Showing posts with label Australia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Australia. Show all posts

Friday, 23 January 2026

Hellyers Road Aged 22 Years, 21 Years & 12 Years (Tasted #702 - 704)

Happy New Year! Hope you all managed to get some downtime over the holiday period (hopefully with a dram or two in hand).

We're back into it for 2026, kicking off where we left off, with a few more Australian whiskies...

My two trips to Tassie last year (after a 17 year absence) gave me a great opportunity to get back into the Aussie whisky scene I’d been away from for so long - to try a bunch of new distilleries, rediscover old ones, and to connect and re-connect with some great whisky folk in Tassie.

One of those people was Mark from Whisky is my Jam - arguably one of the most knowledgable, passionate and connected people in all of Tasmanian whisky, and also a genuinely great bloke.

On a few occasions Mark took me through a range of Tassie whiskies - some I was experiencing for the first time, and some I hadn't tried in over a decade. In the latter camp was Hellyers Road, which in a "full circle" kind of moment was actually the very first two whiskies I ever wrote about on this blog (over 13 years ago)!

Mark put me in touch with David from Sales & Promotions at the distillery (someone I'd been following on IG for years), who was kind enough to send me a few well-aged samples to re-acquaint myself further. Included were:
Let's dig in...

 


Hellyers Road American Oak Aged 22 Years (Cask #2325.03) (56.5% ABV, Single Malt, 22yo, 1 of 80 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $1,450AUD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Amber sunset.

Nose: Big and complex - orange / citrus notes and perfume, with some slight hints of peach, treacle and oak.

Palate: Immediate zesty orange peel, followed up by whole orange slices. Some oak spice & marmalade, ginger, and a slight grassy herbaceousness. It's complex, and it all works well. 

Finish: Long, marmalade, stone fruits.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). 




Hellyers Road Peated Cask Finish Aged 21 Years (Cask #20F05C01) (52.5% ABV, Single Malt, 21yo, 1 of 301 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $1,350AUD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Golden sunset

Nose: Keeps the citrus oil and perfume of the 22yo, but with a subtle underlying campfire note, and more tropical notes (passionfruit mostly).

Palate: The peat smoke is more pronounced on the palate, but the passionfruit and oranges (whole) are there too, in perfect harmony.

Finish: Residual BBQ smoky meatiness, with some final orange zest. Long and lingering.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). Peated cask finishes sometimes don't work too well, but I'm glad to say in this case it works very nicely.
 


Hellyers Road American Oak Aged 12 Years (46.2% ABV, Single Malt, 12yo, Tasmania, Australia, $260AUD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colour: Light golden sunset.

Nose: Bubblegum and Juicyfruit, orange oil, oaked passionfruit

Palate: Follows the nose, with big citrus oil notes, passionfruit, chocolate orange, hints of cinnamon, strawberries and a slight savoury note.

Finish: Long, with a lovely citrus zest that lingers.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 89/100 (Martin). Complex and tasting - wonderful to see how far the spirit has come over the years.



It was great to revisit the distillery that I kicked off this blog with all those years ago, and even better to see the spirit come so far in that time. Thanks Mark for the intro and David for the generous samples.

Cheers,
Martin.

Thursday, 6 November 2025

An unforgettable Tassie trip to taste the oldest ever Australian Whiskies [Tasted #700 - 701]

Recently I was one of a fortunate few invited by Sullivans Cove to visit the distillery for the launch of the oldest ever Australian whiskies - the new 25 Year Old single cask Sullivans Coves we announced recently

This not really being the sort of thing you say "no" to, I found myself on a Wednesday night heading down to Hobart (staying at the incredibly unique "story-telling" Macq01 hotel, appropriately situated next to Sullivans Cove - the Cove, not the distillery) ahead of the main event on Thursday evening - having just visited 2 weeks earlier on a personal trip, my first time in Tasmania since 2008!

Held at the stunningly renovated distillery in Cambridge, the event brought together makers, writers, whisky lovers and fans of craft and quality for an in-depth discussion into Australian whisky, Sullivans Cove, whisky production, flavour, ingredients, chemistry, the industry, and everything in-between. 


Kicking off with a welcome highball and canapés, guests chatted in the distillery's bar before heading into the private tasting room where our host for the evening was Distillery Manager Heather Tillot (who better than the person responsible for the spirit being produced today, nearing 10 years with the distillery?)


For the next few hours Heather covered all aspects of Sullivans Cove - it's history, future, production nuances, spirit character, and with guests including wine writers and chefs, the questions were varied, considered and prompted fascinating discussion, all with a trio of single cask Sullivans Coves in-hand (the 18yo French Oak from a refill cask, full maturating, was a particular highlight for me).

After a while though, it was time to grab a glass and head into the distillery for a tour, where the discussion continued over a walk through of the mashing, fermenting and distilling processes.


 

Back in our seats, it was time for the main reason we were all gathered - to taste the pair of 25 Year Olds. 


