Four Pillars Gin Tasting with Stuart Gregor at The Woods (Hong Kong)

"Gin?" you ask? Isn't this a whisk(e)y blog?

Sure, but unlike that other white spirit, gin is a spirit we find interesting, characterised by flavour (rather than the lack thereof), and enjoyable. Plus in this case, we're talking about a craft Aussie spirit (one of our favourite topics) that also happens to be bloody good.

Four Pillars hasn't been around for long (having started life as a crowdfunded project in late 2013), but has quickly established itself as a world class gin, taking out Double Gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and a Silver at the London IWSC, as well as a recognition at Tales of the Cocktail. When the gents from Red Willow (purveyors of Four Pillars and other fine spirits & whiskies, and also the team behind the new Tramline Liquor Co shop in Kennedy Town) asked if I wanted to drop by one evening and share a G&T with Four Pillars co-founder Stuart Gregor, they didn't need to ask me twice. 

During a quick tour of HK, Stuart (also the President of the Australian Distillers Association) took some time to hold an informal session at The Woods, to introduce the brand, answer any questions, and let us taste the three core releases (and in his words, to "smash some G&Ts"). The gin lineup consisted of:

• Four Pillars Rare Dry GIn
• Four Pillars Navy Strength Gin (previously "Gunpowder Proof Gin")
• Four Pillars Barrel Aged Gin

Four Pillars use a still ("Wilma" - her name's on the bottle) from Christian Carl in Germany, which Stuart says you'd "have to be an idiot to stuff up". Clearly it's working for them - with Four Pillars now second in its class in Australia (only 18 months after release), and getting attention on a world scale.

The gins use 10 core botanicals (though some releases, like the very limited Spiced Negroni Gin, use different botanicals) and the spirit comes off the stills at a hefty 94% ABV. The botanical basket is filled with orange halves during distillation, giving the gin a citrusy, but not bitter characteristic. No wonder it works so well in a Negroni!

The latest release, the Barrel Aged, sees the gin rest for 6-9 months in French Oak ex-Aussie Chardonnay casks from Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula. When asked how they know when to bottle, Stuart said that with a whopping 9 casks in total, they just taste each one - "takes about 20 minutes". Stuart described it as a "whisky drinker's gin", and he was spot on. I don't love every barrel aged/rested gin I've tried, but I did really enjoy this one.

The "Navy Strength" (previously "Gunpowder Proof") packs a punch at 58.8%, but works well in a variety of mixed drinks, as well as on the rocks.

All three were enjoyable (we were already huge fans of the Rare Dry in this household), and made fantastic and very different G&Ts. A gin for every occasion.

Thanks must go to Mark and Adam from  Red Willow / Tramline Liquor Co for the invite, and Stuart (and his lovely wife) for giving up their time to talk us through their gins. Four Pillars can be purchased from Red Willow's online store in Hong Kong, and all good bottle shops in Australia.

Cheers,

Martin.

Glenfarclas tasting with George Grant (Tasted #212 - 216)

Having run this blog for a few years now, we're lucky to get regular invites to various industry / media / trade events - many of which you end up reading about here. There's still the odd event though that we stumble upon completely by chance - this one being a perfect example. 

A few weeks ago I was at Tiffany's New York Bar in the Intercontinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong, enjoying a cold beer (respite from the stifling summer heat) ahead of an epic Islay whisky dinner, when I got chatting to their affable resident manager John. In the course of conversation, John mentioned that in just over a week, George Grant of Glenfarclas (Brand Ambassador and 6th Generation family member) would be hosting a tasting at the bar, and would I be interested in joining? You don't have to ask me twice! This would be the second noted Speyside figure I'd be meeting in Tiffany's in just a few months (the other being David Stewart of The Balvenie, back in June), and a good chance to speak to "the man behind the brand", after Steph and I had just visited the distillery a few weeks earlier.

There are some great whisky bars in Hong Kong, and Tiffany's (in our opinion) sits up there with the best of them. The range mightn't be the largest in Hong Kong (though it's quickly getting there), but they have an eclectic mix of IBs, OBs, and even some of their own cask finished whiskies (and if there was ever a bar with a décor that screamed "whisky bar", this would have to be it. Warm, welcoming, classy, elegant.)

Arriving on a hot Monday night, we took our seats and admired the lineup of drams, consisting of:

• Glenfarclas 12yo
• Glenfarclas 17yo
• Glenfarclas 25yo
• Glenfarclas 105
• Glenfarclas "Mystery Malt" (which we knew was a Family Cask, and later turned out to be the 1995 Release IX)

Having been to our fair share of tastings over the years, we've discovered there are brand ambassadors / master distillers who really need to work to hold the attention of a room, and there are those to whom it comes naturally. George clearly falls into the latter group, with his open, honest and humorous demeanour befitting his family-owned distillery perfectly.

Explaining the family naming convention (John, then George, George, George, his father John, and George himself), George recalled being slightly shocked at first seeing a grave with "his" name on it (actually his grandfather's), but slightly more at ease when he walked into one of the warehouses and realised there were also 55,000 casks of whisky with his name on them (enough to put anyone's mind at ease, we think).

