Thanks to Halcyon for sending us the sample for this review.

Cheers,
Martin.

Wednesday, 13 November 2024

Gordon & MacPhail Recollection Series #3: 1984 Convalmore, 1981 North Port & 1991 Rosebank [Tasted #680 - 682]

A look back over our Gordon & MacPhail-tagged posts shows it's been a pretty great past few years when it comes to trying incredibly long-aged, well-matured whiskies here at TimeforWhisky.com. In addition to one-off bottlings in the the 60 Year Old, 70 Year Old and even 80 Year Old age ranges, we've also been introduced to "The Recollection Series" of whiskies - #1 in 2022, #2 in 2023 and now, hot off the press, comes Series #3.

These series feature single malts originating from closed, or long-time silent distilleries, with spirit matured in bespoke asks commissioned by G&M. 

Series #1 and #2 saw us taste some incredible drams like Glen Mhor from 1973 and 1982, 1982 St Magdalene, 1981 Port Ellen & 1981 Lochside, so whatever was in store for Series #3, we knew it would be good.

...and we weren't wrong. With 6 expressions this time around, the series is a little smaller, but no less impressive, featuring:
  • Rosebank 1991 – RRP £2,100
  • Glenlochy 1979 – RRP £4,000
  • Convalmore 1984 – RRP £2,300
  • Imperial 1990 – RRP £1,650
  • North Port 1981 – RRP £3,850
  • Port Ellen 1981 – RRP £10,000

Featuring eye-catching, bold new packaging, G&M calls the whiskies ‘forgotten masterpieces’ and ‘lost works of art’, with the distilleries’ spirit revived using stunning illustrations from Emmy-award winning artist, Bruno Mangyoku

Stuart Urquhart, Operations Director at Gordon & MacPhail, said: 
“This year marks our third Recollection Series, which again brings a carefully chosen selection of rare and unique whiskies to enthusiasts worldwide. We’re fortunate enough to have access to a liquid library which is testament to the relationships we’ve nurtured with whisky distillers for almost 130 years.

We’re proud to be able to revive the spirit of these historic distilleries, bringing their stories back into the present day.”  


Gordon & MacPhail "The Recollection Series #3" Rosebank 1991 32yo (51.2% ABV, 32yo, First Fill Bourbon Barrel #2114, Lowland, Scotland, One of 141 bottles, £2,100)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A distillery called Rosebank was operating as early as 1817. From 1840, under the ownership of the Rankine family, Rosebank prospered, however the distillery eventually closed its doors in 1993. It was reopened under new ownership to great fanfare in 2024. This release is one of the oldest and rarest Rosebank single malts ever released.

Colour: Light sunset gold.

Nose: Light and tropical, with orange, banana and pineapple. As a kid I used to love Golden Circle Tropical Punch fruit juice, and this nose took me straight back to those primary school playground days.  It's a subtle nose though - slowly revealing itself. After time, some lemon slice shows through too.

Palate: Fruity maple syrup? There's a rose-flavoured note, and in the background (subtle) pineapple and banana. 

Finish: Mango and guava! Big time, and long. I recently tried a single cask Springbank (interestingly the same age) and it also had this hugely tropical finish 

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin).
The highest score I've ever given to a Rosebank? Probably. Feels like it's the best I've tried.



Gordon & MacPhail "The Recollection Series #3" North Port 1981 42yo (50.9% ABV, 42yo, Refill American Hogshead #2072, Highland, Scotland, One of 132 bottles, £3,850)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Single malts featuring the distillery’s original name, Brechin Distillery, are vanishingly rare. Founded in 1820 near Scotland’s east coast by three brothers, David, John and Alexander Guthrie, the distillery stood half a mile from the River Esk. It remained in family ownership for over a century, renamed North Port Distillery, before new owners closed its doors in 1928. It reopened after the Second World War only to fall silent again in 1983, with the site demolished in 1994. 

Colour: Light amber gold

Nose: Instantly, that well-matured, balanced, incredibly complex nose that shines through on so many of these older G&M releases. There's oak, there's fresh fruit (orchard fruits, peaches, apples) with slightly tropical undertones, nuttiness, fresh pear, and (with a drop of water) some pineapple, apricot and more peach.

Palate: Follows the nose just beautifully, with the oak and fruit in perfect harmony, alongside some gingerbread, mandarin, apricot and graceful oak.