Thoughtfully prepared in two different glass types (a 1920s Blender's Glass for HH0010, alongside a Riedel Veritas for HH0056, with Glencairns on the side should we wish to compare), each dram was accompanied by details on each bottling, as follows:
  • Cask HH0010 - 25 Year Old Refill American Oak (300L). 12/10/1999 - 6/5/2025. 47.8% ABV, 349 bottles, $4,500AUD (by ballot or via The Whisky Club.
  • Cask HH0056 - 25 Year Old American Oak ex-Bourbon (200L). 16/11/1999 - 6/5/2025. 47.6% ABV. 134 bottles. $4,500AUD (by invitation only) 



Sullivans Cove 25 Year Old American Oak Ex-Bourbon (Cask HH0056) (47.6% ABV, Single Malt, 25yo, 1 of 134 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $4,500AUD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Colour: Medium orange golden.

Nose: Citrus / orange oil, with an undertone of dunnage warehouse "funk" (in a good way). Maple syrup, coconut oak, and vanilla milk chocolate.

Palate: Initially, big funky warehouse notes. I'm immediately reminded of the Aussie whiskies I remember tasting back in 2008, 2009. There's a toasted, bread note too, apricot and more citrus. After a good 20-30min, other notes emerge as the aforementioned notes recede into the background - aged oranges, berries, fruit spice, and even some hints of passionfruit.

Finish: Follows the palate faithfully, long and moreish, with tropical hints at the very end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100 (Martin). The years have done wonders for this whisky - it's clearly Australian, but with complexity and nuance you don't often see.



Sullivans Cove 25 Year Old American Oak Refill (Cask HH0010) (47.8% ABV, Single Malt, 25yo, 1 of 349 bottles, Tasmania, Australia, $4,500AUD)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Colour: Deep orange.

Nose: Slight warehouse funk, but more stone fruits, earthiness, and orange peels. After time, more citrus emerges - mandarin and tangerine. 

Palate: Mango, spice and just a hint of old, well-rested oak. Rich and viscous, the age and complexity is clearly evident. The slight earthiness from the nose carries through to the palate, and works well in harmony with the other notes.

Finish: Also follows the palate well, equally long, with delightful tropical hints at the very end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). Less "overtly Australian" than the HH0056, but every bit as complex and delicious. When this cask was laid down in 1999, 25 years clearly wasn't the goal, but I'm very glad that's how things turned out!

 


With the main event over, it was time to head to the bar to taste some of the many Sullivans Cove releases released over the previous years, that I'd missed out on trying due to living overseas. That included last year's 24 year old (closer in style to HH0056 I found, but with more dried fruit from the Apera maturation), the "dumpy" 21 (delightful), an LMDW Indie and more.




A huge thanks to the distillery for allowing us to be part of this momentous occasion in Australian whisky.

Cheers,
Martin.

TimeforWhisky.com flew to and stayed in Hobart courtesy of Sullivans Cove. 

Thursday, 23 October 2025

Sullivans Cove releases Australia's First 25 Year Old Whisky (twice)

Absolutely HUGE news in Australian Whisky today, as Sullivans Cove release not one, but TWO 25 Year Old Australian whiskies - the oldest Australian whiskies ever released. A huge achievement and milestone for the Aussie whisky industry - and new world whisky in general.




Both from single casks laid down in 1999, HH0056 was matured in a 200L ex-Bourbon American Oak barrel, and yielded only 154 bottles at 47.6% ABV, available via invitation only.

HH0010 was matured in a larger 300L Refill American Oak barrel, and yielded 349 bottles at 47.8% ABV, to be available via ballot (and via The Whisky Club).

  


Given most new world whisky distilleries weren’t even around 25 years ago (and the climate in many such locations aren’t as conducive to long maturation as they may be in Scotland), 25 years is an impressive feat.

“To see two of our casks mature out to 25 years is something we did not expect.” said former distillery manager and owner Patrick Maguire, whilst CEO Andy Gaunt noted “This release is more than just a rare single cask, it’s a living record of our history, proof of what patience and conviction can achieve, and a statement of what world whisky has become.”

Having recently tried a few Sullivans Cove releases around 20-21 years old, I can say they carry every bit as much complexity and flavour as their Scottish counterparts, and I look forward to trying the new 25 Year Olds (which I'll be doing in just a few hours!)

Cheers,
Martin.

Wednesday, 28 August 2024

TimeforWhisky.com interviews Spirit of the Craft Award winners Westward Whiskey, Launceston Distillery, Raasay Distillery & Macaloney's Distillery

We recently posted news on Facebook of a new Spirits Awards (hear us out...), the first from Asia, focusing on smaller producers around the world. "Spirit of Craft Awards" was launched in January of this year, and involves a panel of experts from Asia's bar and drinks media community.

Over three months, entries from across 15 countries – Australia, Cambodia, Canada, Finland, France, Germany, India, Indonesia, Italy, Scotland, Singapore, Thailand, New Zealand, Netherlands, and the U.S. – made their way to Singapore for judging by a panel of 36 judges in early May, with the results announced shortly after.

