Showing posts with label 90. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 90. Show all posts

Tuesday, 3 February 2026

Tasted #705: Indri Agneya Single Malt Indian Whisky

It's hard to believe it's been 11 years this year, but in 2015 I visited Amrut Distillery for what was (still, to this day) the most in-depth distillery tour I've ever taken. Over many hours I got an incredibly in-depth look into every facet of Amrut's production, directly from the man responsible for making "Indian Single Malt" a thing, Surrinder Kumar.

In 2019 Surrinder however moved to Piccadily Agro Industries Limited, and subsequently launched what is now India's #1 selling single malt, Indri. We've featured Indri a few times on the blog, praising both their "Trini" in 2022 and Diwali Collector's Edition & Founder's Reserve last year. When Piccadily reached out offering a bottle of their latest "Agneya", matured in a mix of ex-Sherry and ex-Bourbon casks, I wasn't about to say no!

  

Derived from the Sanskrit word meaning “belonging to fire", Agneya is said to be a lightly-peated dram, non-chill filtered and with no added colour.

So without further ado...


Indria "Agneya" (46% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, Haryana, India, $104.99AUD, £46.25)

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Colour: Golden copper

Nose: Dried fig, raisins and a big hit of ginger. There are subtle hints of smoke (woodfired / BBQ smoke), along with some oak, spice and a little varnish. Quite a bit going on!

Palate: Stays true to the nose, with more chocolate, a little floral hint, some banana, woodsmoke & burnt orange peel

Finish: Long, with residual subtle woodfire smoke, salted chocolate and soft warming spices.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). Another great dram from Indri.




Cheers,
Martin.

Sunday, 24 August 2025

Ardbeg Anthology 15 Year Old “The Beithir’s Tale” and the Anthology Series (Tasted #697 - #699)

There’s something about Ardbeg that always manages to capture the imagination. For a distillery that spent much of the 1980s and ’90s mothballed or only partly operational, it’s remarkable how firmly it has established itself as a cult Islay favourite since its revival in 1997. From the release of the mighty Uigeadail in 2003, to annual Ardbeg Day bottlings like Grooves and Drum, to more recent crowd-pleasers like An Oa, there’s always been an energy and playfulness around Ardbeg that matches its whisky’s intensity.

It’s also a distillery with a knack for experimentation. From its iconic pagoda-roofed kiln of a bygone era, to unusual cask finishes, and quirky Committee releases like Alligator and Supernova, Ardbeg have always kept Ardbeggians and fans alike guessing. But behind all the different Ardbeg releases, lies one of the most distinctive spirit characters, medicinal, maritime, oily, and unapologetically peaty. Which is why whenever Ardbeg steps into new cask territory, it’s always fascinating to see how that core DNA holds up — and what new dimensions emerge.

The Anthology Collection, introduced in 2023, set out to explore a “sweeter” side of Ardbeg through three different cask experiments, each inspired by a mythical beast. Having now tasted the full trilogy, it’s clear that each release plays with the smoke-sweetness balance in very different ways. The Harpy’s Tale (13yo, ex-Bourbon and Sauternes) turned out to be the brightest and most elegant, with honeyed apricot sweetness tussling against oily smoke — my pick of the series. The Unicorn’s Tale (14yo, ex-Bourbon and Madeira) veered into sharper, baked-fruit territory, with lime and peach syrup layered over smoke and spice. And finally, the Beithir’s Tale (15yo, bespoke “designer” bourbon casks) felt like the most experimental of the three — vanilla, caramel, and toasted oak richness dialled up over earthy peat.

All bottled at 46% ABV, non-chill filtered, and adorned with mythical artwork, the Anthology Collection offers three distinct answers to the question: what happens when you let Ardbeg dance with sweetness?

Ardbeg 13 Year Old “The Harpy's Tale” (46% ABV, 13 Years Old, Islay, Scotland, A$240)

The first in the Anthology Collection, The Harpy’s Tale takes classic Ardbeg smoke and weaves it through the lush sweetness of Sauternes wine casks. On paper, the combination feels almost mythical — and in the glass, it doesn’t disappoint. This is a dram that flits between light and dark, sweet and savoury, all while staying unmistakably Ardbeg.

Nose: Immediately oily and herbaceous, with a salty coastal edge — brine and seaweed against the glass. Then comes a fragrant sweetness: lemon peel, honey lozenges, apricots, even a perfumed lift like dried sage leaves on a bonfire. There’s smoke here, but it’s more wispy and perfumed than the full blast you’d expect from Ten or Uigeadail.

Palate: The first sip is a little surprising — grilled capsicum and wood ash lead the charge, before that honey-lemon lozenge sweetness comes surging back through. Layers of treacle and balsamic richness develop (without the sharp acidity), interplaying with drifting bonfire smoke. It’s savoury and sweet in equal measure, with eucalyptus and charred oak lingering towards the back, dusted with peppery spice.

