Tasted #384: GlenDronach Single Cask 1995 19yo Cask #4941

Over the last few years I've been building up a bit of a collection of GlenDronachs, in particular their single casks. Personally I find it a fantastic distillery, making brilliantly-sherried whiskies at a very reasonable price (although prices have been rising lately).

This one is from their 11th batch of single casks (they're just about to release Batch 16), and was one of the first "GDSCs" I bought. It started my love of ex-Oloroso GlenDronachs, and I've been buying them up ever since...

GlenDronach Single Cask Batch 11 Cask #4941 1995 19 Year Old (57% ABV, 19yo, Single Malt from an ex-Oloroso Sherry puncheon, Speyside, Scotland, was £75.79ex-VAT but no longer available)

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Colour: Dark amber-copper (or as some would say - "correct").

Nose: Earthy at first. Then varnish/furniture polish, leather, tobacco and Brazil nuts. Beautiful nose. With water it becomes a little more earthy, a little more dusty.

Palate: Initially citrus-sweet, then moving onto rich mocha caramel. Sweeter and spicier than the nose, with hardly any of the furniture polish / leather from the nose. Water does add a little bit of those characteristics though.

Finish: Long, citrus-y and warming. Slight tannic astringency, which vanishes after a few drops of water.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale):  92/100. A very nice whisky but if the palate matched the nose, it would be absolutely incredible.

Cheers,
Martin.

Tasted #304 - 305: Compass Box "Enlightenment" and "The Circus"

It was only a few months ago we wrote about Compass Box's transparency campaign, and tasted a few samples they'd kindly sent our way. Fast forward to last week, when another package appeared on the doorstep, this time containing a generous sample of each of Compass Box's latest offerings - "The Circus" and "Enlightenment".

Enlightenment continues the Transparency campaign by setting out to:

"...encourage the industry to consider the absurdity of a system that prevents producers from telling consumers exactly what has gone into the whisky they are drinking."

Pretty hard to argue with that logic. A limited run of 5,922 bottles worldwide, Enlightenment is bottled at 46% ABV, non chill-filtered and at its natural colour. It contains malt whiskies from Clynelish, Glentauchers, Balblair and Mortlach, making it a blended malt rather than a blend.

The Circus, on the other hand, celebrates old parcels of pre-blended Scotch Malt and Grain whisky (married in Sherry butts) that Compass Box recently uncovered, and is said to be a combination that displays magic, "like the very best of circuses". A limited run of 2,490 bottles worldwide, The Circus is bottled at a slightly higher 49% ABV and, like Enlightenment is non chill-filtered and bottled at its natural colour. It contains Malt whisky from Benrinnes and blended Scotch and Grain whiskies from refill sherry butts.

Compass Box "Enlightenment" (46% ABV, NAS, Blended Malt Scotch whisky, one of 5,922 bottles, bottled by Compass Box, Scotland, £49.54)

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Colour: Light, pale straw.

Nose: Candy apples and fresh green apples. So fresh and vibrant. There's a little freshly cut grass, but apple overhwelmingly dominates here (in a good way). I can't recall a recent whisky exhibiting so much apple.

Palate: More apples, but dusted with cinnamon. Lots of fresh fruit (pears, apples, lemons) and quite a lot of spice. Very smooth and the ABV feels "just right". Apple pie with a dollop of cream on the side.

Finish: Short to medium in length, with cinnamon spice and some orange zest.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. Really very good. Judging by the fact that 95.7% of the liquid comes from 1st fill barrels, but the colour is so light, I'm guessing most of the whisky is relatively young...but who cares? This is a fantastic whisky and a testament to what a talented blender can produce. This could easily become a go-to summer whisky.

Compass Box "The Circus" (49% ABV, NAS, Blended Scotch whisky, bottled by Compass Box, Scotland, £154.17)

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Colour: Orange-brown.

Nose: Trademark sherry notes initially, but without any hints of sulphur. Sultanas, nutmeg, dried apricots and some whole oranges. Vibrant, clean, fresh. 

Palate: Big smooth caramel notes - rich and instantly mouth-filling. Lots of dried fruit, pot-pourri, brazil nuts. There's oak, but it's perfectly in check. There's a big maltiness too. At a guess, there's some pretty old malt whisky in here.

Finish: Long, rich, hazelnuts and burnt toast.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. Another "luxurious", delicious, drink-me-right-now dram from Compass Box. Can these guys do no wrong? 

TimeforWhisky.com would again like to thank Compass Box for the generous samples.

Cheers,
Martin.