The full list of 2024/2025 winners can be found here, but we were lucky enough to score an interview with four of the winners, including both "3 Star" winners Isle of Raasay & Launceston Distillery, as well as Westward Distillery (whose whiskies we've covered a few times on the blog) & Macaloney Distillery

We wanted to understand what made their whiskies unique, the industry changes they've seen, how they engage customers in an increasingly crowded market, and any learnings they've picked up about running a distillery. So without further ado, we bring the answers from:
  • Launceston Distillery Head Distiller / Production Manager - Chris Condon
  • Raasay Distillery Co-Founder and Master Distiller - Alasdair Day
  • Westward Distillery Master Blender - Miles Munroe; and
  • Macaloney's Island Distillery President & Master wheiskymaker - Dr Graeme Macaloney

The view from Raasay Distillery's warehouse


1. There’s a lot of great whisky out there, and a lot of distilleries who’ve opened in the past 5-10 years. In a sentence of two, what makes yours stand out?
  • Launceston: "We are a boutique whisky distillery, solely focussed on producing hand-crafted single malts. Our location in a restored heritage-listed aircraft hangar is an obvious point of difference. We also try to stay true to ourselves, an independent distillery that strives to consistently make high quality small batch whisky."
  • Raasay: "We do everything on Raasay - using water from our well at the distillery for mashing, fermentation, cooling, cask reduction and reduction to bottling strength. We mature all of our spirits in our own warehouses and bottle everything on site, where we now employ over 40 people who live on Raasay (an island with a population of only 161!). Our community and island are a constant source of inspiration, seen in the bespoke Isle of Raasay bottles with hand printed rock and fossil formations from our complex geology. Our spirit directly reflects and truly represents the island where it is created."
  • Westward: "At Westward, which is located in the heart of the American Northwest we’re beholden to whiskey, not the traditions that surround it. Westward is brewed like a Pale Ale, distilled like a Single Malt, and aged like a Bourbon. Our whiskeys are matured to perfection in Oregon, one of the most fertile barley-growing regions in the world, where our unique hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters are the ideal environment to raise a world class whiskey."
  • Macaloney's: "The World Whiskies Awards (WWAs) in the UK are the most competitive in the world and conducted via blind tasting with industry-experienced judges. At these, our whisky and new-make underpinning our whiskies have won 3 'World's Best' and 8 'Category Best' gold medals. Our growing repeat sales, in Taiwan, across Europe, and elsewhere (we are interested to find a distributor for Australia) in an economic climate where Scotch sales are down, speaks to the excitement and interest in high quality whiskies with real craft provenance like ours."
Launceston Distillery


2. How have you seen the industry change in the time since you started?
  • Launceston: "There has been tremendous growth in the Tasmanian industry. The number of distilleries has doubled in that time. But consumers are now more aware of Tasmanian spirits, and there has been international recognition for the quality of whisky coming from Tasmania."
  • Raasay: "There have been some massive changes in the industry in Scotland since we founded R&B Distillers in July 2014. At that time there were only 90 operating distilleries in Scotland selling single malt whisky. Now there are over 150 malt and grain distilleries. There have been huge steps forward in technology since we designed our process for our Isle of Raasay distillery particularly in sustainable technology."
  • Westward: "Westward began in 2004. At the time, there were just 3 dozen craft distilleries in the U.S. Today, we’re proud to be a leader among more than 3,000. With that, it means that to truly stand out you have to have a distinct point of view, excellent quality credentials, and an innovative approach."
  • Macaloney's: "There has been a lot more interest in craft single malt as enthusiasts look for greater quality, yearn to understand what creates the flavours, and are interested in genuine provenance. Also connoisseurs have come to realise that quality is not tied to age and that deep complex maturation comes from best distilling practices and the best oak casks."
Westward's Miles Munroe


3. As a craft distillery, what’s the best way to engage new and potential fans?
  • Launceston: "For people who are not familiar with our whisky, nothing beats giving them a taste. Therefore, award programs like SOcraft provide valuable recognition and exposure, which gives new customers the confidence to taste our whisky for the first time."
  • Raasay: "We are creating experiences for all of our guests who visit our Isle of Raasay distillery. The adventure starts when you make the 25 minute ferry crossing from Sconser on Skye to the Isle of Raasay, then a short walk (and an even shorter drive) to the distillery. We have six luxury ensuite bedrooms, a restaurant, residents lounge and a bar all with amazing views looking back over the Sound of Raasay to the Cuillin Mountains on Skye. It's the perfect place to relax with a Raasay dram, gin or a cocktail and soak up the full Isle of Raasay experience!"
  • Westward: "We’re lucky to have won a host of awards and accolades, including the distinction as the #5 whisky in the world by Whisky Advocate. Those major acknowledgements – and the recognition of global authorities in whisky like Dave Broom, Becky Paskin, and others — have certainly helped us discover new fans and followers. We also love sharing what it is that we do with whiskey enthusiasts and visitors to the distillery, and proudly serves as an ‘open book’ in our approach to whiskey-making. This approach to transparency – where no question is off-limits – really helps us stay engaged with our customers."
  • Macaloney's: "Liquid to lips! We love to send ambassadors in to whisky clubs or into whisky stores for vertical tastings, and to festival masterclasses where enthusiasts can taste our quality and hear our story."
Macaloney Distillery tour