Finish: Very, very long, with a slightly drying oak note and (after a drop of water), some peach.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100 (Martin).
Now THIS is whisky. Just a beautiful dram.



Gordon & MacPhail "The Recollection Series #3" Convalmore 1984 39yo (51.1% ABV, 39yo, Refill Sherry Hogshead #1733, Speyside, Scotland, One of 108 bottles, £2,300)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Opened as the fourth of Dufftown’s famed seven stills in the heart of Speyside in 1894, Convalmore’s waxy, fruity spirit has very rarely been seen as a single malt whisky. Dedicated almost entirely to blended whiskies, production was interrupted in 1909 by a fire. The distillery expanded in 1964 but was mothballed in 1985. The original buildings are still on the site but the production equipment has been removed. 

Colour: Rich mahogany.

Nose: Muted at first, but after some time it turns into a rich and elegant display of mocha, leather, fresh berries, berry compote and toffee.

Palate: Mature oak with noticeable, but not overpowering sherry notes. Flamed orange zest, black forrest cake, sherry-soaked cherries, cigar humidor, milk coffee and to round things out, hints of dried apricot.

Finish: Long, balanced oak with citrus hints.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin).
My love for Convalmore continues.



For more information on Gordon & MacPhail or the Recollection series, visit www.gordonandmacphail.com.

Many thanks again to G&M who kindly provided the tasting of these three beautiful single malts, and & Weber Shandwick for the arrangement.

Cheers,
Martin.

Friday, 9 August 2024

Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" - Bruichladdich 31yo, Arran 24yo & Glenburgie 24yo [Tasted #674 - 676]

Whisky and art collaborations are nothing new - we've seen everything from Macallan's "Masters of Photography" series, to Glenfiiddich's "Arists in Residence" program, to Glenmorangie's more recent efforts with Azuma Makoto. My view of these has always been the same - they can be fun, sure, and when the collaboration "fits", even great, but fundamentally the underlying whisky has to be good. At the end of the day, you can't drink art!

Thankfully, Cask88's latest collaboration with Britain's legendary illustrator Ralph Steadman not only brings the fun & feels like it "fits", it also involves some fantastic whisky!

Dubbed the Cask 88 x Ralph Steadman Whisky Correspondence Course, the series is intended to take drinkers on a journey of Scotland's distilleries via illustrations from Ralph Steadman's 1994 memoir "Still life with Bottle: Whisky According to Ralph Steadman" adorning bottles of "exquisite, greatly aged, unique single malts from the finest distilleries in Scotland".

Starting (fittingly) with Part One, the series kicks things off with 3 single cask bottlings, available individually by the 700mL bottle or as a set of 3 x 50mL miniatures:



The team at Cask88 were kind enough to send me a miniature set for review, and I've gotta say, this is one of the most impressively designed "sample sets" I've ever seen - right down to the ink pot sample bottles. Sure, it's all about the whisky inside, but opening this certainly brought a smile to my face.



Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" Bruichladdich 31yo (50.6% ABV, 31yo, Refill Hogshead #2258, Islay, Scotland, £565$5,650HKD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Light golden sunset.

Nose: Light and fruity - grape skins, pear & peach, followed by subtle vanilla hints.

Palate: Oh now we're talking - Tropic Thunder! Passionfruit, lots of pineapple, some guava and apple. Grapefruit, vanilla & pear notes too. It's a tropical fruit basket, with perfectly balanced sweetness.

Finish: Largely follows the palate - tropical right to the end, when a cooling subtle mint note kicks in.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). Beautiful.

 


Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" Arran 24yo (44.7% ABV, 24yo, Oloroso Hogshead #1556, £565 / $4,250HKD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Rich amber gold.

Nose: Creamy strawberries & raspberries, with a spray of orange zest, and underlying chocolate hints.

Palate: In line with the nose, sweet strawberries and raspberries, then maple syrup, walnuts, peanut brittle, strawberries again (with cream this time), and more of that chocolate.

Finish: Long and full of dark chocolate and oranges, with a slightly bitter raspberry note.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). Arran around this age can be very good, and this is no exception.




Cask88 x Ralph Steadman "Whisky Correspondence Course" Glenburgie 24yo (55.2% ABV, 24yo, 1st Fill Sherry Butt #9316, £300 / $3,000HKD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Deep copper.

