One of those new(er) distilleries to recently come across my radar is Kangaroo Island Spirits, from (surprise surprise) Kangaroo Island in South Australia, South West of Adelaide. It's a place better known for its wildlife and wilderness than its whisky, but that may be about to change.
Kangaroo Island Spirits (KIS) was founded by Jon and Sarah Lark in 2006 as (this surprised me) Australia's first dedicated gin distillery (if that surname sounds familiar, it's no coincidence. Jon's brother is none other than Bill Lark, the Godfather of Australian whisky). Whilst gin was the focus, whisky was part of the longer-term plan, and around 2020 a brand-new 4,500L still was installed, making KIS the largest whisky distillery in South Australia. The whisky program uses locally grown Kangaroo Island barley, malted on the island and aged in ex-Bourbon barrel, Apera and Tawny casks.
Kangaroo Island Spirits Single Malt Whisky Aged in Bourbon Casks (43% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, South Australia, Australia, $135AUD)
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Colour: Straw.
Nose: Vibrant and zingy — fresh lime zest leads, followed by lightly toasted oat cakes and a clean, breezy freshness that speaks honestly to its youth, but without harshness.
Palate: Light in body, which suits the spirit character well. White pepper first, with a gentle vanilla sweetness and a touch of honey throughout. Clean and easy-going, with the ex-Bourbon cask providing a soft, sweet frame.
Finish: Short, with a pleasant honey spice trailing off.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 87/100 (Martin). A clean, well-made young spirit that wears its youth comfortably. The Bourbon cask has done its job without overstepping or overpowering — this is a solid foundation, and a good entry point into the range.
Kangaroo Island Spirits Single Malt Whisky Aged in Apera Casks (43% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, South Australia, Australia, $135AUD)
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Colour: Golden sunset.
Nose: Immediately more expressive - a burst of fresh-squeezed citrus leads the way, with orange juice and lemonade Icy Poles jostling for position. After a few minutes, some key lime pie notes emerge, lightly sweet and bright. The same youthful freshness as the Bourbon expression, but with a little more going on.
Palate: Follows the nose faithfully, which is often a good sign of a well-made spirit. Light and fresh, with Apera-derived sherry notes arriving gently - no heaviness or overt cask influence. Marmalade, mango and orange weave together nicely, making for a palate that's fruit-forward and enjoyable.
Finish: Medium in length, with mango, orange and a hint of peach lingering pleasantly. The fruitiness carries through well to the end.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 88/100 (Martin). My preference over the Bourbon cask - the Apera cask has added dimension and vibrancy without obscuring the spirit character. If Aussie whisky's best trick (even if not always done successfully) is deploying local wine casks without overpowering the spirit, this is an encouraging early example of that principle at work.
Kangaroo Island Spirits Single Malt Whisky Aged in Tawny Casks (43% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, South Australia, Australia, $135AUD)
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Colour: Orange gold.
Nose: Richer and deeper than the previous two — there's a step up in complexity here. Milk chocolate and sultanas are front and centre, with an almost Christmas cake warmth underneath. The Tawny cask has worked harder and left a more definitive mark than on the other two.
Palate: Still youthful, but the Tawny has had some more noticeable impact. Berries, plum jam and cherry pie all make an appearance, giving the palate a darker, more dessert-like character that sets it apart from the other two.
Finish: Medium to long, the longest of the three, with sultanas and dark chocolate hanging around in a satisfying way.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 88/100 (Martin). The most complex and characterful of the three, and a signal of intent from KIS. The Tawny casks have given this spirit a depth whilst still allowing the spirit to show.
Taken together, this is an encouraging debut. Youthful, but enjoyable, distinct, and a strong indication of things to come. The Bourbon Cask is clean and approachable, the Apera is bright and fruit-forward, and the Tawny is the standout for character and length.
The really interesting question (as with so many newer distilleries) is what these whiskies will become with another few years under their belt. The foundation is clearly there. Worth keeping an eye on.
Thanks to Kangaroo Island Spirits for the media samples.
Cheers,
Martin.
