Benriach 2013 Triple Sherry Cask / Easter Treats [Tasted #695]

I've always had a soft spot for Benriach. From their creative use of casks to their mix of peated and unpeated styles, they’ve always stood out as a distillery.

We’ve followed Benriach’s journey for years—through revivals, reinventions, and releases that surprise and delight the whisky faithful. From the distillery’s humble beginnings in 1897 under John Duff, to its dormancy post-Pattison crash and its spectacular rebirth under Billy Walker in 2004, Benriach has always carved its own path.

This Speyside distillery has long been known for its eclectic cask use, malting traditions, and its spirit of experimentation. Under the creative guidance of Master Blender Dr Rachel Barrie, the past few years have seen Benriach embrace that innovation with bold new expressions like The Smoky Ten, Malting Season, and The Twenty One—a favourite of mine for its complex peated/unpeated balance and four-cask harmony.

This year, Benriach is bringing something a little special to Aussie whisky lovers, teaming up with KOI Dessert Bar and The Whisky Club to create two Easter indulgences. One for the dessert lovers, one for the whisky drinkers (or, both!).

KOI Dessert Bar has reimagined the classic hot cross bun into something far more decadent (or rather bougie and sweet :)) – the “Scotch Cross Bun.” This Easter-only treat is made with rich vanilla mousse and whisky-soaked currants, featuring Benriach’s The Original Ten as its boozy backbone. Available in KOI stores across Sydney and Melbourne from 11 April, it’s the kind of thing that pairs perfectly with a good dram – or two.

And speaking of drams, the Benriach 2013 Triple Sherry Cask is a one-off vintage crafted exclusively for The Whisky Club by Master Blender Dr Rachel Barrie. This Speyside gem has been matured in a trio of PX and Oloroso sherry casks, offering a bold, rich and dessert-like profile.

The cask story here is a clever one—a triple sherry cask maturation that brings together:

1. A full maturation in Oloroso sherry casks,
2. A whisky that was first matured in ex-Bourbon casks and then spent five years in Oloroso,
3. And another parcel that began in ex-Bourbon, then rested for four years in PX sherry casks.

Each component brings its own personality to the mix—nutty dryness from the Oloroso, syrupy richness and dried fruit from the PX, and a core of honeyed vanilla from the ex-Bourbon.

As Dr Rachel Barrie puts it:

“You might find a cherry and chocolate torte… then into lovely almond, orange and deep tiramisu. And that is served with a delicious macchiato. So very rich, multi-layered, but still delicate. And that’s the beauty of Benriach.”

I had the chance to sit down with the Triple Sherry Cask, and it didn’t disappoint. It's a sherry bomb, on the nose, it’s fruit cake, rum and raisins, rich caramel and creamy tiramisu. The palate is rich, syrupy, follows through with tiramisu cake, cream puff, and some nutmeg and warming ginger spice.

The 2013 Triple Sherry Cask is a fantastic example of what the Benriach distillery does so well: bold flavour, clever cask work, and loads of character. Along with KOI’s Scotch Cross Bun and you’ve got the ultimate Easter indulgence.

Benriach 2013 Triple Sherry Cask [Whisky Club Bottling] (48.4% ABV, Speyside, Scotland, A$125)

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Nose: Fruit cake, rum and raisins, and a rich wave of caramel. There’s creamy tiramisu in there too, along with a hint of cherry—like a boozy dessert platter fresh from the kitchen.

Palate: It's a sherry bomb, all indulgences and very rich. Tiramisu cake, rum and raisin, cream puffs, a sprinkle of nutmeg, and a warming hit of ginger spice. It’s very decadent and rich, with chocolate shavings, sweet date, and a slight tartness to balance things out.

Finish: Long, smooth, and warming. The ginger spice lingers beautifully, carrying the sweetness through to the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Hendy) 

Whether you’re after a unique whisky to sip on over the long weekend or just looking for something to pair with your Easter sweets, this is one release that hits the mark.

Cheers
Hendy

Spirit of Craft Awards return for 2025 - TimeforWhisky.com interviews two winners

Last August we post about Asia's new Spirits Awards focusing on smaller producers around the world - "Spirit of Craft Awards", launched in January 2024. At the time, we interviewed a number of the winners to learn about their fascinating journeys in distilling and marketing whisky..

With the 2nd edition of the Awards coming up (with entries closing in just a few days) we thought it would be fun to re-visit some of the winners and ask them some questions specifically about the market in Asia. Tania Unsworth (Co-Founder of Seekers Independent Spirits) and Allison Renfrew (Head of Marketing for Isle of Raasay) were good enough to answer our questions

1) How do you see / approach the broader market in Asia - and have you seen any shifts since the first awards? Are there any particular Asian markets you’re focusing on in the future?

Seekers Spirits: Asia is an incredibly dynamic and exciting region for craft spirits. There’s a growing appreciation for high-quality, locally produced spirits, driven by a younger, more adventurous consumer base that values both authenticity and sustainability. We’ve always taken a region-first approach, focusing on flavors and ingredients that resonate with Asian palates while ensuring that our products meet international quality standards.