Nose: Funk, slight sulphur note, chocolate-coated cherries and sour gummies - something I only occasionally find on well-serried whiskies, but a note I really enjoy.

Palate: Rich, unctuous and funky. Oak, but balanced with savoury sherry notes, mature oranges, coffee beans, rooibos tea and ripe raspberries, with a slight bitterness after some air.

Finish: Long, warming coffee notes with some berries, and oak funk.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). Lots going on here, and it all works well together. Really enjoyable.

 

I have to say, I was expecting one, maybe two of these casks to be standouts, but didn't expect all 3 to be so good. All very different (fruity, moderately sherried & very sherried), but all excellent.

The Cask 88 x Ralph Steadman Whisky Correspondence Course is available directly from Cask88 in the UK, or from Dram Good Stuff in Hong Kong (pricing and links above).


Cheers,
Martin.

Monday, 5 August 2024

Starward Botrytis Cask [Tasted #673]

Before discovering Starward's latest release, the Botrytis Cask, I had never heard of Botrytis wine. A conversation with Martin revealed it's a type of dessert wine, piquing my interest to learn a bit more about this wine. Some reading into Botrytis wine unveiled fascinating details about this unique wine and how it influences Starward's new project release.

Botrytis is a type of fungus that shrivels and decays wine grapes (see below for an image of the fungus on a bunch of riesling grapes), yet is highly coveted in winemaking due to its ability to intensify sweetness and add flavour complexity. Known scientifically as Botrytis cinerea, this fungus is related to the strains used in penicillin and blue cheese. In winemaking, Botrytis dehydrates the grapes, concentrating their sugars and flavours, which makes the resulting wine richer and sweeter. This process, often referred to as 'noble rot,' creates dessert wines with unique notes of honey, beeswax, and ginger. Notable examples include France's Sauternes and Hungary's Tokaji Aszú."

Typically harvested late in the season, Botrytis wines undergo a meticulous, slow fermentation process and can age gracefully for decades. Their rarity and labour-intensive production often make them expensive and highly sought after as the grapes are often hand picked to ensure there is a balance between botrytis fruit amongst the grapes.

Now what happens when you age whisky in Botrytis wine casks? I gather that the whisky will impart the characteristics from the Botrytis wine; with added sweetness, complexity, and a perhaps a rich, multidimensional whisky. 

So this is exactly what Starward have done in their latest unveiling, the Starward Botrytis Cask, a single malt whisky, fully matured for seven years in fresh and charred casks that once held Botrytis Semillon dessert wine. It was first filled in 2017 and bottled this year. As Head Blender at Starward Jarrad Huckshold explained, he had to use both, fresh and charred Botrytis casks when creating this release The combination of two barrel finishes helped the liquid “develop the distinct dessert-like characteristics”. Jarrad added: “The fresh barrels impart those nuanced botrytis characteristics on our signature spirit; while the portion of casks that were charred offer a slightly savoury mouthfeel and balance out some of the dessert-like characteristics. This is a moreish whisky that will make an impression.” 

It is said that Botrytis casks are uncommon as they're only made in small quantities in Australia, making this release exceptionally rare for Starward. In Australia, Botrytis semillon is a notable example of this style, produced from semillon grapes affected by Botrytis cinerea. The Hunter Valley is particularly famous for its Botrytis semillon, where the warm and humid climate, morning fog, and cooler evenings create perfect conditions for the development of 'noble rot'. The Hungerford Hill Botrytis Semillon is one example, with notes of sweet apricots and marmalade, balanced with some lemon citrus, balancing the richness and finishing clean. 

Starward Botrytis Cask (48% ABV, Port Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, A$169)

The Starward Botrytis Cask, a single malt whisky, fully matured for seven years in fresh and charred casks that once held Botrytis Semillon dessert wine. Overall, it was a concoction of dessert flavours, almost resembling what I would call a Christmas whisky with the range of sweet, rich and delectable notes.

Nose: The nose opens with a rich aroma of wax honey, reminiscent of honeycomb, followed by a refreshing hint of peppermint, the smell of a lush winter morning. There’s a delectable scent of scrumptious Christmas cake, laden with dried fruits and spices, accompanied by a sweet cherry glaze. Notes of rum and raisin ice cream add a creamy, boozy undertone, while fresh apples and pears, and a medley of fruit salad, bring a lively, juicy character. Hints of burnt orange and cinnamon round out the nose, adding warmth and complexity.

