Glenmorangie tasting lunch with "Dr Bill" Lumsden at Sevva (Hong Kong)

Ask anyone who's met "Dr Bill" Lumsden before (even Hendy who attended the Tùsail dinner in Sydney earlier this year) and they'll tell you he's one of the funniest, nicest, down-to-earth whisky blokes you could ever meet. Knowledgable as anything, witty, friendly and always quick with an interesting story.

Luckily, I had the opportunity to meet Dr Bill at a tasting lunch in Hong Kong this week, and I can confirm they're 100% right.

Dr Bill's business card reads "Director of Distilling, Whisky Creation & Whisky Stocks", but he's more commonly known as the man behind the modern day successes of both Ardbeg and Glenmorangie, a pioneer of wood finishing, and a man who takes a highly scientific approach (putting his PHD to good use) when it comes to whisky production.

Dr Bill was very briefly in Hong Kong before embarking on a broader Asian tour, and took time to present to media and whisky fans at Hong Kong's Sevva, where he presented four Glenmorangie expression matched to five stunning courses.

The lunch was not to launch or promote any one specific Glenmorangie expression, but rather to celebrate them all, with a careful selection including Glenmorangie Original (10yo), Glenmorangie 18yo, Glenmorangie 25yo and Glenmorangie Signet. After a brief cocktail on Sevva's stunning terrace (a simple lemonade, Glenmorangie Original and ice, which was extremely welcome on a hot Hong Kong Summer's day) it was time to take our seats and hear from the good Doctor.

After first explaining the (many) giraffes placed around the room (a reflection of Glenmorangie's unique long-necked still design), Dr Bill opened with a few jokes, an insight into his drinking habits (preferring younger whiskies generally, and typically drinking Glenmorangie Original despite "being able to fill a bathtub with 25yo" if he wanted) and then introduced us to the first course and its whisky pairing - Glenmorangie "The Original" 10yo (40%).

1st Course: Double Brie Cheese, Mozzarella, toasted walnuts, pear & beetroot salad with raspberry vinaigrette.

The simple (but deliciously fresh) cheese and salad plate paired well with the 10yo Original, with the delicate floral notes of the latter pairing surprisingly well with the robust cheese and nutty flavours of the former.

Being seated right next to Bill (along with good mate Eddie of Barrel Concepts) gave us a great opportunity to chat - about Glenmorangie, Ardbeg, Ardbeg's recent space experiment, wood finishes, the popularity of Japanese whisky, ageing, barley varieties, rugby and golf. Oh, and about a little experiment Dr Bill is in the middle of, involving Ardbeg aged in Russian Oak. Although coy on the details (when asked for his thoughts on the impact Russian Oak has on the spirit, he said to ask again in 2 years), Dr Bill did suggest that the project (codenamed "Ardbeg KGB" within the distillery), could well be a future Ardbeg Day release. We've seen "Islalympics" (2012), Archaelogy (2013), Soccer World Cup (2014) and Space (2015) as themes, so can we expect to see a Russian-themed Ardbeg Day in the near future? Perhaps.

If so....you heard it here first!

Next up was the Glenmorangie 18 year old (43%), which sees ageing in ex-Bourbon casks first, with 1/3 of the whisky spending its final 3 years in Oloroso sherry casks. The "Chanel No.5" of whisky, as Dr Bill put it, with lemon, honeysuckle and (to our palate) some raisins and red grapes. 

2nd Course: Scottish smoked salmon, horseradish & pan-fried sea scallop and mango salsa

3rd Course: Ms B's Risotto: Asparagus, pumpkin, baby peas, porcini with saffron risotto & chopped arugula, scented with a hint of white truffle oil.

The 18 year old paired well with both dishes, especially with the salmon, where the honeysuckle and lemon notes played off brilliantly (salmon and whisky is always a good match, we find).

Next was the "grandfather" Glenmorangie 25 year old (43%), of which Dr Bill only makes 500 cases per year, and describes as "very difficult". Initially made as a one-off in 2001 (for the Taiwanese market), demand in Asia grew to the point where it became a world-wide, core part of the lineup. Dr Bill admitted it can be "inconsistent", but previous awards, including Best 15+ year old Single Malt Scotch in recent years have cemented its place as an extremely good dram.

