Saturday, 26 December 2015

Starward / New World Whisky Distillery Tasting in Hong Kong (Tasted #234 - 238)

It's no secret here that we're big fans of Starward Whisky, from Melbourne's New World Whisky Distillery. Since that first time we sat down with then CEO and Founder David Vitale, and tried a sample soon after, we knew this was an exciting distillery - definitely one to watch.

Over the past few years we've become friends with David, catching up in various cities when travel plans aligned, and attending the various Oak Barrel tastings he's hosted in Sydney (first myself attending, now Hendy). So when David reached out recently to let me know he was coming to Hong Kong, and to ask if I was interested in arranging a small tasting for Hong Kong whisky folk, the answer was obviously going to be yes!

David was visiting Hong Kong for the HK Wine & Spirits Fair, and was kind enough to make time on a Friday night to share a few of his recent releases with a small group of friends and fellow whisky lovers.


The brilliant Tiffany's New York Whisky Bar were also kind enough to provide their venue and arrange an impeccable tasting setup - Glencairns, tasting mats, crystal water jugs, pipettes etc... all at quite short notice (thanks guys!) for what, it transpired, was Starward's first ever international tasting! Have to say I felt quite honoured to have arranged the first international tasting for what I'm positive will be a well-known international brand in a few years!

Up for tasting was a mixture of Starward's core lineup and a few of their "New World Projects" limited releases. Specifically, we tried:

  • Starward Single Malt Australian whisky New Make Spirit
  • Starward Single Malt Australian whisky (Solera)
  • Starward Wine Cask Edition Single Malt Australian whisky
  • New World Projects Port Double Cask Release #1
  • New World Projects Starward Limited Edition for Vintage Cellars Release #1
  • New World Projects "Project X" 3yo white whisky
  • New World Projects Small Batch Seasonal Gin - Korenwijn


The night was relaxed and casual (reflecting the Starward style), with the first hour or so seeing everyone standing around, chatting, having a beer or wine, and hearing some of David's stories. Eventually though it was time to take our seats, and listen to the story of Starward.


David introduced us to his whisky by explaining that he wanted to do something different, something that hadn't been done before. Not just another Sullivan's Cove, if you will. David's goal was to "do for Australian whisky what Australian wine did previously" - i.e. put it on the world stage. 

Attendees were a mix of whisky fans and industry people (who also happened to be hardcore whisky fans) and David managed to pitch the content at just the right level - technical enough without delving too far into the depths of true whisky geekdom. David discussed the barrel regime (re-coopered 50, 100 and 200L casks, most of Australian Apera heritage), their recent 5,000L solera vat acquisition (used to provide consistency to the core single malt product) and the Australian laws surrounding whisky production, which includes the somewhat hilarious mandate that, as well as being at least 2 years fermented mash aged in wood, the product must also "taste like whisky".

One product that isn't a whisky, but was on tasting for us, was the new "Small Batch Seasonal Gin - Korenwijn", which David explained as an unaged, triple-distilled malted spirit, not dissimilar to Genever. Whilst I didn't take detailed tasting notes, it was a great gin, and made a fantastic Negroni when I made one at home a few days later.


David also provided an interesting insight into the world of spirits excise in Australia (long known as being very unfavourable to distillers), and made the interesting point that a tonne of barley earns the government $400AUD in taxes if sold as barley, but $40,000AUD in taxes if turned into whisky...

After those interesting insights, it was time to delve into the tasting...


Starward Single Malt Australian whisky (Solera) (43% ABV, NAS, Victoria, Australia, $82.99AUD)
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Married in a 5,000L solera vat to ensure consistency from batch to batch.
Nose: Stone fruits and cherries. Some dried raisins and a hint of banana. Some vanilla. Some similarities with bourbon.
Palate: Fruity, and very smooth. More stone fruits, and apple especially.
Finish: Medium-length, Bourbon-like sweetness with some vanilla and caramel.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. I enjoyed this when I tried the very first batch (which I scored 90), and this just shows that the whisky has gotten even better since then.


Starward Wine Cask Edition Single Malt Australian whisky (41% ABV, NAS, Victoria, Australia, $80AUD)
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Given the distillery's proximity to Barossa, New World are able to get ex-Barossa Shiraz barrels overnight and fill them when still "wet". David describes this as the "complex" sibling to the easier, more light-hearted and laid-back solera single malt.
Nose: Creamy, milk bottle lollies, some caramel and loads of rich red berries - strawberries and blueberries.
Palate: Hugely rich and full-bodied - lots of cherries and strawberries, and some rasbperries, which then shift to this drying, slightly tannic taste. Lots to explore and it's all delicious.
Finish: Medium to long, tannic with big red berries continuing to the end.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. Different to the solera expression and yet still very much a Starward. Grab a bottle of both - you won't be sorry.


New World Projects Project X 3yo white whisky (42.1% ABV, 3yo, Victoria, Australia,  $80AUD)
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A three year old Australian single malt whisky that's clear as day?! Yep. Just don't ask David how and expect an answer (though we have a theory...)
Colour: Clear as day
Nose: Banana and pears, but also some oak!
Palate: Smooth - very confusing at first given it looks like a new make. Some toffee and some bananas.
Finish: Short with toffee notes to the end.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 89/100. Not overly complex, but smooth, unique and just very cool. Great in cocktails too.