Finish: Long and lingering, with the embers of a fading bonfire and a persistent spiced warmth that keeps drawing you back for another sip. This is my favourite of the collection.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

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Ardbeg 14 Year Old “The Unicorn's Tale” (46% ABV, 14 Years Old, Islay, Scotland, A$250)

The second chapter in the Anthology Collection, The Unicorn’s Tale, takes Ardbeg’s smoky DNA and pairs it with Madeira wine casks. Where the Harpy’s Tale offered a honeyed brightness from Sauternes, the Unicorn leans into a baked-fruit richness — sharper, nuttier, and just that little bit wilder. It feels like Ardbeg experimenting with sweetness once again, but from a very different angle.

Nose: Immediately rich and fruity — ripe bananas, even those nostalgic banana lollies, mixed with cinnamon scrolls and sweet wooden smoke. There’s depth too, with treacle and peanut brittle sweetness, underpinned by citrus zest and flashes of tropical guava. The peat is there, but it sits like smoke drifting through a sweet bakery window.

Palate: A surprisingly sweet and zesty arrival. Lime cordial and peach syrup coat the tongue, before warming spices of nutmeg roll in alongside vanilla slice and caramel squares. A sweet, woody undertone keeps the balance, while the spirit feels mouth-coating and almost oily. The smoke builds as it develops, wrapping the sweetness in a gentle haze of bonfire.

Finish: Long and lingering, with smoky citrus peel, plenty of ash, and a cool wave of menthol running through the aftertaste.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Hendy)

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Ardbeg 15 Year Old “The Beithir’s Tale” (46% ABV, 15 Years Old, Islay, Scotland, A$255)

Arguably, the most experimental of the three. The final chapter in the Anthology Collection, The Beithir’s Tale, may just be the boldest of the three. Instead of wine finishes, Ardbeg chose to explore the limits of oak itself, working with bespoke “designer” bourbon casks — air-seasoned, heavily toasted, and lightly charred to specification. Where the Ten shows what classic bourbon casks usually bring to Ardbeg, the Beithir dials it all up a notch: richer vanilla, deeper spice, and toasted sweetness, all mixed with that unmistakable peaty backbone.

Nose: Rich and complex, opening with creme brulee and burnt sugar before a rush of menthol and eucalyptus. Pine needles and fennel add a fresh, herbal edge, while the peat smoke lurks quietly underneath. With time, baked apple pie and sultanas emerge, lending a sweet-fruited counterpoint.

Palate: Zesty and earthy on the palate, quickly becoming richer as blackcurrants, vanilla, and caramel slices coat the palate. The peat smoke undercurrent keeps everything anchored, while layers of citrus (mandarins in particular), black pepper, and a touch of liquorice add depth. It’s mouth-coating and satisfying, striking a balance between sweet oak influence and smoky savouriness.

Finish: Long and defined, leaving smoky embers, liquorice, and lingering spice. A dram that slowly fades.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Hendy)

The Beithir’s Tale feels like the boldest of the three Anthology releases — less about wine finishes, more about cask innovation and the pure interplay between Ardbeg’s spirit and oak. If the Ten is the soul of Ardbeg and Uigeadail its sherried alter-ego, the Anthology series are experimental short stories — each exploring “what if?” scenarios with wood.

The Ardbeg 15 Year Old “The Beithir’s Tale” will be available in Australia from August 26th through the Ardbeg Committee.

Many thanks to the Ardbeg Australia Team for gifting us the new Ardbeg Anthology limited releases.

Cheers,

Hendy

Saturday, 15 February 2025

Benromach Contrasts range - Unpeated and Virgin Oak [Tasted #693 - 694]

We've been pretty fortunate here at TimeforWhisky to try some old and incredibly rare Benromach releases over the years. The last we tried was a 46yo single cask from 1972 (one of only 75 bottles) and the one before that a 41yo single cask from 1974. One thing we found with each of these was that they were incredibly delicious, well-made whisky, bottled at just the right time.

The thing is, "delicious" and "well-made" seems to be something that applies across the Benromach range, right down to the entry level 10 Year Old. I've referred to Benromach as a distillery who just make incredibly good, honest whisky, and I still stand by that today.

...which brings us to the "Contrasts" range, aiming to present a different (or Contrasting) view of Benromach, via a core range consisting of "Peat Smoke" and "Organic" , and a number of "Guest Contrasts" including the two we're tasting today - "Virgin Oak" (10yo and fully-matured in Virgin American Oak casks) and "Unpeated" (9yo and matured in a mix of ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry casks).



Benromach Contrasts Unpeated (46% ABV, Single Malt, 9yo, Speyside, Scotland)

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Colour: Light gold

Nose: Light, with hints of heather, oatcakes, pear, stewed fruits and just a lovely classic fruity Speyside nose.

Palate: Consistent with the nose, with a touch of herbaceousness, dried apricot, red apple and some salted caramel.

Finish: Floral and lifted, with some ginger notes through to the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 88/100 (Martin)



Benromach Contrasts Virgin Oak (46% ABV, Single Malt, 10yo, Speyside, Scotland)

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Colour: Orange gold.