4. What’s your “go to” or everyday whisky from your line-up, and why? What about your “special occasion” whisky?
  • Launceston: "Our tawny cask matured whisky is a great everyday whisky. It has lovely fruity aromas and flavours, a rich smooth mouthfeel, and a finish that a judge recently compared to a ‘friendly bear hug’. It sips well neat,  but also has nice complexity that works well with cocktails. On special occasions we like our peated release. It is mildly peated with sweet bourbon and tawny influences to balance the smoke. This makes it very approachable, even for people who don’t like peat."
  • Raasay: "My "go to" whisky from our line-up is our signature Isle of Raasay Hebridean single malt as this represents everything we do on Raasay. 80% of our annual production is filling the casks for our unique Na Sia cask recipe - we mature 6 separate cask types and marry these together at bottling to created our lightly peated style with dark fruit flavours. My "special occasion" whisky is our fully matured Columbian Oak 'Quercus humboldtii' cask single malt. This has a depth of flavour and texture ranging from Creme brulee to oolong tea. It is very special indeed and a very unique cask type to the Scotch Whisky industry."
  • Westward: "The one to always reach for is Westward Whiskey Original, this is what began the innovative journey we’re still on. Our flagship whiskey is the trunk of the tree with almost all other variations branching off from this starting point.  It envelops everything about why we do what we do at Westward in the bottle.  My special occasion pour is most certainly Westward Whiskey Milestone.  Without a doubt the most elegant single malt we’ve produced, it's a marriage of our most highly prized casks and carefully blended over years in a twenty-one barrel Solera system."
  • Macaloney's: "Thats a tough question partly because there are all my babies, plus we uniquely distill 3 very different styles - Single malt, Triple distilled pot still, and Peated single malt (smoked at our distillery). Of the single malts i love the an loy because like japanese single malts it is delicate and nieuanced  but with great depth and bapanced complexity. For the triple pot still it has to be the kildara becuase it defeated 27 year old, 21 yo, 15yo and 12 yo redbreast irish whiskies to win worlds best!, And for the peated a favorite is hard to choose becuase the 15ppm an aba is delicately sherried, whereas the 27 ppm siol dugall is fantastic for its virgin and bourbon-wood influence, whereas our peat project sugar kelp infused 54ppm peated single cask is a spectacular exploration of terroir and merroir!"
Westward Distillery


5. When you were growing your distillery, which was more important - on-premise or off-premise / retail?
  • Launceston: "Both cannot be overlooked, and I would suggest they are as important as each other.  On-premise allows for new consumers to try our whisky without the outlay of a bottle purchase, however the retail space needs to be considered to give the consumer the easiest path to purchase once they have enjoyed it in a bar or restaurant."
  • Raasay: "All of our sales channels are very important to us. On-premise is where new and potential fans can discover our Isle of Raasay Hebridean single malt & gin, seeing our bottle stand out on the back bar and enjoy their first dram. Off-premise / retail is where fans and lovers of Isle of Raasay can acquire our spirits, satisfy their signature Raasay desires and seek out our latest special releases."
  • Westward: "Great question, and this has changed of course drastically through Covid and beyond. We look for a mix of both at Westward. We’re fortunate to have many enthusiasts in the bar world who respect what we do, and that is an excellent path for consumer discovery. But we also recognize that our whiskey needs to be available for a consumer who then wants to shop for our products.."
  • Macaloney's: "Off premise however i now realize our whiskies are amazing in cocktails so bars will be important going forward."
Launceston Distillery's "Angus"


6. What’s one thing you wish you knew about running a distillery before you began?
  • Launceston: "Sometimes the romance of running a distillery can be very different to the reality. It can be hard work and it requires patience and perseverance. But when everything comes together after years of maturation it is well worth the effort."
  • Raasay: "How difficult it can be to stay focused on our key messaging and continuously, consistently preach that key messaging to the world. "
  • Westward: "With Westward, we’re always planning several years ahead. The whiskey we make today won’t see the light of day for at least half a decade (give or take), and so we are always a step ahead. That includes some of our expansion efforts – like our capacity increase we recently underwent."
  • Macaloney's: "HOW HARD IT IS TO MAKE A PROFIT AFTER ALL THE COSTS AND TAXES!"
A stunning vista from Raasay Distillery

 
 



Thanks must go to Chris, Alasdair, Miles & Dr Graham for the time and answers, and to the great team at Food News Singapore for coordinating the responses & media.

Cheers,
Martin.



Monday, 5 August 2024

Starward Botrytis Cask [Tasted #673]

Before discovering Starward's latest release, the Botrytis Cask, I had never heard of Botrytis wine. A conversation with Martin revealed it's a type of dessert wine, piquing my interest to learn a bit more about this wine. Some reading into Botrytis wine unveiled fascinating details about this unique wine and how it influences Starward's new project release.

Botrytis is a type of fungus that shrivels and decays wine grapes (see below for an image of the fungus on a bunch of riesling grapes), yet is highly coveted in winemaking due to its ability to intensify sweetness and add flavour complexity. Known scientifically as Botrytis cinerea, this fungus is related to the strains used in penicillin and blue cheese. In winemaking, Botrytis dehydrates the grapes, concentrating their sugars and flavours, which makes the resulting wine richer and sweeter. This process, often referred to as 'noble rot,' creates dessert wines with unique notes of honey, beeswax, and ginger. Notable examples include France's Sauternes and Hungary's Tokaji Aszú."

Typically harvested late in the season, Botrytis wines undergo a meticulous, slow fermentation process and can age gracefully for decades. Their rarity and labour-intensive production often make them expensive and highly sought after as the grapes are often hand picked to ensure there is a balance between botrytis fruit amongst the grapes.

