Akkeshi Kanro & Boshu Single Malt Japanese Whisky (& Usui blended whisky) [Tasted #556 - 558]

After a bit of a pause, we're continuing our look at what Japanese whisky is today, this time with a trio of releases from Akkeshi - namely the "Kanro" & "Boshu" single malts, and "Usui" blended whisky.

These releases (sold and distributed in Hong Kong by AFTrade) are numbers 1, 2 and 3 in what will eventually be a 24 bottle series, known as the "24-season series", representing the 24 divisions of the solar year. 

Construction of the Hokkaido-based Akkeshi began in 2015, with distillation starting from October 2016. With stills by Forsyths (5,000L wash still, 3,600L spirit still) and the use of Mizunara casks, the distillery fuses the best of Scotland and Japan to, in their words, "create a whisky similar to Islay malts" - a departure from the typically lighter, unpeated Japanese whiskies we see today.

Following in the footsteps of some other new distilleries, Akkeshi released a few pre-whisky spirit bottlings to give people a taste of what was to come, under the "Foundations" range. I remember back in the day (when travel was possible) spotting and trying some of these at bars all over Japan - at 200mL and ~¥3,300 each, they were a cheap and accessible way to get an insight into the distillery's future whiskies.

Their first single malt whisky ("Sarorunkamuy") arrived in February 2020, and the series above followed. Let's dive in...

Akkeshi "Kanro" Single Malt Japanese Whisky (55% ABV, NAS, Hokkaido, Japan, no longer available)
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Colour: Yellow golden sunset.

Nose: Slight cereal note, with citrus spice, subtle smoke, and big notes of paprika and sandalwood. Slight salinity.

Palate: There's obvious peat, but a lighter, sweeter, fruitier variety. Hints of strawberry and orange, sea salt air, strawberries & cream, and a little of that cereal from the nose.

Finish: Long, light peat and slight new oak notes.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 90/100.

Akkeshi "Boshu" Single Malt Japanese Whisky (55% ABV, NAS, Hokkaido, Japan, no longer available)
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Colour: Light yellow gold.

Nose: Citrus, lemon peel, blueberry, chocolate strawberries and a slight salinity.

Palate: Soft, subtle floral wooded smoke. Oak, coconut and campfire notes.

Finish: Dark chocolate, slight oak bitterness, citrus peel.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 89/100.

Akkeshi "Usui" Blended Japanese Whisky (48% ABV, NAS, Hokkaido, Japan, no longer available)
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Colour: Golden amber.

Nose: Burnt toast, cereal grains, milk chocolate powder.

Palate: Sweet and floral, with notable sandalwood, orange peel and hints of fresh oak. Sweet and robust, with caramel chews after some time.

Finish: Long, soft oak with a slight pepper spice.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 88/100.

Thanks to AFTrade for the samples of these whiskies. Whilst they're now all sold out, subsequent releases in the series are now available.

Cheers,

Martin.

What is "Japanese Whisky" these days?

If you go back 10 or so years, the term "Japanese whisky" generally meant (to most whisky drinkers) Yamazaki or Hibiki. Maybe for some well-versed drinkers, Miyagikyo, Mars Komagatake or Yoichi. Hardcore enthusiasts were probably aware of whiskies like Hanyu and Karuizawa, but they certainly weren't known outside of a core group of enthusiasts.

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Back then, these whiskies were all relatively accessible and comparatively well-priced (yes even the Karuizawas). More or less every Dan Murphy's stocked Yamazaki 12 (at well under $100AUD/bottle), and almost every decent Japanese bottle shop (and even Japan's airports) stocked age-statement Suntory and Nikka whiskies at incredibly fair prices. You could walk into most (good) Japanese whisky bars and try a selection of Ichiro's Malt Cards Series for less than you'd pay for a dram of Lagavulin 16 today.

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Then in 2015 a man in a hat said the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013 was the best whisky in the world, and everyone lost their mind. Now sure, this was far from the first award ever given to a Japanese whisky (Hibiki 21 for example had won "World's Best Blended Whisky", at the arguably much-more-relevant World Whiskies Awards, several times before 2015), but it did seem to be the catalyst for a barrage of hype, price hikes and scarce availability that continues today.

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Some might say the hatted man simply shone a brighter light on what was already an incredibly high quality spirit (and they'd be right), but however you look at it, the hype started building, and casualties followed. In the coming years, Nikka discontinued their beloved age statement single malts (and later, many of their much-loved blends), Suntory temporarily halted favourites like Hibiki 17 and Hakushu 12, and the prices of pretty much all remaining Suntory and Nikka age statement (and NAS for that matter) whiskies skyrocketed. 

