Saturday, 12 January 2013

The New Zealand Whisky Company visit

Happy New Year! I hope you all had a relaxing break and managed to spend some quality time with friends and family (and maybe even some friends of the single malt variety). 2013 looks to be a exciting year in the world of whisky, not just in terms of Scotch (which is always exciting), but world whiskies too.

..and on that note, onto our first post of 2013...

While planning a recent trip to NZ with my wife, I came across The NZ Whisky Company, a company who bottle and sell a variety of NZ single malts and blends under a few different labels. I'd actually tried their DoubleWood 10yo blend at the 2012 "World of Whisky" show in Sydney and found it interesting enough that we decided a visit was in order. Unfortunately there's no longer a distillery, so the visit was limited to the tasting centre (the barrel room was previously open to the public, but has since been closed). Regardless, with a diverse range of blends and single malts, how could we say no?

Located on the East Coast of the South Island in Oamaru (a 1.5hr drive from our Dunedin base of a few nights), we made the trip up and my wife kindly agreed to drive back. The town itself is actually very historic and has plenty of sights to see, but this blog post focuses on just the one..


The visitor centre offers individual tastings, barrel tastings, flights (focusing on blends, single malts, older varieties) and sells everything by the bottle too (including smaller bottles, which was perfect given I'd almost filled my duty-free allowance with pre-ordered whisky...). I started with a mixed blend/single malt flight, consisting of:


Diggers & Ditch Doublewood Blend (14yo, red wine barrel-aged, 41.5% ABV)
A big sherry nose and a big sherry hit on first tasting. If I'd tasted it blind, I'd have sworn it was a Tassie whisky (which shouldn't have come as a surprise, given I later learned it's a blend of Tassie and NZ whiskies). Not a bad drop, but I'd tasted better.
Rating: 84/100

South Island Single Malt 18yo (40% ABV)
Now this was more like it! Biscuity and light on the palate, with a light but very pleasant finish. A whisky I could happily sip all day.
Rating: 92/100

South Island Single Malt 21yo (40% ABV)
..even better. Building on the 18yo (they came from the same barrels), the 21yo had a much bigger mouth feel, with cinnamon and just a hint of peat (amplified with a few drops of water). This was my favourite of all the 10 I tried, and the one I took home.
Rating: 92/100

South Island Single Malt 24yo (40% ABV)
Given the impressive 18 and 21yo, I expected a similar profile, but with more character. What I got though was a nose of...fresh laundry? Weird, but that was my first thought. The palate was apples, sweet and fresh. Not what I'd expected. Not bad, but I preferred the 21yo.
Rating: 90/100
Steam train line running through Oamaru
We decided it was time to grab some lunch, check out a few other Oamaru sights, and return for a few more drams later in the afternoon...and so with palate cleansed and sights seen, it was onto round two. First up, a flight consisting of four single malts (3 at cask strength, listed as "anywhere from 49-60% ABV"): 

Milford Single Malt 15yo
To me, this had Glenfiddich (both 12 and 15yo) written all over it. Pear, a hint of cinnamon spice, with a bit of peat on the finish. One of my favourites of the day.
Rating: 92/100

Vindication Cask Strength 16yo
Similar pear/apple nose, with a taste that seemed younger than its 16 years, in comparison to the other aged whiskies on offer (considering all are aged in the same size barrels). Short finish too.
Rating: 89/100

1989 Cask Strength 22yo
As with the 16yo, but with peat on the palate and a lingering finish.
Rating: 91/100

1988 Cask Strength 23yo
This one had a lot going on, perhaps somewhat contradictory. Sweet, candy apple on the nose. Peaty palate and a long, warming finish. A few drops of water opened it right up and amplified the smoke.
Rating: 91/100

Doublewood 8yo "Preston's" (from the barrel)
This was an interesting one - very much an "in progress" whisky, they'd taken an 8yo Doublewood from a leaking cask, poured it into another cask, tapped it, and were offering drams straight from the barrel (quite generous drams for $4NZD too, I might add!)
Quite different to the 10yo DoubleWood, the nose on this was oranges...very pleasant. The palate was pretty much the DoubleWood 10yo, but with a hint of orange and raisins, and a softening from the 10yo (despite the whisky actually being younger). Not a terribly smooth finish, but all up a solid whisky, certainly worth a try, if for no other reason than the novelty value.
Rating: 88/100

Milford 20yr Single malt
Last of all was a complimentary taste of the Milford 20yo. Unfortunately, after so many whiskies my notes for this one just read "tried too many to be objective. Very nice."

Rating: Very nice/100 (hey, this was #10 after all...)


So after 10 drams and a few interesting stories about the history of NZ whisky, we were on our way. I can highly recommend a visit if you're ever in the area - there aren't too many NZ whiskies, nor too many places you can try such a diverse range of malts and blends from the one company, and it's always interesting to see what the rest of the whisky world has to offer. The staff were fantastic and (despite Sunday being their busiest day) always happy to chat about the Aussie and NZ whisky industries. 

A very worthwhile visit for some tasty and interesting drams!
 


Cheers, 
Martin.

Tuesday, 8 January 2013

Top Hong Kong Whisky bars

Updated 21st Jan 2020.