Translating to "Valley of the Green Grass", Glenfarclas remains wholly family-owned to this day, which makes their global reach (76 markets until they added the Caribbean, bringing the total to 102 countries) all the more impressive. It was interesting to note that Germany is their largest market, and was the sole driver for their recent "Trilogy" series. George also had some other interesting insights, such as the myth of the "great Chinese whisky market" (which in his opinion, doesn't exist) and the growth he's seen in whisky in HK, having previously lived here for 12 years.

After a few more anecdotes and (truly interesting) insights into different whisky markets, we dived into the tasting...

Glenfarclas 12 year old (43% ABV, 12yo, Speyside, Scotland, $600HKD / $89.95AUD)
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Colour: Golden caramel (ironic given Glenfarclas' staunch lack of caramel colouring)
Nose: Flint, spice, a hint of smoke. Definitely sherried, but a "fresh" sherry - vibrant and youthful.
Palate: Spice, cinnamon, oat cakes and Brazil nuts. Slightest hint of smoke.
Finish: Medium length, spicy. Slightly "thin" towards the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100. A simple, easy drinking, every day dram.



Glenfarclas 17 year old (43% ABV, 17yo, Speyside, Scotland, $1,100HKD / $160AUD)
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Originally released exclusively for Japan, then HK, then other Asian markets, and now everywhere.
Colour: Orange gold
Nose: Well-rounded and sweet. Dried fruits, cherries. Almost port-like notes, and a lot of crème brûlée.
Palate: Smoother than the 12, but still with some of the spice the 12 showed. Much sweeter though, more "chewy", and more legs on the glass. More mouth-filling, more Oloroso notes.
Finish: Medium to long. The spice tones down and the Christmas cake notes amp up. Lots of Brazil nuts.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100.



Glenfarclas 25 year old (43% ABV, 25yo, Speyside, Scotland, $2,400HKD / $189.90AUD)
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Colour: Bright orange.
Nose: A hint of flint, orange peel, a little crème brûlée, and strangely, a hint of salty sea air.
Palate: Much more sherry influence than the nose suggests. Lots of raisins and other dried fruits, nuts, but also big citrus notes.
Finish: Long. Slightly drying, bitter dark chocolate-dipped orange slices.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100.



Glenfarclas 105 (60% ABV, NAS, Speyside, Scotland, $790HKD / $119.95AUD)
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George's grandfather's favourite apparently - so much so that he was secretly squirrelling away 6 bottles a week - 3 from George, and 3 from George's father!
Colour: Dark copper.
Nose: Huge toffee notes. Overwhemling(ly good). Dark chocolate. Thoughts instantly turn to dessert.
Palate: Big, slightly hot, lots of dark chocolate. A few drops of water adds some heat and orange zest.
Finish: Long, slightly hot, but smooth. Oranges and toffee.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100. Yes please.



Glenfarclas Family Cask 1995 Release IX (55.2% ABV, 17yo, Speyside, Scotland, no longer available in HK / AU it seems)
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I tried this a few weeks earlier at the distillery, and enjoyed it just as much the second time around. As the notes show, quite different to the previous drams!
Colour: Dark dirty copper.
Nose: Sugary sweetness - cola bottle lollies, and some pine nuts. Quite a mix!
Palate: Honied sweetness gives way to Brazil nuts, all with an undertone of those cola bottle lollies (which I loved as a kid). Unique, different...which really is what you want when you're paying significantly more than the standard 17yo!
Finish: Medium to long, with some residual barbecued meat notes at the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100.

Soon after the drams were tasted, out came a birthday cake - it turns out it was George's birthday! (Lucky him, getting to spend it with us.)

Happy Birthday George, and thanks for a fantastic tasting (and for signing my bottle of £511.19s.0d)!

Keep an eye out for our write-up of the Glenfarclas distillery tour shortly.

Cheers,

Martin.

TimeforWhisky.com would like to thank InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong for the invite, and George Grant for giving up his time (on his birthday no less).

Tasted #211: Pappy Van Winkle 23yo Family Reserve (#101drams)

After a run of recent #101drams posts, it's time to continue...this time with one of with the big guns...


Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve 23yo, from the "Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery" (which is actually not a distillery, but a company who contract distillation and bottling to the Sazerac Company at its Buffalo Trace Distillery in Kentucky) doesn't need a whole lot of introduction. Retailing for $249.99USD each year, and selling out approximately 3 seconds after it goes on sale each year, this is about as rare and sought-after as Bourbon gets. If you found one for 3-4 times that price, you'd be doing incredibly well. Just look at how much a few bottles went for at the recent Bonhams Hong Kong auction.


I knew it wouldn't be easy to find when I added it to the list in February 2013, and it only got more difficult as time went on. I found it (for a reasonable price) on the menu at the Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge, Macau, but sadly they ran out the week before.


Then when I heard that Archie Rose, who we visited back in April had a bottle, I knew that was my chance. It wasn't cheap, but this whiskey isn't exactly decreasing in price or rarity...





Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve 23yo (47.8% ABV, 23yo, Bottle # F-2233, Kentucky, USA, maybe try your luck at the auctions. Bring your chequebook.)
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Colour: Deep, dark, almost impenetrable copper. Some of the longest legs you've ever seen.

Nose: A big bouquet of floral, caramel vanilla at first. This is definitely a bourbon, and an exquisite one at that. A second nosing brings out some faint earthy notes - vegetation, with a slight dustiness.