...and that's not even mentioning whisky from closed Japanese distilleries (to see how things are going there, just check out these auction prices of a "full deck" of Ichiro's Malt Cards Series from 2015, 2019 and 2020 respectively).

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After a few years came the the wave of what many have termed "fake Japanese Whiskies" - those which took advantage of loose legislation in Japan which meant that producers could (and still can, for now) bottle whisky made from 100% imported spirit such as Scotch or Canadian whisky, and sell it as "Japanese Whisky" domestically and around the world. 

Again, the use of non-Japanese distilled spirit isn't a new thing. Nikka for example had been thought to be using Ben Nevis (which they own) in their hugely popular "Nikka from the Barrel", for years, but the rise in Japanese whisky popularity in the past 5 years has seen a big increase in other overpriced, opaque/ambiguous bottlings calling themselves "Japanese", often with samurai or other imagery, with absolutely no guarantee as to where the spirit originated. 

(For the record, I have no problem with the practice of imported spirit being bottled and sold by Japanese companies, and companies like Nikka who are willingly being transparent about the issue should be applauded. My issue is with those being deliberately deceptive, trying to "fool" their customers into thinking the whisky was distilled in Japan when it wasn't.)

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More recently though, we've seen a ray of hope emerge - "proper" Japanese whisky from new or newly-expanded distilleries/brands, producing unique, Japanese-distilled spirit, and in the last few years (and especially the last 12 months), we've seen the first whisky releases from many of these start to emerge.

With thanks to our friends at AFTrade Hong Kong, we're going to feature a few of these whiskies over the coming week, with detailed tasting notes and some background into each distillery. Specifically, we'll be trying:

• Kanosuke Single Malt 2021 First Edition (link to tasting post)
• Sakurao Single Malt 1st Release (link to tasting post)
• Mars Tsuniki Peated (link to tasting post)
• Akkeshi Single Malt: "Boshu", "Kanro" and "Usui" (link to tasting post); and
• Mars Komagatake x Chichibu "Malt Duo" (not as new as some of the others, but a fascinating blended malt considering the practice of sharing barrels and blending malts is far from common in Japan) (link to tasting post)

(Links to the articles will be added as they're posted)

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We hope these posts give you some insight into these new, exciting Japanese distilleries and a little taste of things to come from Japanese whisky in the future. If you have any thoughts of your own on these whiskies (or the Japanese whisky scene in general) please leave them in the comments below!

Kanpai,

Martin.

dekantā - delivering Japanese whisky worldwide (Tasted #233: Monde Royal Crystal Whisky)

There's no doubt that Japanese whisky has absolutely taken the world by storm over the past 18 months (and yes, we largely have Mr Murray to "thank" for it). The craze that initially began with "silent still" whiskies like Karuizawa and Hanyu has since spread to pretty much any and all Japanese whisky (and even some Scotch whiskies) - including whiskies that barely a year or two ago could be easily found in almost any bottle shop.

Having taken 5 trips to Japan over the past 12 months, even in that time we've seen a huge shift - with many bottles simply no longer available, and those that are selling for huge price increases.

Yep, there's no denying it - the world is going crazy for Japanese whisky, and looks set to continue doing so for some time...

...which is where dekantā comes in. dekantā is an online store selling Japanese whisky, shipped world-wide. Their founders have been in business since 1985, but have only recently began focusing on their online presence. Their range is impressive (especially in this day and age), and whilst their prices are not what you'd call "cheap", they do have a number of bottles that are almost impossible to find anywhere, apart from auctions (where bottle provenance, authenticity and value can all be huge unknowns).

From "everyday" Japanese whiskies like Hakushu 12 and Mars Iwai Tradition, to rarities such as Yamazaki 25 year old, Mars Maltage 25 + 3, Ichiro's Malt Colour Joker and plenty of Karuizawas, their range is about the most impressive we've seen (there's even a Yamazaki 35 year old, which we've never even seen in person). Whiskies from lesser known Japanese whisky producers also get a look-in, including:

• Sasa-no-kawa Shuzo
• Miyazaki Honten
• Sasanogawa
• Toyo; and
• Wakatsuru

Whilst clearly focusing on Japanese whisky, they also stock some Scottish whiskies (mostly independent bottlings), and even Amrut from India (whom we visited earlier this year).