Tasted #276: Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016

***HYPE HYPE HYPE***

We've certainly heard a lot of it since the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 Edition was announced (see our initial post from January here). One bloke says he likes the 2013 version, and the world goes nuts over the follow-up release. 

Limited to 5,000 bottles (1,500 for Japan, 3,500 for the rest of the world), we've seen retailers charging huge markups and bottles being auctioned for 5, even 10 times the recommended retail price (which was £200, $300USD and $450AUD...if you were lucky enough to find one at retail).

So, with all this hype, we wanted to try it and make a call for ourselves. If the 2013 was so great, and this is basically the same juice with an additional 3 years of maturation (which we learned from Mike Miyamoto recently), perhaps it really is that amazing? Perhaps the hype is justified...?

Let's find out...

Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 Edition (48% ABV, NAS, Japan, £200 / $450AUD / $300USD)
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Colour: Deep, deep brown-red-copper. Incredibly dark. Almost black. Easily one of the darkest whiskies we've ever tasted.

Nose: Trademark heavily-sherried Yamazaki (we've tried a few, like these ones, these ones, these ones and especially this one) - coffee, mocha, roasted brazil nuts, sherry-soaked raisins. Huge, juicy, full of cherries. Absolutely beautiful nose - one of the best in a while. A few drops of water brings a freshness and a creaminess that wasn't there without. So far so good!

Palate: Drying, tannic, and oaky. Too oaky!? There's Ribena, dark chocolate, dates, sultanas. With some water - milk chocolate. There's a bit going on here, but there's an underlying theme of "oak" I just can't shake. I haven't tried the 2013, but if this is the 2013 with 3 extra years...perhaps it didn't need them? Hate to say it, but whilst it is enjoyable, it does feel a little over-oaked.

Finish: Long, tannic, and quite bitter - hints of Campari!

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100. It was an absolute pleasure to get our hands on a bottle and taste this, and it's a quintessential Japanese sherry bomb...but we just can't help but feel it's had a little too long in oak. Mind you, that nose - wow, stunning.

Cheers,
Martin.

PR #30: Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016

It took the whisky world (perhaps that should be the whisky auction world) by storm when a certain Mr Murray voted the 2013 release as "World Whisky of the Year" last year, and now it's back, with the iminent release of the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016.

Sure to be an instant sell-out, the 5,000 bottle worldwide release (246 for Australian bars and retail stores, HK release figures unknown) from Suntory is due next month.

There's scant detail on the rest of the "cask collection" (these releases usually consist of 4 different bottlings - a Mizunara cask, a Bourbon cask, a Puncheon and the Sherry cask) but since Mr Murray's award, it seems the Sherry Cask is the one on everyone's radar.

With only 5,000 bottles to be released, we're sure Suntory could use any old sherry casks and still sell out in minutes - but instead they've taken the same base as popular 2013, with an additional 2 years maturation, and thrown in some additional malts over 25 years old. Sounds like a winner to us.

We're hoping to get our hands on a bottle in the coming weeks, so we can let you know our thoughts. In the mean-time - here's the official press release:

"Suntory Whisky, the pioneer of Japanese Whisky, will launch the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 into the Australian market in February 2016. The Yamazaki Sherry Cask has been created for lovers of complex, refined, yet subtle tastes. Only 246 bottles will be available for sale in specialist whisky retailers and bars.

In 2015, Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible awarded the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013 “World Whisky of the Year”. The new 2016 blend incorporates the same whiskies that created the 2013’s base with an additional two years maturation as well as adding various rare sherry cask single malt whiskies, some of which are over 25 years old.

Created by Chief Blender and Great Grandson of founder Shinjiro Torii, Shinji Fukuyo, the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 is a deliberate design, choosing from over a hundred malt whiskies. While sherry casks are both revered and feared for their strong character, Shinji Fukuyo selects only casks that hold a delicate balance of chemistry between the Yamazaki malt, and sherry cask, thereby enhancing Yamazaki’s characteristically rich and multifaceted flavour.

“Shinji Fukuyo has designed a journey in this whisky. The Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 is undeniably where Spain meets Japan in the form of a whisky. To fully enjoy this journey, Fukuyo recommends the whisky first be served neat to showcase its nose. On its own, there is a clear and fresh top note. A raisin-like, deep sweetness that is both elegant and rich,” Narelle McDonald, Beam Suntory Marketing Manager for Premium Brands, said.