New World Projects Port Double Cask Release #1 (48.6% ABV, NAS, Victoria, Australia, no longer available)
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Nose: Toffee and loads of Banoffee pie.
Palate: Smooth and rounded, with toffee notes but also quite a bit of citrus. Not dissimilar to a good, youthful Scotch from a good Speyside distillery.
Finish: Short and slightly drying, with some red berries.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100.


New World Projects Starward Limited Edition for Vintage Cellars Release #1 (48% ABV, NAS, Victoria, Australia, No longer available but Release #2 is $134.99AUD)
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Aged in an ex-Pedro Ximenez (PX) cask - a departure from Starward's more commonly used Australian Apera barrels.
Nose: Similar toffee notes to the Port Double Cask, but with lots of Christmas cake notes too - Brazil nuts and glacé cherries.
Palate: Oh wow, this is a whisky you can sit on. Big rich chewy caramel and soft toffee notes. Lots of fruit. Slightly flinty. Definitely Sherried - raisins, nuts, even some mocha. Delicious.
Finish: Long, sherried and with a slight earthiness.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100. Just excellent.


Whilst Starward isn't yet officially available in Hong Kong (well, outside of the collection in my apartment...) David plans to return next year, and we hope it won't be long before we see it being officially distributed here.

TimeforWhisky would like to thank David for giving up his time and whisky on a Friday night, and for giving Hong Kong a taste of Starward - hopefully a taste of things to come!

Cheers,
Martin.

Tuesday, 22 December 2015

Time for Whisky's Last Minute Christmas Whisky Gift Guide 2015

There are a lot of good Christmas whisky guides out there this year - via blogs, news sites, and of course online stores - covering everything from high-end whiskies, to budget whiskies, to accessories and more.

So rather than just replicate them, we've decided to keep it simple - 5 whisky gifts to suit 5 specific scenarios. Left it to the last minute to get the whisky lover in your life a Christmas gift? Read on...


1) "The recipient is a whisky lover. I'm not, but I want to get them something that shows I did some research"

The whisky: GlenDronach 15 year old

Why: GlenDronach has a huge cult following amongst whisky lovers and it's not hard to see why. While other distilleries who have previously been known for their "sherry bombs" have branched out into other casks for aging their whisky (mostly Bourbon), GlenDronach have stayed true to their roots, producing brilliant, heavily-sherried Speyside whiskies (that's a good thing). The 15yo is the sweet spot - delicious, every bit a quintessential sherried whisky, and punching well above its price point.

Be quick though - the 15yo won't be around much longer, as it's about to be discontinued for while. It's also highly likely not 15 years old - when you look at the distillery's history, and its closure from 1996-2001, you start to realise that today's 15yo bottlings could be up to 19-20 years old. This chart gives a good run-down.

Where and how much? $103.50AUD from Oak Barrel, $920HKD from Lillion Wine or £45.83 from Master of Malt (sold out currently though)

Want to know more?: Read Hendy's review of the line-up here.

From instagram.com/timeforwhisky




2) "I have no idea what they like. I want something safe and reliable"

The whisky: Balvenie 12yo DoubleWood

Why: The Balvenie is a Speyside favourite from William Grant & Sons, producing elegant, handcrafted, enjoyable whiskies that at the same time are accessible and won't break the bank. I've never met a whisky drinker who doesn't enjoy The Balvenie, and the 12yo DoubleWood is always a good, safe option.

Where and how much? $89.99AUD from Dan Murphys$568HKD from Merci Winery or £34.19 from Master of Malt

Want to know more?: We've written a LOT about The Balvenie in the past. You can find our notes on the 12yo DoubleWood specifically here.

From instagram.com/timeforwhisky




3) "I want to buy a whisky that shows I'm ahead of the curve"

The whisky: Starward Single Malt Solera Whisky

Why: You've missed the Japanese whisky bandwagon, but you don't need to (entirely) miss the Australian one. Australian whisky is already hugely popular, but it's not quite at Japanese levels yet, and still has a long, successful (and delicious) life ahead. With new distilleries opening up (some even in cities which haven't produced whisky for 161 years, like Sydney's Archie Rose), and still-young distilleries like Starward receiving grants of $10m AUD from the likes of Diageo, you just know that this is the start of something big.

Where and how much? $82.99AUD from Dan Murphys, hopefully available soon in Hong Kong, £46 from Master of Malt (currently sold out)

Want to know more?: Read our articles on Starward here, including tasting notes and even a tour of the distillery.

Pictured: Starward Wine Cask Edition



4) "I want to get them something slightly left-field, but it still has to be a great whisky"

The whisky: Blanton’s Straight from the Barrel

Why: Why limit yourself to Scotch? Bourbon is having a moment right now and for good reason - there are some bloody good ones out there. Blantons from Kentucky (famous for the rounded bottles topped by racing horse figurines) make some excellent Bourbon, and their "Straight from the Barrel" is highly regarded amongst whisky enthusiasts. At 60%+ ABV (sometimes 65%+), it's a serious whisky...just how we like it.

Where and how much? $199.99AUD from Dan Murphys$1098HKD from HK Liquor Store or £80.14 from Master of Malt (sold out at the moment)






5) "Money is no object and I want to show the recipient I really like/love/appreciate them by spending a whole stack of money on them"

The whisky: The Last Drop 48 year old Blended Scotch Whisky

Why: A 48 year old blend is a rarity in itself, but this one also tastes fantastic and, if previous The Last Drop releases are anything to go by, should be a shrewd investment too.

Where and how much? $5,500AUD from Dan Murphys$33,888HKD from Crown Wine Cellars. £2,600 from Master of Malt

Want to know more?: We have our very own tasting notes here.