SOCraft Awards launched at a time where there’s more curiosity and confidence in homegrown brands. Asian consumers and bartenders are increasingly looking for spirits that have a real sense of place rather than defaulting to imported brands. This plays to our strengths, as our spirits, from Seekers Mekong Dry Gin to Jason Kong Butterfly Gin, highlight regional botanicals and flavors. Looking ahead, we’re particularly focused on growing our market share in Thailand and Vietnam, where craft spirits are really gaining traction. At the same time, we’re looking to establish strong distribution partnerships in Singapore and Hong Kong, both of which have world-class cocktail scenes.

Isle of Raasay: Asia is an exciting and rapidly evolving market, it offers a broad and diverse landscape of tastes, preferences, and cultures that provide great opportunities for Raasay Distillery. The growth of craft spirits and whisky culture in Asia, especially among younger, more discerning drinkers, has been a key development we’ve observed. SOCraft was a fantastic platform for showcasing our whisky and is a real credit to the hard work from our dedicated team on Raasay. The positive reception of this award has helped build awareness with consumers and we have found that awards like this really grab people's interest to try and explore new brands. Looking ahead, we’re working closely with markets like Japan and Southeast Asia. Interestingly, we will be attending our first whisky show in Singapore this year which we are really looking forward to.

2) What’s some advice you could give for brands looking to get into Asia, or specific markets in Asia?

Seekers Spirits: Absolutely. Asia is not a single, homogenous market—it’s a complex mix of cultures, drinking preferences, and regulatory environments. My main advice would be to take the time to understand each market individually. What works in Singapore may not work in Cambodia or Japan. Find strong local partners who understand the trade Platforms like SOCraft are invaluable because they provide validation, exposure, and access to industry professionals who are genuinely passionate about craft spirits. Winning an award at SOCraft isn’t just about a medal—it’s a signal to bartenders, distributors, and consumers that your product meets a high standard. The media visibility that comes with it also helps open doors to new markets.

Isle of Raasay: Entering the Asian market requires patience, cultural understanding, and an adaptable strategy. My advice would be to first do thorough market research to understand the local drinking habits, trends, and regulatory requirements for your category. Each country has its own preferences and unique challenges. For example, Japan has an established whisky tradition, whereas Southeast Asia may have a more experimental consumer base. Brands should prioritise building relationships with local distributors, bars, and restaurants, as these partnerships are critical to getting your product in front of the right audience. Networking with local influencers, industry professionals, and participating in events like SOCraft are great ways to introduce your brand, establish credibility, and create long-term connections.  SOCraft has helped us showcase our whiskies quality and credentials, so I would recommend it.

3) How do you balance between addressing the needs of customers looking to use your spirits in cocktails, against those looking to drink neat / straight? In terms of promotion, events, working with on-premise etc..?

Seekers Spirits: For us, it’s about versatility without compromise. We design our spirits to work beautifully in cocktails while still standing strong on their own. For example, Seekers Mekong Coffee Liqueur has enough depth and complexity to be sipped neat but also integrates perfectly into an Espresso Martini. Our wood-finished Mekong Gold Gin, works beautifully as a whiskey substitute in traditionally whisky based cocktails, but is exceptionally smooth and complex and can be enjoyed just on the rocks. When it comes to promotion, we work closely with bartenders to showcase the versatility of our range. We host masterclasses, tasting events, and brand collaborations that highlight the full potential of our spirits.

At bars and restaurants, we encourage venues to include a range of serves, ensuring different consumer preferences are catered to.

Isle of Raasay: At Isle of Raasay Distillery our aim is to make whisky consumption enjoyable and accessible to all, so showing variety of ways to consume allows us to do so. We primarily focus on enjoying the whisky neat but at events and on-premise we have the opportunity to be creative in the serves. For example, we recommend trying a Draamhattan which uses our Isle of Raasay Single Malt, The Draam instead of american whiskey. For those who prefer to drink our spirits neat or straight, we emphasize the quality, craftsmanship, and distinctive flavour profiles of our whiskies, highlighting our unique distillation process of using peated and unpeated spirit.

For the on-premise, we work closely with bars and restaurants, and provide training and support for staff on how to best use our products in mixed drinks. At events, we like to offer tastings that reflect who we are as a brand. We like to bring fun and engagement into the learning experience.

4) What has winning your award(s) last year meant for your brand?

Seekers Spirits: Winning at SOCraft was a great moment for us. It reinforced that what we’re doing—both in terms of liquid quality and sustainable production—is resonating with the industry. The recognition helped us build credibility in key markets, opening up conversations with distributors and bars that might not have been familiar with Seekers before.

It also validated our approach to craft spirits in Asia. We believe that local production, premium ingredients, and sustainable sourcing can compete at an international level, and the SOCraft awards proved that. It’s given us even more motivation to push forward, continue innovating, and showcase what Asia has to offer to the world of spirits.

Isle of Raasay: Winning the SOCraft award last year was an incredible recognition for Raasay Distillery. It validated the hard work and passion we put into every bottle, and it gave us increased credibility in a competitive market. It reinforced that we are producing something special, and we are very proud of that.

Many thanks to Tania & Allison for taking the time to answer our questions, and to the team at Foodnews Singapore for making the interview happen!