“You immediately taste the complexity of this liquid, and the fine balance of maturity and delicateness. Served on the rocks, the flavour opens as you begin to taste the Delaware grape-like sweetness and its slightly bitter acidity. When cut with water, there is a soft sweetness that blossoms like the first apples of the harvest,” said McDonald.

Sherry cask whisky has been a constant staple of the Suntory Whisky portfolio since 1924; a year after the distillery began construction. Shinjiro Torii started making Suntory Whisky in sherry casks imported from southern Spain, which he had originally used to blend his famous Akadama Sweet Wine.

Today, Chief Blender Shinji Fukuyo visits the Northern region of Spain himself to ensure that it is his selection of Spanish oak to be sent to the “bodegas” sherry wineries to be made into sherry casks used to store their Oloroso Sherry. Fukuyo carefully oversees this entire process, from the selection and making of the casks, to the charring, and the aging of their sherry. After three years of aging, the sherry casks are sent back to Suntory Whisky, ready to receive what becomes the distinguished Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky."

(We've met Fukuyo-san twice now, and had no idea he was the Great Grandson of Shinjiro Torii. Nice guy, great blender AND from Japanese whisky royalty! Cool.)

The Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 will be available in selected specialist whisky retailers and bars from February 2016, priced at $450AUD RRP.

Cheers,
Martin.

Tasted #243: Mars Komagatake "Single Sherry Cask" bottled for Mitsukoshi Isetan (Cask #1436)

Turns out that when I was in Japan recently I'd picked an excellent week to be there. Not just because of Whisky Live / Modern Malt Market, but also because a few limited Japanese whiskies were released that week (and as most of you would know, if you put the words "limited" and "Japanese whisky" together, the result is typically a quick sell-out).

One of those whiskies was a 3 year old single sherry cask Mars Komagatake, bottled at 58% for the large department store Isetan. I spotted this one when wondering around the store's basement level, and noticed it was available for tasting, along with another "Super Heavily Peated" release. Whilst the tastings didn't come as cheap as Liquors Hasegawa, 1000yen (approx $11.50AUD / $65HKD) seemed a very fair price to pay for a (generous) sample of each.

I enjoyed both, but preferred the sherry cask and took home two bottles (one of which was subsequently polished off in one sitting with a few good friends a few weeks ago).

I was lucky I bought them when I did, as the "Super Heavily Peated" sold out while I was there, and I heard the sherry cask sold out just a few hours later.

That's Japanese whisky these days I guess!

Mars Komagatake "Single Sherry Cask" bottled for Mitsukoshi Isetan (58% ABV, Cask #1436, 3yo, one of 297 bottles, Nagano Prefecture, Japan, no longer available)

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Colour: Light straw (it looks darker in the photo).

Nose: Sherried peat, with some bananas. I actually had to check to make sure I hadn't switched the glasses - there was quite a lot of peat on this one (I hadn't - there was even more peat on the "Super Heavily Peated").

Palate: Big zingy peat hit at first. Lots of rich caramels and smoked meats. Mocha notes too.

Finish: Long, ever so slightly hot, and full of smoky barbecued meat. Smoked pork neck at the very end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. Clearly young, but very very enjoyable (which might explain how a few of us polished off a bottle in one sitting...)




Cheers,
Martin.

Glenfarclas tasting with George Grant (Tasted #212 - 216)

Having run this blog for a few years now, we're lucky to get regular invites to various industry / media / trade events - many of which you end up reading about here. There's still the odd event though that we stumble upon completely by chance - this one being a perfect example. 

A few weeks ago I was at Tiffany's New York Bar in the Intercontinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong, enjoying a cold beer (respite from the stifling summer heat) ahead of an epic Islay whisky dinner, when I got chatting to their affable resident manager John. In the course of conversation, John mentioned that in just over a week, George Grant of Glenfarclas (Brand Ambassador and 6th Generation family member) would be hosting a tasting at the bar, and would I be interested in joining? You don't have to ask me twice! This would be the second noted Speyside figure I'd be meeting in Tiffany's in just a few months (the other being David Stewart of The Balvenie, back in June), and a good chance to speak to "the man behind the brand", after Steph and I had just visited the distillery a few weeks earlier.

There are some great whisky bars in Hong Kong, and Tiffany's (in our opinion) sits up there with the best of them. The range mightn't be the largest in Hong Kong (though it's quickly getting there), but they have an eclectic mix of IBs, OBs, and even some of their own cask finished whiskies (and if there was ever a bar with a décor that screamed "whisky bar", this would have to be it. Warm, welcoming, classy, elegant.)