Back in 2013, we launched a list of "Top Sydney bars: The (sort of but not entirely) definitive list (of good ones)". We try to keep it up to date, and years later it's still one of the most popular posts on this blog (right next to, interestingly, this Glenfiddich post).

I'd been toying with the idea of a similar list for Hong Kong (especially seeing as we've already reviewed a few), but the bar scene here, whilst fantastic, is so ever-changing that it would be a nightmare to maintain such a list.

...a list of Hong Kong's best whisky bars though, I figured, should be much more manageable...and so, in 2015 I finally decided to turn the haphazard list I'd been keeping into my phone into a list for the blog, using the same format as our Sydney list (name, link, address, brief 1-2 line description, link to our review, and sorted by region).

Please enjoy, and if you think I've left any out (quite likely) please let me know!

Although note: we've seen quite a few HK whisky lists over the years and found a lot of them seem to include a few bars we wouldn't really consider "whisky bars". Having 30 commonplace scotch whiskies on the menu does not make for a "whisky bar", in our opinion, and so the list below tries to include only bars that focus, mostly exclusively, on whisky.


Central
-----------------
The ThirtySix (2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd). Named after The Macallan's 36 stills, this Jan 2019 launched bar has taken over the old Angel's Share space, with a complete refurbishment and a dimly-lit seductive decor. Highballs and whisky are the focus here, with an impressive selection of whiskies in the "vault" (where customers can also buy and keep their own bottle), and creative takes on the Highball (and other cocktails) co-designed by Proof & Company.*

Club Qing (10/F, Cosmos Building, 8-11 Lan Kwai Fong). Aaron Chan. Kennis Ko and Wu Kin San (Jack) run what is commonly referred to as Hong Kong's best whisky bar...and we're not one to argue. The specialism here is twofold - old and rare bottles (keep an eye on their Instagram for new arrivals), and Japanese whisky, (as if there was any doubt to their credentials with regards to the latter, a full set of Ichiro's Malt Cards greets you on entry). Prices are reasonable, half-drams are happily poured, their own bottlings are fantastic, staff are incredibly friendly/engaging/helpful, and the bar caters equally well to whisky fans and newbies alike. They only run a few tastings per year, but when they do, they're the sort of tasting you won't find anywhere else in Hong Kong. Think 1970s-1990s verticals of Macallan or Laphroaig 10, an exploration of Karuizawa across the decades, etc... The gold standard.

House Welley Bar eUnit A, 2/F Welley Building, 97 Wellington St). A new bar for 2020 (technically late 2019), from a few well-known people in the HK whisky scene. House Welley fuses modern design, with a large, airy space, modern lighting and a stellar collection of drams split by region, not just from Scotland but Japan, Ireland, Australia and other world whiskies. The owners' personal tastes are clearly reflected in the selection of drams, and you'll find everything from paper label SMWS bottles (try the 117.1 if there's any left!), rare Macallan, vintage Bowmores, single cask Yamazakis and everything in between. Sure to become a regular haunt for HK's whisky lovers.

Nocturne (35 Peel Street, Soho) - See our review here. If Angel's Share is mostly about Scotch, Nocturne is all about Japanese whisky (and wine). Intimate and dimly lit, with an interesting industrial-yet-warm interior, you'll find a great range of Japanese drams, all ordered from a Samsung tablet. The prices aren't cheap, especially for those who aren't used to HK whisky prices, but their selection is excellent.

Chinnery (Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd) - An intimate and old-school whisky den in the equally intimate and old school (yet unmistakably luxurious) Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong.

001 (97 Wellington St officially, although the most common entrance is via a hidden door in Graham St's wetmarket) - Located under popular whisky shop Liquor and Liqueur, 001 is probably most well-known as a cocktail bar, but don't overlook its whisky credentials. Single cask bottlings and rare, hard to find drams are commonplace here. Pricing is on the higher end for HK whisky bars, but it's worth a visit if you're looking for a unique dram. Get in early as it gets busy / selective on popular nights.

Butler Shelter (29/F, Asia Pacific Centre, 8 Wyndham St) - An outpost of the original Butler Bar in TST (see "Kowloon side" below). Small, quiet and very Japanese, the selection is limited but well-curated, the cocktails are expertly made (we once watched one of the bartenders spend 20 minutes just getting air bubbles out of the ice mould he was about to freeze) and the drams include something for everyone. Price-wise I'd say about "middle of the road" for HK whisky bars. Sadly closed as of Dec 2015.

Angel's Share (2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd) - See our review here. One of the classics. Cosy but large and open, with a fine selection of drams (with a focus on Scotch), and even their own cask. A popular spot for tastings (it's not hard to see why). Reasonably priced (considering good whisky is expensive everywhere in HK). Sadly closed as of Sept 2018


Sheung Wan
-----------------
Ginger (G/F, 12 On Wo Lane, Sheung Wan) - Ginger is only a few doors up from Ronin, but focuses more heavily on Scotch than Japanese whisky, in particular, lots of interesting IBs and distillery-only releases. If a sought-after bottle has been released in HK, you can probably bet Tony will have it within weeks, available by the dram at Ginger. A warm-yet-industrial funky interior, a decent selection of drams, a nice upstairs area (good for groups) and a great selection of Ardbeg (they're an official Ardbeg Embassy) make this a must visit. Prices are quite reasonable for HK, and they often have their own private bottlings on offer, which are well worth a try.