From instagram.com/timeforwhisky


Cheers and Merry Christmas,
Martin.

Monday, 21 December 2015

dekantā - delivering Japanese whisky worldwide (Tasted #233: Monde Royal Crystal Whisky)

There's no doubt that Japanese whisky has absolutely taken the world by storm over the past 18 months (and yes, we largely have Mr Murray to "thank" for it). The craze that initially began with "silent still" whiskies like Karuizawa and Hanyu has since spread to pretty much any and all Japanese whisky (and even some Scotch whiskies) - including whiskies that barely a year or two ago could be easily found in almost any bottle shop.

Having taken 5 trips to Japan over the past 12 months, even in that time we've seen a huge shift - with many bottles simply no longer available, and those that are selling for huge price increases.

Yep, there's no denying it - the world is going crazy for Japanese whisky, and looks set to continue doing so for some time...

...which is where dekantā comes in. dekantā is an online store selling Japanese whisky, shipped world-wide. Their founders have been in business since 1985, but have only recently began focusing on their online presence. Their range is impressive (especially in this day and age), and whilst their prices are not what you'd call "cheap", they do have a number of bottles that are almost impossible to find anywhere, apart from auctions (where bottle provenance, authenticity and value can all be huge unknowns).


From "everyday" Japanese whiskies like Hakushu 12 and Mars Iwai Tradition, to rarities such as Yamazaki 25 year oldMars Maltage 25 + 3, Ichiro's Malt Colour Joker and plenty of Karuizawas, their range is about the most impressive we've seen (there's even a Yamazaki 35 year old, which we've never even seen in person). Whiskies from lesser known Japanese whisky producers also get a look-in, including:


Whilst clearly focusing on Japanese whisky, they also stock some Scottish whiskies (mostly independent bottlings), and even Amrut from India (whom we visited earlier this year).

Based in Japan, dekantā ship world-wide and list estimated shipping times on their website - generally no more than 10 working days, and often as short as 3 working days. To try out their service (and to prove that not everything they sell is an ultra-rare collectible),  dekantā recently sent us a bottle of Monde Royal Crystal Whisky - a 10 year old blend from Japan's "third" big whisky company, Mondeshuzo, based West of Tokyo in the Yamanashi prefecture. It retails on their site for $45USD.


Two things impressed me about the delivery - firstly the speed, which saw the bottle arrive in Hong Kong from Japan in 2 days, arriving to my office early in the morning, via EMS who I've found to be extremely reliable and speedy with deliveries from Japan. The second was the packaging - a beautifully hand-wrapped crêpe paper package with a bow, paper cranes, and a discount voucher for a future order. A package befitting of some of the rarer whiskies on their site, for sure, but it was nice to see that they went to this much detail for a $45USD whisky.

As you can see above, the bottle is certainly unique (and wouldn't be out of place in Ron Burgundy's liquor cabinet), but how does it taste?


Monde Royal Crystal Whisky (40% ABV, 10yo, blend, Yamashi Prefecture, Japan, $45USD)
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Colour: Orange gold

Nose: Grain notes remind you its a blend, but then you get this big fruity hit - passionfruit, strawberries, papaya, even some mango. Unexpected, to be honest.

Palate: Thin and grainy, there's a hint of maltiness and some apple notes, and a slightly smoky / rubbery note. Not unpleasant, but it doesn't live up to the nose.

Finish: Medium in length, with a hint of smoke and a hint of grainy earthiness.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 84/100.  An interesting bottle, with quite a decent nose, but with a palate and finish that don't back it up. Decent, but unlikely to excite hardcore single malt drinkers.

TimeforWhisky.com would like to say a big thanks to dekantā and Leah Alexander PR who provided this bottle for review, and for allowing us to try out their service.

Cheers,
Martin.

Saturday, 19 December 2015

This week in whisk(e)y #27 - Malt Masters Hong Kong returns, Starward investment from Diageo, PDT comes to Hong Kong, Suntory's limited Christmas releases, Limited edition JW Blue and new Chivas 12yo bottle design

As you might know if you read this blog regularly, we get a fair few interesting press releases and news articles here at TimeforWhisky, and usually try to feature them with our own spin, experiences or comments. Sometimes though, they come thick and fast, and we just don't have time to do them all justice.

So we've decided to take a leaf out of some other excellent whisky blogs, and feature a "PR roundup" every now and then - basically a wrap-up of relevant press releases we've received in the previous week or so (including other interesting whisk(e)y news Steph, Hendy & or I think you might enjoy). So on with it then...


Malt Masters Hong Kong returns
Sure to be even bigger and better than last year, Malt Masters Hong Kong is returning in 2016, to be held at Conrad Hong Kong on 27-28th February, 2016.

Steph attended last year and had a great time, especially at the masterclasses (which for 2016 will be announced on 3rd January). With 50+ distilleries, 10 masterclasses, unlimited drams and various pairing events (including food and cigars - both sure to be hits in Hong Kong), we're sure 2016's festival will be an even bigger hit than 2015's.


Tickets are $800HKD per person and include one "Dream Dram" token, unlimited regular drams, a Glencairn and canapés (at the time of writing, discounted tickets for the Sunday were still available for $600HKD). Tickets are available from Gormei now.



Suntory Whisky Celebrates the Art of Giving this Christmas (Australia)
Last year we broke news of a new Suntory x Akira Isagawa collaboration (straight from Akira himself, who we found ourselves sitting next to at the 2014 Suntory Whisky Sydney launch), which turned out to be a special release of various Suntory whiskies wrapped in a furoshiki - a traditional Japanese scarf. Whilst the collaboration with Akira doesn't seem to have continued this year, the furoshiki has - returning for Christmas in selected Dan Murphy stores.