Nose: Oak and citrus spice, with some banana chips and bacon.

Palate: Sweet, less spiced than the nose suggests, more herbal and savoury, with some hints of smoked oranges.

Finish: Butter Menthol lozenges and mature oak.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin)


Cheers,
Martin.

Tuesday, 28 January 2025

Diageo Special Releases 2024 [Tasted #685 - 692]

A belated Happy New Year! What better way to get into the 2025 swing of things than with Diageo's "Special Releases" set (from uh, 2024, LOL). This year I'm trying something new with some quick-fire IG reel video reviews (the first here) which may well continue throughout 2025, but for those who like our lengthier written reviews, they'll continue too. Read on...

For those unfamiliar with Diageo’s Special Releases, they've been around since 2001, but have become somewhat different in recent years. Longer term whisky fans will recall the series being focused on well-aged examples of popular Diageo malts and grains, some from closed distilleries. However as the demand, scarcity (and of course price) for those rose - especially Brora and Port Ellen - Diageo took them out of the Special Releases in 2018 and put them into other series (like Prima & Ultima) and some one-off releases (like Port Ellen Gemini & Brora Triptych).


Hendy and I have covered Special Releases for a while now, having seen this evolution first hand (see our 20162018/201920202021 & 2022 articles), and at times we've even been lucky enough to try the rarer malts that are no longer in Special Releases, like this 41yo Port Ellen and this 40yo Brora. Despite the changes, we always get a thrill from new Special Releases, and it's always fun to see well-known (and not so well-known) whiskies in a new light.

So, what do we have in the 2024 lineup? 

8 whiskies, all from operational distilleries, spanning 8-21yo (and one NAS). We have mainstays of the collection (like Lagavulin 12 Cask Strength and more recently, Talisker 8yo) but some more unusual releases too, like a 21yo Benrinnes, the second ever release of Roseisle, and an unpeated Caol Ila!

(We even have a dram finished in "stone spun" casks, and no I had no idea what they were either...)



Let’s get into them…


Roseisle 12yo "Origami Kite II" (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (55.6% ABV, Single Malt, 12yo, Speyside, Scotland, $1,080HKD£112.50)
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To be honest this was probably the one that interested me the most last year, as the inaugural release from this Speyside distillery that only opened in 2010. It didn’t disappoint (quality-wise) so I’m eager to see how this second release fares, especially as it shares age and cask types in common with 2023’s. I really appreciate that despite the focus of the range, Diageo have kept this one simple without fancy cask finishes.

Colour: Light honey.

Nose: Honied spice, slight hints of white pepper with a vanilla creaminess.

Palate: Consistent with the nose, with spice at the front of the palate, followed by a creamy sweet vanilla noteat the back. Very subtle tropical hints - mango mostly.

Finish: Med to long finish with notes of vanilla cream.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 89/100 (Martin). Strong showing, like last year.




The Singleton of Glen Ord 14yo "Autumnal Walk" (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (54.7% ABV, Single Malt, 14yo, Highlands, Scotland, $1,215HKD / £110)
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Not everyone knows this, but Singleton is actually a brand rather than a distillery, and there are a few distilleries (Dufftown, Ord, Glendullan) sold under the label. Of the 3 Ord (which this is) is my favourite, with some amazing releases in the past (especially the 16yo Manager’s Dram). This one saw maturation in ex-Bourbon, ex-wine and refill casks with Pyrenean and Spanish Oak cask ends.

Colour: Orange marmalade.

Nose: Candied orange peel, stone fruits (pear mostly) and some hints of strawberry.

Palate: Retains the fruity confectionary notes of the palate, alongside some woodspice and sweet ginger.

Finish: Long, with subtle oak tannins and citrus.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 87/100 (Martin). 





Oban 10yo "Coastal Orchard" (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (58% ABV, Single Malt, 10yo, Highlands, Scotland, $890HKD / £108.33)
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From the first whisky distillery I ever visited! Part finished in new, freshly-charred Oloroso-seasoned American oak barrels and bottled at 58%.

Colour: Amber gold.

Nose: Slight cereal spice, with apricot hints. Breakfast in a glass!

Palate: The spice and apricot from the nose follows, with a more rounded, creamy mouthfeel with hints of custard, slight oak, and berry spice. I didn't find much sherry influence, despite the use of Oloroso-seasoned casks.

Finish: Oak spice.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 86/100 (Martin). Breakfast dram.



Mortlach “Midnight Dusk” (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (57.5% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, Speyside, Scotland, $1,980HKD / £208.33)
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The only NAS in the lineup, this Mortlach deviates from the usual heavy, meatier, darker nature with a lighter, more youthful spirit, thanks to finishing in both red and white Italian wine casks. 

Colour: Yellow gold.

Nose: Youthful and grassy, with noticeable new oak.