Based in Japan, dekantā ship world-wide and list estimated shipping times on their website - generally no more than 10 working days, and often as short as 3 working days. To try out their service (and to prove that not everything they sell is an ultra-rare collectible),  dekantā recently sent us a bottle of Monde Royal Crystal Whisky - a 10 year old blend from Japan's "third" big whisky company, Mondeshuzo, based West of Tokyo in the Yamanashi prefecture. It retails on their site for $45USD.

Two things impressed me about the delivery - firstly the speed, which saw the bottle arrive in Hong Kong from Japan in 2 days, arriving to my office early in the morning, via EMS who I've found to be extremely reliable and speedy with deliveries from Japan. The second was the packaging - a beautifully hand-wrapped crêpe paper package with a bow, paper cranes, and a discount voucher for a future order. A package befitting of some of the rarer whiskies on their site, for sure, but it was nice to see that they went to this much detail for a $45USD whisky.

As you can see above, the bottle is certainly unique (and wouldn't be out of place in Ron Burgundy's liquor cabinet), but how does it taste?


Monde Royal Crystal Whisky (40% ABV, 10yo, blend, Yamashi Prefecture, Japan, $45USD)

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Colour: Orange gold

Nose: Grain notes remind you its a blend, but then you get this big fruity hit - passionfruit, strawberries, papaya, even some mango. Unexpected, to be honest.

Palate: Thin and grainy, there's a hint of maltiness and some apple notes, and a slightly smoky / rubbery note. Not unpleasant, but it doesn't live up to the nose.

Finish: Medium in length, with a hint of smoke and a hint of grainy earthiness.

Rating (on my very non-scientific scale): 84/100.  An interesting bottle, with quite a decent nose, but with a palate and finish that don't back it up. Decent, but unlikely to excite hardcore single malt drinkers.

TimeforWhisky.com would like to say a big thanks to dekantā and Leah Alexander PR who provided this bottle for review, and for allowing us to try out their service.

Cheers,
Martin.

This week in whisk(e)y #22 - New Japanese Whisky, Bunnahabhain's new "boat whisky", Fred Noe in Australia, Tiki whiskey cocktails, Whisky Mooncakes and more!

As you might know if you read this blog regularly, we get a fair few interesting press releases and news articles here at TimeforWhisky, and usually try to feature them with our own spin, experiences or comments. Sometimes though, they come thick and fast, and we just don't have time to do them all justice.

So we've decided to take a leaf out of some other excellent whisky blogs, and feature a "PR roundup" every now and then - basically a wrap-up of relevant press releases we've received in the previous week or so (including other interesting whisk(e)y news Steph, Hendy & or I think you might enjoy). So on with it then...

New Japanese whisky - 10 year old Single Malt Fujikai from Monde Shuzo Distillery
All the way from French distributor Les Whiskies du Monde (@whiskiesdumonde) comes news of a "new" Japanese Single Malt. We say "new" because it's not like this whisky was created yesterday (it is 10 years old after all), but is from a distillery that previously very few would have heard of - Monde Shuzo Distillery, at the foot of Mount Fuji.

Fujikai is considered a "Ji-Whisky" or "craft whisky", which given the current popularity of Japanese whisky, we'll be very surprised if we don't hear a lot more of in the coming years (we've already heard of another Japanese craft whisky distillery in the last month, though unlike that one, Monde Shuzo has been distilling since 1952).

We'll be receiving a sample in the next few weeks, but until then, here are a few more details:

• Bottled at 43% ABV
• Matured for years in ex-Bourbon barrels
• Limited to 8808 bottles (bottles are 500mL)
• Available for £49.45 from Master of Malt

Bunnahabhain announces Hogshead 733 - whisky finished in casks made from a former fishing boat
We're certainly seeing some interesting takes on whisky maturation of late. From Ardbeg (and more recently Suntory) ageing whisky in space, to whiskies aged with music, to Jefferson's Bourbon aged at sea - these whiskies add a different element to the category, and bring a fresh, interesting new take.

Adding to the mix now is Bunnahabhain (aka "Bunna") who have just announced "Hogshead 733", a whisky to be finished in casks made from a fishing boat currently embarking on a 733 mile journey.

Such an experiment could really only be undertaken by an Islay distillery, and we think it's quite fitting that Bunnahabhain, with their typically unpeated style (allowing the influence of the sea-soaked cask to shine through, we hope), be the ones to do it. We're very interested to try the resulting whisky, whenever it becomes available.