Now what happens when you age whisky in Botrytis wine casks? I gather that the whisky will impart the characteristics from the Botrytis wine; with added sweetness, complexity, and a perhaps a rich, multidimensional whisky. 

So this is exactly what Starward have done in their latest unveiling, the Starward Botrytis Cask, a single malt whisky, fully matured for seven years in fresh and charred casks that once held Botrytis Semillon dessert wine. It was first filled in 2017 and bottled this year. As Head Blender at Starward Jarrad Huckshold explained, he had to use both, fresh and charred Botrytis casks when creating this release The combination of two barrel finishes helped the liquid “develop the distinct dessert-like characteristics”. Jarrad added: “The fresh barrels impart those nuanced botrytis characteristics on our signature spirit; while the portion of casks that were charred offer a slightly savoury mouthfeel and balance out some of the dessert-like characteristics. This is a moreish whisky that will make an impression.” 

It is said that Botrytis casks are uncommon as they're only made in small quantities in Australia, making this release exceptionally rare for Starward. In Australia, Botrytis semillon is a notable example of this style, produced from semillon grapes affected by Botrytis cinerea. The Hunter Valley is particularly famous for its Botrytis semillon, where the warm and humid climate, morning fog, and cooler evenings create perfect conditions for the development of 'noble rot'. The Hungerford Hill Botrytis Semillon is one example, with notes of sweet apricots and marmalade, balanced with some lemon citrus, balancing the richness and finishing clean. 

Starward Botrytis Cask (48% ABV, Port Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, A$169)

The Starward Botrytis Cask, a single malt whisky, fully matured for seven years in fresh and charred casks that once held Botrytis Semillon dessert wine. Overall, it was a concoction of dessert flavours, almost resembling what I would call a Christmas whisky with the range of sweet, rich and delectable notes.

Nose: The nose opens with a rich aroma of wax honey, reminiscent of honeycomb, followed by a refreshing hint of peppermint, the smell of a lush winter morning. There’s a delectable scent of scrumptious Christmas cake, laden with dried fruits and spices, accompanied by a sweet cherry glaze. Notes of rum and raisin ice cream add a creamy, boozy undertone, while fresh apples and pears, and a medley of fruit salad, bring a lively, juicy character. Hints of burnt orange and cinnamon round out the nose, adding warmth and complexity.

Palate: On the palate, it is rich and indulgent, starting with the sweet, comforting taste of vanilla cupcakes. More of those succulent raisins and fruit bread come through, complemented by the flavour of rum-soaked bread, echoing the notes of a traditional Christmas cake from the nose that's packed with raisins. Cinnamon buns add a spicy sweetness. The chewy texture of caramel lollies adds a luscious, lasting sweetness, creating a beautifully balanced and layered experience.

FinishThe finish is exceptionally long. Glazed cherry remnants provide a sweet, fruity finish, with persistent notes of rum and raisin that carry through to the end. A subtle hint of mint gradually settles, offering a refreshing, clean conclusion.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

The Botrytis Cask is the latest addition to the illustrious lineup of project releases, adding to the previous project release expressions. Starward Botrytis Cask is a distillery-exclusive release— to get your hand on a bottle, you can enter the ballot here to secure your bottle. The ballot will be drawn on 21st August.

Thanks to the Starward team for providing a sample Botrytis Cask bottling for us to try

Cheers

Hendy

Sunday, 9 June 2024

Archie Rose Single Cask Series [Tasted #670 - #672]

In the world of whisky, few distilleries have carved out such a prominent place as quickly as Archie Rose Distillery in Sydney. Founded in 2014 by Will Edwards, Archie Rose has been known for innovating through all their different releases and for having quite unique proposition including their Tailored Spirits/Whisky Program and wood smoked whiskies. Guided by Master Distiller Dave Withers (one of the most knowledgable whisky folk we know and whom spent some time at the legendary Oak Barrel), Archie Rose has made leaps and bounds over the past decade to make a mark in the Australian whisky scene.

When Archie Rose first opened in 2014, the Australian whisky scene was quite different. Most people equated Australian whisky with Tasmanian whisky, and Sydney had been without a whisky distillery for a long time. In this landscape, Archie Rose emerged with its close proximity to Sydney city, a stunning bar (which we had reviewed back in 2015), unparalleled transparency, and a fresh attitude towards spirits. Along with Starward, which released its first whisky in 2013, Archie Rose began changing the scene.

A visit to Archie Rose in 2015 by Marto revealed the impressive setup and meticulous attention to detail in their production process. The original distillery, located in Rosebery, Sydney, was split into two sections: the production and cask storage on one side, and the stunning bar on the other. The distillery featured a hand-spun hopper for a 600kg mash, mash tun and stills by Peter Bailly, and Italian-made fermenters with temperature control. The distillation process includes a 3,600L steam-heated wash still, a 1,700L spirit still, and a 300L gin still for infusing botanicals. While Archie Rose has moved its distillery to Banksmeadow in 2020, much of the above equipment remain at their original site for display to the public.