Palate: Simple and straightforward, with stone fruits and subtle salty smoke, followed by apple, pineapple and salted caramel

Finish: Long with a slight oak astringency.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 86/100 (Martin). I always enjoy seeing whiskies presented in a different light, but if I’m honest I don’t see nearly $2,00HKD worth of value in this one...



Benrinnes 21yo “Grand Crescendo” (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (55.4% ABV, Single Malt, 21yo, Speyside, Scotland, $3,625HKD / £283.33)
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The oldest and most expensive in the line up, Speyside’s Benrinnes has (as far as I’m aware) only featured in Special Releases twice since the start, also last time in a 21yo in 2014 with a heavy sherry influence. This time around it’s been matured in a mix of American and European Oak wine casks, interestingly with a finish that’s longer than the original maturation (13yrs vs 8yrs).

Colour: Dark orange gold.

Nose: Subtle, understated and elegant. Nutty hints, berry hints and some toffee.

Palate: Soft, elegant but still powerful. Sherry notes are there, but they're subtle, slowly growing. Cherries, baked pie crust, hints of strawberry.

Finish: Long, baked cherry pie.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). Probably my top pick of the lineup this year (just edging out the Roseisle).



Caol Ila 11yo “Ambrosial Feast” (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (% ABV, Single Malt, 11yo, Islay, Scotland, $820HKD)
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As many of my whisky mates have heard me say, I reckon Caol Ila is one of the most versatile spirits out there. It can be delicious under 10yo, fantastic in its mid to late teens, beautiful in its 20s, and so on (and don’t get me started on early 1980s…beautiful spirit). What’s most interesting about this 11yo release however is it’s a rarely-seen unpeated Caol Ila! It’s not the first time we’ve seen one (there was one in 2015 and if I’m not mistaken, 2018 too) but it’s certainly not common, and for me is probably the most interesting “twist” we see in the lineup this year.

Colour: Yellow gold.

Nose: Oranges, pear, mango with an underlying nuttiness.

Palate: Less fruity than the nose, more hazelnut icecream, honey and oak (but with subtle hints of mango from the nose)

Finish: Long, with slight oak tannins

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 87/100 (Martin).



Talisker 8yo “Tidal Churn” (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (58.7% ABV, Single Malt, 8yo, Islands, Scotland, $780HKD£75)
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I’m always excited to try a new young Talker, mostly because the 8yo from 2018’s Special Releases still holds the title of best young Talisker I’ve ever tried - and probably best 8yo whisky I’ve ever tried! If you ever come across a bottle, do yourself a favour and try it - you won’t be disappointed. With that lofty benchmark set, we have this year’s 8yo which is said to be finished in “stone-spun” casks. Yep...."stone-spun". I like to think I’m pretty au fait with whisky terminology, but that was a new one for me. As best I can tell, it’s a method of decharring a cask using stones and water. Ok...

Colour: Straw

Nose: Saline, coastal, very slight peat but of a coastal/maritime nature, not iodine or BBQ-esque.

Palate: More peat than the nose suggests, with brine, nutty salted fish, and some noticeable camfourwood.

Finish: Medium in length, with strong salinity.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 86/100 (Martin). 




Lagavulin 12yo “Fireside Tails”(Diageo Special Releases 2024) (57.4% ABV, Single Malt, 12yo, Islay, Scotland, $1,250HKD£129.17)
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The mainstay of the special releases - Lagavulin’s famed 12yo Cask Strength. One of the most consistent and enjoyable releases of the lineup in my opinion, this year’s release is back to more traditional cask types (1st fill ex-Bourbon, refill hoggies and refill European Oak butts) rather than the past two years which saw Virgin Oak and even ex-Añejo tequila casks.

Colour: Light yellow gold.

Nose: Fruity campfire smoke - apples, pears (toasted), bonfire smoke.

Palate: Creamy, salted BBQ notes - think a salted caramel or vanilla tart with a campfire-toasted crust.

Finish: Long, fruit smoke with a drying spice.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). The classic Laga 12 CS rarely disappoints, and this one continues that trend.



So there you have it, 8 drams from 8 different distilleries. A big thanks to MHDHK for setting aside a tasting kit for us.

Cheers,
Martin.

Saturday, 17 August 2024

Halcyon Spirits 27yo Single Cask 1996 Burnside [Tasted #677]

I wrote last year about new Scottish-based Independent Bottler Halcyon Spirits, and how their 2000-strong cask inventory probably meant we'd probably see many bottles to come. It wasn't long after their inaugural release (a 30yo Macallan) that I tasted their second release (a 32yo Auchentoshan) and whilst I didn't manage to try their third (a 30yo Clynelish), the team have now released (and kindly sent me a sample of) their fourth - a 27yo Burnside from 1996 (finished in an ex-sherry cask and bottled in 2024).

"Burnside", some of you may ask? Basically, a teaspooned whisky, or a blended malt which is predominantly one malt, with only a small amount of another. There's a whole discussion to be had about if all "teaspooned" whisky is really teaspooned, or if some of it is single malt simply labelled/sold as a blended malt, but that's for another post. 