Quoting the press release:

"Bunnahabhain Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky announces Hogshead 733 – a collaboration with contemporary artists Maxime Berthou and Mark Požlep to produce the first ever whisky finished in casks made from a former fishing boat.

The two men have embarked on an epic 733 mile sailing quest which will see them battle the high seas from Trebeurden in Brittany, France, all the way to Bunnahabhain Distillery in Islay. Inspired by adventure, craftsmanship and love of whisky, Maxime and Mark have spent the last two years painstakingly restoring a wooden, Brittany fishing vessel from 1941 back to its former glory.    

Bunnahabhain is steeped in seafaring history, with the whisky’s iconic Helmsman and his maritime stories having inspired the brand for generations.

Set to arrive in Islay at the end of September, the journey will not stop there. Soaked with adventures and the salty sea water, the oak boat will be dismantled and carefully crafted into handmade whisky casks. The casks will be filled with Bunnahabhain and the precious spirit will then be finished in the casks before being bottled and sold.

Maxime Berthou said: "The inspiration for this project stems from the human longing for new discoveries and nostalgia for traditional, handmade craftsmanship, something we've moved away from in today's modern society.

“For Mark and me, this is a journey about transformation, adventure, passion, labour and whisky. It has taken us two years to get to this stage and we are excited to finally be on our way to Bunnahabhain."

Follow Mark and Maxime’s journey on Bunnahabhain’s Twitter (@bunnahabhain) and Facebook (www.facebook.com/Bunnahabhain).”

The Singleton Discovery Series - A World Class Music Program
Music and whisky has always been a great match, and MHDHK have embraced hat with a series of 3 upcoming concerns in Hong Kong.

Quoting the press release:

"The Singleton Single Malt Whisky is proud to announce the launch of The Singleton Discovery Series, a program of world class live music, showcasing some of the world’s most extraordinary artists. Curated and produced in conjunction with House of Mercury, the Discovery Series will shine a spotlight on musical greatness - acclaimed, and in the making. Hosted in the uniquely intimate setting of OVOLO Southside’s G.I.G. space (update: Now Loft 22 in California Tower, LKF), the inaugural autumn program showcases an eclectic cross section of Grammy-nominated neo soul, alternative rock, electronic indie and Mississippi blues, courtesy of award-winning international talent from across the globe.

“The program we have curated is unlike any we have seen in Hong Kong,” said Jake Gould, Director House of Mercury. “We are committed to presenting true talent. This is not about acts at the top of Spotify playlists. It’s a showcase of artists truly worthy of discovery, whether you are familiar with their work, or not.”

“Our whisky is a true pleasure to discover,” said Drew Mills, Marketing Director of The Singleton in Hong Kong. ”By presenting this unique music program, we are offering a marvelous opportunity for Hong Kong to savour our world class single malt whisky, alongside truly incredible music. Each show in the series is set to be an extraordinary holistic evening of discovery. 

• 23 September 2015 – Hiatus Kaiyote - hiatuskaiyote.ticketflap.com

• 24 October 2015 – Harts - harts.ticketflap.com

• 14 November 2015 – Mr. Sipp  “The Mississippi Blues Child” - mrsipp.ticketflap.com

Jim Beam Gives Back to Fans by Supporting Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia
Fans of Bourbon and Jim Beam may be interested to know that Fred Noe is visiting Australian shores very soon. While there are a bunch of media and trade events planned (some of which we'll be covering for the site), there's one way for Western Sydney Bourbon fans to meet the 7th Generation Jim Beam Master Distiller, this coming Saturday 5th September, and support a worthy charity at the same time:

"Jim Beam Bourbon is making history by bringing all three of these passions together in Penrith this September with its very own Big Aussie Barbie. Jim Beam’s seventh generation Master Distiller, Fred Noe, known for crafting the world’s number one bourbon, is coming to Australia and will cook up a mean barbecue in support of the Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia (PCFA) at Penrith Panthers’ Pepper Stadium on Saturday, 5 September.

Ben Andrews, Marketing Manager at Jim Beam says the company is excited to be partnering with PCFA to raise awareness of prostate cancer in Australia. “Our intention by supporting PCFA is to help take the Big Aussie Barbie initiative to new levels this year and encourage more men and women to be aware of the effects and incidence of prostate cancer. As well as driving awareness through our on-pack promotion, we will be supporting all PCFA events nationally and hosting our own Big Aussie Barbie,” said Andrews.