Palate: Earthy, nutty, big caramel but also nougat. Leather and some oak (the latter being remarkably refined for such an old bourbon). The slightest hint of chlorinated pool water(?) - that was an odd one, but it was unmistakably there (no there were no cleaning solvents around me at the time...) - quite a lot going on here.

Finish: Long, lingering, vegetal notes with some boiled sweets. Cheese cake with a side of banana nougat. Lots going on here too - right to the very end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100. An experience, for sure. A complex and delicious one, too.

Cheers,
Martin.

The Glenlivet Founder's Reserve Launch (Tasted #210)

The Glenlivet, as a single malt brand, has a remarkable global standing, being the second biggest selling single malt globally after Glenfiddich and also being the biggest selling single malt brand in the US and also here in Australia (Martin: Although according to the folks at Glenfiddich when we visited a few weeks ago, they've actually been overtaken, and The Glenlivet now holds the #1 global spot). Locally, the Glenlivet shares similar fanfare with its core range of the 12yo, 15yo and 18yo (as well as the Nadurra, 21yo and the 25yo XXV).

Its long-standing 12yo expression had remained a consistent winner locally with its sweet, pleasant and smooth notes at a price point that would not put much of a dent in the pocket. With the launch of the Glenlivet Founder's Reserve (a new NAS release), it has been confirmed that the 12yo will be phased out in Australia by year end - having been (technically) replaced by the Founder's Reserve. The 12yo will remain available in some markets globally (Hong Kong for one, where two different 12yo variants are readily available).

The new Founder's Reserve expression was described by Ben Davidson, The Glenlivet Brand Ambassador as an expression that was carefully curated by Alan Winchester, Master Distiller of The Glenlivet, to pay tribute to founder George Smith who had founded the distillery in 1824.

To celebrate the release and to preview the Founder's Reserve, Pernod Ricard held a launch event at an exclusive penthouse residence in Elizabeth Bay, Sydney. As with previous Pernod Ricard tastings and launch events, we knew that this event was not going to be an ordinary affair (back in 2013, Pernod Ricard hosted the launch of 'The Guardian's Chapter' at one of Sydney's top restaurants, Tetsuya's). Upon walking into the residence, the first thing I noticed was the sweeping view of Sydney harbour. The second thing I noticed was the Founder's Reserve bottle. Elegantly placed and presented, the single Founder's Reserve bottle was displayed as a feature in the lounge area amongst teal coloured candles - a beautiful sight.

Then there was this large Glenlivet ice sculpture which was placed next to the Bartender's table and attracted quite a bit of attention on the night -- especially from those who prefer their dram on the rocks (kidding). Various canapés, the Founder's Reserve Cocktail and the Founder's Reserve, neat, were served throughout the night and allowed guests a sneak preview of the whisky before the official introduction of the event and the Founder's Reserve expression by Pernod Ricard’s Marketing Manager, Sladjan Maksimovic and The Glenlivet’s aforementioned Brand Ambassador, Ben Davidson.

Sladjan spoke briefly to welcome guests to the event and Ben followed with a short presentation on the Founder's Reserve and its true attribution to George Smith's vision of establishing an exceptional, smooth malt whisky that was then named simply 'The Glenlivet'. Ben continued by providing a few intricate details regarding the Founder's Reserve, including the select use of ex-American oak barrels and ex-American oak first fill barrels to produce the final malt. Interestingly, the use of the American oak first fill barrels adds another level of sweetness to the final malt as all the vanillins from the American oak are absorbed by the malt, to which we shall attest shortly.

Ben pointed to a couple of features on the bottle worth noting; the first being George Smith's signature, emblazoned across the bottom of the bottle, signifying George's seal of approval on the malt; and the second being a signifier detailing the Packhorse Bridge that crosses the Livet River in the Livet Valley, signifying the birth of The Glenlivet in 1824. The intention being that these details may help to market the Founder's Reserve as a more modern whisky and also one that carries a notable backstory.

Shortly after the presentation, Ben suggested that we ought to pick up our share of the Founder's Reserve and take a moment to appreciate this expression.

The Glenlivet Founder's Reserve (40% ABV, NAS, OB, Speyside, Scotland, $49.95AUD)

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A simple, delicate single malt whisky. The smooth and sweet profile of the Founder's Reserve makes it quite a nice dram that you can have any day of the week throughout the year.

Colour: Light gold

Nose: The nose is soft and there are hints of peach, vanilla, meringue, orange peel with a slight toffee and oaky notes.

Palate: The palate is delicate, smooth and sweet; vanilla ,toffee and caramel sweet. After some time, the sweetness on the palate then gives into hints of cardamon and orange citrus oil.

Finish: The finish is relatively short and simple, though the smoothness and the sweetness of the malt from the palate lingers for a while longer.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 88/100.

The Founder's Reserve is now available locally alongside other The Glenlivet expressions including the 12yo, though the 12yo will be discontinued after the end of the year.

Thanks to the Pernod Ricard Australia and Cav Con for having us as part of, what was undoubtedly, an excellent celebration to welcome the new The Glenlivet expression into the local The Glenlivet family.

Cheers,
Hendy

This week in whisk(e)y #22 - New Japanese Whisky, Bunnahabhain's new "boat whisky", Fred Noe in Australia, Tiki whiskey cocktails, Whisky Mooncakes and more!