In this case, Burnside is the name given to a whisky predominantly made up of Balvenie, with only a small amount of Glenfiddich


Halcyon Spirits "Halcyon Release #4" Burnside Aged 27 Years (52.9% ABV, Blended Malt, 27yo, 1 of 292 bottles, Scotland, £195)
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Colour: Burnished copper-gold

Nose: Fruit & nuts, pear, honey and some molasses. There are sultana notes, and after some air & time to open up, subtle ginger hints.

Palate: Initial citrus zest, giving way to more honey and molasses, some oak spice, walnuts, dried oranges, vanilla custard, some green frog jelly lollies, and finally some cinnamon. The sherry influence is there, without doubt, but it doesn't overpower the whisky, allowing other notes to show.

Finish: Medium to long, with dried orange most predominant, and subtle ginger spice in the background.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). I enjoy Balvenie, and have always enjoyed the Burnsides I've tried - a lot. This one is no different - a great dram, and a very reasonable price for a 27yo (more or less) Balvenie!


Cheers,
Martin.

Sunday, 26 May 2024

Glen Moray Masterclass with Iain Allan [Tasted #663 - #668]

To kick off Sydney’s Whisky Month, we joined Iain Allan, Global Ambassador for Glen Moray Distillery, and Judith Zhu, bartender at Door Knock, at Grain Bar for a Glen Moray masterclass. The session featured Glen Moray whiskies from their Cask Explorer range, including the delicious Glen Moray 10yo 'Elgin,' released as part of the Queen’s Jubilee celebration. Two limited-edition Glen Moray releases; Whisky List exclusive, a Glen Moray Rioja Cask Finish and a Peated Glen Moray Rioja Cask Finish, completed the tasting set.

It's been a while since we have had a full Glen Moray tasting. Back in 2013, Graham Coull, Glen Moray Distillery Manager led a Glen Moray whisky & cheese matching in Sydney as part of Whisky Live. Since then we have seen Glen Moray evolved, both as a distiller as well as with their flavour profile.

During the session, Iain explained that Glen Moray is situated in Elgin, midway between Aberdeen and Inverness in the Speyside region, known for producing lighter, sweeter whiskies with a bit of spice. Established in 1897, Glen Moray began as a brewery before converting into a distillery. With its long history, Glen Moray benefits from the resources around Elgin, including water from the River Lossie. Though unlike Sydney winter, Iain humorously addressed complaints about the cold weather in Sydney, comparing it to Scotland’s colder winter and noting that whisky is used to keep warm in Scotland.

Glen Moray is known for its traditional production methods, utilizing copper pot stills and oak casks for aging. They commonly use a mix of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks but also enjoy experimenting with non-conventional casks such as madeira, port, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, rum, and rioja. In fact, Iain noted that Glen Moray has recently rebranded its core range from the classic collection to the 'cask explorer' collection - the latter denoting Glen Moray's piqued interest in experimenting with different casks. 

Despite the use of different casks, Iain did note that Glen Moray’s history of cask exploration has remained since 1897, noting that while experimentation with various cask types constitutes about 20% of their production, the remaining 80% relies on the consistent quality of bourbon cask maturation. 

Glen Moray's ownership by La Martiniquaise-Bardinet, a French spirits company, has significantly expanded the distillery's global reach while maintaining its traditional roots. Under La Martiniquaise, Glen Moray has grown from a small export range to a more global presence, with expansions increasing production capacity to 8.5 million litres, positioning it as a medium-sized distillery.

Back to the masterclass, complementing the Glen Moray whiskies were three beautifully crafted cocktails that Judith invented, combining Glen Moray whiskies, including the two Rioja Cask releases, with Australian native ingredients. Along with the 10yo Elgin, I enjoyed the Peated Rioja Cask release, which had big aromas and flavours with sweet, savoury, and big smoked meat notes.


Glen Moray Shiraz Cask Finish (40% ABV, NAS, Speyside, Scotland, A$57.90)

An Australian market-exclusive whisky, part of the newly rebranded Explorer Range, previously known as the Classic Range. Initially aged for six years in bourbon casks and finished for two years in European Shiraz casks. Iain noted that this gives the benefit of the French oak's nutty, hazelnut character and the floral, fruity notes of Shiraz.

Nose: The aroma opens with the quintessential characteristics of Speysidy, featuring a rich combination of sweet vanilla and luscious honey. There's a subtle hint of meaty undertones, adding depth and complexity. Light notes of currants and raisins, accompanied tannins that lend a slight dryness, reminiscent of well-aged oak.

Palate: On the palate, there's a delicate and inviting profile. Initial flavours of creamy vanilla and golden honey take centre stage, creating a smooth and comforting sensation. A nutty character emerges, bringing to mind freshly roasted almonds and hazelnuts, complemented by the taste of buttery sweet bread, evoking the warmth of a bakery. The vanilla base provides a consistent thread of sweetness, while a touch of perfumed spices—perhaps cinnamon and nutmeg—adds an intriguing, aromatic layer.