Whisky & Words (No 7, Shin Hing Street, Sheung Wan) - One of two openings in/around August 2018, Whisky & Words is a small, intimate whisky and cocktail bar with a great selection of recent OBs and IBs. Having a few whiskies here, followed by a cleansing Paloma at Coa (literally 10 metres away) makes for a pretty great night. 

Ronin (8 On Wo Lane, Sheung Wan) - A great place to go for Japanese whisky in HK, although it has to be said, bring your wallet. The selection is amazing (as is the food - seriously), but you'll pay for it. Looking for a rare Karuizawa, limited edition Yamazaki, single cask Akashi or the like? Good chance you'll find it here. If you're planning to visit on a Fri/Sat though, book early. It's small and incredibly popular.

SAFE Bubbles and Malt (Shop 2, 1/F Manhattan Avenue, 255 Queens Rd Central, Sheung Wan) - I wasn't sure what to make of SAFE at first. On the one hand, they have the credentials (former official SWMS bar, regular tastings, and one of the most insane collections of rare/expensive whisky you've ever seen in one place outside of perhaps The Macallan Bar Macau, or the Diageo Claive Vidiz collection), but on the other hand, with concrete flooring, coloured lights and lots of polished metal, it doesn't really feel like a traditional whisky bar. Then again, there's nothing wrong with breaking tradition. Prices are on the higher side (especially if you're used to SWMS prices in places like the UK and Australia), but as we've said, whisky isn't cheap in HK (thank the 100% tax we face here). You'll find drams here that you're unlikely to find anywhere else in HK (but make sure you also take time to gaze at / drool over the collection in the cabinets, which includes a 60 year old OB Glenfarclas and a Monochrome Joker).

Malt Whisky Bar (19 New St, Sheung Wan) - See our review here. The newest whisky bar on this list (as of November 2015). Tucked away in New St (though it's not hard to spot the orange facade), this bar has, like an increasing number of HK whisky bars, two collections of whisky - one that appears to be for show (or perhaps those with deep enough pockets), including rarities like Balvenie TUN1401s, Hibiki 30s and some OB Port Ellens, and the collection behind the bar, consisting of a more wallet-friendly selection (spanning a good section of the globe). Friendly staff and decent prices make this a definite option if you're in the area. Sadly closed as of Jun 2017


Wan Chai / Causeway Bay
-----------------
Casky (Shop 1 G/F, Golden Star Building, 20-24 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai) - The other August 2018 opening, Casky has already (in its first few weeks) held some fantastic events with some big names from the HK and Asian whisky worlds. We'll be visiting soon and will update this post with our thoughts.

Mizunara The Library (4/F, Kiu Yin Commercial Building, 361-363 Lockhart Rd, Wan Chai) - About as “Japanese” a bar as you can get in HK. Impeccable drinks and service, but quite expensive. Their range of Japanese whiskies is ever-expanding (and includes some photo-worthy gems), and the whiskies in the "library" of malts around the room are incredible, but you'll pay for them. Endo-san who looks after the bar here made me one of the best cocktails I've ever had in HK, but it was also by far the most expensive I've ever had in HK, at over $220HKD. But hey, quality costs. Update: On a recent visit we learned that the bar is happy to offer half and even one-third drams of some malts (like most whisky bars in Japan). We love bars that do that, as it brings a number of rare/expensive whiskies into the realms of possibility for a number of whisky fans.

b.a.r Executive Bar (27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St, Causeway Bay) - Part of the old brigade - touted as being a "private bar", but as long as you call and make a reservation, in our experience, generally open to anyone. A great selection of Japanese, Scottish and even a few Aussie drams, but not cheap. A good spot to find a few rare drams you might be seeking (for us, it was the 2009 Ardbeg Supernova).

The Canny Man (Wharney Guang Dong Hotel Hong Kong, 57-73 Lockhart Rd, Wan Chai) - Think Scottish pub and you're pretty much on the money. Over 100 drams available.


Kowloon side
-----------------
Tiffany's New York Bar (Lobby Level, InterContinental Grand Stanford, 70 Mody Rd, TST East) - A large (and ever-expanding) list, great staff, comfortable settings, low ceiling, regular jazz, frequent tastings and their own cask-aged whiskies all come together to make this one of HK's greats. If there's any doubt, just look at who visits when they're in town - David Stewart and George Grant, to name just two whisky legends who we've met at Tiffany's in previous years. Prices are fair and they also have good deals on bottles - including 2-for-1 on certain nights. Add a cigar terrace, and their annual whisky festival (Hong Kong Whisky Festival), and you've got a solid option for any whisky lover.

Butler Bar (5/F, Mody House, 30 Mody Rd, TST) - One of HK’s original whisky bars. Very Japanese. Quiet, unassuming, with typical Japanese perfection in bartending. Cocktails and drams alike are all excellent here. Prices are about middle of the road for HK.

Bar Buonasera (7/F, Mody House, 30 Mody Rd, TST) - No, that isn't a typo this place really is just two levels above Butler Bar, and like Butler, it's also an old-school Japanese bar with a strong focus on classic cocktails and fantastic (often Japanese) whiskies. An offshoot of the famous Osaka bar by the same name, Bar Buonasera HK will often open rare / hard to find Japanese whiskies by the dram, and they also host the occasional guest bartender, focusing on whisky cocktails.