As you might know if you read this blog regularly, we get a fair few interesting press releases and news articles here at TimeforWhisky, and usually try to feature them with our own spin, experiences or comments. Sometimes though, they come thick and fast, and we just don't have time to do them all justice.

So we've decided to take a leaf out of some other excellent whisky blogs, and feature a "PR roundup" every now and then - basically a wrap-up of relevant press releases we've received in the previous week or so (including other interesting whisk(e)y news Steph, Hendy & or I think you might enjoy). So on with it then...

New Japanese whisky - 10 year old Single Malt Fujikai from Monde Shuzo Distillery
All the way from French distributor Les Whiskies du Monde (@whiskiesdumonde) comes news of a "new" Japanese Single Malt. We say "new" because it's not like this whisky was created yesterday (it is 10 years old after all), but is from a distillery that previously very few would have heard of - Monde Shuzo Distillery, at the foot of Mount Fuji.

Fujikai is considered a "Ji-Whisky" or "craft whisky", which given the current popularity of Japanese whisky, we'll be very surprised if we don't hear a lot more of in the coming years (we've already heard of another Japanese craft whisky distillery in the last month, though unlike that one, Monde Shuzo has been distilling since 1952).

We'll be receiving a sample in the next few weeks, but until then, here are a few more details:

• Bottled at 43% ABV
• Matured for years in ex-Bourbon barrels
• Limited to 8808 bottles (bottles are 500mL)
• Available for £49.45 from Master of Malt

Bunnahabhain announces Hogshead 733 - whisky finished in casks made from a former fishing boat
We're certainly seeing some interesting takes on whisky maturation of late. From Ardbeg (and more recently Suntory) ageing whisky in space, to whiskies aged with music, to Jefferson's Bourbon aged at sea - these whiskies add a different element to the category, and bring a fresh, interesting new take.

Adding to the mix now is Bunnahabhain (aka "Bunna") who have just announced "Hogshead 733", a whisky to be finished in casks made from a fishing boat currently embarking on a 733 mile journey.

Such an experiment could really only be undertaken by an Islay distillery, and we think it's quite fitting that Bunnahabhain, with their typically unpeated style (allowing the influence of the sea-soaked cask to shine through, we hope), be the ones to do it. We're very interested to try the resulting whisky, whenever it becomes available.

Quoting the press release:

"Bunnahabhain Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky announces Hogshead 733 – a collaboration with contemporary artists Maxime Berthou and Mark Požlep to produce the first ever whisky finished in casks made from a former fishing boat.

The two men have embarked on an epic 733 mile sailing quest which will see them battle the high seas from Trebeurden in Brittany, France, all the way to Bunnahabhain Distillery in Islay. Inspired by adventure, craftsmanship and love of whisky, Maxime and Mark have spent the last two years painstakingly restoring a wooden, Brittany fishing vessel from 1941 back to its former glory.    

Bunnahabhain is steeped in seafaring history, with the whisky’s iconic Helmsman and his maritime stories having inspired the brand for generations.

Set to arrive in Islay at the end of September, the journey will not stop there. Soaked with adventures and the salty sea water, the oak boat will be dismantled and carefully crafted into handmade whisky casks. The casks will be filled with Bunnahabhain and the precious spirit will then be finished in the casks before being bottled and sold.

Maxime Berthou said: "The inspiration for this project stems from the human longing for new discoveries and nostalgia for traditional, handmade craftsmanship, something we've moved away from in today's modern society.

“For Mark and me, this is a journey about transformation, adventure, passion, labour and whisky. It has taken us two years to get to this stage and we are excited to finally be on our way to Bunnahabhain."

Follow Mark and Maxime’s journey on Bunnahabhain’s Twitter (@bunnahabhain) and Facebook (www.facebook.com/Bunnahabhain).”

The Singleton Discovery Series - A World Class Music Program
Music and whisky has always been a great match, and MHDHK have embraced hat with a series of 3 upcoming concerns in Hong Kong.

Quoting the press release:

"The Singleton Single Malt Whisky is proud to announce the launch of The Singleton Discovery Series, a program of world class live music, showcasing some of the world’s most extraordinary artists. Curated and produced in conjunction with House of Mercury, the Discovery Series will shine a spotlight on musical greatness - acclaimed, and in the making. Hosted in the uniquely intimate setting of OVOLO Southside’s G.I.G. space (update: Now Loft 22 in California Tower, LKF), the inaugural autumn program showcases an eclectic cross section of Grammy-nominated neo soul, alternative rock, electronic indie and Mississippi blues, courtesy of award-winning international talent from across the globe.

“The program we have curated is unlike any we have seen in Hong Kong,” said Jake Gould, Director House of Mercury. “We are committed to presenting true talent. This is not about acts at the top of Spotify playlists. It’s a showcase of artists truly worthy of discovery, whether you are familiar with their work, or not.”

“Our whisky is a true pleasure to discover,” said Drew Mills, Marketing Director of The Singleton in Hong Kong. ”By presenting this unique music program, we are offering a marvelous opportunity for Hong Kong to savour our world class single malt whisky, alongside truly incredible music. Each show in the series is set to be an extraordinary holistic evening of discovery. 