Finish: The finish is long and indulgent, with the delightful taste of hazelnuts leaving a lasting impression. There's a decadent Nutella-like sweetness that lingers on the tongue, making for a satisfyingly rich and nutty conclusion to the tasting experience.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 89/100 (Hendy)


Glen Moray 12yo (40% ABV, 12yo, Speyside, Scotland, A$65.95)

Described by Iain as a quintessential expression of the distillery’s traditional style, matured in bourbon casks for a minimum of 12 years. This aging process strikes a balance between the spirit’s natural flavors and the influence of the oak, creating a sweet and slightly spicy profile typical of Speyside whiskies. The 12 Year Old is described by Iain as the distillery’s flagship whisky, offering an approachable yet complex taste that appeals to both new and seasoned whisky drinkers. Despite production challenges, such as having to allocate the 12 Year Old due to high demand, the whisky remains a cornerstone of Glen Moray’s heritage and identity.

NoseThe aroma greets you with a delightful combination of honey and a rich nuttiness. The honey provides a sweet, floral fragrance. A warm, nutty scent follows, reminiscent of toasted almonds and hazelnuts. The presence of vanilla adds a creamy, comforting layer. Delicate notes of fresh berries, such as raspberries and blackberries, introduce a subtle fruity complexity.

Palate: On the palate, there's a light and well-balanced profile. The initial taste is smooth and nutty, bringing forward the rich flavour of hazelnuts that's mixed with the sweetness of vanilla. The vanilla is creamy and indulgent, providing a lush base that ties the flavours together. The mouthfeel is light yet satisfying, with the nutty elements creating a comforting, familiar sensation, akin to a warm, nutty pastry.

Finish: The finish is dry, leaving a lingering impression of creamy vanilla and nutty flavours. The dryness adds a refined touch. The nutty finish, with its hints of toasted almonds and hazelnuts.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Hendy)


Glen Moray 10yo 'Elgin' (46% ABV, 10yo, Speyside, Scotland, no longer available)

Glen Moray's limited edition Shiraz Cask Finish Launched last year in Australia and now no longer available, it was intended to celebrate Elgin potentially becoming a city and later commemorated Glen Moray's 125th anniversary. This unique whisky, aged six years in bourbon casks and two years in European Shiraz casks, showcases the distillery's hallmark toffee apple sweetness and a nutty, fruity profile. Despite its popularity, the whisky is nearly sold out, with only a few bottles left (none in Australia). Iain  fondly recalls the unexpected discovery of Chardonnay casks in 2008 which we actually tasted in 2013 as they were bottled as the Glen Moray 10yo Chardonnay casks.

Nose: The nose opens with a rich, inviting scent of creamy vanilla, immediately evoking the warmth of freshly baked pastries. This is complemented by buttery undertones. Sweet notes of golden honey blend seamlessly with a subtle freshness from peppermint. The minty elements provide a refreshing contrast.

Palate: On the palate, this whisky is luscious, with a rich buttery texture and sweet flavours of caramelised sugar, reminiscent of the crisp topping on a crème brûlée. The creamy vanilla persists, adding depth. Flavours of fluffy marshmallows and freshly baked loaf bread evoke a sense of home comfort. The taste of toffee apples introduces a fruity sweetness, complemented by a drizzle of thick syrup. A surprising hint of peppery rocket adds a subtle spiciness, balancing the sweetness and adding complexity.

Finish: The finish is long, leaving a lasting impression of dry, creamy vanilla and the sweetness of marshmallows. The marshmallow note lingers pleasantly, providing a light, airy conclusion to the tasting experience. This extended finish allows the rich flavours to gradually fade.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Hendy)


Glen Moray 18yo (47.2% ABV, 18yo, Speyside, Scotland, A$148.99)

Nose: The nose of this whisky is rich and inviting, opening with the sweet, golden scent of honey that immediately draws you in. This is followed by a deep maltiness, reminiscent of freshly milled grains, adding a wholesome, earthy quality. A delightful aroma of toffee and sticky caramel pudding brings a decadent sweetness, evoking the comforting scents of a dessert kitchen. The presence of vanilla essence adds a creamy, aromatic layer, rounding out the nose.

Palate: On the palate, the whisky presents a complex profile. The taste of nougat emerges first, offering a chewy, nutty sweetness that is both rich and textured. This is complemented by creamy vanilla, which provides a smooth and luscious base. Herbaceous notes add an intriguing layer of depth, with hints of fresh, green herbs that balance the sweetness. A touch of mint introduces a cool, refreshing element, while the subtle spice of ginger lollies adds a warm, invigorating kick.