Cheers,

Martin.

Benromach Contrasts range - Unpeated and Virgin Oak [Tasted #693 - 694]

We've been pretty fortunate here at TimeforWhisky to try some old and incredibly rare Benromach releases over the years. The last we tried was a 46yo single cask from 1972 (one of only 75 bottles) and the one before that a 41yo single cask from 1974. One thing we found with each of these was that they were incredibly delicious, well-made whisky, bottled at just the right time.

The thing is, "delicious" and "well-made" seems to be something that applies across the Benromach range, right down to the entry level 10 Year Old. I've referred to Benromach as a distillery who just make incredibly good, honest whisky, and I still stand by that today.

...which brings us to the "Contrasts" range, aiming to present a different (or Contrasting) view of Benromach, via a core range consisting of "Peat Smoke" and "Organic" , and a number of "Guest Contrasts" including the two we're tasting today - "Virgin Oak" (10yo and fully-matured in Virgin American Oak casks) and "Unpeated" (9yo and matured in a mix of ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry casks).

Benromach Contrasts Unpeated (46% ABV, Single Malt, 9yo, Speyside, Scotland)

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Colour: Light gold

Nose: Light, with hints of heather, oatcakes, pear, stewed fruits and just a lovely classic fruity Speyside nose.

Palate: Consistent with the nose, with a touch of herbaceousness, dried apricot, red apple and some salted caramel.

Finish: Floral and lifted, with some ginger notes through to the end.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 88/100 (Martin). 

Benromach Contrasts Virgin Oak (46% ABV, Single Malt, 10yo, Speyside, Scotland)

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Colour: Orange gold.

Nose: Oak and citrus spice, with some banana chips and bacon.

Palate: Sweet, less spiced than the nose suggests, more herbal and savoury, with some hints of smoked oranges.

Finish: Butter Menthol lozenges and mature oak.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). 

Cheers,

Martin.

Diageo Special Releases 2024 [Tasted #685 - 692]

A belated Happy New Year! What better way to get into the 2025 swing of things than with Diageo's "Special Releases" set (from uh, 2024, LOL). This year I'm trying something new with some quick-fire IG reel video reviews (the first here) which may well continue throughout 2025, but for those who like our lengthier written reviews, they'll continue too. Read on...

For those unfamiliar with Diageo’s Special Releases, they've been around since 2001, but have become somewhat different in recent years. Longer term whisky fans will recall the series being focused on well-aged examples of popular Diageo malts and grains, some from closed distilleries. However as the demand, scarcity (and of course price) for those rose - especially Brora and Port Ellen - Diageo took them out of the Special Releases in 2018 and put them into other series (like Prima & Ultima) and some one-off releases (like Port Ellen Gemini & Brora Triptych).

Hendy and I have covered Special Releases for a while now, having seen this evolution first hand (see our 2016, 2018/2019, 2020, 2021 & 2022 articles), and at times we've even been lucky enough to try the rarer malts that are no longer in Special Releases, like this 41yo Port Ellen and this 40yo Brora. Despite the changes, we always get a thrill from new Special Releases, and it's always fun to see well-known (and not so well-known) whiskies in a new light.

So, what do we have in the 2024 lineup? 

8 whiskies, all from operational distilleries, spanning 8-21yo (and one NAS). We have mainstays of the collection (like Lagavulin 12 Cask Strength and more recently, Talisker 8yo) but some more unusual releases too, like a 21yo Benrinnes, the second ever release of Roseisle, and an unpeated Caol Ila!

(We even have a dram finished in "stone spun" casks, and no I had no idea what they were either...)

Let’s get into them…

Roseisle 12yo "Origami Kite II" (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (55.6% ABV, Single Malt, 12yo, Speyside, Scotland, $1,080HKD / £112.50)
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To be honest this was probably the one that interested me the most last year, as the inaugural release from this Speyside distillery that only opened in 2010. It didn’t disappoint (quality-wise) so I’m eager to see how this second release fares, especially as it shares age and cask types in common with 2023’s. I really appreciate that despite the focus of the range, Diageo have kept this one simple without fancy cask finishes.

Colour: Light honey.

Nose: Honied spice, slight hints of white pepper with a vanilla creaminess.

Palate: Consistent with the nose, with spice at the front of the palate, followed by a creamy sweet vanilla noteat the back. Very subtle tropical hints - mango mostly.

Finish: Med to long finish with notes of vanilla cream.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 89/100 (Martin). Strong showing, like last year.

The Singleton of Glen Ord 14yo "Autumnal Walk" (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (54.7% ABV, Single Malt, 14yo, Highlands, Scotland, $1,215HKD / £110)
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Not everyone knows this, but Singleton is actually a brand rather than a distillery, and there are a few distilleries (Dufftown, Ord, Glendullan) sold under the label. Of the 3 Ord (which this is) is my favourite, with some amazing releases in the past (especially the 16yo Manager’s Dram). This one saw maturation in ex-Bourbon, ex-wine and refill casks with Pyrenean and Spanish Oak cask ends.

Colour: Orange marmalade.

Nose: Candied orange peel, stone fruits (pear mostly) and some hints of strawberry.