• 23 September 2015 – Hiatus Kaiyote - hiatuskaiyote.ticketflap.com

• 24 October 2015 – Harts - harts.ticketflap.com

• 14 November 2015 – Mr. Sipp  “The Mississippi Blues Child” - mrsipp.ticketflap.com

Jim Beam Gives Back to Fans by Supporting Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia
Fans of Bourbon and Jim Beam may be interested to know that Fred Noe is visiting Australian shores very soon. While there are a bunch of media and trade events planned (some of which we'll be covering for the site), there's one way for Western Sydney Bourbon fans to meet the 7th Generation Jim Beam Master Distiller, this coming Saturday 5th September, and support a worthy charity at the same time:

"Jim Beam Bourbon is making history by bringing all three of these passions together in Penrith this September with its very own Big Aussie Barbie. Jim Beam’s seventh generation Master Distiller, Fred Noe, known for crafting the world’s number one bourbon, is coming to Australia and will cook up a mean barbecue in support of the Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia (PCFA) at Penrith Panthers’ Pepper Stadium on Saturday, 5 September.

Ben Andrews, Marketing Manager at Jim Beam says the company is excited to be partnering with PCFA to raise awareness of prostate cancer in Australia. “Our intention by supporting PCFA is to help take the Big Aussie Barbie initiative to new levels this year and encourage more men and women to be aware of the effects and incidence of prostate cancer. As well as driving awareness through our on-pack promotion, we will be supporting all PCFA events nationally and hosting our own Big Aussie Barbie,” said Andrews.

PCFA’s Big Aussie Barbie campaign encourages Australians to turn their everyday barbecues into fundraising events in support of the organisation’s work. In addition to supporting the PCFA events and hosting its own Barbie, through the GIVE BACK WITH JIM BEAM BLACK initiative, Jim Beam will donate one dollar for every PCFA co-branded Jim Beam Black 700ml bottle and 10-pack sold throughout Australia, aiming to contribute $125,000 to the cause.

Fred Noe is looking forward to meeting some Penrith locals after the Panthers game, and to spread awareness. “What better way to bring people together for a good cause than by serving Kentucky Straight Bourbon and Kentucky-style barbecue after a rugby match,” said Noe. “If this Big Aussie Barbie in Penrith helps men talk about prostate cancer, then I’m all for it. I’m looking forward to enjoying a cold Jim Beam with the Penrith community and raising some money for a great cause.”

Australia and the United States are the two biggest bourbon markets in the world and them coming together over a barbie to raise money for Prostate Cancer is an initiative worth celebrating. In a recent consumer study, more than two thirds of Jim Beam Black drinkers believe “helping others is an important part of who I am” so Jim Beam found it to be a natural partnership.

Fred and the Jim Beam team will be at the Pepper Stadium, Western Bar from 4.30pm to 6.30pm following the Penrith Panthers’ final home game on Saturday, 5 September. Then, after a few snags, they will move on to Panthers Leagues Club where the party will continue with drinks specials on Jim Beam Black, and Fred will host a Jim Beam Raffle with all proceeds going to PCFA.

For more information about Jim Beam, visit www.jimbeam.com.au.”

Glenfiddich, Balvenie, Dalmore and Bruichladdich pop-up bar at RBHK
Restaurant and Bar Show HK (with whom we're Media Partners) is coming up, and to whet your whisky thirst, Telford have announced a pop-up whisky bar with a series of master-classes and tastings.

Hall 5E, EE01: Daily @ 3:30pm-4:15pm (standup tasting)

• 8 September:    Glenfiddich – David Ding, Portfolio manager - China

• 9 September:    BRUICHLADDICH – Murray Campbell, Brand Ambassador – Asia Pacific

• 10 September:  The Dalmore – Kenny Wang, Sales Director – Greater China

Hall 5E, Artisanal Drinks Live: 9 Sep @ 4:00pm-4:40pm (sit down tasting)

• 9 September:    The Balvenie – David Ding, Portfolio manager - China

Telford will also have daily Jack Daniels cocktails on offer, so drop by on any day and say hi.



Honi Honi launch new menu, with Tiki whiskey cocktails
Honi Honi, Hong Kong's most famous Tiki bar might serve primarily rum-based drinks (it is a Tiki bar, after all), but who's to say you can't make a Tiki cocktail with whiskey?

As part of their new 50-strong 2015 drinks menu, Honi Honi have created 3 whiskey cocktails perfectly befitting the island vibe (and catering to both summer and winter tastes):

• Tokerao is a mix of Michter's Rye Whiskey, Green Chartreuse, Cartron Caramel Liqueur, Cartron Poire Williams Liqueur, Pear Pureé, Apple Juice, Lemon Juice and Star Anise.
• Spiced Bourbon Punch mixes Michter's Bourbon, Cartron Caramel Liqueur, Milk, Vanilla Syrup, Apple Juice, Gingerbread Syrup and Cinnamon (perhaps one for the cooler months); and
• Bounty Hunder sees Michter's Bourbon mixed with Baileys, Coconut Milk, Aztec Chocolate Bitters and Coconut Syrup.

Whisky Mooncakes from Intercontinental Grand Stanford, Hong Kong
Mid-Autum Festival is almost upon us, and that means...Mooncake time (for those unfamiliar with these bakery items, see here).