Chin Chin (3/F, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, 18 Hanoi Road, TST) - Could initially be dismissed as your average hotel bar (live band, large, often full of business travellers) but before you write it off it, have a look at the Chinese decor/bar, and the drams within. Some rarities (with a focus on Scotch) and some good 2-for-1 specials at times. A nice place to drop into for one or two if in the area, or looking for a break from shopping at the (often sensory-overloading) K11 Art Mall!

Whisky Stables (Hullett House, 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Rd, TST) - HK's first "Whisky Ambassador" accredited bar sees a decent selection (including a few Mackmyras rarely seen elsewhere in HK), comfortable seating and great staff come together to make a comfortable and inviting whisky bar. Great for drinks before/after dinner at one of Hullett House's restaurants, or just for a dram on its own. The heritage building adds to the charm, and the terrace, albeit small, is a nice addition not often seen in HK's whisky bars Sadly closed as of 2019.


Other
-----------------

Parkview Whisky Bar (Lobby Level, Hong Kong Parkview, 88 Tai Tam Reservoir Rd, Hong Kong). Technically a members' and residents' only bar, Parkview Whisky Bar might seem small (it is), but the whisky collection is out of this world. In addition to a constantly-stocked back bar of rare and incredible drams (1946 Macallan Fine & Rare? Check. Blue Label Macallan 30s? Of course. Well-aged single cask Karuizawas? Yup. 1966 Sprinbank Local Barley, Moon Import Springbank, ceramics Bowmores? Check check check), the bar sees regular new bottlings come in two, from well-known IBs like Three Rivers, Acorn and Elements of Islay. A bit of a hike for those in Central, but worth it for some of the incredible drams on offer.

Cheers,
Martin.

* In the interests of full disclosure, I own a small stake in The ThirtySix.

Monday, 24 December 2012

Tasted #5: Glenfiddich 40yo

It's not too often you get to taste a 40yo whisky (especially one that retails for $3,299AUD per bottle), but thanks to the very generous blokes from William Grant & Sons Australia (who I shared a long chat with about all things 'fiddich at a recent Shirt Bar Scotch Club), that's exactly what I did recently.

Two days after the Scotch Club, a hand-delivered package arrived at work containing a taste of the highly-regarded Glenfiddich 40yo. Wow, I'd been told to expect "something special", and this exceeded my expectations. Certainly rarer than anything I'd ever tasted before.


Wanting to compare the 40yo to something a little more familiar in the range, I decided on the Glenfiddich 18yo as my comparison dram - as it's a solid, smooth, trustworthy dram yet still very much a 'fiddich. The day before Glenfiddich's 125th anniversary seemed as fitting a day as any, too...

With the Glencairn glasses charged, and most of the 15mL taste poured out (I had to leave a few mL for my best mate) it was time to try the 40yo.



Glenfiddich 40 year old (45.8% ABV, 40 years old)
Nose: Big, leathery, reminiscent of an old leather lounge. Aged oak, rich dried saltanas. Incredible.
In comparison, the 18yo (right, below) is harsh, brash, and just smells young and fresh (a pity really, given the 18yo is a great dram on its own).



Palate: There's that oak again, and the leather. And more. So complex, so much going on here. Not to get too wanky here, but if I had a grandfather who owned an old leather chesterfield in a room filled with 'rich mahogany", and I was sipping whisky, sitting there there, soaking up the atmosphere...this would be the whisky. I cant think of another whisky that has ever "transported" me somewhere, yet this has*. This is a very, very special whisky. After some time, the raisin/saltana taste comes through, and the smallest hint of smoke towards the end.
The 18yo is all about the spice, toffee and a hint of pear. A tasty drop, sure, but not a touch on the richness or complexity of the 40yo.


L: 12yo Glenfiddich (50mL): ~$7
R: 40yo Glenfiddich (15mL): ~$70

Finish: So incredibly long (I think it's still going as I write this). Oak and leather. Just incredible. A hint of peat too, as with the palate. I'm nosing the glass 25 minutes later and the nose still has all these characteristics.
The 18yo in comparison is over in the time it takes to read this sentence. Enough said.

Wow, there it goes - the most special whisky I've tried, ever. It's going to be a tough one to beat.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 98/100 (18yo: 93/100).

Cheers,
 - Martin.

*Actually I lie - there is one other whisky that instantly transports me somewhere, but for the wrong reasons. Ballantine's reminds me of my Schoolies cruise, over a decade ago (even the excellent 30yo, unfortunately, which to me still has that painfully obvious Ballentine's taste). 

Thursday, 13 December 2012

Shirt Bar Scotch Club - Glenfiddich (December 2012)

Has it really been a month since the last Scotch Club? Time flies.

Shirt Bar's Scotch Clubs have been steadily growing in popularity in 2012, and the final event for the year was no exception. With not a single free seat in the house, everyone was keen to try the offerings from the most popular distillery in the world, specifically:

  • Glenfiddich 12yo Signature Malt
  • Glenfiddich 15yo Solera
  • Glenfiddich 15yo Distillery Edition
  • Glenfiddich 18yo Ancient Reserve
  • Glenfiddich 21yo Gran Reserva


Not a bad line-up - particularly for a Glenfiddich fan like me!