Palate: Retains the fruity confectionary notes of the palate, alongside some woodspice and sweet ginger.

Finish: Long, with subtle oak tannins and citrus.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 87/100 (Martin). 

Oban 10yo "Coastal Orchard" (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (58% ABV, Single Malt, 10yo, Highlands, Scotland, $890HKD / £108.33)
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From the first whisky distillery I ever visited! Part finished in new, freshly-charred Oloroso-seasoned American oak barrels and bottled at 58%.

Colour: Amber gold.

Nose: Slight cereal spice, with apricot hints. Breakfast in a glass!

Palate: The spice and apricot from the nose follows, with a more rounded, creamy mouthfeel with hints of custard, slight oak, and berry spice. I didn't find much sherry influence, despite the use of Oloroso-seasoned casks.

Finish: Oak spice.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 86/100 (Martin). Breakfast dram.

Mortlach “Midnight Dusk” (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (57.5% ABV, Single Malt, NAS, Speyside, Scotland, $1,980HKD / £208.33)
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The only NAS in the lineup, this Mortlach deviates from the usual heavy, meatier, darker nature with a lighter, more youthful spirit, thanks to finishing in both red and white Italian wine casks. 

Colour: Yellow gold.

Nose: Youthful and grassy, with noticeable new oak.

Palate: Simple and straightforward, with stone fruits and subtle salty smoke, followed by apple, pineapple and salted caramel

Finish: Long with a slight oak astringency.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 86/100 (Martin). I always enjoy seeing whiskies presented in a different light, but if I’m honest I don’t see nearly $2,00HKD worth of value in this one...

Benrinnes 21yo “Grand Crescendo” (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (55.4% ABV, Single Malt, 21yo, Speyside, Scotland, $3,625HKD / £283.33)
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The oldest and most expensive in the line up, Speyside’s Benrinnes has (as far as I’m aware) only featured in Special Releases twice since the start, also last time in a 21yo in 2014 with a heavy sherry influence. This time around it’s been matured in a mix of American and European Oak wine casks, interestingly with a finish that’s longer than the original maturation (13yrs vs 8yrs).

Colour: Dark orange gold.

Nose: Subtle, understated and elegant. Nutty hints, berry hints and some toffee.

Palate: Soft, elegant but still powerful. Sherry notes are there, but they're subtle, slowly growing. Cherries, baked pie crust, hints of strawberry.

Finish: Long, baked cherry pie.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). Probably my top pick of the lineup this year (just edging out the Roseisle).

Caol Ila 11yo “Ambrosial Feast” (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (% ABV, Single Malt, 11yo, Islay, Scotland, $820HKD)

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As many of my whisky mates have heard me say, I reckon Caol Ila is one of the most versatile spirits out there. It can be delicious under 10yo, fantastic in its mid to late teens, beautiful in its 20s, and so on (and don’t get me started on early 1980s…beautiful spirit). What’s most interesting about this 11yo release however is it’s a rarely-seen unpeated Caol Ila! It’s not the first time we’ve seen one (there was one in 2015 and if I’m not mistaken, 2018 too) but it’s certainly not common, and for me is probably the most interesting “twist” we see in the lineup this year.

Colour: Yellow gold.

Nose: Oranges, pear, mango with an underlying nuttiness.

Palate: Less fruity than the nose, more hazelnut icecream, honey and oak (but with subtle hints of mango from the nose)

Finish: Long, with slight oak tannins

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 87/100 (Martin).

Talisker 8yo “Tidal Churn” (Diageo Special Releases 2024) (58.7% ABV, Single Malt, 8yo, Islands, Scotland, $780HKD / £75)

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I’m always excited to try a new young Talker, mostly because the 8yo from 2018’s Special Releases still holds the title of best young Talisker I’ve ever tried - and probably best 8yo whisky I’ve ever tried! If you ever come across a bottle, do yourself a favour and try it - you won’t be disappointed. With that lofty benchmark set, we have this year’s 8yo which is said to be finished in “stone-spun” casks. Yep...."stone-spun". I like to think I’m pretty au fait with whisky terminology, but that was a new one for me. As best I can tell, it’s a method of decharring a cask using stones and water. Ok...

Colour: Straw

Nose: Saline, coastal, very slight peat but of a coastal/maritime nature, not iodine or BBQ-esque.

Palate: More peat than the nose suggests, with brine, nutty salted fish, and some noticeable camfourwood.

Finish: Medium in length, with strong salinity.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 86/100 (Martin). 

Lagavulin 12yo “Fireside Tails”(Diageo Special Releases 2024) (57.4% ABV, Single Malt, 12yo, Islay, Scotland, $1,250HKD / £129.17)
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The mainstay of the special releases - Lagavulin’s famed 12yo Cask Strength. One of the most consistent and enjoyable releases of the lineup in my opinion, this year’s release is back to more traditional cask types (1st fill ex-Bourbon, refill hoggies and refill European Oak butts) rather than the past two years which saw Virgin Oak and even ex-Añejo tequila casks.

Colour: Light yellow gold.

Nose: Fruity campfire smoke - apples, pears (toasted), bonfire smoke.

Palate: Creamy, salted BBQ notes - think a salted caramel or vanilla tart with a campfire-toasted crust.