PCFA’s Big Aussie Barbie campaign encourages Australians to turn their everyday barbecues into fundraising events in support of the organisation’s work. In addition to supporting the PCFA events and hosting its own Barbie, through the GIVE BACK WITH JIM BEAM BLACK initiative, Jim Beam will donate one dollar for every PCFA co-branded Jim Beam Black 700ml bottle and 10-pack sold throughout Australia, aiming to contribute $125,000 to the cause.

Fred Noe is looking forward to meeting some Penrith locals after the Panthers game, and to spread awareness. “What better way to bring people together for a good cause than by serving Kentucky Straight Bourbon and Kentucky-style barbecue after a rugby match,” said Noe. “If this Big Aussie Barbie in Penrith helps men talk about prostate cancer, then I’m all for it. I’m looking forward to enjoying a cold Jim Beam with the Penrith community and raising some money for a great cause.”

Australia and the United States are the two biggest bourbon markets in the world and them coming together over a barbie to raise money for Prostate Cancer is an initiative worth celebrating. In a recent consumer study, more than two thirds of Jim Beam Black drinkers believe “helping others is an important part of who I am” so Jim Beam found it to be a natural partnership.

Fred and the Jim Beam team will be at the Pepper Stadium, Western Bar from 4.30pm to 6.30pm following the Penrith Panthers’ final home game on Saturday, 5 September. Then, after a few snags, they will move on to Panthers Leagues Club where the party will continue with drinks specials on Jim Beam Black, and Fred will host a Jim Beam Raffle with all proceeds going to PCFA.

For more information about Jim Beam, visit www.jimbeam.com.au.”

Glenfiddich, Balvenie, Dalmore and Bruichladdich pop-up bar at RBHK
Restaurant and Bar Show HK (with whom we're Media Partners) is coming up, and to whet your whisky thirst, Telford have announced a pop-up whisky bar with a series of master-classes and tastings.

Hall 5E, EE01: Daily @ 3:30pm-4:15pm (standup tasting)

• 8 September:    Glenfiddich – David Ding, Portfolio manager - China

• 9 September:    BRUICHLADDICH – Murray Campbell, Brand Ambassador – Asia Pacific

• 10 September:  The Dalmore – Kenny Wang, Sales Director – Greater China

Hall 5E, Artisanal Drinks Live: 9 Sep @ 4:00pm-4:40pm (sit down tasting)

• 9 September:    The Balvenie – David Ding, Portfolio manager - China

Telford will also have daily Jack Daniels cocktails on offer, so drop by on any day and say hi.



Honi Honi launch new menu, with Tiki whiskey cocktails
Honi Honi, Hong Kong's most famous Tiki bar might serve primarily rum-based drinks (it is a Tiki bar, after all), but who's to say you can't make a Tiki cocktail with whiskey?

As part of their new 50-strong 2015 drinks menu, Honi Honi have created 3 whiskey cocktails perfectly befitting the island vibe (and catering to both summer and winter tastes):

• Tokerao is a mix of Michter's Rye Whiskey, Green Chartreuse, Cartron Caramel Liqueur, Cartron Poire Williams Liqueur, Pear Pureé, Apple Juice, Lemon Juice and Star Anise.
• Spiced Bourbon Punch mixes Michter's Bourbon, Cartron Caramel Liqueur, Milk, Vanilla Syrup, Apple Juice, Gingerbread Syrup and Cinnamon (perhaps one for the cooler months); and
• Bounty Hunder sees Michter's Bourbon mixed with Baileys, Coconut Milk, Aztec Chocolate Bitters and Coconut Syrup.

Whisky Mooncakes from Intercontinental Grand Stanford, Hong Kong
Mid-Autum Festival is almost upon us, and that means...Mooncake time (for those unfamiliar with these bakery items, see here).

Intercontinental Grand Stanford (home to the excellent Tiffany's New York Bar, one of the city's better whisky bars) have announced their 2015 Mooncakes, and they include these 3 mouth-watering options:

• Caol Ila 12 year old Hazelnut and Almond Truffle
• Benromach 10 year old Double Chocolate
• Glenfarclas 105 Butter Cookie Praline

See link for more details and order forms: http://www.hongkong.intercontinental.com/en/promotions-and-offers/mooncake-2015/


There's a 20% discount if you order by today, which we're going to go and do now!


Thats all for this week. Until next time...

Cheers, 
Martin.