Intercontinental Grand Stanford (home to the excellent Tiffany's New York Bar, one of the city's better whisky bars) have announced their 2015 Mooncakes, and they include these 3 mouth-watering options:

• Caol Ila 12 year old Hazelnut and Almond Truffle
• Benromach 10 year old Double Chocolate
• Glenfarclas 105 Butter Cookie Praline

See link for more details and order forms: http://www.hongkong.intercontinental.com/en/promotions-and-offers/mooncake-2015/


There's a 20% discount if you order by today, which we're going to go and do now!


Thats all for this week. Until next time...

Cheers, 
Martin.

New world record price for Japanese Whisky at Bonhams Hong Kong Auction - 52 yo Karuizawa sells for over $900,000 HKD

Tonight we attended Bonhams Hong Kong's latest Whisky auction which, in addition to having a full set of Ichiro's Malt "Cards" series (all 54 "cards", including the incredibly rare Monochrome Joker), also featured more Karuizawa than we've seen in a single auction ever.

I went along not planning to buy anything (I did register, just in case), but more out of curiosity and to get a feel for the market. Having attended a few Spink auctions in Hong Kong, I knew that there were a lot of crazy prices being asked for whisky (in particular, Japanese whisky), but it didn't always seem those prices were being achieved. I wondered if the Japanese whisky market had hit its peak.

Well if tonight's auction was anything to go by - it most certainly had not.

Single cask Karuizawas (always a hit) consistently smashed their estimates, often going for 30-50% above their upper estimate. Hanyus and other single cask Japanese whiskies were similarly fetching far more than the higher estimates set in the catalogue. It was not uncommon to see a 30+ year old single cask 'zawa fetch $75,000 to $110,000 HKD ($13,500 to $20,000 AUD).

You almost got the sense that even the auctioneer (a consummate professional, we should add), couldn't believe his luck, but was loving it regardless. Certainly some of the audience (both online and in the room) were slightly in awe.

Is it investors looking to move their money somewhere other than the Chinese stock market? An insatiable love of whisky (we doubt it), or something else? Who knows, but it seems the popularity of Japanese whisky on the auction circuit just keeps rising and rising (for now). Even whiskies from current distilleries performed incredibly well.

The small parcel of Scotch on offer, mostly made up of Macallan but with a few interesting Bowmores, Laphroaigs and others, did reasonably well too, although as seems to be the case often in these auctions, there wasn't a lot of interest in the Glenfiddichs.

The full results can be found here, but the two lots that clearly stole the show were as follows:

• Karuizawa 1960 52 year old ("The Cockerel"), which sold for $918,750 HKD (inc. premium). For our Aussie readers, that's $165,000AUD. For one bottle of (admittedly very rare) whisky.

• Hanyu Ichiro's Full Cards Series (54 bottles), which sold for $3,797,500 HKD (inc. premium). In AUD? $685,000AUD.

You can see a video of the Karuizawa's winning bid over on our Facebook page (and give us a "Like" while you're at it).

Choo choo, or bubble bubble? Only time will tell.

Cheers,

Martin.

PS: Whether or not buyers are buying to drink or invest, we have to commend Bonhams for their whisky selection offered to all attendees, which included a mix of Japanese, Taiwanese, Scotch, blends, malts and even some IBs. 15 whiskies were on offer and (along with the generous food) made staying through the long proceedings just that little bit better.

Glenmorangie tasting lunch with "Dr Bill" Lumsden at Sevva (Hong Kong)

Ask anyone who's met "Dr Bill" Lumsden before (even Hendy who attended the Tùsail dinner in Sydney earlier this year) and they'll tell you he's one of the funniest, nicest, down-to-earth whisky blokes you could ever meet. Knowledgable as anything, witty, friendly and always quick with an interesting story.

Luckily, I had the opportunity to meet Dr Bill at a tasting lunch in Hong Kong this week, and I can confirm they're 100% right.

Dr Bill's business card reads "Director of Distilling, Whisky Creation & Whisky Stocks", but he's more commonly known as the man behind the modern day successes of both Ardbeg and Glenmorangie, a pioneer of wood finishing, and a man who takes a highly scientific approach (putting his PHD to good use) when it comes to whisky production.

Dr Bill was very briefly in Hong Kong before embarking on a broader Asian tour, and took time to present to media and whisky fans at Hong Kong's Sevva, where he presented four Glenmorangie expression matched to five stunning courses.

The lunch was not to launch or promote any one specific Glenmorangie expression, but rather to celebrate them all, with a careful selection including Glenmorangie Original (10yo), Glenmorangie 18yo, Glenmorangie 25yo and Glenmorangie Signet. After a brief cocktail on Sevva's stunning terrace (a simple lemonade, Glenmorangie Original and ice, which was extremely welcome on a hot Hong Kong Summer's day) it was time to take our seats and hear from the good Doctor.

After first explaining the (many) giraffes placed around the room (a reflection of Glenmorangie's unique long-necked still design), Dr Bill opened with a few jokes, an insight into his drinking habits (preferring younger whiskies generally, and typically drinking Glenmorangie Original despite "being able to fill a bathtub with 25yo" if he wanted) and then introduced us to the first course and its whisky pairing - Glenmorangie "The Original" 10yo (40%).

1st Course: Double Brie Cheese, Mozzarella, toasted walnuts, pear & beetroot salad with raspberry vinaigrette.