"Available as a gift with purchase in the lead up to Christmas in selected Dan Murphy’s stores, the luxury furoshiki embodies the respect with which gifts are bestowed to friends and family in Japan during the holiday season.
Like origami, furoshiki is considered an integral part of Japanese culture. For 2000 years, furoshiki served as a special pouch to hold personal items. Today, the ancient custom has become fashionable in Japan as a beautiful eco-friendly, lasting wrapping for gifts.
The 2015 furoshiki was created in Japan and is inspired by the Tanabada Festival of sakura, or cherry blossom, famous throughout the world for their delicate and striking beauty. 
“Suntory Whisky is the perfect gift, and the furoshiki completes a Suntory Whisky present in effortless style. We will even have staff on hand to hand wrap the furoshiki for customers, as well as tastings of the Hakushu Distiller’s Reserve in selected stores.”
Just 400 furoshiki have been produced, and the limited edition scarves will be available in selected Dan Murphy’s stores* around Australia this weekend 4th – 5th December, and the 18th – 19th December as a gift to wrap any purchase of the House of Suntory’s Hakushu Distiller’s Reserve (RRP AU$88)"
No doubt these won't last long, given the popularity of any limited edition Japanese whisky these days...



Please Don’t Tell (PDT) comes to Hong Kong
Now this we're excited about. Please Don't Tell, or "PDT", the legendary New York bar (often credited with initiating the modern "speakeasy" style bar trend), is coming to Hong Kong in the form of a pop-up bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental from 5 to 30 January, hosted in collaboration with Diageo World Class.

Steph and I visited in 2012, and I can still remember the taste of their fantastic Benton's Old Fashioned today. Needless to say we'll definitely be going along to this one... (they're even keeping the phone booth!)

"In a first of its kind event in the bar world, PDT will be recreated inside The Shell at MO Bar. Guests will step into the bar through a hidden entrance, in a phone booth located upstairs. Once inside they will find a space that faithfully recreates every detail of the New York original. Jim Meehan, bartender, founder of PDT, author of the PDT Cocktail Book, and Jeff Bell, current head bartender of PDT and WORLD CLASS USA Bartender of the Year 2013 will be behind the bar making cocktails.
Martin Newell, from Diageo RESERVE in Hong Kong said: “WORLD CLASS is on mission to inspire people to drink better. Supported by the world's biggest bartender competition, WORLD CLASS aims to elevate the drinking experience of consumers by training and inspiring bartenders around the world and working together with bars, restaurants and hotels to elevate and foster a fine drinking cocktail culture. By bringing PDT, one of the world’s best bars and home to some of the world’s best bartenders to Hong Kong, we are giving local bartenders and consumers alike an opportunity to experience a truly unique drinking experience.”
Inside PDT there will be an exclusive menu of 12 drinks, these will be a mix of PDT classics and new creations crafted just for Hong Kong. Some of the drinks they are bringing to Hong Kong include the: ‘Benton’s Old Fashioned’ (Don Lee, Winter 2007) made with bacon infused Bulleit Bourbon, bitters and maple syrup; ‘Cardinal’ (Jeff Bell, Spring 2014) a rosy hued aperitif using Tanqueray No. TEN gin, a bittersweet aperitivo known as Casoni,, Italian red vermouth and a touch of grapefruit and lemon; and ‘1-2 Punch’, a Scotch and beer combination using the Singleton of Glen Ord, lemon, grapefruit, citrus oleo-saccharum topped with a crisp lager.
A menu of hot dogs will be offered alongside the cocktails, inspired by Crif Dogs, the hot dog stand that serves as the entrance to PDT in NYC. Richard Ekkebus, Culinary Director of Amber, has created his own hot dog and a menu featuring hot dogs from leading Hong Kong chefs; part of the proceeds of each hot dog sold will be donated to charity.
PDT HK opens inside MO Bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental on the 5th January, it will be open from 5pm to 1230am Tuesday to Saturday until the 30th January."

For reservations, contact MO Bar by phone: 2132 0077 or email: lmhkg-mobar@mohg.com 



Johnnie Walker Blue Label Special Release: Celebrating the Year of the Monkey
Following two previous annual releases (celebrating the Year of the Horse and Year of the Ram editions, Johnnie Walker is launching a third special release Blue Label, to celebrate the Year of the Monkey.


"JOHNNIE WALKER® BLUE LABEL™ Special Release: Year of the Monkey continues the tradition of Chinese calligraphy with blue brushstroke and golden hints. The bottle design features the energetic and joyful nature of monkey leaping fearlessly. When placing four uniquely white porcelain bottles side by side, the canvas unfolds to a stunningly beautiful visage, depicting monkeys leaping into the New Year with great joy and a daring spirit.
Drew Mills, Marketing Director of Diageo Brands noted, “JOHNNIE WALKER BLUE LABEL Year of Monkey Special Release truly marries the best of Chinese ceramic art with the very finest blend of Scotch whisky. This classic combination introduces unrivaled creative elements to the global whisky market, and I’m confident it will quickly become the premier choice for discerning collectors.”
JOHNNIE WALKER BLUE LABEL Special Release: The Year of Monkey will be available for sale at retail outlets in January 2016. (750ml/bottle)."