Finish: Long, fruit smoke with a drying spice.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100 (Martin). The classic Laga 12 CS rarely disappoints, and this one continues that trend.

So there you have it, 8 drams from 8 different distilleries. A big thanks to MHDHK for setting aside a tasting kit for us.

Cheers,

Martin.

The Macallan TIME : SPACE Launch [Tasted: #684]

Last week, Martin and I had the pleasure of attending events for The Macallan TIME:SPACE Collection in both Hong Kong and Sydney, as a celebration of the distillery’s 200th anniversary. The events took us on a journey through The Macallan’s storied past, from founder Alexander Reid’s dedication to quality in 1824 to the wartime ingenuity that shaped its legacy.

The Sydney launch event featured tastings of Macallan’s Classic Cut and 18yo expressions, two drams that beautifully reflect the distillery’s artistry. The Classic Cut 2023, bottled at 50.3% ABV, showcased vibrant notes of orchard fruits, elderflower, and citrus with hints of almond biscotti and toasted oak. Meanwhile, the 18yo Sherry Oak has rich layers of dried fruit, spice, and chocolate, a classic Macallan.

At the heart of the celebration was the unveiling of TIME : SPACE, a dual-chambered vessel housing two extraordinary whiskies. The 1940 Vintage, aged an astonishing 84 years, matured in meticulously selected sherry casks. Representing the future, the 2018 Vintage is a youthful 5-year-old whisky, marking the first distillate from Macallan’s state-of-the-art distillery.

Also revealed was TIME : SPACE Mastery, a stunning single malt created from 14 exceptional cask types. This whisky delivers rich layers of dates, pineapple, and coffee, all while retaining Macallan’s signature elegance. Presented in a circular bottle symbolising the cycle of time, the red case, complete with 200 spikes, is a bold celebration of the distillery’s bicentennial milestone.

With only 200 units of TIME : SPACE dual-chambered bottle available globally, the TIME : SPACE Mastery is the more accessible of the two (priced at $2,700 and arriving in Australia in November 2024, with the exact number of bottles produced not disclosed). The TIME : SPACE Collection is more than a celebration of the past—it’s a toast to the future of The Macallan's whisky mastery. 

Having both recently sampled the TIME : SPACE Mastery, here are our thoughts:

The Macallan TIME : SPACE Mastery (43.6% ABV, Speyside, Scotland, A$2,700 / $11,000HKD)

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Colour: Rich honey gold.

Nose (Hendy): A captivating aroma unfolds with a gentle musky scent, with a mix of ripe summer fruits—peaches and apricots—balanced by the sweetness of dates, figs and dried fruits. Subtle notes of chocolate with sweet oak.

Nose (Martin): There's a maturity here that (despite its years) you don't find on the 18yo. Not to the same extent anyway. Deep rich zesty coffee notes follow, rich honey notes, with some underlying milk chocolate and ginger. If you look hard enough, slight hints of tropical stone fruits (peaches mostly) appear.

Palate (Hendy): The palate opens up with soft ginger spices, offering a delicate palate with a touch of gunpowder before giving way to layers of citrus, oranges and honey bring a level of sweetness, with sweet oak at the end.

Palate (Martin): Viscous and mouth-filling, with notes of mature oak, a slightly earthiness (which increases over time), some orange zest, dates, maple syrup, ginger and caramel. It doesn't feel like 43% in the mouth - I'd say closer to 46-48%. Power and finesse here.  

Finish (Hendy): Long and lingering, with a gentle, soft spice and fading into notes of vanilla. It was a good Macallan.

Finish (Martin): Long, quite drying, with hints of oak, some BBQ pineapple, Oranges and residual peach notes.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 

93/100 (Hendy) 

92/100 (Martin)

Martin's final comments: Having also tried this side-by-side with the 2023 18yo Sherry Oak, I can confidently say it stands well above as a much more rich, viscous, sherried dram with significantly more complexity. It also has those hints of tropical notes shining through which you just don't get on the 18yo (Lead Whisky Maker Euan Kennedy, who presented our tasting, said he finds the tropical notes tend to come through at around 20 years of age). That said, whether the increased complexity and richness (and admittedly, very cool bottle design) justifies the price jump over the 18yo is a personal decision everyone will have to make for themselves...

Here’s to the next 200 years of Macallan.


Cheers,
Hendy.

Halcyon Spirits 17yo Single Cask 2007 Caol Ila [Tasted #683]

You may have have seen us cover a few releases from recently-established Scottish-based Independent Bottler Halcyon Spirits over the past 12 or so months. After bursting onto the scene mid-2023 with a 30yo Macallan, followed by a 32yo Auchentoshan, 30yo Clynelish & 27yo Burnside, they've now ventured over to Islay with their first peated release - a 17yo single cask Caol Ila from 2007.

I've been saying for a long time now that (in my opinion) Caol Ila is one of the most versatile Scotch whiskies out there. It can be fantastic young, middle-aged or long-aged, it's great from both Sherry and Bourbon casks, it works well in highballs (try it with lemon peel), cocktails and neat, and it's absolutely magic, magic stuff from the early 1980s.