The night started with a "Glenfiddich cooler" cocktail (cue initial thoughts of 80s Bogans downing West Coast Coolers...) which turned out to be surprisingly good. Light, low on the alcohol and a touch of fruit which worked really well - a great palate cleanser. Then it was onto the reason we all came...

Shirt Bar's Scotch Clubs all follow the same basic premise (talk about how they whisky is made, where it's made, what affects the flavour, then taste it) but each has its unique differences. In this case, it was a funky interactive presentation including a detailed video tour of the Glenfiddich distillery. Sebastien, a friendly French bloke and William Grant & Son's local Glenfiddich Ambassador talked us through the tour and tasting, starting with the 12yo and working our way through to the 21yo.

We also got to take a whiff of new make Glenfiddich (which I've tried once before at the distillery - it tastes just like a very, very young 12yo!) and a few different barrel finishes of the 15 and 18 (it's amazing how different oak can drastically change the colour of two identically-aged whiskies).

So on with the tasting...

One thing I find about Glenfiddich is that although there's a huge variation between the different ages/releases, you can always tell a 'fiddich. The 12 year old showed the signature pear nose and taste, as expected with a shorter finish, with a hint of sweetness on the (smooth) palate. In the company of such esteemed whiskies it can be easy to write off a "standard" malt like the 12yo, but it's still a fantastic drop, and very smooth given its pricepoint (one reason I always recommend it as a great "starter" single malt). The finish is a little harsh, but not overly so, and only when compared with its more mature siblings...

..like the 18 year old Ancient Reserve. A sweet cinnamon nose makes way for an equally sweet taste, but with plenty of spice. Cinnamon, toffee - less fruit than the 12yo (though still there), and more spice. A smoother, longer finish as expected.

The two 15 year olds were up next, and considering the similar lineage, are really very different. The 15 year old Solera showed the same sweetness as the 12yo, with more of a Christmas cake palate, and a slightly lengthier finish. The 51% non-chill filtered 15 year old Distillery Edition (a mixture of sherry and bourbon-aged 'fiddichs) however was all about the peppery, leathery palate. This easily had the most "presence" of all the whiskies we tasted, with a huge mouthfeel that lingered on and on. Cask strength whiskies (especially those like the 50.7% 1975 Private Vintage) can offering have an almost-overpowering palate due to the higher ABV. Not so with the Distillery Edition. To me, it was the perfect balance of big bold flavours without the harshness. My most memorable whisky of the night.

Lastly was the 21 year old Gran Reserva (which now comes in a much cooler package than the bottle I bought a few years ago). Interestingly, a few years ago this was known as the "Havana Reserve", but due to Cuban trade embargoes underwent a name change so it could be sold in the US. As the name implies, it's aged in Caribbean rum casks, and it shows. Sweet like the 15 and 18yo, but with a creamier, sticky pudding-like palate, and a long, smooth finish. I'm a big fan of sipping rums (Zacapa 23, Diplomatico to name a few) and if you look hard enough, you'll find similar tastes in the 21yo. A truly excellent whisky.

All up, a great night and an excellent Scotch Club on which to end the year. Glenfiddich is an approachable whisky and that was the approach the guys took to the night too. Sebastien and his colleague Mark were great to talk to and really made the night enjoyable (Mark also very kindly promised to send me a little taste of something special...whatever it is, a review will follow!).

Cheers,
Martin.

PS: On a related note - I've just put in an order for the next Glenfiddich Age of Discovery (Bourbon finish) as well as the (apparently quite peated) 125th Anniversary special. Picking them up duty-free in early Jan, so look out for posts shortly after!

Thursday, 6 December 2012

Tasted #4: Lagavulin 1995 Distiller's Edition (Pedro Ximénez Finish)

E.D.V isn't easy to find, but if you
head down Malthouse Ln in Melbourne's
CBD, and see this light, you're in the
right place
There's a little (read: massive) website over in the UK called Master of Malt who have an unbelievable selection of single malts, ship to Australia, and have very reasonable prices. Duty, shipping and import concerns aside, I've often thought about putting through an order, and top of my list will be the Laga '95 Distillers Edition (PX finish).

So when I saw it at E.D.V in Melbourne (sister bar to my favourite bar in the world, Eau de Vie in Sydney), I had to try it. The sweetness of Pedro Ximénez sherry, with the peatiness for which Lagavulin are famous? This had my name all over it.

As a bit of background, unlike some other distilleries, Lagavulin distinguish their "Distillers Editions" by the casks in which they're aged, rather than the strength at which they're bottled. In the case of the '95 (and others), the aging is done in ex-Spanish Pedro Ximénez (aka PX) sherry casks.

So how was it? As good as I thought! Read on...

Nose: Smoke/peat (yes this is still a Laga), but a hint of sweetness too. Call it raisins, caramel, whatever (actually, calling it PX sherry might be more accurate) - there's a definite whiff of sweetness.

Palate: Again, peat is dominant, but there's a definite sweet undertone. What the sweetness did for me was make the whisky much smoother. It's like a regular Laga, but much smoother and with a hint of sweetness, maybe toffee. A drop of water really accentuated the sweetness and toned down the peat too.

Finish: Long, lingering and smooth.

Ten word summary: Could sip this all night, but only if neat. Tasty.



I think I know what I'm buying myself for Christmas...