Arriving on a hot Monday night, we took our seats and admired the lineup of drams, consisting of:

• Glenfarclas 12yo
• Glenfarclas 17yo
• Glenfarclas 25yo
• Glenfarclas 105
• Glenfarclas "Mystery Malt" (which we knew was a Family Cask, and later turned out to be the 1995 Release IX)

Having been to our fair share of tastings over the years, we've discovered there are brand ambassadors / master distillers who really need to work to hold the attention of a room, and there are those to whom it comes naturally. George clearly falls into the latter group, with his open, honest and humorous demeanour befitting his family-owned distillery perfectly.

Explaining the family naming convention (John, then George, George, George, his father John, and George himself), George recalled being slightly shocked at first seeing a grave with "his" name on it (actually his grandfather's), but slightly more at ease when he walked into one of the warehouses and realised there were also 55,000 casks of whisky with his name on them (enough to put anyone's mind at ease, we think).

Translating to "Valley of the Green Grass", Glenfarclas remains wholly family-owned to this day, which makes their global reach (76 markets until they added the Caribbean, bringing the total to 102 countries) all the more impressive. It was interesting to note that Germany is their largest market, and was the sole driver for their recent "Trilogy" series. George also had some other interesting insights, such as the myth of the "great Chinese whisky market" (which in his opinion, doesn't exist) and the growth he's seen in whisky in HK, having previously lived here for 12 years.

After a few more anecdotes and (truly interesting) insights into different whisky markets, we dived into the tasting...

Glenfarclas 12 year old (43% ABV, 12yo, Speyside, Scotland, $600HKD / $89.95AUD)
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Colour: Golden caramel (ironic given Glenfarclas' staunch lack of caramel colouring)
Nose: Flint, spice, a hint of smoke. Definitely sherried, but a "fresh" sherry - vibrant and youthful.
Palate: Spice, cinnamon, oat cakes and Brazil nuts. Slightest hint of smoke.
Finish: Medium length, spicy. Slightly "thin" towards the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100. A simple, easy drinking, every day dram.



Glenfarclas 17 year old (43% ABV, 17yo, Speyside, Scotland, $1,100HKD / $160AUD)
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Originally released exclusively for Japan, then HK, then other Asian markets, and now everywhere.
Colour: Orange gold
Nose: Well-rounded and sweet. Dried fruits, cherries. Almost port-like notes, and a lot of crème brûlée.
Palate: Smoother than the 12, but still with some of the spice the 12 showed. Much sweeter though, more "chewy", and more legs on the glass. More mouth-filling, more Oloroso notes.
Finish: Medium to long. The spice tones down and the Christmas cake notes amp up. Lots of Brazil nuts.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100.



Glenfarclas 25 year old (43% ABV, 25yo, Speyside, Scotland, $2,400HKD / $189.90AUD)
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Colour: Bright orange.
Nose: A hint of flint, orange peel, a little crème brûlée, and strangely, a hint of salty sea air.
Palate: Much more sherry influence than the nose suggests. Lots of raisins and other dried fruits, nuts, but also big citrus notes.
Finish: Long. Slightly drying, bitter dark chocolate-dipped orange slices.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100.



Glenfarclas 105 (60% ABV, NAS, Speyside, Scotland, $790HKD / $119.95AUD)
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George's grandfather's favourite apparently - so much so that he was secretly squirrelling away 6 bottles a week - 3 from George, and 3 from George's father!
Colour: Dark copper.
Nose: Huge toffee notes. Overwhemling(ly good). Dark chocolate. Thoughts instantly turn to dessert.
Palate: Big, slightly hot, lots of dark chocolate. A few drops of water adds some heat and orange zest.
Finish: Long, slightly hot, but smooth. Oranges and toffee.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100. Yes please.



Glenfarclas Family Cask 1995 Release IX (55.2% ABV, 17yo, Speyside, Scotland, no longer available in HK / AU it seems)
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I tried this a few weeks earlier at the distillery, and enjoyed it just as much the second time around. As the notes show, quite different to the previous drams!
Colour: Dark dirty copper.
Nose: Sugary sweetness - cola bottle lollies, and some pine nuts. Quite a mix!
Palate: Honied sweetness gives way to Brazil nuts, all with an undertone of those cola bottle lollies (which I loved as a kid). Unique, different...which really is what you want when you're paying significantly more than the standard 17yo!
Finish: Medium to long, with some residual barbecued meat notes at the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100.

Soon after the drams were tasted, out came a birthday cake - it turns out it was George's birthday! (Lucky him, getting to spend it with us.)

Happy Birthday George, and thanks for a fantastic tasting (and for signing my bottle of £511.19s.0d)!