Archie Rose’s innovative streak is quite evident over the years. They started with white spirits—gin, vodka, and white rye—and quickly expanded their offerings. The distillery’s approach to local sourcing is one of the things that sets them apart; they source all their malts locally and also use native ingredients such as red gum and stringybark for smoking their rye grain (as opposed to importing peated grain or peated barley).

They introduced the Tailored Spirits program, allowing customers to create their personalised gin, vodka, or whisky. The Tailored program, first, launched in 2015, has been pioneering in making personalised spirits accessible and affordable. In 2018, they continued their innovative pursuits by launching the Six Malt New Make, a new make blend derived from six different malt mash bills. This release provided insights into the base spirit of Archie Rose’s single malt whisky, showcasing their dedication to quality and depth from the start. More recent releases include Heritage Red Gum Cask Single Malt from earlier this year and Double Malt Whisky in 2023, released as part of Archie Rose's Fundamental Spirits Range.

Commencing this year, Archie Rose has also begun exporting their products to Asia, including markets like Korea, Malaysia, and Singapore. The expansion is part of their strategy to present a full portfolio of products and establish a strong international presence.

The upcoming Single Cask Series, to be released on 11 June, includes three distinct releases:

  • The Heritage Rye Malt Single Cask, aged in a single apera cask, serving as a homage to Australia’s heritage of fortified wines and showcasing Riverina-sourced heritage rye malt. This was my pick of the three.
  • The Single Malt Single Cask, an example of what makes Archie Rose’s signature whisky special. This single cask offers layer upon layer of malt-driven flavours, an excellent fruit profile, and a beautifully balanced apera cask influence. At four and a half years old and full cask strength, it delivers quite a powerful and incredibly complex whisky.
  • The Smoked Rye Malt Single Cask, made from NSW heritage rye grain, custom smoked over sustainably harvested Australian native stringybark, offering a truly unique and entirely Australian flavour profile. This cask-strength whisky balances sweetness, smoke, and rye spice with flavours reminiscent of campfire, grilled peaches, and prosciutto.

We sat down with Will and Dave as part of the launch of the Single Cask Batch 1 Release where they noted that one of the significant challenges in whisky production for them is in sourcing high-quality casks. Over the years, Archie Rose partnered closely with wineries though they have now also developed their own method of developing bespoke sherry casks. The process, managed in their Banksmeadow facility, ensures that each cask contributes uniquely to the whisky’s flavour profile. Both the Single Malt and Heritage Rye Malt single cask releases were bottled from ex apera casks.

Will and Dave also shared their thoughts and experience, particularly their frustration in dealing with rye early on in the Archie Rose journey. Rye, known for its glutinous nature, presents a different kind of challenge. Will spoke to the use of a new mash filters at their Banksmeadow facility which they didn't have at their original Rosebery distillery. Will shared his experience in dealing with rye early on, something akin to trying to sieve the liquid out of a porridge; that's basically what working with rye is like. With the new mash filters at the Banksmeadow facility, working with rye has become much more manageable.

"It's an amazing thing to come across a cask and say, 'This. This one right here. That's the essence of what we're trying to achieve." quoted Will Edwards

Single Cask Whisky Batch No. 1: Heritage Rye Malt (68.2% ABV, NAS, Sydney, Australia, A$299)

The Heritage Rye Malt Single Cask has been aged in a single apera cask, serving as a homage to Australia’s heritage of fortified wines and showcasing Riverina-sourced heritage rye malt. This was my favourite of the three single cask releases.

Nose: The aroma opens up nicely with the sweetness of honey and apricots, accompanied by the richness of cherries and plums. There is some rye spice and other spices adding a layer of depth and intrigue.

Palate: On the palate, it's very velvety, rich and mouth-filling layers of concentrated fruits, more apricots and cherries. These fruity notes are complemented by a hint of toasted oak, which adds a delicate woodiness.

Finish: The finish is long and luxurious, with the rich flavours of apricot and cherry persisting. There's a lingering fruit and spice.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)


Single Cask Whisky Batch No. 1: Single Malt (66.9% ABV, NAS, Sydney, Australia, A$349)

The Single Malt Single Cask is an incredible example of what makes Archie Rose’s signature whisky so special. This single cask offers layer upon layer of malt-driven flavours, an excellent fruit profile, and a beautifully balanced apera cask influence. At four and a half years old and full cask strength, it delivers quite a powerful and incredibly complex whisky.

Nose: The aroma opens with the rich sweetness of nougat, sticky raisins and Christmas pudding, creating a luscious mix of fruit (there's the apera influence). Some milk chocolate and orange citrus.

Palate: On the palate, roasted almonds and some chocolate, the milk chocolate, mixed with sticky date pudding. There is more on the rich fruit and spices.

Finish: The finish is long and dry, with the fruit and spices gradually giving way to a drying finish.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Hendy)


Single Cask Whisky Batch No. 1: Smoked Rye Malt (65.1% ABV, NAS, Sydney, Australia, A$269)

The Smoked Rye Malt Single Cask, made from NSW heritage rye grain, custom smoked over sustainably harvested Australian native stringy bark, offering a truly unique and entirely Australian flavour profile. 

Nose: The aroma is meaty and there is subtle hint of maple bacon and stone fruits. Subtle hints of ginger and honey add a delicate floral touch.