Friday, 30 November 2012

World Class Australia 2013 - First Round Qualifier

TimeforWhisky.com was lucky enough to be part of the Diageo Reserve World Class Australia 2013 First Round Qualifier last week, to experience 12 of Australia's best bartenders battling it out for 4 coveted positions in the 2013 Final.

Guests were asked to try 12 cocktails (3 from each category, based on Ketel One vodka, Tanqueray No. TEN gin, Bulleit bourbon and Ron Zacapa Rum) and vote for their favourite in each category via a clever passport (with voting slips) provided on entry.


We'll focus on the Bourbon cocktails (for obvious reasons), but to quickly cover a few standouts in the other categories:


  • Rob Libecans' "The Fly & The Loaf" Martini (Black Pearl, Melbourne) - Ketel One vodka, Lillet blanc, Liquor 43 vanilla liquor and reposado tequila. Served with carbonated grapes (which had to be tasted to be believed), this was not your usual Martini.
  • Andrew Bennett's "The Tanqueray Toffee Apple" (The Classroom, Perth) - Tanqueray No. TEN, apple cider reduction, grapefruit marmalade served with a toffee apple. Sweet and candy-like, exactly as the name implies.
  • Christian Blair's "Finca la Perla Zacapacino" (Eau de Vie, Sydney) - Ron Zacapa 23, coffee liquer, maple and chocolate bitters topped with aerated banana and toasted rice-infused tres leches sauce. We're big fans of Zacapa, but even we had no idea it was so versatile. An incredible cocktail.


Being a Whisk(e)y blog though, we (my wife and I) took particular note of the Bulleit cocktails - which were equal parts Americana, childhood memories and twisted classics.

First up (and our favourite) - Jessica Arnott of Gardels Bar's "1965 - An American Cocktail", which definitely wins the award for the best presentation. Created in the style of a Happy Meal, this wasn't just a cocktail, but a whole tray of goodies - including smoked peanut brittle, "Elvis" cake, and a toy (we got toy cars). The cocktail itself was made with Bulleit (duh), pumpkin-pie infused spirit, smoked maple syrup and chocolate bitters. Every bit a "Gardels' Bar" drink, if you've ever been. About as Rock-n-Roll as they come.


Next was Chris Hysted of Black Pearl's "The To-Go Drink" (sidenote - if you get the chance to try Chris' "Grounds for Divorce", do so. Talisker and Porter, with walnut liqeur and creme de cacao - magic.) Chris explained that the famous "Flip" class of cocktails was the partial inspiration for this, coupled with his experiences in New Orleans where cocktails could be taken on the trip home, "to go". Bulleit, spiced apple, vermouth and almond, this was a tasty number, made all the more fun by the fact that any onlookers would simply think you're drinking a takeaway espresso! Full marks for ingenuity.


Lastly was Tim Laferla of Mechanic's Institute's "A Diplomatic Resolution" - a heady number with Bulleit, cranberries, spice and "whiskey barrel smoke", pumped over the cocktails with a smoking gun (something I hope to have of my own soon!) I love a smokey cocktail, and an unexpectedly smokey cocktail even more so, so this was a winner in our books.



After guests had tried all 12 cocktails, the night ended with the lucky door prizes (in which yours truly won the above bottle of Zacapa!) and the announcement of the winners, namely:

  • Ketel One: Luke Ashton (The Roosevelt, Sydney)
  • Tanqueray No. TEN: Krystal Hart (Canvas, Brisbane)
  • Bulleit: Jessica Arnott (Gardels Bar, Sydney); and
  • Ron Zacapa 23: Christian Blair (Eau de Vie, Sydney).

All up, a fantastic night, and we can't wait for Round 2 in 2013! 

Tuesday, 27 November 2012

Tasted #3: Glenfiddich 18yo


Continuing on from the 1975 Private Vintage tasting, here's the second in my series of Glenfiddich "Tasted" posts.

Glenfiddich 18yo Ancient Reserve - a staple of the 'fiddich lineup for quite some time now. Not necessarily an everyday drinking whisky at $125AUD, but if you happen to be in a bar that serves it, you may find it's barely more expensive than the standard 12yo. I know of at least one bar that for a long while, was charging $12 for a Glenfiddich 12yo, $12 for a Glenfiddich 15yo, and $13 for the 18yo. $1 well spent if you ask me.

Anyway, we'll keep this one short, so on with the tasting...

Glenfiddich 18yo Ancient Reserve (43% ABV, batch 3301, $125AUD)
There's a subtle nose on the 18yo, but it's clearly a 'fiddich - sweetness with a hint of spice. On tasting, there's a big spicy first taste, which lingers to the very end. . If the 1975 is all about sweet nuttiness, this is all about spiciness. One standout characteristic is the short finish, especially in comparison to the (significantly older) 1975.

There's more subtlety  here than with the '75 - largely I imagine due to the lower ABV. The flavour does open up significantly with a drop of water, which may or may not be to your taste (I recommend trying every whisky with a drop of water at least once - especially non-chill filtered whiskies, if for no other reason than to see the  cloudy effect!).



Overall this is a solid Glenfiddich. If you're a fan of the distinct Glenfiddich taste, you'll find the 18yo a subtler, smoother version of the ever-popular 12yo. Highly recommended.

Rating: 93/100

Cheers,
 - Martin.