Finish: The finish is medium to long. It begins with a drying sensation, which provides a refined, clean finish. The creamy vanilla lingers on the palate, maintaining a sweet, comforting presence. This extended finish allows the rich flavours to gradually dissipate.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Hendy)


Glen Moray Rioja Cask Matured (59.8% ABV, NAS, Speyside, Scotland, A$199)

Part of the Glen Moray Warehouse 1 series, this Rioja cask matured Glen Moray showcases the Glen Moray's commitment to cask exploration. Warehouse 1, a dedicated space for experimental casks, houses a diverse range of barrels including sherry butts, port pipes, and wine casks. Unlike other more regimented warehouses, it reflects Glen Moray's innovative spirit. The Warehouse 1 series, is now available globally after being a UK exclusive, features unfiltered, natural colour whiskies. Each release is unique, with current offerings including two distinct Rioja cask maturations.

Nose: The nose is a captivating blend of aromas, starting with a distinctly herbaceous quality that brings to mind freshly crushed herbs. This is complemented by a peppery spiciness that adds an invigorating kick. Creamy vanilla weaves through the scent, providing a smooth, sweet balance. Intriguingly, there is a unique hint of black Kalamata olives, adding a savoury, briny depth. Fruity notes of ripe peach and juicy plums round out the nose.

Palate: On the palate, the whisky delivers a robust and complex flavour profile. The initial taste is spiced, with a bold intensity that awakens the senses. This is followed by the savoury richness of salted rubbed meat, evoking the flavours of well-seasoned charcuterie. The sweet, juicy taste of plums emerges next, harmonizing with subtle hints of peaches, which add a delicate, fruity sweetness. Caramelised sugar imparts a rich, burnt sweetness that enhances the overall depth. A touch of nutmeg introduces a warm, aromatic spice, while a hint of peppermint provides a refreshing, cool finish.

Finish: The finish is dry and lingering, leaving a lasting impression of smoked ham that evokes the savoury, smoky flavours of cured meat. This creates a complex and satisfying conclusion, with the smoky, savoury notes gradually fading, leaving a warm, subtly spiced aftertaste.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Hendy)


Glen Moray Peated Rioja Cask Matured (59.8% ABV, NAS, Speyside, Scotland, A$209)

In November 2024, Glen Moray released a new peated whisky from their Warehouse 1 series, marking a significant departure from their traditional Speyside style. Initially skeptical about peated whisky, the distillery began experimenting with it in 2010, using local peat to create a unique smoky profile distinct from Islay whiskies. This particular release, an 11-year-old whisky aged nine years in bourbon casks and finished for two years in Rioja casks, offers a complex flavour with notes of smoky bacon, Umami, sweet smoke, red fruits, and subtle hints of citrus, toffee, and vanilla. Iain noted despite being Glen Moray's first internationally released heavily peated whisky, there are only small batches annually due to the labor-intensive cleaning process required to switch between peated and non-peated production.

Nose: The nose opens with an enticing aroma of smoked bacon, evoking memories of a hearty breakfast on the coast. This is swiftly followed by the briny scent of seaweed and a touch of sea salt, conjuring the freshness of a coastal breeze. The marine notes are beautifully balanced by the sweetness of caramel, adding a rich, buttery layer. A hint of BBQed tomato emerges, offering a smoky, umami twist.

Palate: On the palate, the whisky delivers a robust and savoury experience. The initial taste is reminiscent of salted cold meat, bringing a rich umami flavor that mingles with a pronounced sea saltiness. This is followed by the deep, smoky flavour of charred steak, enhanced by a drizzle of sweet maple syrup that adds a caramelized richness. A hint of chili introduces a spicy warmth, while honey adds a smooth, sweet counterbalance. The nuttiness, akin to roasted almonds, provides an earthy depth that enriches the overall palate experience.

Finish: The finish is long and satisfying, characterised by a dry, lingering spiciness from the chili. Vanilla adds a creamy sweetness that softens the finish. The final notes of lingering nuts, reminiscent of toasted hazelnuts and walnuts, leave a warm, nutty aftertaste that invites you to savour each moment.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Hendy)


Overall, the Glen Moray masterclass was a delightful journey through their innovative whisky range. The blend of tradition and experimentation in their whiskies, complemented by Judith's creative cocktails, made for an unforgettable tasting experience.

To follow on the tasting yesterday, Glen Moray will be available exclusively at Grain Bar from 24th May to 16th June as part of their ‘Fireplace Seduction’ experience which will also run alongside Vivid Sydney in June. Grain Bar will feature an exclusive flight of Glen Moray whiskies. The Whisky List will also have Glen Moray present at the Melbourne Whisky Show on the 6th July as well as the Brisbane Whisky Show on 14th of September.





Tuesday, 20 June 2023

House of Hazelwood - Whisky from the Gordon Family private collection [Tasted #639 - 642]

As I think I've mentioned a few times on this blog, Glenfiddich is the whisky that got me into whisky (an abnormally large percentage of my posts from 2012 were about the distillery), and a whisky for which I've always had a soft spot. Over time that extended to sister distilleries Balvenie & Kininvie, so it's fair to say I'm a fan of what parent (and still family-owned) company William Grant & Sons produce. 