Chivas 12 year old re-design
We noticed something during our recent visit to the House of Chivas in Hong Kong. In the "Heritage Room", which charted the history of Chivas Regal back to the early 1900s through as series of bottle displays, what we've known as the "current" 12 year old bottle was not in fact, the last bottle on display. That honour went to this guy - the revised, 2015-onwards 12 year old.


"The new Chivas Regal 12 Year Old bottle retains the round generous shape for which it is renowned, while its shoulders have been raised higher to reflect the brand’s pride as one of the world’s leading Scotch whiskies. The brand signifier is now included as a more prominent, organic feature of the bottle, and the signatures of founders James and John Chivas have been added to the glass to display the value of brotherhood at the heart of the brand. The label has evolved to present a simplified and more vibrant look. 
The outer carton has been re-designed retaining the icons that hold depth of meaning and provenance to Chivas’ rich heritage, and select areas have been embossed and debossed to add a texturalised element to the packaging."
Same same, but different? We like it.










Congratulations Starward Whisky - $10m AUD investment including a minority stake from Diageo
Not so much a press release - more so a congratulations. Starward whisky (from the New World Whisky Distillery, whom we've become good friends with over the past few years) have recently announced the closing of an investment round of more than $10million AUD, including a minority stake taken out by Diageo

Let's just let that sink in a minute - spirits behemoth Diageo, who own brands such as LagavulinTalisker and Johnnie Walker, have taken out an investment stake in an Australian whisky distiller from Victoria who only filled their first barrel in 2010.

(We first heard about this a month or two ago, but now that it's been publicly announced, we're happy to be able to share the good news! The full press release can be found here.)

Clearly Diageo, see what I've been seeing in Starward all along - absolutely fantastic whisky. Look out for a write-up on a masterclass we helped host in Hong Kong (Starward's first international masterclass), which gave a few lucky Hong Kongers a taste of a number of stunning releases.

Well done David & team!




Thats all for this week. Until next time...

Cheers, 
Martin.

Sunday, 13 December 2015

Tasted #232: The Last Drop 48 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky

In May this year we brought word of The Last Drop Distillers' 1967 Glen Garioch single malt and 48 year old blended Scotch whisky being released in Hong Kong. In November we mentioned that those same whiskies were being released in Australia, in extremely limited numbers exclusively through Dan Murphys.


We've now been fortunate enough to try the 48 year old blended Scotch whisky, and have detailed our thoughts below. First though, a little more on the philosophy behind The Last Drop Distillers. Founded by three veterans of the spirits industry, who amongst them were responsible for whiskies such as Johnnie Walker Blue Label and Chivas 18 year old (clearly no strangers to a decent blend then...), The Last Drop Distillers are an independent bottler who, since 2008, have focused exclusively on extremely rare, well-aged spirits. In fact, seven years on, they've only produced five releases - the two aforementioned whiskies, a 1960 blended Scotch whisky, a 1950 Cognac and a 50 year old blended whisky.

Now, there are plenty of old casks out there, and plenty of them end up in the hands of independent bottlers (on this blog alone we've tried five 40 year olds, a 50 year old and a 60 year old - mostly indie bottlings). They're not always good, though. Sometimes, they're just a little too old, a little too past their prime.

When an independent bottler only bottles five such whiskies in 7 years though, and no other releases, you know they're only bottling whisky of a certain (extremely high) level of quality, as is the case with The Last Drop Distillers.

This 48 year old blended Scotch whisky, of which only 592 bottles were produced, proudly boasts that the youngest whisky within was laid down in 1965, and that some of the whiskies it contains came from distilleries which have since closed (the specific distilleries aren't named, however). It also boasts an impressive 48.6% ABV, and was awarded "Scotch Whisky of the Year" and "Blended Scotch Whisky of the Year" by a certain Mr Murray (my opinion of whom I'll leave out of this article...)


So....thoughts?

The Last Drop 48 Year Old Blended Scotch Whisky (48.6% ABV, 48yo, Blend, Scotland, $5,500AUD / $33,888HKD / £2,600)
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Colour: Golden sunset

Nose: A big, rich creaminess hits you first. Then you notice just how polished, or rounded this whisky is. Not a single harsh note, nor a note out of place....but it's also not subtle or dull either. There's a slight earthiness (upon further nosing - some oak too, reminiscent of our recent trip through some of Scotland's distilleries), some Irish Cream, some passionfruit too. Then some almond fingers, chestnuts, a little furniture polish and a little cinnamon. I even got some notes of mum's Christmas compote - specifically apricots soaked in brandy. There's a LOT going on here, and it's all fantastic. I came back to the empty glass an hour later - still amazing.

Palate: Wow, this is not your average blended whisky. Still some oak, but it's subtle and in perfect harmony with everything else, which includes some whole oranges, apricots, and some old Eau de Vie.

Finish: Quite long, smooth, and continuing the fruit theme with apricots and glacé cherries. Bitter dark chocolate enters the mix, as do some (again, subtle) oak notes. Everything is in perfect balance.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100. Simply a fantastic blend - one that has not only been crafted incredibly well, but has also aged just as well. We don't know the whiskies that make up the blend, but whatever they are, grain and malt, they (and the ex-Bourbon American oak casks they aged in) were all working in perfect harmony.
Note: I didn't add water to this, primarily because the sample was only 10mL, but also because I didn't feel it needed any. Some higher ABV whiskies can feel a little closed up without a few drops of water. This doesn't, at all.

TimeforWhisky.com would like to say a huge thanks to a sample generously sent by The Last Drop Distillers Ltd and DEC PR.