The simple (but deliciously fresh) cheese and salad plate paired well with the 10yo Original, with the delicate floral notes of the latter pairing surprisingly well with the robust cheese and nutty flavours of the former.

Being seated right next to Bill (along with good mate Eddie of Barrel Concepts) gave us a great opportunity to chat - about Glenmorangie, Ardbeg, Ardbeg's recent space experiment, wood finishes, the popularity of Japanese whisky, ageing, barley varieties, rugby and golf. Oh, and about a little experiment Dr Bill is in the middle of, involving Ardbeg aged in Russian Oak. Although coy on the details (when asked for his thoughts on the impact Russian Oak has on the spirit, he said to ask again in 2 years), Dr Bill did suggest that the project (codenamed "Ardbeg KGB" within the distillery), could well be a future Ardbeg Day release. We've seen "Islalympics" (2012), Archaelogy (2013), Soccer World Cup (2014) and Space (2015) as themes, so can we expect to see a Russian-themed Ardbeg Day in the near future? Perhaps.

If so....you heard it here first!

Next up was the Glenmorangie 18 year old (43%), which sees ageing in ex-Bourbon casks first, with 1/3 of the whisky spending its final 3 years in Oloroso sherry casks. The "Chanel No.5" of whisky, as Dr Bill put it, with lemon, honeysuckle and (to our palate) some raisins and red grapes. 

2nd Course: Scottish smoked salmon, horseradish & pan-fried sea scallop and mango salsa

3rd Course: Ms B's Risotto: Asparagus, pumpkin, baby peas, porcini with saffron risotto & chopped arugula, scented with a hint of white truffle oil.

The 18 year old paired well with both dishes, especially with the salmon, where the honeysuckle and lemon notes played off brilliantly (salmon and whisky is always a good match, we find).

Next was the "grandfather" Glenmorangie 25 year old (43%), of which Dr Bill only makes 500 cases per year, and describes as "very difficult". Initially made as a one-off in 2001 (for the Taiwanese market), demand in Asia grew to the point where it became a world-wide, core part of the lineup. Dr Bill admitted it can be "inconsistent", but previous awards, including Best 15+ year old Single Malt Scotch in recent years have cemented its place as an extremely good dram.

The whisky starts life in ex-Bourbon barrels, where it remains for ~20 years, before 25% is moved into sherry casks, and 25% into French red wine casks. You get the feeling that Dr Bill loves to play around with casks, finishes and ratios, and trust us, that's a good thing for whisky drinkers the world over!

4th Course: Grilled lobster with bouillabaisse reduction

The 25 year old was another good pairing, adding a spiciness, nuttiness and even juiciness that wasn't present when eating the lobster on its own. Definitely one of those pairings where the whisky enhances the food.

The final dram of the day was the Glenmorangie Signet (46%). Signet, which we tasted way back in the year it was unveiled - 2008 (at the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh) is clearly a passion project for Dr Bill, who called it the "biggest challenge of his career", with origins going back to the 90s. Using barley roasted like coffee beans ('high roast chocolate malt'), Dr Bill said he worked on Signet in secret for years, with the only giveaway being that "the distillery smelled like a Starbucks". Aged for 12-13 years, Dr Bill felt it didn't reflect the Glenmorangie style enough, so he set about seeing what could be added to bring the vision to life.

"What could be added" ended up being Glenmorangie from:

• Designer casks (giving the creaminess)
• 10yo ex-Bourbon whisky further aged for 5 years in ex-sherry casks
• 10yo ex-Bourbon whisky further aged for 5 years in toasted virgin oak casks
• Some secret casks; and
• A dressing of 35-45 year old Glenmorangie.

Wow - only Dr Bill could come up with something like that. Actually, that's not true, but to produce something like that and make it taste as fantastic as it does - that takes skill like Dr Bill's.

5th and final Course: Espresso ice cream & chocolate fudge cake

It can be easy (or easier) to match whisky with dessert, but regardless, this was the highlight pairing of the day, with the rich mocha notes of the Signet matching perfectly with the espresso ice cream and chocolate orange cake (with candied orange rind on top).

A fantastic end to a brilliant lunch, having met one of Scotland's true whisky visionaries (who also just happens to be a really top bloke).

Martin, "Dr Bill" Lumsden and Eddie

Cheers,

Martin.

TimeforWhisky.com would like to say a huge thanks to Dr Bill for his time, and to MHDHK for the invitation.

Bar Review #17: The Brandy Library (New York City, USA) (Tasted #204-209)

Steph and I recently returned from a 3.5 week world trip, taking in (amongst other places) Scotland and the US. On a similar trip with my dad in 2009, I'd stumbled across a great little bar in New York City's Tribeca, Brandy Library, and was impressed with both their selection of whiskies and the friendliness (and knowledge) of the staff, not to mention their unique decor - very much a "library" of spirits.

Fast forward to 2015, and it turns out not only is Brandy Library still thriving, it also now boasts the the very capable, very knowledgable Marlon. Marlon (a good friend) previously lived in Hong Kong (where he ran The Whisky Library) and prior to that, Singapore (where he manned the bar at The (old) Auld Alliance). Quite the International man of whisk(e)y. Marlon moved to NY recently and it was great to catch up and share a few drams, and re-visit a favourite New York whisk(e)y bar.