Keep an eye out for our write-up of the Glenfarclas distillery tour shortly.

Cheers,

Martin.

TimeforWhisky.com would like to thank InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong for the invite, and George Grant for giving up his time (on his birthday no less).

Glenmorangie tasting lunch with "Dr Bill" Lumsden at Sevva (Hong Kong)

Ask anyone who's met "Dr Bill" Lumsden before (even Hendy who attended the Tùsail dinner in Sydney earlier this year) and they'll tell you he's one of the funniest, nicest, down-to-earth whisky blokes you could ever meet. Knowledgable as anything, witty, friendly and always quick with an interesting story.

Luckily, I had the opportunity to meet Dr Bill at a tasting lunch in Hong Kong this week, and I can confirm they're 100% right.

Dr Bill's business card reads "Director of Distilling, Whisky Creation & Whisky Stocks", but he's more commonly known as the man behind the modern day successes of both Ardbeg and Glenmorangie, a pioneer of wood finishing, and a man who takes a highly scientific approach (putting his PHD to good use) when it comes to whisky production.

Dr Bill was very briefly in Hong Kong before embarking on a broader Asian tour, and took time to present to media and whisky fans at Hong Kong's Sevva, where he presented four Glenmorangie expression matched to five stunning courses.

The lunch was not to launch or promote any one specific Glenmorangie expression, but rather to celebrate them all, with a careful selection including Glenmorangie Original (10yo), Glenmorangie 18yo, Glenmorangie 25yo and Glenmorangie Signet. After a brief cocktail on Sevva's stunning terrace (a simple lemonade, Glenmorangie Original and ice, which was extremely welcome on a hot Hong Kong Summer's day) it was time to take our seats and hear from the good Doctor.

After first explaining the (many) giraffes placed around the room (a reflection of Glenmorangie's unique long-necked still design), Dr Bill opened with a few jokes, an insight into his drinking habits (preferring younger whiskies generally, and typically drinking Glenmorangie Original despite "being able to fill a bathtub with 25yo" if he wanted) and then introduced us to the first course and its whisky pairing - Glenmorangie "The Original" 10yo (40%).

1st Course: Double Brie Cheese, Mozzarella, toasted walnuts, pear & beetroot salad with raspberry vinaigrette.

The simple (but deliciously fresh) cheese and salad plate paired well with the 10yo Original, with the delicate floral notes of the latter pairing surprisingly well with the robust cheese and nutty flavours of the former.

Being seated right next to Bill (along with good mate Eddie of Barrel Concepts) gave us a great opportunity to chat - about Glenmorangie, Ardbeg, Ardbeg's recent space experiment, wood finishes, the popularity of Japanese whisky, ageing, barley varieties, rugby and golf. Oh, and about a little experiment Dr Bill is in the middle of, involving Ardbeg aged in Russian Oak. Although coy on the details (when asked for his thoughts on the impact Russian Oak has on the spirit, he said to ask again in 2 years), Dr Bill did suggest that the project (codenamed "Ardbeg KGB" within the distillery), could well be a future Ardbeg Day release. We've seen "Islalympics" (2012), Archaelogy (2013), Soccer World Cup (2014) and Space (2015) as themes, so can we expect to see a Russian-themed Ardbeg Day in the near future? Perhaps.

If so....you heard it here first!

Next up was the Glenmorangie 18 year old (43%), which sees ageing in ex-Bourbon casks first, with 1/3 of the whisky spending its final 3 years in Oloroso sherry casks. The "Chanel No.5" of whisky, as Dr Bill put it, with lemon, honeysuckle and (to our palate) some raisins and red grapes. 

2nd Course: Scottish smoked salmon, horseradish & pan-fried sea scallop and mango salsa

3rd Course: Ms B's Risotto: Asparagus, pumpkin, baby peas, porcini with saffron risotto & chopped arugula, scented with a hint of white truffle oil.

The 18 year old paired well with both dishes, especially with the salmon, where the honeysuckle and lemon notes played off brilliantly (salmon and whisky is always a good match, we find).

Next was the "grandfather" Glenmorangie 25 year old (43%), of which Dr Bill only makes 500 cases per year, and describes as "very difficult". Initially made as a one-off in 2001 (for the Taiwanese market), demand in Asia grew to the point where it became a world-wide, core part of the lineup. Dr Bill admitted it can be "inconsistent", but previous awards, including Best 15+ year old Single Malt Scotch in recent years have cemented its place as an extremely good dram.