Cheers,
Martin.

PS: To read an excellent write-up on the 1967 Glen Garioch Single Malt, see The Whisky Ledger's thoughts here.

Saturday, 12 December 2015

The Balvenie Commission

Speyside distillery The Balvenie have always been known for their fine sense of craftmanship - evident in their floor malted barley (a technique practiced by only a handful of Scottish distilleries these days), their many craftsman working on site (some for over 50 years) on their stills and at their on-site cooperage (which Steph and I were fortunate enough to visit earlier this year, during a tour of the distillery), and their strong support of craftsmanship in other industries.

In fact, you need only look at this year's Balvenie Craft Fair and last year's Balvenie Craft Bar in Sydney to see the close relationship The Balvenie have with craftsman from a range of industries.


To further celebrate this relationship, The Balvenie have recently launched a new website called The Balvenie Commission, featuring articles, videos and photography that celebrates the world of craft and delves into the works of makers. Described as a "global hub for those passionate about making things by hand", the site also showcases The Balvenie’s commitment to craftsmanship through the results of its "Commission bursary", which has funded many collaborations with makers around the world.

Each month, the "Features" section sees guest writers bringing different perspectives on "craftsmanship", including a report from Cool Hunting on hitting the streets of New York City to meet local makers.



The "Commissions" section features articles on craftspeople who have been commissioned by The Balvenie. The site currently features articles on Scottish wood craftsman Sam Chinnery, James Rogan, a renowned documentary film-maker, and iconic London bespoke shoe-maker and leather goods specialist G.J. Cleverley & Co.

The last section of the site, covering Craft News, collates news from blogs and magazines around the world to ensure readers are kept up to date with all the latest stories from the world of craftsmanship.

I've always been a big fan of fine craftsmanship, having the philosophy that it's often better to spend a little extra for something hand-crafted that you know will stand the test of time, rather than something mass-produced that in all likelihood won't. Clearly The Balvenie have the same philosophy, which has been captured brilliantly in this new website (which we've already bookmarked and will return to regularly). As a starting point, we recommend this article on shoemaker G.J. Cleverley & Co, including a stunning handcrafted leather case made for The Balvenie Forty Year Old. This article on "the search for authenticity" is also worth a read too.

The Balvenie Commission is online now and can be found at http://www.thebalveniecommission.com/.

Cheers,
Martin.

Thursday, 10 December 2015

Bowmore Mizunara Hong Kong Launch Dinner at Lobster Bar & Grill (Tasted #229-231)

Last Tuesday was a pretty huge day for the whisky scene in Hong Kong. Not only was it the launch of the Chivas Regal Icon, it was also the HK launch of another rare, limited, and highly sought-after Scotch whisky. A certain Islay single malt (with Japanese heritage) which has garnered more than its fair share of discussion throughout the past few months....



I'm talking of course about the Bowmore Mizunara Cask Finish, which is now available (in extremely limited numbers) in Hong Kong. So limited in fact that it's only officially available from one place - Island Shangri-La's excellent Lobster Bar & Grill, which was recently voted 18th best bar in the world).

I have to say, I like the approach Suntory, Lobster Bar and distributor Asia Euro Wines & Spirits have taken with this whisky. Whilst the bar are selling whole bottles (at approximately $11k HKD), they're also selling the whisky by the dram (at approximately $700HKD for a 45mL pour). That might seem like a lot, but when you consider the price these retailed for in the UK, Hong Kong's 100% spirits tax, and the price they're now fetching at auction (and most likely going unopened), the pricing is actually pretty reasonable in comparison.



Asia Euro Wine & Spirits were kind enough to invite me to an intimate dinner to celebrate the launch recently, held (of course) at Lobster Bar & Grill. Beam Suntory's International Brand Ambassador John Cashman was in town for a flying visit, and gave his time to attend the dinner and talk us through the range of whiskies we'd be trying, including:

  • Bowmore 12 year old
  • Bowmore 18 year old
  • Bowmore 23 year old Port Cask
  • Bowmore Mizunara Cask Finish
  • Bowmore 25 year old

Having rated the 23yo as one of my absolute favourite drams of 2014, I was excited to be able to taste it again (along with the star of the show of course).



After a cheeky 23yo Port Cask to start the night (someone opened it - it would've been rude not to...), a delicious Bowmore Darkness 15-based whisky sour (with a sea salt rim - genius) and a chat with the affable Mr Cashman, we took our seats to survey the menu, consisting of:

  • Cancale oyster with salmon roe (Bowmore 12)
  • Assorted mesclun salad, avocado, beetroot and smoked salmon (Bowmore 18)
  • Pan-seared sustainable sea bass, young spinach, clams and oyster leaf (Bowmore Mizunara Cask Finish)
  • Parmesan Cheese with fresh fig (Bowmore 23 Port Cask and Bowmore 25).



I'd tried Oysters with Islay whiskies before, and always found them to be a good match, but had never tried the "Oyster Luge", which involves pouring a small serve of whisky into the oyster shell, and letting it flow into your mouth (luge-style) with the brine. Marvellous stuff - the dominant notes of the whisky (peat) and brine (sea) were both toned down, in favour of a deliciously smoky, slightly salty broth. Fantastic.

(Turns out Bowmore have illustrated instructions for how to do your own "oyster luge" on their website: http://www.bowmore.com/news/bowmore-oyster-luge/)


John then talked us through a little about the "Bowmore balance" (the philosophy that, unlike some other Islay whiskies, no one character dominates), and explained the influence of the sea air on Bowmore's famously maritime characteristics. Then it was onto the next course, with Bowmore 18. Smoked salmon and whisky is a hard pairing to get wrong, and this was no exception, with the complementary salty aftertaste of both the salmon and whisky working perfectly in tandem.