Palate: On the palate, it is rich and indulgent, starting with the sweet, comforting taste of vanilla cupcakes. More of those succulent raisins and fruit bread come through, complemented by the flavour of rum-soaked bread, echoing the notes of a traditional Christmas cake from the nose that's packed with raisins. Cinnamon buns add a spicy sweetness. The chewy texture of caramel lollies adds a luscious, lasting sweetness, creating a beautifully balanced and layered experience.

FinishThe finish is exceptionally long. Glazed cherry remnants provide a sweet, fruity finish, with persistent notes of rum and raisin that carry through to the end. A subtle hint of mint gradually settles, offering a refreshing, clean conclusion.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

The Botrytis Cask is the latest addition to the illustrious lineup of project releases, adding to the previous project release expressions. Starward Botrytis Cask is a distillery-exclusive release— to get your hand on a bottle, you can enter the ballot here to secure your bottle. The ballot will be drawn on 21st August.

Thanks to the Starward team for providing a sample Botrytis Cask bottling for us to try

Cheers

Hendy

Friday, 17 May 2024

Starward Bourbon Cask #1 and #2 [Tasted #661-662]

Earlier this week Starward released their second bourbon cask release, officially dubbed, the Starward Bourbon Cask #2. This second release follows the first Bourbon Cask which was released in mid 2018 and only saw an outturn of around 1,200 bottles. For this second bourbon cask release, Starward fans alike can join Starward’s ballot system to secure an allocation. It's not known how many bottles there are in the outturn.

I was fortunate enough to join David Vitale, Starward Founder and Charlie Dyer, Starward Blender this week to sample the Bourbon Cask #2. In fact, the tasting also featured the first bourbon cask release, Starward Nova (their OG red wine cask release) as well as a sample of their wash and new make spirit to give people a sense of evolution of the liquid. It was fascinating to contrast the Bourbon Cask #2 with Bourbon Cask #1, side by side, and while they share the same ABV, they are both distinctly unique. You’ll find my tasting notes on both down the bottom but I thought it would be good to recap a bit of Starward’s history.

Time for Whisky has always been a friend of Starward, dating all the way back to early 2013 when David met Martin in Sydney while David was in Sydney to introduce the “New World Whisky Distillery;” was then renamed Starward. 2013 was also the year Starward’s first whisky was released, Solera, matured in Australian ex-Apera casks and the initial release embodied David’s vision of creating a distinct, tasty yet uniquely Australian whisky. 

Since then Starward has gone strength to strength, having attracted funding from Diego in 2015, followed by the relocation of their distillery from the old Essendon Fields to Port Melbourne in 2016, expanded their core range to include Two Fold Double Grain whisky (dubbed the everyday whisky) in 2019 and receiving numerous gold medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, underscoring the success of their approach and the quality of their products. Over the years, Starward’s spirit has also evolved, having begun with a somewhat estery profile due to  the small-scale distillation and over time, improvements in their brewing, fermentation, and distillation have led to a more balanced spirit.

Despite their growth, Starward have very much retained their unique fruit notes, in particular, the banana note. In fact, this distinct fruit profile was what David proudly attribute to what makes Starward unique, The fruity profile, in particular the banana note has been a hallmark of Starward whisky, which David has committed to retain while enhancing balance. David’s ethos has always been on how to best produce a distinctly Australian whisky that reflects the local climate, ingredients, and culture. 

Many of Starward’s releases since have been inspired by the vibrant culture and the regional influences. Starward has always had a focus on using local ingredients, including Australian malted barley and locally sourced wine barrels. In addition, Melbourne's 'four seasons in a day' climate has been said to influence the Starward whisky aging process. Allowing for faster maturation compared to traditional regions and David has termed the maturation years as the “Melbourne years”

Since the beginning, Starward's signature play was with the use of red wine barrels for aging, which added unique fruit and oak characteristics to their whisky. The use of red wine barrels has been a significant factor in creating a unique flavour profile, contributing to Starward's distinctive character.

So then, what's the fuss with the bourbon cask release?