The whisky starts life in ex-Bourbon barrels, where it remains for ~20 years, before 25% is moved into sherry casks, and 25% into French red wine casks. You get the feeling that Dr Bill loves to play around with casks, finishes and ratios, and trust us, that's a good thing for whisky drinkers the world over!

4th Course: Grilled lobster with bouillabaisse reduction

The 25 year old was another good pairing, adding a spiciness, nuttiness and even juiciness that wasn't present when eating the lobster on its own. Definitely one of those pairings where the whisky enhances the food.

The final dram of the day was the Glenmorangie Signet (46%). Signet, which we tasted way back in the year it was unveiled - 2008 (at the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh) is clearly a passion project for Dr Bill, who called it the "biggest challenge of his career", with origins going back to the 90s. Using barley roasted like coffee beans ('high roast chocolate malt'), Dr Bill said he worked on Signet in secret for years, with the only giveaway being that "the distillery smelled like a Starbucks". Aged for 12-13 years, Dr Bill felt it didn't reflect the Glenmorangie style enough, so he set about seeing what could be added to bring the vision to life.

"What could be added" ended up being Glenmorangie from:

• Designer casks (giving the creaminess)
• 10yo ex-Bourbon whisky further aged for 5 years in ex-sherry casks
• 10yo ex-Bourbon whisky further aged for 5 years in toasted virgin oak casks
• Some secret casks; and
• A dressing of 35-45 year old Glenmorangie.

Wow - only Dr Bill could come up with something like that. Actually, that's not true, but to produce something like that and make it taste as fantastic as it does - that takes skill like Dr Bill's.

5th and final Course: Espresso ice cream & chocolate fudge cake

It can be easy (or easier) to match whisky with dessert, but regardless, this was the highlight pairing of the day, with the rich mocha notes of the Signet matching perfectly with the espresso ice cream and chocolate orange cake (with candied orange rind on top).

A fantastic end to a brilliant lunch, having met one of Scotland's true whisky visionaries (who also just happens to be a really top bloke).

Martin, "Dr Bill" Lumsden and Eddie

Cheers,

Martin.

TimeforWhisky.com would like to say a huge thanks to Dr Bill for his time, and to MHDHK for the invitation.

Bar Review #17: The Brandy Library (New York City, USA) (Tasted #204-209)

Steph and I recently returned from a 3.5 week world trip, taking in (amongst other places) Scotland and the US. On a similar trip with my dad in 2009, I'd stumbled across a great little bar in New York City's Tribeca, Brandy Library, and was impressed with both their selection of whiskies and the friendliness (and knowledge) of the staff, not to mention their unique decor - very much a "library" of spirits.

Fast forward to 2015, and it turns out not only is Brandy Library still thriving, it also now boasts the the very capable, very knowledgable Marlon. Marlon (a good friend) previously lived in Hong Kong (where he ran The Whisky Library) and prior to that, Singapore (where he manned the bar at The (old) Auld Alliance). Quite the International man of whisk(e)y. Marlon moved to NY recently and it was great to catch up and share a few drams, and re-visit a favourite New York whisk(e)y bar.

Located in the heart of Tribeca (and literally across the road from the Ghostbusters Fire Station), Brandy Library is an intimate space offering a variety of spirits, but with a large focus on both brandy and whisk(e)y. The whiskey focus here is definitely American, but with an enviable selection of Scotch, Japanese and other whiskies, and an especially impressive selection of miniatures on display.

Most bars have the majority of spirits behind the bar, perhaps another cabinet or two for particularly well-stocked bars, and maybe (in the cases of bars like Sydney's The Baxter Inn, or Sydney/Melbourne's Eau de Vie) a separate room. At Brandy Library though, the spirits envelope the room, with the walls quite literally covered in rare bottles (and ladders for those hard-to-reach bottles, emphasising the "Library" aspect).

So...with an incredible selection of spirits from around the globe, where to start? Well we'd spent our time on this trip in Japan and Scotland already, so I figured it was time to really explore some American whiskies. Marlon was quick to suggest a custom "Librarian's Craft" flight, and who was I to argue?

Bernheim Original Small Batch Kentucky Straight Wheat Whisky (45% ABV, 7yo, Kentucky, USA)
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Colour: Orange gold.
Nose: Marmalade, cloves and some oaky spice. A little pepper.
Palate: More marmalade but even more spice and oak. Thin on the palate, but with a citrusy sweetness that makes it enjoyable to drink neat. Not overly complex and not likely to knock anyone's socks off, but a very sippable, enjoyable dram.
Finish: Short to medium, some oats.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100.