Next up was the meaty sea bass with the Bowmore Mizunara Cask Finish. Cleverly, this was a brilliantly simple dish (yet simultaneously the best fish dish I've had all year), which allowed all the characteristics of the Mizunara Cask Finish to shine. Full tasting notes on the whisky can be found below, but this was an excellent pairing which gave the fish a slightly sweeter note.


Thankfully we were each served a generous pour of the Mizunara Cask Finish, which gave us a good opportunity to give the "Mizu" a thorough assessment independent of the food. John introduced the whisky, explaining master blender Rachel Barrie's dream to finish a Bowmore in Mizunara, and how it finally came true when the Suntory acquisition allowed the procurement of three Mizunara casks from Japan (which I'd guess came from Yamazaki). Even post-acquisition, with Suntory only producing 200 Mizunara casks each year, and the oak's notorious difficulty to work with (being quite porous and prone to leaking), this was an impressive feat to pull off. Bowmore from the 90s was left to finish in the casks for 3 years in Bowmore's No.1 Vaults, before being bottled at 53.9% and becoming the whisky were were about to try...

Now, there's been plenty said about the price, the age (supposedly between 15-25 years, but without any age statement on the bottle), the popularity at auctions etc... so I'm not going to discuss any of that here. What I will do is focus on the liquid itself...

...which I have to say, is absolutely hands-down stunning in every way. Suntory have made a lot of claims about this being the "best of both worlds" (Japan and Scotland) and it's absolutely true - the best characteristics of Bowmore shine through, as do the obvious (but never overpowering) Mizunara notes.



Bowmore Mizunara Cask Finish (53.9% ABV, NAS, Islay Scotland, approx $11,000HKD / £650)
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Colour: Bright vibrant gold

Nose: Red apples, spice. Some desiccated coconut. Actually quite a lot of desiccated coconut. Sea salt.

Palate: Coconut, rice pudding, a hint of sea air. Hints of spice, hints of subtle peat smoke. Like a slightly smoky, coconut-dusted salted caramel macaron, with a little spicy honey on the side.

Finish: Long, some tropical fruits, salty, sweet, and still plenty of coconut (which for me, is a trademark Mizunara characteristic).

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100. Simply stunning - well and truly the "best of both worlds" that Bowmore claim it to be.


A hard whisky to top, no doubt, but it was nice to know we still had two stunning Bowmores left to try....

Bowmore 23 Year Old 1989 Port Matured (50.8% ABV, 23yo, Islay Scotland, £347.30)
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An interesting release in that this isn't a finished whisky, but rather a whisky that has seen a full 23 years in exclusively an ex-port Cask. Not be be repeated for quite some time.

Colour: Copper, maple syrup.

Nose: Goji berries, leather, cherry pie. Creamy.

Palate: Rich and intensely creamy. Oily and syrupy. Noticeable fig notes, lots of plums and red berries. Slightly dry but not too much.

Finish: Long, sweet, stone fruits and maple syrup.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100. I'm glad this is just as good as I remembered it.


Bowmore 25 Year Old (43% ABV, 25yo, Islay Scotland, $4,880HKD / £280)
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Colour: Coffee-copper.

Nose: Aged leather, lots of raspberry.

Palate: Thin initially (understandable given the previous two whiskies were 50%+). Brazil nuts and Christmas cake (obvious sherry influence here), some icing and some marzipan.

Finish: Marzipan, whole oranges and smoke right through to the reasonably distant end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100.


..and with that, it was time to enjoy one more dram of the Mizunara Cask Finish and call it a night, having had a day and night of absolutely fantastic drams.

TimeforWhisky would like to thank Asia Euro Wines & Spirits Hong Kong, Beam Suntory, Lobster Bar & Grill and John Cashman for a wonderful evening, and the opportunity to try the incredibly rare Mizunara Cask Finish.
Cheers,
Martin.

Sunday, 6 December 2015

Chivas Regal "The Icon" Hong Kong Launch - Lunch at the House of Chivas (Tasted #228)

We attend a lot of whisky events here at TimeforWhisky - a lot of really enjoyable whisky events. Between the events Hendy attends in Australia, and the ones Steph and I attend in Asia, we've probably covered 50+ events this year alone, and all of them have been great.

...but every now and then, an event comes along that sets a new standard, and manages to blow us away (in Sydney, Ardbeg Day sits in that category every year, as did this year's "Great Whisky Rumble"). In Hong Kong, that event for 2015 was clearly Chivas Regal's "The Icon" launch - at "The House of Chivas", held this week.


Actually, calling it an "event" doesn't really do it justice. Taking over Hong Kong's newest bar Foxglove, "The House of Chivas" spanned 5 days, 20 events, and saw a mix of media, industry folk, VIPs and others get together to enjoy lunches, dinners, a cocktail competition, social ventures, blending sessions, tastings, parties and of course plenty of Chivas Regal, including the incredibly rare "The Icon" (which we mentioned last month and which Hendy tasted recently at the Australian launch).


We attended a lunch (actually two - greedy, we know) and blending and tasting session with none other than Chivas Regal's Master Blender, Colin Scott. We'll cover the blending session in another post, and focus on the lunch / launch here, which also saw us revisit the fantastic Chivas Regal 25 year old.