I remember drinking a lot of 2007, 2008 Caol Ila single casks about 6-7 years ago (at the time around 10yo), and many of them were excellent, so I was excited to try one with a bit more age on it...

Halcyon Spirits "Halcyon Release #5" Caol Ila Aged 17 Years (56% ABV, Single Malt, 17yo, 1 of 273 bottles, Scotland, £150)
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Colour: Amber gold

Nose: Ashy, meaty BBQ at first, but with unmistakeable Caol Ila DNA underneath. Rich smoke, a slightly oak dustiness. After time, a subtle hint of meaty sulphur (in a good way).

Palate: Follows the nose, with some added sweet honey/maple notes, yet still plenty of smoked meat. It's soft, yet carries power and persistence. There's some hoisin sauce and glazed BBQ duck, and subtle, underlying hints of that trademark Caol Ila lemon-y note.

Finish: Long, soft smoke with a slightly sweet BBQ / lemon finish.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). Exactly what I hoped for - balanced, complex, delicious. For the price? Excellent value (especially for those in HK benefiting from the recently-reduced taxes).

Thanks to Halcyon for sending us the sample for this review.

Cheers,

Martin.

Gordon & MacPhail Recollection Series #3: 1984 Convalmore, 1981 North Port & 1991 Rosebank [Tasted #680 - 682]

A look back over our Gordon & MacPhail-tagged posts shows it's been a pretty great past few years when it comes to trying incredibly long-aged, well-matured whiskies here at TimeforWhisky.com. In addition to one-off bottlings in the the 60 Year Old, 70 Year Old and even 80 Year Old age ranges, we've also been introduced to "The Recollection Series" of whiskies - #1 in 2022, #2 in 2023 and now, hot off the press, comes Series #3.

These series feature single malts originating from closed, or long-time silent distilleries, with spirit matured in bespoke asks commissioned by G&M. 

Series #1 and #2 saw us taste some incredible drams like Glen Mhor from 1973 and 1982, 1982 St Magdalene, 1981 Port Ellen & 1981 Lochside, so whatever was in store for Series #3, we knew it would be good.

...and we weren't wrong. With 6 expressions this time around, the series is a little smaller, but no less impressive, featuring:

• Rosebank 1991 – RRP £2,100
• Glenlochy 1979 – RRP £4,000
• Convalmore 1984 – RRP £2,300
• Imperial 1990 – RRP £1,650
• North Port 1981 – RRP £3,850
• Port Ellen 1981 – RRP £10,000

Featuring eye-catching, bold new packaging, G&M calls the whiskies ‘forgotten masterpieces’ and ‘lost works of art’, with the distilleries’ spirit revived using stunning illustrations from Emmy-award winning artist, Bruno Mangyoku. 

Stuart Urquhart, Operations Director at Gordon & MacPhail, said: 

“This year marks our third Recollection Series, which again brings a carefully chosen selection of rare and unique whiskies to enthusiasts worldwide. We’re fortunate enough to have access to a liquid library which is testament to the relationships we’ve nurtured with whisky distillers for almost 130 years.

We’re proud to be able to revive the spirit of these historic distilleries, bringing their stories back into the present day.”  

Gordon & MacPhail "The Recollection Series #3" Rosebank 1991 32yo (51.2% ABV, 32yo, First Fill Bourbon Barrel #2114, Lowland, Scotland, One of 141 bottles, £2,100)
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A distillery called Rosebank was operating as early as 1817. From 1840, under the ownership of the Rankine family, Rosebank prospered, however the distillery eventually closed its doors in 1993. It was reopened under new ownership to great fanfare in 2024. This release is one of the oldest and rarest Rosebank single malts ever released.

Colour: Light sunset gold.

Nose: Light and tropical, with orange, banana and pineapple. As a kid I used to love Golden Circle Tropical Punch fruit juice, and this nose took me straight back to those primary school playground days.  It's a subtle nose though - slowly revealing itself. After time, some lemon slice shows through too.

Palate: Fruity maple syrup? There's a rose-flavoured note, and in the background (subtle) pineapple and banana. 

Finish: Mango and guava! Big time, and long. I recently tried a single cask Springbank (interestingly the same age) and it also had this hugely tropical finish 

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). The highest score I've ever given to a Rosebank? Probably. Feels like it's the best I've tried.

Gordon & MacPhail "The Recollection Series #3" North Port 1981 42yo (50.9% ABV, 42yo, Refill American Hogshead #2072, Highland, Scotland, One of 132 bottles, £3,850)
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Single malts featuring the distillery’s original name, Brechin Distillery, are vanishingly rare. Founded in 1820 near Scotland’s east coast by three brothers, David, John and Alexander Guthrie, the distillery stood half a mile from the River Esk. It remained in family ownership for over a century, renamed North Port Distillery, before new owners closed its doors in 1928. It reopened after the Second World War only to fall silent again in 1983, with the site demolished in 1994. 

Colour: Light amber gold

Nose: Instantly, that well-matured, balanced, incredibly complex nose that shines through on so many of these older G&M releases. There's oak, there's fresh fruit (orchard fruits, peaches, apples) with slightly tropical undertones, nuttiness, fresh pear, and (with a drop of water) some pineapple, apricot and more peach.