Angel's Envy Port Finished Bourbon (43.3% ABV, NAS, Kentucky, USA)
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Colour: Red amber.
Nose: Sweet, rich berries. Not that far from a decent, somewhat sherried Scotch.
Palate: Roasted hazelnuts, spicy vanilla, and some toffee. A bourbon, yes, but a richer, more rounded one. Some raspberries round out the enjoyable if not overly complex palate.
Finish: Short and spicy - none of the port influence evidence on the nose or palate.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100.

"The Spirit School Series" Bourbon bottled for Brandy Library by Prichards Distillery (44% ABV, NAS, Kentucky (distilled, matured) and Tennessee (further matured), USA)
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This was is an interesting one. The label states both "Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky" and "Hand-bottled exclusively for Brandy Library by Prichards Distillery, Kelso Tennessee". A little digging reveals that whilst Prichards make much of their own whisky (and rum), this particular spirit is someone else's Bourbon (distillery unknown), and I believe has been re-barrelled for a time at Prichards in Tennessee before bottling.
Colour: Deep red amber.
Nose: Paprika and oak tempered with sweet, velvety caramel and burnt demerara sugar.
Palate: Huge spice, but herbal, vegetal. Creamy and syrupy mouthfeel.
Finish: Long with some sound cream and chives! Not expected, but welcome.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. Who cares where it comes from, it's good whiskey!

Orphan Barrel Whiskey Distilling Co "Barterhouse" (45.1% ABV, 20yo, Kentucky, USA)
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There's been much written about Diageo's well (over?) hyped "Orhan Barrel" series, but the one line version is: Diageo "uncovered" a bunch of rare, old Bourbon casks at Stitzel-Weller in Louisville, Kentucky, and bottled them in Tullahoma, Tennessee (presumably at George Dickel). This is one of their first releases.
Colour: Bright gold.
Nose: Vanilla, toffee, some sugar but with orange peels and grapefruit.
Palate: Very spicy - could be confused for a rye, it it wasn't for the overwhelming sweetness - marshmallow, vanilla toffee and still some citrus notes, again, orange peels.
Finish: Medium length, spicy. Warming but slightly hot at the very end.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100.

Parker's Heritage Collection Original Batch Cask Strength Kentucky Straight Wheat Whiskey (63.4% ABV, 13yo, Kentucky, USA)
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Colour: Deep red copper.
Nose: Creamy pecan and pumpkin pie, without any cream or sugary sweetness.
Palate: Huge. Hot, spicy, almost no sweetness, but a touch of rich vanilla and sour lemon at the end.
Finish: Sour and hot, and very long. Sour to the very end.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100.

Jim Beam "Distiller's Masterpiece" Bourbon (50% ABV, NAS, Kentucky, USA)
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Now this was a surprise. I knew Jim Beam made a few rarer / older expressions (and I knew they were better than regular Jim Beam White Label, of course), but this was a huge delight. 10-12yo Jim Beam finished in PX Sherry Casks, bottled at 50% ABV? They even sold it at Dan's for a time!
Colour: Red copper.
Nose: Sweet American cherry (you know that flavour that's in everything? Yeah, a hint of that). Very, very sweet, but certainly not unpleasant.
Palate: Maple syrup, cherries, hints of oak and a touch of rye spiciness. Incredibly smooth throughout. Balancing that fine line between sweetness and spice, and managing to be incredibly smooth without feeling "thin" or watered-down.
Finish: Medium length with lots of red berries.
Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100. A winner. A bourbon I'd consider buying, even.

Brandy Library can be found at at 25 North Moore Street, New York, NY and is open:

• Sunday through Wednesday 5 pm to 1 am
• Thursday 4 pm to 2 am; and
• Friday and Saturday 4 pm to 4 am

Go say hi to Marlon and the gang, and try some of the most interesting American whiskies you're likely to come across.

Cheers,

Maritn.

Tasted #175 to #180: GlenDronach 12, 15, Cask Strength Batch 3, 18yo Single Cask, 22yo Single Cask and 24yo 'Grandeur'

The first time we covered GlenDronach was back in February 2014, when Martin attended the inaugural launch of The Wild Rover's "Campbell Corner Whiskey Co-Operative" (CCWC). Roll forward one year later and here we are, re-united with the graceful GlenDronach once again. As many people would attest, GlenDronach is quite well known for its heavy sherry influence, often becoming people's 'sherry-bomb' favourite, along with the Macallans, Aberlour A'bunadh and the like.