From the moment we stepped into Foxglove, it was clear Stir PR and Pernod Ricard had left no stone unturned turning the entire venue into "The House of Chivas". Upon entering, we were first welcomed with a personalised key, and asked to hold onto it until the time came, then ushered into a hallway where our Tuxedo-wearing host explained a little about "The Icon" and the history of Chivas Regal, before a hidden door opened to reveal the "Heritage Room".



The "Heritage Room" (a library-like room filled with books, whisky and vintage cocktail equipment) contained a brief history of Chivas Regal, including bottles from the 20s, 40s, 70s, 2000s and today - the full history of Chivas Regal. We clearly must have looked thirsty, because before we knew it, we were offered our choice of welcome cocktail. Opting for the Chivas and Aperol-based choice, we found it the perfect antidote to the uncharacteristically humid winter's day outside.


After finishing our cocktail (and enjoying a brief chat with Colin), we were taken to the bar, shown our seats, and presented with a choice of three ingredients - cranberry, ginger or passionfruit. Opting for cranberry (with good friend of TimeforWhisky Eddie opting for passionfruit), we then watched as Chivas Regal's global brand ambassador Max Warner whipped up two stunning drinks, and served them alongside two large mystery boxes.



This was where the keys came into play - opening our boxes revealed two sensory items (for nosing), and two canapés - one sweet and one savoury. Certainly an interesting (and elaborate) take on the welcome cocktails and canapés!

After finishing our cocktails, it was off to yet another room (by this point we're starting to get a taste of Foxglove's huge-by-Hong Kong-standards 4,300sq ft) - the "Icon Room".



As the name might suggest, the "Icon Room" was where we got to see the Icon up close and personal, and watch a brief video explaining the background and philosophy, which Colin later elaborated on. A lot of ultra premium whiskies carry incredibly intricate and detailed bottles and packaging, and "The Icon" was no different - with a handblown crystal decanter (by the UK's Dartington Crystal), and an impressively detailed leather case. Of course it's all about the liquid inside, and Colin explained more about that over lunch.


After our tour, it was time to visit the dining room and take our seats for lunch. At each of the forty places was a trio of Chivas Regals (Brothers' Blend, Extra and Chivas Regal 18), and our menu. Rather than a traditional pairing menu, guests were invited to sample each whisky with each course and choose what worked for them (a trend we're seeing more and more these days - and one we enjoy).


Pernod Ricard Sales & Marketing Manager Murray Lang welcomed guests, before handing over to Colin, who talked us through a brief history of Chivas Regal - starting with the Chivas Regal 25 (which was introduced in 1909, disappeared during prohibition and didn't re-emerge until Colin brought it back in 2007), and introducing The Icon - likening it to Hong Kong ("an iconic city"), and explaining the increasing thirst for ultra-premium blends in Hong Kong and the broader Asia Pacific.

We learn from Colin that "The Icon" is not a "Limited Edition", but a "Limited Release", with only 1500 bottles released in 2015 (10 destined for HK), and 1800 to be released in 2016. Colin explained that the philosophy behind "The Icon" was to include "nuggets of lost distilleries" - little flavour nuggets from distillers no longer in operation - whilst staying true to the Chivas Regal style. Whilst those nuggets will differ from year to year, the overall style and profile will stay the same. We'd love to know a little more about the composition of the whisky (i.e. the oldest whisky, the youngest whisky, which closed distilleries were included etc...) but the focus with The Icon seems to be on the flavour as a whole, rather than the individual whiskies that make up the blend (fair enough). We did get a little more insight later in our blending session.


Lunch consisted of two courses followed by a tray of stunning petit fours. We found the first course (Loch Fyne Smoked Salmon Tartare, Crisp Toast and Cauliflower Cream) paired best with the Brothers' Blend - the smooth confectionary notes of the whisky blending well with the salmon's saltiness and the cream's tartness.

The second course (Seared Wagyu sirloin, glazed baby carrots on potato quenelle and sautéed French beans) matched the heavily-sherried Extra brilliantly (though also paired well with the 18).



After finishing our courses, the lights dimmed and the distinct sound of a sole violin could be heard, getting louder. The curtains opened and a violinist entered, followed by waiters carrying trays of domes, under each, a Riedel Vinum whisky glass glass. Hmm, what was this?

Colin then got up to introduce it as the Chivas Regal 25 year old, and explained that whilst there are no records of the original composition from 1909, it was known to contain Strathisla at its heart, just as the current release does today.

Chivas Regal 25 (40% ABV, 25yo, Blend, Scotland, $2,980HKD$379.90AUD£165.79)
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Colour: Golden Orange
Nose: Peaches and fresh summer fruit salad (I have to say though - I'm not a big fan of the Riedel Vinum whisky glass for nosing).
Palate: Huge (considering we're only talking 40% ABV) but very smooth. Almonds, marzipan. Cadbury dairy milk, caramel. Hazelnuts! Definitely a dessert whisky.
Finish: Long with a smooth milk chocolate (not dark chocolate) hint.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100, and very enjoyable with nutty milk chocolates (which there just so happened to be several of in front of us!)

After several hours enjoying brilliant cocktails, food, whiskies and company, it was time for a few of us to join Colin in the "Icon Room" for an intimate blending session and, most importantly, a tasting of "The Icon" itself - but we'll save that for another post in a few days.


TimeforWhisky would like to say a tremendous thanks to Pernod Ricard Hong Kong and Stir PR Hong Kong for the invitations to all the wonderful events at the "House of Chivas".

Cheers,
Martin.