Monday, 19 November 2012

Tasted #2: Glenfiddich Private Vintage 1975 (Cathay Pacific)

As promised, this is the first in my series of Glenfiddich "Tasted" posts.

A few years after starting to collect Glenfiddich, I was flying to Hong Kong for work and noticed the in-flight magazine had an interesting bottle of Glenfiddich - a 1975 Private Vintage (no age listed), bottled from a single cask exclusively for Cathay Pacific.

Being a fan of Glenfiddich and interesting/rare spirits in general, I decided it would make a nice addition to the collection and ordered a bottle for my return flight. It was also significantly cheaper than other Private Vintage Glenfiddich releases (like this 31yo 1975 release for $600), at around $220AUD.

The bottle didn't list an age (nor did any of the documentation), and while it was obviously  "old", I was curious how old. I sent off an e-mail and got a reply a week or so later from Ian Millar (Glenfiddich's global brand ambassador), confirming it was bottled in 2007, making it a 32 year old Glenfiddich.

So on with the tasting...

Glenfiddich Private Vintage 1975 - Specially selected for Cathay Pacific (50.7% ABV, 700mL, 32yo)
Surprisingly sweet on both nosing and first taste. The first whiff confirms it's clearly a higher ABV than regular (12, 15, 18 etc..) Glenfiddich, and the taste confirms it. At 50.7%, it's almost bang on-par with Glenfiddich's cask strength 15yo Distillery Edition. This isn't a subtle whisky.



The sweet start turns into a complex, nutty taste, that sticks around for an incredibly long finish. I tasted this alongside a Glenfiddich 18yo (itself a great drop - tasting to be posted shortly) and what really struck me was just how long the 1975 lingered compared to the 18. The thing is - long after finishing the last sip, the main thing I remember is the alcohol strength, rather than any subtleties of flavour.

So, is it a good drop? Yes, absolutely. Is it an interesting, well-presented Glenfiddich you'd be happy to display? Yep again. Is it the best Glenfiddich I've ever tasted? No, to be honest I think I prefer the Age of Discovery 19yo Madeira finish (tasting to be posted shortly).

Rating: 91/100

Cheers,

 - Martin.

Thursday, 15 November 2012

Shirt Bar Scotch Club - Woodford Reserve (November 2012)

Scotch Club at Shirt Bar - a brilliant concept where every month or so, a bunch of like-minded spirits fans get together to taste dark spirits (usually Scotch, but occasionally rum, Australian whisky, or in the case of this Scotch Club - Bourbon whiskey). Usually led by a Brand Ambassador or the distillers themselves, they're informative sessions where attendees get to not only taste some top-shelf and often rare spirits, but also learn the inner secrets of distillation, and sometimes taste the product during its lifecycle (and then soak it all up with a pies, quiches, and a generous platter of breads/cheeses/olives and dips!).

Woodford Reserve was this month's focus, led by spirits guru and Brown Forman / Woodford Reserve Brand Ambassador Stuart.

Walking in and seeing only three empty seats (ours - apologies to Adam and Stuart for being late!), it was clear this was going to be a popular Scotch Club. It wasn't hard to see why either - with a  set of 6 tasting glasses in front of every seat, AND a 50mL take-home WR Distiller's Select for everyone.

Bourbon fans would probably be familiar with the regular WR (Distiller's Select), but rest of the range is rarely seen in Australia (typically limited to specialist shops like World of Whisky in Double Bay), so it was a treat to not only try 4 of the rarer releases, but also some fresh-off-the-still new make (aka "White Dog").

All up, we tasted:
  • Woodford Reserve new make ("White Dog")
  • Woodford Reserve Distiller's Select
  • Woodford Reserve Master's Collection Seasoned Oak Finish
  • Woodford Reserve Master's Collection Maple Wood Finish
  • Woodford Reserve Master's Collection Aged Cask Rye 
  • Woodford Reserve Master's Collection New Cask Rye

Woodford Reserve new make ("White Dog")
If you've tried new make before, you'll probably know what I'm about to say. A pure expression of the ingredients that go into the basic "spirit" (it's not a bourbon yet at this point), new make is crystal-clear and comes fresh off the still, before being placed into barrels for aging. It's potent, has a somewhat ethanol scent, and usually pretty rough (although in this case, surprisingly smooth). You wouldn't want to drink it every day, but it's worth trying at least once.

Woodford Reserve Distiller's Select (46.2% ABV)
It's amazing what 7 years of sitting in a barrel can do. Smooth, honey notes replace the harsh, raw taste of the new make. This is something you can easily drink every day.

Woodford Reserve Master's Collection Seasoned Oak Finish (50.2% ABV)
Woodford Reserve Master's Collection Maple Wood Finish (50.2% ABV)
Woodford talk about the "5 sources of flavour" (grain, water, fermentation, distillation, and maturation) and change just one of these for each of their MC releases. For these two  it's the maturation - aged for an extra 2 years (total 9 years), and in seasoned oak and maple wood barrels respectively. The Seasoned Oak has a deep mahogany colour and spice comes through clearly in both nosing and tasting, whereas the Maple Wood (to me at least) had strong leather characteristics. Both brilliant bourbons you could happily sip and savour all night long.