Palate: On the palate, there is a mix of peaches, and apricots. These notes are seamlessly joined by the nutty warmth of roasted almonds and the zesty notes. There are layers of caramel slice with a hint of peppermint (or eucalyptus) adding a refreshing lift.

Finish: The finish is long, as the flavours of fruit, nuts, and spice intertwine with smoky campfire notes. Te finish leaves a lasting impression of balanced sweetness and savoury umami depth.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Hendy)


Thanks Will & Dave from Archie Rose for hosting us and taking us through the new single cask series.

Cheers,

Hendy

Friday, 17 May 2024

Starward Bourbon Cask #1 and #2 [Tasted #661-662]

Earlier this week Starward released their second bourbon cask release, officially dubbed, the Starward Bourbon Cask #2. This second release follows the first Bourbon Cask which was released in mid 2018 and only saw an outturn of around 1,200 bottles. For this second bourbon cask release, Starward fans alike can join Starward’s ballot system to secure an allocation. It's not known how many bottles there are in the outturn.

I was fortunate enough to join David Vitale, Starward Founder and Charlie Dyer, Starward Blender this week to sample the Bourbon Cask #2. In fact, the tasting also featured the first bourbon cask release, Starward Nova (their OG red wine cask release) as well as a sample of their wash and new make spirit to give people a sense of evolution of the liquid. It was fascinating to contrast the Bourbon Cask #2 with Bourbon Cask #1, side by side, and while they share the same ABV, they are both distinctly unique. You’ll find my tasting notes on both down the bottom but I thought it would be good to recap a bit of Starward’s history.

Time for Whisky has always been a friend of Starward, dating all the way back to early 2013 when David met Martin in Sydney while David was in Sydney to introduce the “New World Whisky Distillery;” was then renamed Starward. 2013 was also the year Starward’s first whisky was released, Solera, matured in Australian ex-Apera casks and the initial release embodied David’s vision of creating a distinct, tasty yet uniquely Australian whisky. 

Since then Starward has gone strength to strength, having attracted funding from Diego in 2015, followed by the relocation of their distillery from the old Essendon Fields to Port Melbourne in 2016, expanded their core range to include Two Fold Double Grain whisky (dubbed the everyday whisky) in 2019 and receiving numerous gold medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, underscoring the success of their approach and the quality of their products. Over the years, Starward’s spirit has also evolved, having begun with a somewhat estery profile due to  the small-scale distillation and over time, improvements in their brewing, fermentation, and distillation have led to a more balanced spirit.

Despite their growth, Starward have very much retained their unique fruit notes, in particular, the banana note. In fact, this distinct fruit profile was what David proudly attribute to what makes Starward unique, The fruity profile, in particular the banana note has been a hallmark of Starward whisky, which David has committed to retain while enhancing balance. David’s ethos has always been on how to best produce a distinctly Australian whisky that reflects the local climate, ingredients, and culture. 

Many of Starward’s releases since have been inspired by the vibrant culture and the regional influences. Starward has always had a focus on using local ingredients, including Australian malted barley and locally sourced wine barrels. In addition, Melbourne's 'four seasons in a day' climate has been said to influence the Starward whisky aging process. Allowing for faster maturation compared to traditional regions and David has termed the maturation years as the “Melbourne years”

Since the beginning, Starward's signature play was with the use of red wine barrels for aging, which added unique fruit and oak characteristics to their whisky. The use of red wine barrels has been a significant factor in creating a unique flavour profile, contributing to Starward's distinctive character.

So then, what's the fuss with the bourbon cask release?

The first Starward Bourbon Cask release, known as Starward Bourbon Cask 1, was released in mid 2018 with an outturn of 1,200 bottles. Bourbon Cask #1 was Starward's experimentation with different types of barrels to create unique whisky expressions. This release marked their venture into using ex-bourbon barrels for aging their whisky, differing from their usual practice of using red wine barrels. In fact, their first foray into bourbon cask got them to work on the second bourbon cask, almost immediately after.

The use of ex-Wild Turkey and ex-Maker Mark's bourbon casks imparted distinct flavours to the whisky, adding vanilla, caramel, and subtle spice notes. This contrasted with the fruit-forward profile typically associated with their red wine barrel-aged expressions. The whiskey retained the characteristic balance of spirit, oak, and fruit that Starward is known for, but with the added complexity from the bourbon cask influence. Overall, the first Starward Bourbon Cask release was a significant milestone for the distillery, and as such paved the way for this subsequent significant milestone for Starward, their second Bourbon Cask release.

Starward Bourbon Cask #2 has been described as an inverse to their highly awarded and signature red wine barrel maturation style. With a 52% ABV, one might think both bourbon cask releases are identical but the decision on the ABV was made to showcase the whisky as what the Blender has intended to showcase. Starward's second Bourbon Cask release sees their malt fully matured in bourbon barrels for five 'Melbourne years'. Similar to Bourbon Cask #1, Bourbon Cask #2 also saw the use of ex-Wild Turkey and ex-Maker's Mark bourbon barrels.

As Charlie Dyer, Starward Blender noted, ‘there’s nothing to hide behind with bourbon barrels’ and these casks provided the perfect, neutral canvas to let the Starward new make spirit shine. Expect all those deliciously tropical fruit notes from the fermentation process to shine through. 