The whisky starts life in ex-Bourbon barrels, where it remains for ~20 years, before 25% is moved into sherry casks, and 25% into French red wine casks. You get the feeling that Dr Bill loves to play around with casks, finishes and ratios, and trust us, that's a good thing for whisky drinkers the world over!

4th Course: Grilled lobster with bouillabaisse reduction

The 25 year old was another good pairing, adding a spiciness, nuttiness and even juiciness that wasn't present when eating the lobster on its own. Definitely one of those pairings where the whisky enhances the food.

The final dram of the day was the Glenmorangie Signet (46%). Signet, which we tasted way back in the year it was unveiled - 2008 (at the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh) is clearly a passion project for Dr Bill, who called it the "biggest challenge of his career", with origins going back to the 90s. Using barley roasted like coffee beans ('high roast chocolate malt'), Dr Bill said he worked on Signet in secret for years, with the only giveaway being that "the distillery smelled like a Starbucks". Aged for 12-13 years, Dr Bill felt it didn't reflect the Glenmorangie style enough, so he set about seeing what could be added to bring the vision to life.

"What could be added" ended up being Glenmorangie from:

• Designer casks (giving the creaminess)
• 10yo ex-Bourbon whisky further aged for 5 years in ex-sherry casks
• 10yo ex-Bourbon whisky further aged for 5 years in toasted virgin oak casks
• Some secret casks; and
• A dressing of 35-45 year old Glenmorangie.

Wow - only Dr Bill could come up with something like that. Actually, that's not true, but to produce something like that and make it taste as fantastic as it does - that takes skill like Dr Bill's.

5th and final Course: Espresso ice cream & chocolate fudge cake

It can be easy (or easier) to match whisky with dessert, but regardless, this was the highlight pairing of the day, with the rich mocha notes of the Signet matching perfectly with the espresso ice cream and chocolate orange cake (with candied orange rind on top).

A fantastic end to a brilliant lunch, having met one of Scotland's true whisky visionaries (who also just happens to be a really top bloke).

Martin, "Dr Bill" Lumsden and Eddie

Cheers,

Martin.

TimeforWhisky.com would like to say a huge thanks to Dr Bill for his time, and to MHDHK for the invitation.

Glenmorangie Tùsail Private Tasting Dinner with Dr Bill Lumsden at The Cut Bar & Grill

As highlighted in our "weekly" update (#18), Glenmorangie released in April, in Australia, the sixth Private Edition collection, the Glenmorangie Tùsail. 

To commemorate the launch of Tùsail, a number of whisky bloggers, lifestyle writers and PR representatives gathered at The Cut Bar & Grill for a dinner tasting of the Tùsail (amongst other Glenmorangie expressions) hosted by well respected whisky figure, Dr Bill Lumsden - Director of Distilling, Whisky Creation & Whisky Stocks at The Glenmorangie Company.

Tùsail has ventured away from the artisanal flair of the previous Private Edition collections which have predominantly focussed on the maturation or the finishing and the use of different types of cask (as we saw last year with Companta and its use of the red wine barriques). The name Tùsail or Tùsailis is the Scottish Gaelic word for originary, which means ‘causing the origin of’ and the name Glenmorangie Tùsail was chosen as it best reflects the inspiration behind the whisky, with its use of a rare barley that carries with it a distinctive taste profile which was almost lost to the world.

The curation of the Tùsail followed the inspiration that culminated in the Glenmorangie Signet, the dark, refined, coffee-brew inspired expression. The Signet focussed on the barley as opposed to the maturation with the use of the roasted 'chocolate' barley malt (as typically used in porter and stout) to produce an experience similar to that of waking up in the morning to the smell of a fresh roasted brewed coffee, as highlighted by Dr Bill on the night. 

Dr Bill Lumsden explains that with Tùsail, it makes use of a previously near-extinct "Maris Otter" barley, otherwise known as a winter barley which gives the whisky a depth of flavour and character that differs to other malt varietals, with notes of nuttiness, toffee, cinnamon and dates. The barley itself was first commercially harvested only 50 years ago and became a cornerstone of the craft-brewing industry in England as it was able to impart such depth of flavour. The use of the "Maris Otter" barley in Tùsail has meant that there is now a degree of preservation to this near-extinct barley.