Located in the heart of Tribeca (and literally across the road from the Ghostbusters Fire Station), Brandy Library is an intimate space offering a variety of spirits, but with a large focus on both brandy and whisk(e)y. The whiskey focus here is definitely American, but with an enviable selection of Scotch, Japanese and other whiskies, and an especially impressive selection of miniatures on display.

Most bars have the majority of spirits behind the bar, perhaps another cabinet or two for particularly well-stocked bars, and maybe (in the cases of bars like Sydney's The Baxter Inn, or Sydney/Melbourne's Eau de Vie) a separate room. At Brandy Library though, the spirits envelope the room, with the walls quite literally covered in rare bottles (and ladders for those hard-to-reach bottles, emphasising the "Library" aspect).

So...with an incredible selection of spirits from around the globe, where to start? Well we'd spent our time on this trip in Japan and Scotland already, so I figured it was time to really explore some American whiskies. Marlon was quick to suggest a custom "Librarian's Craft" flight, and who was I to argue?

Bernheim Original Small Batch Kentucky Straight Wheat Whisky (45% ABV, 7yo, Kentucky, USA)
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Colour: Orange gold.
Nose: Marmalade, cloves and some oaky spice. A little pepper.
Palate: More marmalade but even more spice and oak. Thin on the palate, but with a citrusy sweetness that makes it enjoyable to drink neat. Not overly complex and not likely to knock anyone's socks off, but a very sippable, enjoyable dram.
Finish: Short to medium, some oats.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100.

Angel's Envy Port Finished Bourbon (43.3% ABV, NAS, Kentucky, USA)
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Colour: Red amber.
Nose: Sweet, rich berries. Not that far from a decent, somewhat sherried Scotch.
Palate: Roasted hazelnuts, spicy vanilla, and some toffee. A bourbon, yes, but a richer, more rounded one. Some raspberries round out the enjoyable if not overly complex palate.
Finish: Short and spicy - none of the port influence evidence on the nose or palate.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100.

"The Spirit School Series" Bourbon bottled for Brandy Library by Prichards Distillery (44% ABV, NAS, Kentucky (distilled, matured) and Tennessee (further matured), USA)
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This was is an interesting one. The label states both "Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky" and "Hand-bottled exclusively for Brandy Library by Prichards Distillery, Kelso Tennessee". A little digging reveals that whilst Prichards make much of their own whisky (and rum), this particular spirit is someone else's Bourbon (distillery unknown), and I believe has been re-barrelled for a time at Prichards in Tennessee before bottling.
Colour: Deep red amber.
Nose: Paprika and oak tempered with sweet, velvety caramel and burnt demerara sugar.
Palate: Huge spice, but herbal, vegetal. Creamy and syrupy mouthfeel.
Finish: Long with some sound cream and chives! Not expected, but welcome.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. Who cares where it comes from, it's good whiskey!

Orphan Barrel Whiskey Distilling Co "Barterhouse" (45.1% ABV, 20yo, Kentucky, USA)
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There's been much written about Diageo's well (over?) hyped "Orhan Barrel" series, but the one line version is: Diageo "uncovered" a bunch of rare, old Bourbon casks at Stitzel-Weller in Louisville, Kentucky, and bottled them in Tullahoma, Tennessee (presumably at George Dickel). This is one of their first releases.
Colour: Bright gold.
Nose: Vanilla, toffee, some sugar but with orange peels and grapefruit.
Palate: Very spicy - could be confused for a rye, it it wasn't for the overwhelming sweetness - marshmallow, vanilla toffee and still some citrus notes, again, orange peels.
Finish: Medium length, spicy. Warming but slightly hot at the very end.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100.

Parker's Heritage Collection Original Batch Cask Strength Kentucky Straight Wheat Whiskey (63.4% ABV, 13yo, Kentucky, USA)
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Colour: Deep red copper.
Nose: Creamy pecan and pumpkin pie, without any cream or sugary sweetness.
Palate: Huge. Hot, spicy, almost no sweetness, but a touch of rich vanilla and sour lemon at the end.
Finish: Sour and hot, and very long. Sour to the very end.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100.

Jim Beam "Distiller's Masterpiece" Bourbon (50% ABV, NAS, Kentucky, USA)
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Now this was a surprise. I knew Jim Beam made a few rarer / older expressions (and I knew they were better than regular Jim Beam White Label, of course), but this was a huge delight. 10-12yo Jim Beam finished in PX Sherry Casks, bottled at 50% ABV? They even sold it at Dan's for a time!
Colour: Red copper.
Nose: Sweet American cherry (you know that flavour that's in everything? Yeah, a hint of that). Very, very sweet, but certainly not unpleasant.
Palate: Maple syrup, cherries, hints of oak and a touch of rye spiciness. Incredibly smooth throughout. Balancing that fine line between sweetness and spice, and managing to be incredibly smooth without feeling "thin" or watered-down.
Finish: Medium length with lots of red berries.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. A winner. A bourbon I'd consider buying, even.

Brandy Library can be found at at 25 North Moore Street, New York, NY and is open:

• Sunday through Wednesday 5 pm to 1 am
• Thursday 4 pm to 2 am; and
• Friday and Saturday 4 pm to 4 am

Go say hi to Marlon and the gang, and try some of the most interesting American whiskies you're likely to come across.

Cheers,

Maritn.