It took Starward nine years to release their first Bourbon Cask in 2018, and another six years to release Bourbon Cask #2…. who knows if there will be another.

Starward Bourbon Cask #1 (52% ABV, Port Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, A$199)

The inaugural bourbon cask release has its own complexity.

Nose: The nose opens with a rich, inviting note of vanilla, followed by a more concentrated vanilla essence that adds depth and sweetness. A comforting note of cereal emerges, reminiscent of freshly milled grains. Juicy berries add a burst of fruity freshness, while the honeyed sweetness of Weet-Bix cereal blends in. A cool, refreshing hint of peppermint provides a crisp, clean finish to the nose profile.

Palate: The initial palate reveals subtle yet creamy vanilla notes, setting a smooth foundation. This is quickly joined by the tart, vibrant flavor of raspberries, which adds a lively contrast. A hint of Starward's banana note is followed by honey which introduces a tropical sweetness, complemented by pineapple notes that bring a bright, citrusy touch. Rich molasses adds a deep, caramel-like sweetness.

Finish: The finish is relatively short but leaves a lasting impression of sweet berries. The prominent tannin creates a dry, lingering sensation.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 91/100 (Hendy)


Starward Bourbon Cask #2 (52% ABV, Port Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, A$169)

So what was my impression of their second bourbon cask, in summary, delicious, a lot richer, flavourful and more vibrant, when compared side by side with their first bourbon cask release.

Nose: A delightful medley of aromas greets you, starting with the sweet, nutty scent of nougat and the floral, delicate notes of rosewater. Vanilla essence provides a creamy undertone, while a fresh burst of peppermint adds a cooling sensation. The herbaceous hints bring a touch of earthiness, complemented by the tropical scent of coconut shavings. Subtle whispers of raspberries and banana introduce a fruity sweetness, rounded out by the rich, caramelized aroma of grilled pineapple.

Palate: The first sip delivers a vibrant burst of mixed berries, enveloping the palate with their juicy sweetness. This is followed by a zesty Sunburst orange note that adds a refreshing citrusy twist. Black pepper provides a spicy kick, balanced by a cool hint of peppermint. The flavors evolve into a creamy strawberries and vanilla shake, offering a smooth and indulgent experience. A subtle hint of pineapple lingers, adding a final touch of tropical fruitiness.

Finish: The finish is exceptionally long, leaving a lasting impression of ripe berries and smooth vanilla. The tropical essence of coconut shavings adds a delicate, nutty sweetness, while the finish concludes with a satisfying tannin that provides a dry, lingering end, leaving you with a well-rounded, memorable taste experience.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

Given the limited edition release, Starward has opened their ballot system for everyone who's wanting to secure a bottle to register on their website. Starward fans alike can register themselves into the ballot which will be open until 2nd June

Cheers
Hendy

Friday, 19 May 2023

Starward Stout Cask [Tasted #636]

Get ready to raise your glass, or rather your beer glass. Starward Whisky's latest creation combines the art of brewing and distilling. The expression, dubbed, Starward Stout Cask, is seek to combine flavours derived from whisky together with those flavours imparted by imperial stout beer. 

To create Starward Stout Cask, the Starward team have combined Starward's core whisky, from their renowned red wine and small format Apera barrels which is then aged for an additional 18 months in barrels from Brick Lane's highly acclaimed 'Trilogy of Fear' imperial stout series. The aging in the stout barrels is said to add bold and captivating flavours to Starward's tropical fruit and vanilla notes.

Sam Slaney, the Production Director at Starward, expressed his enthusiasm for the project, stating, 

"We love the change of seasons at Starward, and the colder weather means the perfect time for a stout! Brick Lane's amazing Trilogy of Fear series showcases complex dark malt and a rich texture, allowing our whisky to soak up all the robust flavor from these stout-soaked barrels. This limited release has been brewing for some time, and we couldn't be happier with the result."

Bottled at 52% ABV, Starward Stout Cask balances rich roasted characteristics with Starward's signature notes. With the flavours that have been imparted by the stout barrels, Starward Stout Cask is an ideal candidate as a boilermaker or just drunk neat. Starward have recommended pairing it with a barrel aged stout though it says it complements other craft beer equally as well.

Let's dive into the Stout Cask neat for now...


Starward Stout Cask (52% ABV, Melbourne, Australia, A$169)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A rather delicious and fun release from Starward combining Starward's traditional tropical fruit notes with a layer of malt and chocolate. The nose and palate are fun filled and quite enjoyable neat. Definitely a great input into a boilermaker.

Nose: Lots of tropical fruits, pineapples, lychees, passionfruit followed by a layer of vanilla, milk chocolate, maple syrup, and oat biscuits

Palate: The palate is equally fruity, with banana lollies and vanilla ice cream at first before some notes of  passionfruit and mangosteen that follow before light white pepper spices mixed with some milk chocolate to end

Finish: Oat biscuit and milk chocolate with a lingering white pepper spice

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy) 

Before its official launch, selected venues across Australia will offer Starward Stout Cask boilermakers starting from May 20th for a limited time. There's also the opportunity to grab the bottle through Starward's ballot system via their website. Ballot registration opens 10 May with the ballot drawn from 5 June.

Thanks to Starward for providing us with a sample as well as the pairing imperial stout cask from Trilogy of Fear.