Palate: Follows the nose just beautifully, with the oak and fruit in perfect harmony, alongside some gingerbread, mandarin, apricot and graceful oak.

Finish: Very, very long, with a slightly drying oak note and (after a drop of water), some peach.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 94/100 (Martin). Now THIS is whisky. Just a beautiful dram.

Gordon & MacPhail "The Recollection Series #3" Convalmore 1984 39yo (51.1% ABV, 39yo, Refill Sherry Hogshead #1733, Speyside, Scotland, One of 108 bottles, £2,300)
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Opened as the fourth of Dufftown’s famed seven stills in the heart of Speyside in 1894, Convalmore’s waxy, fruity spirit has very rarely been seen as a single malt whisky. Dedicated almost entirely to blended whiskies, production was interrupted in 1909 by a fire. The distillery expanded in 1964 but was mothballed in 1985. The original buildings are still on the site but the production equipment has been removed. 

Colour: Rich mahogany.

Nose: Muted at first, but after some time it turns into a rich and elegant display of mocha, leather, fresh berries, berry compote and toffee.

Palate: Mature oak with noticeable, but not overpowering sherry notes. Flamed orange zest, black forrest cake, sherry-soaked cherries, cigar humidor, milk coffee and to round things out, hints of dried apricot.

Finish: Long, balanced oak with citrus hints.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Martin). My love for Convalmore continues.

For more information on Gordon & MacPhail or the Recollection series, visit www.gordonandmacphail.com.

Many thanks again to G&M who kindly provided the tasting of these three beautiful single malts, and & Weber Shandwick for the arrangement.

Cheers,

Martin.

Woodford Reserve Tasting with Elizabeth McCall, Woodford Reserve Sonoma Triple Finish [Tasted #679]

Last week, we had the pleasure of joining Elizabeth McCall, Woodford Reserve’s Master Distiller, for an evening of whisky insights, flavour exploration, and plenty of banter ahead of Old Fashioned Week.

Elizabeth kicked off the evening with her unexpected path to whisky. With a background in psychology and counselling, she entered Brown-Forman’s sensory department almost by chance. Her story unfolded as one of curiosity and a deepening passion for whisky, taking her from quality control to training teams worldwide in sensory analysis, eventually landing her the prestigious role of Master Distiller. One of the standout moments was Elizabeth describing her journey from psych studies to the whisky lab—a blend of fate, sensory expertise, and a love for exploring the depths of flavour.

Elizabeth McCall’s journey into the world of whisky is as unique and unexpected as it is inspiring. Growing up, she never imagined she would one day become a master distiller. Instead, Elizabeth pursued her passion for psychology, earning a degree in counselling psychology and initially envisioning a career as a therapist. 

Her introduction to the whisky world started while attending her younger brother’s graduation party, she happened to strike up a conversation with a guest who worked at Brown-Forman, Woodford Reserve’s parent company. When Elizabeth shared her interest in sensory sciences and her struggles finding the right career path, he suggested she apply to their sensory department, where her psychology background would be a valuable asset. Elizabeth was intrigued—she didn’t know much about whisky or sensory evaluation at the time, but the opportunity was too exciting to pass up.

Starting in Brown-Forman’s quality control department, Elizabeth found herself drawn to the nuances of whisky production and sensory evaluation. She was immersed in the hands-on, often mysterious world of whisky-making, working alongside industry experts who taught her about distilling, blending, and the complex layers of flavour that make each whisky unique. A pivotal moment came when she learned that whisky is clear when it first comes off the still—a revelation that sparked her curiosity and deepened her respect for the entire maturation process. She dove into every aspect of her role, from learning to interpret tasting data to helping shape new methods for sensory training across Brown-Forman’s global teams.

In 2014, Elizabeth’s career took a major step forward when she attended a class with Chris Morris, then Woodford Reserve’s Master Distiller. Chris invited her to train as a Master Taster, a role that would allow her to further her sensory skills. Her training alongside Morris offered her the chance to develop her own sensory style, and she soon became the expert palate behind Woodford Reserve.

In 2015, she officially took on the role of Master Taster, working across both Woodford Reserve and Old Forester. Then, in 2016, Woodford Reserve claimed her focus entirely, and Elizabeth moved to the Woodford Reserve Distillery full-time, working as a sensory scientist and overseeing quality control at the historic site. By 2018, she had advanced to Assistant Master Distiller, and in 2023, she achieved the role of Master Distiller.

The tasting session took us through Woodford Reserve’s five sources of flavour: fruit and floral, spice, grain, sweet aromatics, and wood. The tasting paired three Woodford Reserve expressions, with selected foods. Elizabeth led us through each pour with insights into how flavour is crafted, and, more importantly, how it can transform through pairing.

We started with the flagship Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select bourbon, an iconic expression built around Woodford’s signature “five sources of flavour”—fruit and floral, spice, grain, sweet aromatics, and wood. To bring out the whisky’s versatile profile, Elizabeth introduced a trio of food pairings: parmesan cheese, dried cranberries, and fresh orange slices.