Truthfully though, over the past year, I have grown fond of sherry cask matured whiskies - notably as I find the use of sherry casks tend to add a beautiful lightness and sweetness to the final expression - a treat for any occasion. Though this isn't necessarily true in all cases, as with the Glenmorangie Taghta, which was matured in an ex-Manzanilla sherry casks and exhibited a more salty, maritime profile to the expression.

So, after hearing about GlenDronach over the year and with my curiosity on the heavy sherry influence, I jumped at the opportunity [Martin: about time!] to sit in on the GlenDronach tasting when the masterclass was announced by The Oak Barrel.

Dave Withers of The Oak Barrel, now the Distillery Manager at Archie Rose Distilling Co in Sydney introduced the GlenDronach range, only after confessing to being a big GlenDronach fan himself. 

The GlenDronach line-up on the night included:

• GlenDronach 12 Year Old 43%
• GlenDronach 15 Year Old 46%
• GlenDronach Cask Strength Batch 3 54.9%
• GlenDronach 1995 18 Year Old Cask #3025 51.1%
• GlenDronach 1991 22 Year Old Cask #1346 52.1%
• GlenDronach Grandeur 24 Year Old Batch 5 48.9%

GlenDronach 12 Year Old "Original" (43% ABV, 12yo, Highland, Scotland, $79AUD)

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A rich, sweet and creamy single malt expression that has been matured in ex-PX and Oloroso sherry casks.

Colour: Dark copper

Nose: Vanilla at first, building up to some maltesers and toasted oats.
Palate: You can taste the sherry influence immediately, creamy, hints of orange rind, dried spices and cherry ripe.
Finish: The finish is reasonable, dry with a lingering toffee sweetness.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100. A nice and balanced expression, one that you could perhaps drink on any night of the week.

GlenDronach 15 Year Old "Revival" (43% ABV, 15yo, Highland, Scotland, $105AUD)

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A deep, sweet and leathery single malt expression matured in Oloroso sherry casks.

Colour: Dark 'burnt' caramel

Nose: Loads of raisins.
Palate: The palate is rich of sultana and raisins, hint of orange peels and dried spices.
Finish: The finish is dry.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100.

GlenDronach Cask Strength - Batch 3 (54.9% ABV, NAS, Highland, Scotland, $160AUD)

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A lovely No Age Statement expression, both on the nose and on the palate derived from the mixing of malt aged in Oloroso and PX casks.

Colour: Rich, dark caramel

Nose: Raisins and rich dark chocolate.
Palate: The palate is full of sultanas and raisins with a hint of citrus, perhaps orange peels and a note of that chocolate from the nose.
Finish: The finish is long, extremely long and dry with dried spice remnants that linger with you for a while and more. Stunning.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100.

GlenDronach 1995 18 Year Old Cask #3025 (51.1% ABV, 18yo, Highland, Scotland, not available in Australia)

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A truly remarkable single cask expression with a concoction of sweet cocoa, spices and PX sherry. My favourite expression of the night and one for any occasion.

Colour: Dark caramel.

Nose: The nose opens to cinnamon, cloves, a hint of tobacco and after a while, there's smoked ham in there also.
Palate: There is loads of sherry on the palate, which is creamy, rich, with a coating of dried spices. The palate gradually develops to notes of raisins and sweet cocoa.
Finish: Similar to Batch 3, the finish is extremely long with lingering spices and cocoa.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100.

GlenDronach 1991 22 Year Old Cask #1346 (52.1% ABV, 22yo, Highland, Scotland, not available in Australia)

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Loads and loads of sherry, all derived from the PX cask in which this whisky was gracefully aged.

Colour: Amber, almost with a red hue.

Nose: The nose is filled with honey notes that develop into Christmas cake, icing sugar and sweet caramel.
Palate: Loads of sherry on the palate, then there's that hint of tobacco, black peppercorn and some sweet cocoa.
Finish: The finish is dry and long leaving a nice malt on the palate and some peanut butter?!

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100

GlenDronach 'Grandeur' 24 Year Old - Batch 5 (48.9% ABV, 24yo, Highland, Scotland, no longer available in Australia)

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An old and wise GlenDronach, one of 600 bottles of this supple, soft-sherry laden expression.

Colour: Amber hue

Nose: The noes smells of cocoa, dried fruits and some tobacco.
Palate: Soft and complex that starts with dark orange chocolate, then the honey notes begin to reveal itself before leaving sweet hazelnut chocolate notes on the finish.
Finish: The finish is long and sweet, nutty with an overlay of dried spices.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100.

- Hendy.