The first Starward Bourbon Cask release, known as Starward Bourbon Cask 1, was released in mid 2018 with an outturn of 1,200 bottles. Bourbon Cask #1 was Starward's experimentation with different types of barrels to create unique whisky expressions. This release marked their venture into using ex-bourbon barrels for aging their whisky, differing from their usual practice of using red wine barrels. In fact, their first foray into bourbon cask got them to work on the second bourbon cask, almost immediately after.

The use of ex-Wild Turkey and ex-Maker Mark's bourbon casks imparted distinct flavours to the whisky, adding vanilla, caramel, and subtle spice notes. This contrasted with the fruit-forward profile typically associated with their red wine barrel-aged expressions. The whiskey retained the characteristic balance of spirit, oak, and fruit that Starward is known for, but with the added complexity from the bourbon cask influence. Overall, the first Starward Bourbon Cask release was a significant milestone for the distillery, and as such paved the way for this subsequent significant milestone for Starward, their second Bourbon Cask release.

Starward Bourbon Cask #2 has been described as an inverse to their highly awarded and signature red wine barrel maturation style. With a 52% ABV, one might think both bourbon cask releases are identical but the decision on the ABV was made to showcase the whisky as what the Blender has intended to showcase. Starward's second Bourbon Cask release sees their malt fully matured in bourbon barrels for five 'Melbourne years'. Similar to Bourbon Cask #1, Bourbon Cask #2 also saw the use of ex-Wild Turkey and ex-Maker's Mark bourbon barrels.

As Charlie Dyer, Starward Blender noted, ‘there’s nothing to hide behind with bourbon barrels’ and these casks provided the perfect, neutral canvas to let the Starward new make spirit shine. Expect all those deliciously tropical fruit notes from the fermentation process to shine through. 

It took Starward nine years to release their first Bourbon Cask in 2018, and another six years to release Bourbon Cask #2…. who knows if there will be another.

Starward Bourbon Cask #1 (52% ABV, Port Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, A$199)

The inaugural bourbon cask release has its own complexity.

Nose: The nose opens with a rich, inviting note of vanilla, followed by a more concentrated vanilla essence that adds depth and sweetness. A comforting note of cereal emerges, reminiscent of freshly milled grains. Juicy berries add a burst of fruity freshness, while the honeyed sweetness of Weet-Bix cereal blends in. A cool, refreshing hint of peppermint provides a crisp, clean finish to the nose profile.

Palate: The initial palate reveals subtle yet creamy vanilla notes, setting a smooth foundation. This is quickly joined by the tart, vibrant flavor of raspberries, which adds a lively contrast. A hint of Starward's banana note is followed by honey which introduces a tropical sweetness, complemented by pineapple notes that bring a bright, citrusy touch. Rich molasses adds a deep, caramel-like sweetness.

Finish: The finish is relatively short but leaves a lasting impression of sweet berries. The prominent tannin creates a dry, lingering sensation.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Hendy)


Starward Bourbon Cask #2 (52% ABV, Port Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, A$169)

So what was my impression of their second bourbon cask, in summary, delicious, a lot richer, flavourful and more vibrant, when compared side by side with their first bourbon cask release.

Nose: A delightful medley of aromas greets you, starting with the sweet, nutty scent of nougat and the floral, delicate notes of rosewater. Vanilla essence provides a creamy undertone, while a fresh burst of peppermint adds a cooling sensation. The herbaceous hints bring a touch of earthiness, complemented by the tropical scent of coconut shavings. Subtle whispers of raspberries and banana introduce a fruity sweetness, rounded out by the rich, caramelized aroma of grilled pineapple.

Palate: The first sip delivers a vibrant burst of mixed berries, enveloping the palate with their juicy sweetness. This is followed by a zesty Sunburst orange note that adds a refreshing citrusy twist. Black pepper provides a spicy kick, balanced by a cool hint of peppermint. The flavors evolve into a creamy strawberries and vanilla shake, offering a smooth and indulgent experience. A subtle hint of pineapple lingers, adding a final touch of tropical fruitiness.

Finish: The finish is exceptionally long, leaving a lasting impression of ripe berries and smooth vanilla. The tropical essence of coconut shavings adds a delicate, nutty sweetness, while the finish concludes with a satisfying tannin that provides a dry, lingering end, leaving you with a well-rounded, memorable taste experience.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

Given the limited edition release, Starward has opened their ballot system for everyone who's wanting to secure a bottle to register on their website. Starward fans alike can register themselves into the ballot which will be open until 2nd June

Cheers
Hendy