Next up was the Woodford Reserve Rye; a pre-prohibition style rye that’s as approachable as it is complex. Elizabeth guided us through the tasting, with soft hints of baking spices, honeyed sweetness, and dill on the nose. She described the palate as smooth and slightly sweet, with warming cinnamon and nutmeg spices that are softened by notes of light honey and malted barley. This rye is fitting for those who are new to rye or are wanting to check out the category. Elizabeth highlighted how the finish, with its lingering spice and nutty character, reveals the subtle depth and complexity of Woodford’s rye without overpowering the palate. 

The third and final expression we tasted was the Woodford Reserve Double Oaked, A personal favourite of Elizabeth’s, Double Oaked takes Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select through a second aging phase in a heavily toasted, lightly charred barrel. This added step builds upon the bourbon’s natural complexity, bringing notes of butterscotch, vanilla, marzipan, and dark caramel. To bring out these indulgent flavours, Elizabeth paired the Double Oaked with dark chocolate.

But just as we thought we had completed the tasting, came the highlight for the night, the Woodford Reserver Sonoma Triple Finish

Woodford Reserve Sonoma Triple Finish (45.2% ABV, Versailles, Kentucky, USA, A$269.99)

The Sonoma Triple Finish, a limited Master’s Collection release with a triple-barrel maturation process in Korbel brandy, Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir, and Woodford barrels. With its rich, fruity character and slightly red hue, this whisky was the highlight of the night for me.

Nose: A rich, layered aroma opens with brandy-soaked cherries, sweet cherry liqueur, and the warmth of Christmas cake. Notes of juicy raisins and a subtle hint of baking spices emerge, hinting at the complex interplay between brandy, Pinot Noir, and bourbon barrels.

Palate: Silky and creamy on the tongue, leading with soft vanilla and a medley of warming spices. Clove and nutmeg add depth, mingling with sweet caramel and a burst of tart raspberries. The barrel influence brings a gentle, toasted oak character, balancing sweetness with spice.

Finish: The finish is long and warm, lingering with a satisfying, spiced complexity that hints at cloves and subtle red fruit notes, leaving a memorable, layered impression.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 93/100 (Hendy)

As a fitting end to the evening, and to celebrate Old Fashioned Week, we were served a Dessert Old Fashioned made with maple syrup instead of traditional sugar syrup. It’s a fantastic choice for those looking to experience the Old Fashioned in a new way, with a hint of dessert-like richness.

It was a truly remarkable night with Elizabeth McCall, hearing her stories about balancing life as a master distiller and her reflections on the art of sensory tasting. It’s clear that her journey is just beginning, and with her leadership, Woodford Reserve’s spirit of innovation is in great hands.

Thanks to We Are Different PR and Woodford Reserve for having us on the night

Cheers

Hendy

Old Master Spirits' Tiffon V.45 Petite Champagne Cognac [Tasted #678]

 We've tasted plenty of pretty old spirits on the blog over the years (and some very old ones), but I'll never say no to another. So when Deni from Australia's Old Master Spirits reached out to say there was a care package of samples on the way, I was pretty excited. 

That care package included some beauties I've already covered like their 63yo Peyrot Cognac (which was a steal at $349AUD), but it included one sample I had to keep quiet about for a while. One special sample - in the form of Old Master Spirits' 1945 Tiffon Petite Champagne Cognac.

The oldest release so far by Deni & David from OMS, this nearly 80 year old war time Tiffon was distilled in 1945 and bottled in 2023 after more than 60 years in refill troncais and limousine barrels (in Tiffon's humid cellars) followed by the remainder in Demijohn. 

I'll admit I wasn't overly familiar with Tiffon, but learned that much like the other houses OMS work with, it's a family-owned house (currently run by the fourth generation), founded in 1875 on the banks of the River Charente located in Grande Champagne cru (not far from Courvoisier). The current generation harvests grapes, distils cognac and cares for the still-maturing stock from previous generations - like this release.

Bottled at natural cask strength of 45.2% ABV and made from Ugni Blanc grapes, this release is limited to a minuscule 24 bottles only, available by ballot with results to be announced on 31st October 2024.

So let's try this #malternative shall we?

 

Old Master Spirits' 1945 Tiffany  V.45 Petite Champagne Cognac (45.2% ABV, 77-78yo, Cask Strength, France, One of 24 bottles, $1,299AUD)
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Colour: Burnished copper gold.

Nose: Initially there's a well-balanced mix of mandarin and varnish, but almost instantly comes notes of milk chocolate, herbal jelly & cigar box. Give it some air though, and some beautiful tropical notes start to emerge - lashings of guava, more mandarin and tangerine, and some underripe mango.

Palate: Mandarin again, fruit compote, raisins and fresh apricots, then oranges, more guava, some pineapple, and a slight hint of varnish. With some Cognacs of this age, I find the varnish / furniture polish notes can dominate. Here, they're perfectly balanced with significant amounts of fruit - much of it tropical.

Finish: Long and citrusy, with orange chocolate notes partnering with sweet hints of oak long after the liquid is gone.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 92/100 (Martin). This has amazing freshness for something over 75 years old. It's incredibly balanced, AND delicious (OK that's subjective, but I suspect most will agree).  

Thanks yet again Deni & David for the sample.

Cheers,
Martin.