As compared to other Glenmorangie expressions, Tùsail shares some similarities to that of the Glenmorangie Original with its soft, floral and creamy notes. From the tasting (full tasting notes below), there are elements of sweet vanilla, spring flowers on the nose and creamy, toffee, apple notes on the palate - some similarities to the Original, which was also served on the night.

The night kicked off with a varied expression of the Old Fashioned, otherwise known on the night as the Long Zest with its use of the Glenmorangie Original, bitters, ginger and flamed zest of orange. The Long Zest was a great, refreshing way to kick off the launch and a great take on the generally bourbon-driven Old Fashioned.

 

Known within the Sydney dining scene, The Cut Bar & Grill provides an intimate dining experience and is well known for its creative use of produce including its signature slow roast rib and flat iron steak. What made the night a lot more exciting was the pairing of whiskies with all the dishes served on the night, one of which was the flat iron steak. The whisky line-up included the Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban, Glenmorangie Nectar d'Or‎, Glenmorangie Lasanta, Glenmorangie Signet and the star of the night, the Glenmorangie Tùsail. The full tasting notes for Tùsail and Signet are detailed below.

To calm the nerves of those anxious to taste Tùsail on the night, Dr Bill called for the Tùsail to be the first expression to be tasted that night. 

Glenmorangie Tùsail (46% ABV, NAS, Highlands, Scotland, $165AUD)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
An innovative use of a different barley varietal, the "Marris Otter" winter barley gives way to a soft, refined and creamy expression.

Colour: Light gold

Nose: Spring flowers, peaches, honey with notes of winter melon and honey dew

Palate: The palate is soft, creamy and refreshing with notes of honey, toffee, peaches and apple -- quite similar to the floral and sweet notes of the Glenmorangie Original with the added layer of toffee and sweetness

Finish: The finish is dry and medium with lingering dried spices, cinnamon

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100.

Having tasted the Tùsail, it was then off to the set of courses for the night including the well known Rangers Valley Flat Iron steak as served with parsnip vanilla puree, oak smoked bone marrow jus and paired with a dram of the Glenmorangie Lasanta. The Lasanta paired well with the steak and provided additional sweet notes from having been finished in Oloroso and PX casks. The Lasanta, though, did contrast with the two previous expressions, the Quinta Ruban and the Nectar d'Or. The Quinta Ruban being quite deep, rich, sweet and complex and the Nectar d'Or, being full of dried spices and sweetnesss.

The Glenmorangie Signet was paired with the last course of the night, the dessert course. The richness of the Signet complemented the warm chocolate tart with the added old fashioned scented ice cream. The espresso notes inherent in the Signet bode well as a pair to the warm dessert and also as a final expression for the night.

Glenmorangie Signet (46% ABV, NAS, Highlands, Scotland, $200AUD)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A deep, mysterious expression that takes its inspiration from a good fresh roasted brew in the morning. An expression that smells as good as it tastes.

Colour: Pale amber.

Nose: Notes of honey, vanilla, orange zest and a hint of espresso (that morning brew)

Palate: The palate is rich and begins with notes of salty liquorice that develops into various spices, most prominent is cloves

Finish: The finish is long, mouth-coating and fresh. The finish leaves you salivating for more.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100.

The Signet was the last dram of the night and the dram that gracefully closed the commemoration of Tùsail. Reflecting back, it was truly a remarkable and memorable night with Dr Bill Lumsden. He is simply a knowledgeable, colourful and passionate whisky character. I recall Andrew Derbidge of SMWS attesting to his great respect for Dr Bill Lumsden (and also for Jim McEwan) at the Bruichladdich SMWS tasting late last year, and I can concur with Andrew. It was also great to hear some of the Dr Bill Lumsden's travel stories on the night with one fairly interesting story involving speed dating, whiskies and Las Vegas. But that's for another post....

Tùsail retails for $165AUD and can be purchased through specialist whisky shops (think Oak Barrel, World of Whisky etc...) or online at the Moét Hennessy Collection.

Cheers,
Hendy

TimeforWhisky.com would like to thank EVH for the invitation to what was a remarkable and memorable night with the one and only, Dr Bill Lumsden of the Glenmorangie Company.