Aged Cask - you can see
how light it is due to being
aged in used barrels.
Woodford Reserve Master's Collection Aged Cask Rye (46.2% ABV)
Woodford Reserve Master's Collection New Cask Rye (46.2% ABV)
These were interesting - sold as a pack of 2 x 350mL bottles, these 100% rye whiskies only differ by the type of cask they're aged in. Hearing "100% rye" I was expecting something pretty overpowering, but was surprised at just how drinkable these were neat (at around $250AUD/pack, you probably wouldn't be mixing too many cocktails with them...). Smooth, rounded, and with none of that harsh bite you can get with some ryes. Opinions around the room were pretty evenly split as to the preferred rye - for me it was the Aged Cask.

Before finishing the night we were given a few interesting facts about Woodford Reserve, including:
  • ABVs all end in 0.2% (see above)
  • WR actually make their own barrels; and
  • Barrels are stored in temperature-controlled warehouses, which are purposely heated and cooled during the aging process.
All up a fantastic combination of great whiskey, great food and great conversation. I highly recommend checking out both Woodford Reserve and the next Scotch Club if you haven't yet!

Cheers, 
 - Martin.

PS: Google also tells me Australia is shortly getting the next MC release - "Four Wood". Can't wait to try it!

Monday, 12 November 2012

The Glenfiddich Collection

It was Glenfiddich that got me into single malt whisky in the first place, and while my tastes have branched out since (especially in the direction of Islay), I still count Glenfiddich amongst my favourite.

Looking at my spirits cabinet the other day, I realised I've amassed a bit of a Glenfiddich collection (including a few that aren't too common in Australia) and figured they'd form a good basis for an on-going series of blog posts. The collection (mostly collected during travels) currently has 13 bottles:

  • Glenfiddich 12yo
  • Glenfiddich 12yo Coaran Reserve
  • Glenfiddich 12yo Toasted Oak
  • Glenfiddich 15yo
  • Glenfiddich 15yo Distillery Edition
  • Glenfiddich 18yo
  • Glenfiddich Age of Discovery Madeira Cask 19yo
  • Glenfiddich 21yo
  • Glenfiddich 1975 Private Vintage for Cathay Pacific (32yo)
  • Glenfiddich Snow Phoenix
  • Glenfiddich Malt Master Edition Sherry Cask
  • Glenfiddich Cask of Dreams 2011 Limited Release
  • Glenfiddich Malt Whisky Liqueur (not pictured)


So mixed in with all my other posts over the next few months, I plan to include "Tasted" posts for all the above Glenfiddichs. Nothing too formal - really it's just an excuse for me to break them out and try them (some of them haven't been touched for a few years)!


Cheers, 
 - Martin.

PS: I'll update this post with links to specific "Tasted" posts once they're up.

Sunday, 4 November 2012

Infusions: Banana Jack Daniels


Step into a number of cocktail bars around the world these days and you'll be greeted with a list of spirits you probably never knew existed. Bacon Maker's Mark? Popcorn Goslings? Earl Gray Hendricks? Raspberry Tanqueray? Banana Jack Daniels? Welcome to the fun and experimental world of infusions.

Infusions are, in a nutshell, the mixing of a flavour with a spirit. They can be done in a number of ways depending on the ingredient - either by simply soaking the ingredient in the spirit for a number of hours/days, or by fat washing, whereby the fat from the ingredient (say lamb, duck or bacon) is infused with the spirit. Once the infusing is done, usually all that's left to do is strain, bottle and enjoy!

About a year ago I was at Gardel's Bar in Sydney (part of the excellent Porteño restaurant) and noticed they had a "Banana Old Fashioned" on the menu, made with Banana-infused Jack Daniels. Intrigued by the idea and blown away by the taste (and having a mostly-full bottle of JD at home), I was keen to give it a go. The bartender told me all I needed to do was soak some bananas in JD for a few days, strain it out, and I was good to go.

I should have asked which type of bananas...

After 5 days, I ended up with some incredibly alcoholic bananas, and about 30mL of banana-infused JD. The bananas had soaked up pretty much all the JD, leaving me with practically nothing. Squeezing, mashing, straining the bananas did nothing but make a horrible mess either.  I enjoyed the nip and resigned myself to the fact that the bananas had stolen my JD.

Fast forward about 6 months, I was chatting to a bartender at Newtown's great little Corridor Bar, who told me the trick was to use dried organic bananas. Not banana chips, but dried whole bananas. I rang a few Sydney organic shops and tracked them down at Taste Organic in Crows Nest, NSW ("Organic Mountain" brand if anyone is interested).

I cut them in half (each is about as big as an index finger), popped them in a container, poured JD over them (only 250mL at first, in case this attempt also failed) and let it sit for 5 days. I decided to use JD 1907 White Label, because it's about $10 cheaper than JD (good for if you're not too confident), and I figured the slightly lesser ABV (37%) might help the banana taste shine through.

Success! After a taste test confirmed this was very much banana JD, I gave it a quick strain (first with a colander, then with and funnel and cheesecloth), then poured in back into the bottle. Repeating the process with the remaining 500mL, I had an (almost) full bottle about 4 days later (the bananas still soaked up about 20-25% of the JD).

So - what to do with it now? I'd love to hear suggestions anyone has. Regular maple syrup with a few dashes of bitters seems to work pretty well, but I'm always open to ideas!

Cheers,
 - Martin.