It shouldn't be a surprise then that when I was asked if I wanted to try some well-aged releases from House of Hazelwood, the latest venture from the Gordon Family (owners of WG&S), a very emphatic yes quickly followed.

Depending on when you began your whisky journey, "Hazelwood" could mean a few different things - a limited series of releases dating back to 2001 (with the first released only to WG&S employees, and the second being the first official bottling of Kininvie single malt), or a 2016 series of blended releases found largely in duty free, bottled in 500mL format as an 18, 21 and 25 year old.

It's the Hazelwood brand's most recent incarnation we're here to discuss though, and arguably its most exciting. To learn more, I sat down with Director Jonathan Gibson for a virtual tasting recently.



Jonathan explained that Charles Gordon (great-grandson of William Grant, father of the current WG&S Chairman & influential character in the company's history) began collecting casks not for commercial release, but for the family's personal stocks decades ago, and built the collection to the point that it simply became "too large". No doubt buoyed by whisky's immense rising popularity, the family decided it was time to bottle and sell these, and hence the House of Hazelwood collection was born, with a plan to release 8 new whiskies every 6-9 months.
 
(A point I found interesting is that the casks that go into the House of Hazelwood collection don't contain old Glenfiddich, Balvenie or Kininvie. The distilleries are diverse and varied, and the majority of the whiskies are blended, blended malt or blended grain whiskies.)
 

I asked Jonathan (who himself came from Compass Box) about the cask management - he explained some are actively managed, and others are left alone. Some are blended at birth (like the aptly titled "Blended at Birth"!) and others blended later in life.

The company (under the WG&S umbrella, but run as a separate company to the distilleries) launched in June 2022, and has recently officially launched in Australia, largely following a model of selling direct to consumers. With some luck Hong Kong distribution won't be too far behind.

Having covered the background, it was time to dive into a tasting of the 4 releases House of Hazelwood had kindly sent me:



House of Hazelwood 1965 "Blended at Birth" Blended Scotch Whisky (47% ABV, Blended Scotch, 56yo, 1 of 192 bottles, Scotland, £4,500)
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A blend containing Girvan grain whisky, blended into the cask at birth and bottled a whopping 56 years later.

Colour: Deep amber

Nose: Dunnage warehouse, menthol, orange and almond.

Palate: Quite nutty initially - almonds, almondmeal and almond cake. Orange and grapefruit notes show up soon after, followed by herbal jelly. With some time in the glass, a brandy fruitiness emerges.

Finish: Long and lingering, with a slight fruit spice towards teh end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). A very solid start, and a whisky that evokes those "old whisky" notes (as opposed to "old bottle") the way very few can.




House of Hazelwood "The Tops" Blended Malt Whisky (51.6% ABV, 33yo, 1 of 523 bottles, Blended Malt, Scotland, £1,450)
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Containing a blend of Speyside malts, matured in ex-Sherry casks.

Colour: Dark copper-brown.

Nose: Cherry, berry fruits at first. Rich, but beautifully clean sherry notes follow with juicy oak and some coffee grounds.

Palate: Spiced oak, caramel, hunidor, followed by more cherry, some sherry-soaked raisins, and rum & raisin ice cream.

Finish: Lasts incredibly long, with a fruity, rum & raisin finish with a hint of residual oak.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). Exactly what you want in a sherried Speyside - clean but noticeable sherry, with the oak in-check.




House of Hazelwood "The Unknown" Blended Scotch Whisky (43.3% ABV, 44yo, 1 of 143 bottles, Blended Scotch, Scotland, £3,000)
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Distilled in 1978 and blended in 1989, "The Unknown" underwent an extensive secondary maturation for a further 33 years in a single refill butt

Colour: Bright yellow-gold.

Nose: Fresh vanilla pods in a fruit salad - pear, peach, apple predominantly.

Palate: More vanilla - creamy, with the same fruit salad notes from the nose, adding in nectarine and some citrus. There's a light, delicate mouthfeel and an underlying sweetness you find with some old grain whiskies.

Finish: Medium to long in length, with vanilla-laced smooth oak notes.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Martin).




House of Hazelwood "A Breath of Fresh Air" Blended Grain Whisky (46.4% ABV, 37yo, 1 of 417 bottles, Blended Grain, Scotland, £3,000)
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Colour: Morning sunrise golden

Nose: Strawberries, Butter Menthol lollies, creamed honey and an underlying butteriness.

Palate: Light, with the buttery notes continuing alongside some rum-like esthers, heather & honey.

Finish: Medium in length, with a sweet buttery shortbread note that gains some dryness towards the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). A delightful example of the unique characteristics old Grain whisky can produce.



House of Hazelwood whiskies are available now in UK and Australia, purchased directly from the official website, with further distribution to follow. The collection is expected to grow every 6-9 months (with another 8 bottles added), and we can't wait to see how the future releases shape up.

Cheers,
Martin.

Thanks to House of Hazelwood for the samples, and to Jonathan for his time.